sly32

fair enough, i cant remember where i read it but they were just saying about the fuel, and how its better then detonation, but yeah i never really thought about anything else which comes along with this type of limiter, so to add to this, can i ask a list of limiters or a limiter which would be the safest? or there isnt really one in the long run? Cheers EDIT: this is where i read it, This is Bee*R’s popular two-stage ignition cutting rev-limiter. It is used to prevent damage arising from over-revving your engine. Part of the reason for its popularity is the large flames and loud bangs it produces from the exhaust when active! The way in which it works differs from the factory rev limiter in that it is an ignition cut, as opposed to a fuel cut. The reason for this is because if an engine (particularly turbocharged) regularly hits a fuel-cut rev limit (such as in high performance driving, or particularly drifting) engine damage can arise due to the lean condition produced when the original ECU shuts off the fuel pump. The BEE*R rev-limiter allows fuel to pass into the engine still, limiting engine speed by disabling the ignition signal. The Bee*R rev limiter is fully adjustable in 500rpm increments, for safety reasons allowing only a lower rev-limit to be configured than standard. If you have spent a lot of money tuning your engine, or are running at high RPM’s for extended periods of time, it could be recommended to run a lower rev-limit to prolong engine life. Both Formula 1 and JGTC cars use ignition cutting rev limiters, so it is a fully race proven concept. The Bee*R can also be used as a “two stage rev limiter”, as an aid for launching your car. The Bee*R is configurable for two different rev-limits. A lower rev limit can be activated by a switch, the handbrake switch often being used. This configurable lower limit, can be set to the optimum RPM to launch your particular car from in 500rpm increments. When the handbrake is released, the usual rev limit comes into action, allowing quick launches, and full performance down the strip. The Bee*R rev-limiter has another final neat feature. The gain control knob allows you to adjust the frequency of the ignition cut. This in turn changes the frequency and sound of the flames and bangs from your exhaust! Available for use with all rotary, 4 and 6 cylinder engines.

they say its safer because its still putting fuel into the cylinder so its not like detonation, its also why it goes bang because of the fuel getting ignited, i love these things

im selling a set of these also but need new tread.

if its internal and as the car gets warm it goes away it would lead me to believe its to do with the cams and oil, i dont think its internals though, internals normally make a bigger sound, as for mentioned about about the water pump and alternator etc... i think these are on the right line, one way to check, take the belt of alternator and start the car, if there is no sound, its either you water pump or alternator, try those different things

hahaha yeah i had a look at the ps, damn there is a sensor haha, i understand how it all works now, just theres shitloads of things for hicas so i thought it may of been a hicas thing, Cheers for the info

Hey, Well as im studing at the end of this month i have quit my job, so one of my cars has to go, so for sale is 1 of my R32's, Fresh respray a custom gun metal grey, with a silver flake, and a fine multi colour pearl. RB20DET, 140,000kms Hi-Flowed Turbo, Front mount intercooler, Full Kit, Aftermarket ECU (wolf 3D V4) Cusco Coilovers Full exhaust sytem, 17" Rims, depending on price can change rims with other rims we have at home, No wing, Turbo smart Boost controller, GTR bonnet (lightwieght), GTR Grill, Metal Air intake pipe, Aftermarket FPR, Comes with spare paint from respray, This car goes very well, havnt been drifted as we have other cars we use instead, havnt driven this car to much as we have been working alot on it with the respray and the fact i own another skyline which i like more, Car is currently unregistered due to paint job etc.... no point wasting money on it, But we will sell it with a roadworthy and 6months rego, Can take you for a drive down the road if anyone is interested in the car, Can also do compression test etc...., This car could be taken out to the track with no further mods needed, Unsure on power figure with the setup at the moment, $14,500 PM me or call on 0408715983 JV

by any chance have u plug up 1 of the holes on the solinoid? theres 3 holes, 1 to actuator, the other to intercooler, and the 3rd 1 which is external gate, if u have blocked up 1 of the holes, that will stop you from boosting over 10psi, your ment to leave it open,

Bump $800

well i got some1 on this site to make me the speedo sender, think it was the guy who wrote the diy, i havnt driven the car yet, so not sure how long it will alst, but yes he made a different slot on the other side (rotate 180deg) i asked him what that was about and he said the gear will get chewed if you dont do that, so yeah hopefully it should last, i hope so, cost me $250, he got all new stuff from nissan though so i guess that would be right, i would love to transfer the r33 looms into the r32 and somehow use the eletric sender? meh wat a mish, with the speed sensor though, what i dont see, say you take out hicas, so your only running powersteering through the rack etc... (remove all hicas lines and everything), so pretty much how could a signal change the steering? i dont think it would change anything as the steering for the front wheels are a manual thing, theres no way that a eletric signal could change how much the engine is turning the power steering? so im guessing for the hicas set up then sure it can affect it? any more info on this would be good? o if your gonna say im wrong, then i want a good reason and details, so i can understand fully

o ok, well if any1 else has info that would be good to, it looks like the fpr will fit, but i dont wanna screw around with fuel pressure if they are different, Cheers JV

hey guys, so first off, can i use a rb20det fpr on a rb25det engine, reason is, i just broke the air nipple off the rb25 one on a bit of intercooler piping while i was putting the plenum back on, so if i could use a rb20 one that would be good, i have 4 spares or something lol, second, ive put a rb25 gearbox into my car aswell (r32), ive made a speedo drive, hooked up the reverse sensors (hoping the right way, will soon find out), and then there is 1 more plug which i believe is the neutral sensor, so should i bother extending the plug so it can reach the loom? what does the neutral sensor do? and if i was do hook it up the wrong way how would i know? any info on that would be great, Cheers JV

what do you mean by the struts? if they come standard with the car then yes i have.

Hey guys. wrecking this 180sx. Located in Brisbane. parts and prices will be listed. if its not on the list just pm me. thanks Turbo Kit: includes Garrett 2540, thickwalled custom manifold(will never crack), External Gate, Screamer pipe, braided lines, Dump front pipe, hotpipe(if swapped with original hot pipe. $1900ono Genuine Volk Te37's Silver with chrome lip. just been resprayed good tread. $2000 ono 5 stud off my other car. 9" front 9.5" rear! good offset Ecu: Microtec lx8 - $450 inc loom Microtec hand controller - SOLD JIC fully adjustable coilovers - $800 Front mount kit- $250 Adj castor rods - $130 Crome 18in rims(as pictured) - $400 Diff - $150 Clutch Master - $80 Clutch Slave -$25 Reo bar - $130 Engine cross member - $140ono Catback Exhaust $150 Pedal box - SOLD Brake master and booster $80ono Complied 180sx shell with windows $1200 headlights - SOLD Rear fiberglass bar - $50 Front fiberglass bar - SOLD brakes and rotors - $180 sway bar - $40 seats - $50 ea Carpet - $40 Roof lining - $35 Dash(has crack) - $70 sr20 gearbox with ca18 cross member (2nd gear syncro gone, still works though) - $100 550cc Injectors - $450 walbro fuel pump - $80 fuel tank(good nick) $150ono lots more parts inc interior thanks guys ph: 0423 849 355

um, rb25 actuators are 7psi, rb20 actuators are 10psi, HKS actuators are adjustable but from memory the minimum is 14psi? correct me if im wrong, thats why people say using the rb20 actuator on the 25 turbo ends up working better, HKS actuators cost mmm well with our crap exchange rate now probably $200, was $130 delivered when i checked last before the crap dollar

i had 1 of those sticker number plates on the front lip of my skyline, i got done once, drove past a cop and he sent me a fine in the mail, think it was $75, then down the coast i got pulled over, and he fined me $185 or something maybe more cant really remember and that was for "fake number plate" even though i had the correct numbers and letters in correct order, then he ripped the number plate off my car and gave me a $75 fine for no front number plate, i felt like shooting him the asshole, more OT: i can see how in drag you would want your numberplate to be stuck on, every little bit counts as u said, JV

nar wont have anything to do with a missfire, your miss fire is most likely either coilpacks, or spark plugs im thinking,

i would be worried with number 5 cyl down 20psi compared to others, even if all cylinders were on 130psi i wouldnt by the car, not with a rb anyways as comp standard is 170psi, as for making it loose compression, there are lots of things, but i know for a fact that its normally 5 or 6 that goes from memory? why would this be? i thought you get alot more wear if the engine leans a bit, screws the rings and/or melts pistons, JV

are u tacking the piss or is that some1 on this site? anyways ive found a mechanic that will come round to my house and work on the car with me, he was asking heaps of questions about it and thinks he will be able to get it easy if i cant, blue tack would fall off and u need a bit of pressure to get it to stick, grease??? wtf whats that going to do? gurnie (spelling), take 1 hose off and shoot it out the other? that doesnt make sense at all really, but i will be trying the claw thing, fingers crossed i can get it, the mechanic said depending where it is you can leave it, just cant be near the water pump, so im thinking i will have to get it out lol, will update later, JV

hahaha i was thinking the same thing, i was like o sweet as i guess that would work, then i thought about been in a crash, it would most likely ignite the fuel, i would hate to be around that, fuel is a pretty dangerous this, you dont want easily breakable things anywhere near where the car can get damaged, like the front or back, or near the sides, (which is why fuel lines run on inside of the rails tucked away)

ok ordered the tool, will let you know the result in the next few days, Cheers for the help (toll cost $40)

I sold the turbo and the plenum (the top half anyway) so now I have the engine on its own. Asking $900 ono for what remains.

mmm its what i thought it would do, god this is gonna kill me,

no, do you know the name of it so i could look it up? can the wlesh plug just be left in there? i never wanted to do that its just this is driving me crazy,

thats the problem man, copper welsh plugs arnt magnetic

hey guys, as you may of read my other post about that thing from the thermostat in the way of the welsh plug to get to the welsh plug, well i got that out today with ease, i was like sweet i can get to the welsh plug which went to the left of the hole, so heres where my problem started, as it was to the left of the hole, i took the welsh plug next to it out (to the left) and tried to reach across, i couldnt feel anything, so i tried going through the hole it was ment to come out, i felt it with the tip of my finger then it must of dropped down or something, so now, i can reach it from any hole, its a copper welsh plug, can i just leave it in there? or how can i get it out? i would be willing to pay some1 $30-40 an hour (obviously there would be a point i wont pay anymore if its still in there) if they could come round and do it for me because im about to burn this car, any info would be good, Thanks JV