(B1) MR_fanny

you guys all sound like that stupid creature guy thingy from starwars...lol as stated straight pipes are illegal. i think it works out cheaper if you get yourself a jap bolt on one and remember to put money aside for a good hi-flow cat.

haha...gold!!

yeah its only really down low in first gear and sometime second that i get the rattle. once its off its sweet as. i hope its what you say it is..lol. spent enough $$ already on it..ha

i did this mod before i got that turbotech or whatever bleed valve. didnt like the idea of grounding it all the time as it might burn out the solenoid so i hooked it up to a switch in the cabin. was a good cheap mod IMO

how bad is your oil leak? i got my gasket changed but still have a leak on the last bolt closest to cabin. leaks all the way down the engine...driving me nuts. bolts are tight. how do i stop the leak? i remember reading about grease burning to carbon to seal it.

pics would be nice

i probs would have gone JB if he were in melb. i ended up getting an exedy cushion button with lightened flywheel 3 weeks ago. the drive home from the shop was interesting. would bite like a mofo. bunny hopped it 90% of the time i took off. it seems to have bedded itself in now and drives almost like my old standard clutch just a tad heavier. it has developed this slight rattle down low in the rev range in 1st and sometimes 2nd for a sec. i think it could be the lightened flywheel or my dodgy short shifter. anyone else got this problem. so are you going with the JB clutch? and which brand has the dud clutch?? not exedy i hope...ha.

it makes more sense if you read it backwards with your jocks pulled down. gotta watch out for them's gypsies!!

i used the fast software thats around to get the part numbers. the guy at nissan said the part numbers in australia are different so he had to re find them for me and those numbers are what i got on the invoice. would be good to clear up... maybe ive got the wrong one..ha. fingers crossed.

same as above. series 1.5 and 2 has a pink sticker on thier air flow meter too. i have a series 1.5

C&B rates the organic heavy duty at 200-220kw and the buttons at 240-250kws from memory

timing belt (130285L327) was $65.94 + gst trade. as for going genuine for everything, if i had to do it again id go and get the idler and tensioner bearings from a bearing shop at half the price if not more. genuine bearings turned out to be nsk anyways.

cam seals (1304216V00) are $11.97 each trade +gst and crankshaft seal (1351010Y10) is $19.30 +gst trade. not much really so why not do it while everythings appart. waterpump trade is $117.13 +gst. i just walked into nissan, had a good chat with the parts guy, turns out he's into skylines. kindly asked for trade price and he hooked me up with everything. top bloke. still damn expensive though...ha. as for rocker gasket....replace if needed.

stocker guage does not read in psi if your not already aware of that. its normal for it to go just below half way on full standard boost.

it all depends on your application. if you've got big power or planing for big power then get the N1 water pump and aftermarket timing belt. as for me im after moderate power so i just stuck with standard waterpump and timing belt. i decided to go genuine idler and tensioner bearings which was a mistake as they are definitly nsk bearings which you can get for half the price if not cheaper. was a good thing i changed them as one of the old bearings looked abit rough after inspection. got my cam seals and oil seal changed too aswell as my rocker gaskets, exhaust manifold bolts gaskets and turbo gaskets which all needed fixing. turned out to be an expensive service...ha. then found out that my clutch was on its way out...ha. all in one hit hey.

is that real? good effort if it is..ha

yeah...just call the cops if they refuse to exchange details. in hearing that im sure they would gladly give details.

dont wanna sound rude but whats the point in posting this up if your not intending to sell it directly?

abit obvious but have you checked to see if they pluged it back in?

SK is GOD!!.......of suspension...lol great review!

with mine, the workshop re-connected it so that the original t-piece pipe goes into the outlet(horizontal one) of the bleed valve(same as above) and the other connector which i assume is the intake(vertical one in line with the screw) is pluged to nothing. does this sound right? i dont see how it could work as from my understanding the air passes through the bottom of the bleed valve, gets controled by the bearing and spring and exits out the side into the actuator. they said its set to 11psi. car makes 199.6kw first ever dyno tune in shoot out mode with adjustable exhaust cam pulley, r34 smic full exhaust, arc induction box and exedy flywheel. seems abit too high for me to believe. stock guage reads 7 or just below that. how can i tell if im running free boost? i think its time for me to get a boost guage..ha. what do you guys think of my bleed valve setup?

press the closed air circulation sbutton thats next to the demister. that'll stop air circulating from the engine bay. if you dont wanna do that then turn your temp down to 18, that should close the vent when its off.

so what was the problem again?

id personally just go for the one that fits. easy in easy out for me.

best ad ever!! that second old school ferrari rocks!!