sly32

sounds like you doing it proper, yes you will need all the gear you have listed, new gaskets everywhere, i would while the head is off put a restrictor in and do a few things thats listed in that page for oil control with rb's. might aswell do it now while everything is apart, wont cost that much at all to do and it will save your engine, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Oi...ui-t110680.html

keen on the diff, um will pm you on friday to see if i have the money, if any1 buys it before me then damn,

hahaha nice car, to lazy to vote sorry, what you gonna spend 15g on if you get it?

hey, so ive posted up a few times with problems on my car, it was overfueling, i had chipped ecu and z32 afm new engine and everything, so i went to start it and it flooded the engine every time, had no air leaks anywhere, so i have finally hooked up the aftermarket fpr, i hooked this up just after the stock fpr (which was un hooked) so it shouldnt have any pressure in it and fuel should just go straight past it, now the aftermarket fpr only reads 10psi, that because, you cant have the stock fpr just un hooked there? or is it cause the stock fpr is stuff and is keeping the pressure in the fuel rail

hey, rb normally uses 2 different sizes, 4mm and 6mm hosing, so i would just buy both, more of the vacuum is 6mm, but yes there is 4mm aswell, i went out and bought 3m of both sizes, worked a treat JV

yeah ive been running 15psi on stock turbo for a couple years now, still barely any shaft play, not bad at all, drift everyweek aswell so it doesnt get an easy life, it will be sweet, run 14psi as low boost and then 18psi as high boost lol

Hey mate where bouts in NSW are you located? could i have some pics? [email protected]. thanks

hey, sorry not sure weather to put it in this forum but if wrong just move it, no i took all hicas out of my car, so i removed the fins from the back of the hicas pump as i took all the lines off then blocked up the pump where hicas normally goes, the thing is now, the car has been nsitting as its not working 100% and theres ps fluid on the ground, it feels like where i pulled the pump apart, so i pulled it apart again and there is a gasket in there but for a bit of help i put a tiny amount of high temp silicone on it just to be sure it sealed, put it all back together tightened bolts evenly, left it over night and its leaking again, what do i do? i dont want to have to pull it out a 4th time if i didnt get it right this coming time, any idea's? if any1 is selling non hicas pump in brisbane or wants to send 1 to me let me know thanks JV

nar it wont cool anything, there isnt really a flow in the clutch system, if you want to blled the clutch well with the block, i found to bleed the clutch through the slave, and then go to the block bleed it from the block, and then back to the slave, but i would much rather 1 line haha, but i cant because my lines are rounding the bolts trying to get them off so im just leaving it.

yeah i know thats what i was thinking but dr drift thinks the tune should be pretty close which i believe, i dno i guess i will go voer everything with him tomorrow and if nothing shows what it could b, then i will tow it to a dyno and get it tuned

hey, Ok so i have just put a new rb20 and r33 gearbox into my car, on first start up it started making a weird sound, that sound is now gone as im guessing it was just to do with no oil at top of the engine and the fact that the o-ring on injector 6 was completely screwed so it wasnt getting any fuel, This engine was running sweet when i pulled it out of this other skyline btw, so ive put it into my car, i got the ecu Dr Drift chipped, and also put in a Z32 afm that i also purchased off him, My car is running ok, it runs on all 6 cylinders, and has a pop every now and then (too much fuel) and then if i rev it at all it floods the engine and drops a fair few cylinders and stops, so ive been talking with dr drift and hes says the tune on the ECU should be close to perfect and should be able to drive on it, which i believe as my bro's car had the same chip and was sweet, I sent dr drift how i have wired up the afm and he said i did it all right, (btw im waiting on response from him today as i just checked the afm for voltage and sent him the results) so i got from black wire to the white wire a voltage of .46V which i think its ment to b around .5V, so that seems ok, I also did a ECU test, the code came up 55 so everything is checking out ok, Do you guys think it may be a faulty afm? obviously me and dr drift will hopefully find out what it is this arvo, but i thought it wont hurt getting other opinions, Thanks JV

my mate had a few problems with the power fc and idling etc..., i then read in some imports mag or something that this is a common problem with power fc is the idle control on it isnt that good, and using different turbo's and cam etc can stuff up the idle, they suggested a hks idle stabilizer, i think they cost like $150 or something, and that way you can set up what voltage you want it to send etc. so if you car is only reading enough voltage to make it idle at 750-800 you can make sure that a voltage wont go below a certain amount so it will only drop to 1000, if that makes sense, anyways have a look at it on nengun or something, that might help you out, JV

yeah could be your release bearing has gone, which i think is the most likely, sometimes you can hear them spin but if its making a grinding noise its probably finally died (well close to anyways) not sure what happens when you dont change it but wouldnt want to risk it lol,

hey, im just wondering who in brisbane has had there flywheels machined (most people who have changed clutch) and i need to know where i can get it done and how much it will cost, i dont think it should cost more than $30 but if any1 has any names and numbers i could go to in brisbane, (west side would be best), that would be great, Thanks JV

to be honest they are a bit pricey if u want to waste them on the roads, proxes4 would be a good option for road and even on track, they a really sticky tyres, the r1r's are awsome tyres, you just need to ahve a look at the top drifters and you can see how grippy they are, i do recommend toyo's because they have always worked the best for me, but check out the tyre thread as said above JV

it all depends on what you want though, as in, like the stock yoke you cant change over unless you got it cut off, with my car i got a 1piece tailshaft and ive just put a rb25 yoke on the end (should get it back friday) because its a custom 1 piece its held together by circlips, stock are pons or something, but i remember a shop saying they cant change it, Mine is costing about $200 to get balanced and modified with a brand new yoke, i think the yokes are 30 spine

there are only 2 tuners in aus for hks f-con, as my mate has just got his front cut from jap with a f-con, there is one tuner in WA and one tuner in sydney, so if you live any other state it sucks as im sure these are a well built system, apparently there is a fair few problems with after market comps and them working well on auto's, but i cant reccomend one as i really dont know,

yeah just the cooling is all that matters lol, just wanted to make sure that somehow the heater is involved with the cooling , Thanks

hey, today i was removing my engine and gearbox and my mte didnt pull the engine when i said so it snapped the bottom heater hose (where it goes through the firewall, so because i cant be bothered removing the dash and everything just to replace this part im going to loop the heater hose just under the plenum, now i want to know will this affect the aircon at all, (not heater) i dont really care about the heater, i can always wear a jumper but i still want my aircon to work for this summer, i dont see how it could affect it but its worth double checking, any info would be good thanks JV

nar thats the thing apc isnt mentioned on the website, thats why im wondering if any1 has had a tune hrought hem with a wold, i know with my mates s15 they make him gain 15kw to 275rwkw on a safer tune then he got at mercury, so i know they can tune, but as they arnt listed on the site im unsure, but then the people listed on the site are ages away and i have never heard from any1 thats had a tune through them, apparently wold 3d's are some of the easiest computers to tune though so, if they know what there doing with all the other tunes they do surely they would be albe to do it right?

yeah my car is mostly set up, i have all suspension stuff for drift, i have just put in aftermarket fpr, 500hp fuel pump, got a 19row oil cooler, front mount, split fires, then the r33 gearbox and r33 turbo, etc.... i was thinking i might aswell just get them tuned in there to be safe, and if later i wanna go a bigger turbo at least i got big enough injectors, JV

hey, so heres the deal, i have a wolf 3dv4 computer sitting in this other skyline i picked up, im thinking about putting it into my r32 as i only have a stock computer, i am putting on a r33 turbo onto my new rb20 and a few other things, im waiting to see if i can get these GTR injectors tonight aswell, now im wondering what should be the go with the dyno tune, should i put the gtr injectors in and drive it in on stock computer? or should i keep stock injectors and stock computer in until i get to the dyno? or should i put the wolf 3dv4 in and the gtr injectors in and drive it to the dyno?(i can always get it towed), also on the wolf site, it has a list of a few tuners in qld, none that ive never really heard of, i called up APC and they said they will be able to tune it, whats everyones thought on this? and info would be great, i dont want to start destroying stuff, Cheers JV

found it, was on like page 10 of faq, lol thought i would never find it, 12315-04U00 for who ever wants to know, cheers

hey its for a rb20, im pretty sure rb20 and rb25 are the same and they use the same flywheels and clutches, but yeah just if any1 could get me the part numbers that would be good, im pretty sure re-using those bolts are fine, but if you have slightly rounded them or what ever they will be a bitch to get off later, cheers JV

hey guys, done a bit of search, found some furoms with part numbers for nissans and stuff, but i havnt found and part numbers for new clutch bolts or flywheel bolts, i thought as im doing everything right with the new engine and stuff im putting into my car i might aswell do the clutch and flywheel bolts aswell, i need the part numbers as i was going to go through perfect run to get them as they will have them here in a matter of a few days unlike nissan which will take 2 weeks, if no1 has the numbers then i will just re-use the old bolts, any info would be great, Thanks JV