sly32

ok my offset calculations are: Rears +12.5 and Fronts +20 these are approx and not exactly right as i didnt have the most trust worthy measuring device. so its there abouts. thanks

I will find out how to measure offset and will post up results if i can do it.

There you go guys confirmed. like i said genuine. thanks

yeah thats crazy, such a nice turbo but nothing to support it, you will need ecu and injectors then a tune and it will be fine, the way your running it, i cant see it lasting long, all it needs is the split second at higher revs for it to completly fail, will cost you alot more in the end, ive just put a rb25 in my r32, i hate this R&R thing, it sucks, but im going to get a boost cut defender installed (apparently i can change volatage so i wont hit r&r), im only going to boost my car up to 13-14psi with this but i will still be putting it on the dyno just to be sure,

I just put the Wheel on the bathroom scales and was 8kg or just under. not sure what they are meant to be but feel light for the size. cheers

here is the back. These rims have been resprayed from bronze so they dont have the sticker with offset. if you need any more info feel free. thanks dont think all the models came out with forged written on front. if anyone knows please help. they are very light rims so i am positive they are genuine. thanks

i will get the tyres put onto them and take some photos of it.

Hey guys, Got these Genuine Volk TE37's 17" by 9.5" rears and 9" front not sure on offset but they stick out of the guard of a R32 gtst. They come with Tyres with around 75% - 80% front tyres are Yokohama Advan sports and rears are federal. Located in Brisbane VERY GOOD COND! $2200ono 0423 849 355 thanks mike [ attachment=208049:P2220102.JPG]

I have 2 RB26DETT airflow meters & HKS airpod kit for sale, Exellent condition. Wanting $300. Im in Brisbane PM Me or msg 0422 756 756 Cheers Marcus

man i got 4 defi guages and a defi control box, it cost me $1200 brand new all up, should be about 250-300 a gauge and then 150 for control unit,, (bf series) the defi's are spot on, read up about them and theres actually a fair bit u can do with them, also they look sick o also, try perfectrun.com.au, they have good prices and takes about 3 days from japan to get to u,

i just got a 5 puk button from sliding performance, doesnt feel do heavy in the pedal, but holy crap its on or off atm, ive only driven the car once, next time it drives is on saturday for a wheel allignment then im gonna really give it a few kicks and see how it goes, but apparently its rated to 300kw, so it should be alright, if u want to spend up to $1000, i suggest you go a jim berry clutch, think that will be my next clutch unless i go a twin,

putting stock manifold on i believe? it looked like a proper mani but guess not hey, the tuner still charged him the 600, so im guessing it was on there for the full time, you could hear the leak very easy when bonnet was open, also from what i was told (which gfunk can comfirm) he said i could only tune it for 11psi, and not 16psi because of it pinging, you have a exhaust leak aswell, so yeah this does mean a bad tuner, specially when he blames the cams for the problems? dodgey backyard mechanics, can hardly blame that for problems, no dogey stuff goes on here so, when the car gets the manifold put on, and enough money saved for another tune, i think hes taking it to matt at pits to tune., i guess then we will find out what the program is like (Gfunk is the one that spoke to the tuner on the phone, my other mate is the 1 that owns the car, reason gfunk spoke to the tuner was because our other mate doesnt know to much about cars,)

well, i mean it still can be a bad tuner cant it? why would any tuner tune a car that isnt up to scratch for tuning, and then also, why would he blame the cams? it doesnt make sense, you would think a tuner that was switch on would say, nar couldnt tune it because of this exhaust leak blah blah blah, also the fact that a disco potato made 310hp (230kw) on 11psi is sus, i dont think its even possible, so then again, its not down to poor fitment of parts,

yeah i think if had just of said its got a boost control problem, then it would have been better than blaming cams, to me thats hiding something, although he didnt mention anything about a boost control problem, he just mentioned a pinging problem with higher boost? so then again thats another reason, plus i dont understand, before we added everything etc... it would hit high boost at the normal spot and hold, also if you look at the end of that dyno sheet, once it gets to the right boost, it holds perfect, wouldnt this be a bit more uneven specially because at a higher boost it would leak more from pressure so it would be harder to control?

um cant fully remember, from memory it was a malasappi (if thats correct), but dont fully remember, i just dont know why the car would run fine before and not now, it pops a bit at idle now to, and the power figure for that boost just sounds completely wrong, i will try and find out from my mate in the next day or so, JV

i can see where your coming from, but i still stand by what i think, i guess the car isnt going to get driven much until it gets taken to another tuner, i guess if it comes back witht he same results then im in the wrong. either way i will post up what the end result is after it gets tuned again, just some things dont line up which makes me worried,

boost controller is a profec b, its fine, the car ran way better than what it did with the tune, we have put a brand new fuel pump in there, fuel pressure reg is a after market 1, they didnt give us a print out of the afr, if it had bad voltage to fuel pump then why would they blame cams for the problems? also, i have never seen a t28 (350hp turb) make 310hp on a 11psi boost, specially when the car is almost stock, we will take it to another tuner that we trust as we have used before and see what he says,

Hey guys, My mate got his car tuned at the start of the week, is a sr20 180sx, we installed poncams into it with a greddy forward facing plenum and 550cc injector with power fc (non afm model) d-jetro? so he got the car back and they said they made 300hp on 11psi boost, he said but i wanted to run 16psi and told you to tune it for that, they then said that they couldnt tune it because it was pinging at higher boost, so my other mate called then and asked why was it pinging? they said they didnt know, my mate was then like well the car is on a dyno, you have it hooked up so you can find where problems are but the fuel system is brand new and can easy support this power, they then said maybe it was because of the adjustable cam gears, because you need to dial them in even though we have set both sides on 0 degrees, (turbo is only a T28 Disco potato) so today i saw the dyno sheet, and holy crap. ive never seen a dyno sheet like it, i told him to take it somewhere else because i dont know what they have done, they also tuned it and told him his turbo manifold gasket is leaking bad, anyways ive uploaded dyno sheets, have a look, i know people hate it when tuners are badged, but this doesnt seem right 1 bit,. obviously let me knw if this is right but pretty sure lines are ment to be curved and full boost by 3500,

is it worth it? probably not, but its not that harder job (bout 5 mins) it cant be done, just swap it over, straight fit, apparently boost comes on faster using the rb20 one, or it hits peak faster because it leaks less or something, i dno, to a test and see where your revs are at at what boost, swap them over and try again, see which 1 is better, no harm in trying,

Price drop $14000, need this gone guys, running out of money in a big way, can offer cheaper with different things removed or what ever, Cheers

wish i saw this 1 before i saw the first post, i got the 855 of the first post, and the belt is a bit to loose and squeals damn it lol, i will end up buying another new belt soon as this will just drive me crazy, Cheers

what i did, is drill a hole into the hot pipe of the intercooler and get a brass nipple and screw that into it, and used metal putty around it just to be sure,

hey man, from what i can tell it goes from the top welsh plug at the back of the engine, and down to the sump (un sure where) it goes under the plenum side so im guessing anywhere really aslong as its higher than all the oil so it works well, got a pic, i took it from the oil control thread on this forum, may be some more pictures? would be worth a look?

ok guys, so i think i have fixed it, i reset the ecu and put theidle screw back in to retry it again, cold start was idling at 1100 and then it went down to about 900 once a bit warm, as soon as the aac kicked in the car nearly stalled so i held the revs up so i could get this screw out a bit, got it out to the same place as before (right out) and the car was idling at about 750. so non of that fixed it, so what i did is have my brother watch the revs and i screw out the stopper screw so it held the tb open a bit to bring the revs up, it took a few goes to get because if you went that 1/4 turn to far vct will come on and jump the revs up, so ive managed to adjust the idle up to 950 without vct coming on, so im going to wait for it to cool and then start it up again and see how it goes, i probablyt should change the spark plugs to as its still got the spark plugs from japan lol, o well cheers for all the replies JV

nar, everything is stock, i mean sometimes with how it idles now it will catch, but sometimes it just doesnt so i like it higher idle, o well will see if i can figure something out today,