sly32

well no its not really running at all, i wouldnt call it running, its not even close to been normal, so as the moon key wasnt broken it was was installed right the first time, havnt had injectors clean but i dont think this is the problem, dont kno about the coils either, JV

HAHa shit well, i bet thats what ive done, any link to thread? i will have a search for it, Cheers mate ok so i did a ecu test with the other ecu i have, came back code 55 so everything is fine, i pulled the cas out and had a look at that moon key as was spoekn about, lined it up and put it in, still have the same problem but the car will start up but run like shit, is there any chance that the cas could still be off? like the moon key doesnt look like it is the perfect fit (edge on edge) so there could be room for movement and i might of gone a tooth to far maybe? i still think its cas related, any extra help would be great thanks, im not workinging friday either, so i will have time to sort it out, will give some cash to if they can come and fix it if i dont

hey man, engine is a series 2 from a stagea, what to do mean by cas aligned correctly with exhaust cam? do you mean is it set to 15 degrees timing or what ever? if so then no, i just put the cas in and started it in the middle of the bolt pattern, i should have fuel pressure but havnt double checked, the only reason it may not have fuel pressure would be if i had it hooked up the wrong way, but as it primes every tiome and doesnt stop from to much pressure im sure its the right way around, and to the guy saying use a series 2 loom, i am, i had a series 2 loom mopdified for the r32, cost me $350, and im not going to buy a power fc, i want everything stock, power fc will cost $1400, then $600 to tune, im not getting paid all next year so i need to save my money, plus, power fc wont help with the problem im having aat the moment, JV

hey, tried posting before but for some reason it didnt post, so, basically cant b bothered writing everything i wrote before, But i finally finished my rb25 conversion into my r32, i tried to start it and it cranked over fine, it didnt run thought as i believe the timing is right out and it may only fire once or twice before it dies, the cas plug was facing towards the turbo side of engine, i was told it had to face the other way, so i switched the cas around so it look like all my other rb engines, i started in the middle and then moved all way to left then all the way to the right, same thing happened, so i was thinking maybe the cas is stuffed, which is why it was facing the wrong way cause its reading different? but then i was like i will do a ecu test, i got the ecu off a person on this forum and was told it was a series 2 cpu, i went to do a code test and there was no light or no screw to turn, what is with this? i have a series 1 cpu (i think) can give codes of both ecu's, series 1 does ahve the light etc... will this run my car fine? ive heard they have different fuel maps etc... anyways if some1 can give me any info that would be good, Thanks JV

Do you mean a stock intake plenum? As this is an aftermarket one. At this stage I am waiting to see whether Tourismo and vsute can agree on a split. I will find out if my friend has any of the gear you want though, as he has a few RB20's he is selling atm.

hmmm, so is it possible that they hooked it up to the indicators instead?, Its defently a MX 40, the indicators will keeping going asif hazards lights are on until i press II on my control unit, and then if i dont turn on the car it will start up with the indicators again, they also seem to come on as soon as i open the door, i cant tell you if this was because i was trying to unlock the car with the remote or what ever but thats all i gather, for the lock actuator, im pretty sure i changed the right thing today, i ahve a fair few skylines and 1 skyline i was wrecking i pulled this out of the door, pics below (could be also good to save photo so you can show others if its the right thing) Cheers for the help,

I bought this RB20DET off a friend a few months back because I was going to rebuild it and put it in an S13 (that I still haven't finished). Anyway, I got lazy and bought an already set up gazelle so I no longer have any use for this engine. Here is a list of details that she sent me in an email as it will be more accurate than me. the engine comes with: rb20 reconditioned block - cracktested, hot bathed,/acid washed and honed etc to suit oversized pistons decked head balanced rods and crank reconditioned forged SPS pistons 20 thou oversized cometic 1.2mm multilayer headgasket acl race main bearings acl race rod bearings custom intake plenum with standard rb20 throttle body attached rb20 injectors and fuel rail rb20det ecu custom stainless steel exhaust manifold hks gt2510 turbo braided turbo lines harmonic balancer gates racing timing belt rb20 alternator forged rings on pistons all seals on motor have been replaced head has been flow tested to ensure no cracks rb20 AFM RB20 FPR everything on the engine is either new or been reconditioned so pretty well as good as new! Now it sounds like a spun bearing, i am not 100% but there isnt alot else when you hear it what it sounds likee. i stopped driving as soon as i heard a minor rattle up in the higher revs so it wont be any major damage. I'm selling it for $1800 which is what I paid for it. With the turbo and plenum and all the work done, this is a good price. My mobile number is 0431 340 196, you can PM me here or email me at [email protected]. The engine is still at her house at Mt Ommaney in Brisbane. Thanks, Sam.

nar man, car was always turbo, i just blew up a new rb20 that i put in cause the valves stuck down on start up (didnt crank by hand) so i had to gain something out of screwing around with all the engines, so i went rb25 motor, gearbox and diff, but yeah if this is just a spare plug then thats sweet, i wont have to worry then hey?

maybe adjust the pedal so it disengauges a bit later so middle of pedal stroke, maybe as its near the top it still has force on the pressure plate so its not clamping right, or from what ive been reading around, a few of the exedy kits you get come with a non-exedy pressure plate if that makes sense and some people have been having lots of troubles with it slipping, as ive bought a 5puk clutch (exedy) it didnt come with the exedy pressure plate, just some random silver 1, so fingers crossed my clutch doesnt slip otherwise i will be pissed, JV

dno, will check behind where the ecu normally sits, see if i can see a plug, it wouldnt be a diagnostics thing would it?, man its confuising me haha i dont even remember un plugging it, damn this is annoying, hopefully i can find the other half 2morrow, JV

Hey, sorry not sure if i can post it here, But i went to put my ecu into my car, and i decided to hook up my modified loom for the rb25 into the rb20 R32, i started hooking it up and then i found a plug in the footwell, i must have unplugged it and ive had a look around and cant see where it plugs in, can any1 tell me where it plugs in? and if it plugs in somewhere, i have added pics, the pic witht he single plug is the plug im talking about Thanks JV

if you were in brisbane i know someone, but as your not i wont be of any help, he does the conversion as long as you have both your old loom and new loom for $350, straight plug in and play

Hey, so with my r32, i got it off my brother, all doors and alarm worked fine (maybe its just immobiliser), after a bit of use, the door on the passenger side stopped working with the remote, you had to do it by hand, or with the key, then you couldnt even do it with the key, so it makes its own mind up weather its going to lock or not, obviously i dont want to leave my car unlocked, so what are my options? I had a look and the alarm thingo in the footwell had mongoose m40 or something on it, and 1 of the fuses was blown, (replaced the fuse and the blinkers flicker now when immobilising it) so im guessing it blew when a indicator went and got to much charge, so do a i get a new alarm say mongoose G80? i think its that, Or keep my old one and get something to fix it so the remote works for the doors etc... or does both the doors and remote thing go hand in hand and thats why its not working? any info / prices / what ever else i might need to know would be good, Thanks JV

6boost manifolds are cheap, (as in price), i was just having a look at all jap brand manifolds, (HKS, Greddy, and a few others) they were all up around the 3g mark, and the HKS ones say they us the stainless steel SUS304 (not sure on grade that is but thought some1 put up earlier that, that is what alot of copies use), if i had money and a turbo i think i would go a 6boost manifold (maybe in a year) then just black heatwrap it JV

yeah man stock turbo, mmm damn thats annoying i have to say, who will do that? i mean i could maybe get the welders at work to do it, what about, drilling a whole into it and then somehow putting a copper nipple into it? o and also, that line that says go behind the throttle body, there is a vacuum thing that sits just above the throttle body, put that 1 line there? and the other to hot pipe? Cheers

no1 know at all? should i hook both lines to plenum?

i have a very big mix of shit in my car, I have alpine splits front and rear, all of them running off a 4 channel amp, forgot what amp, its black, and has blue light on it lol, (will update tomorrow), then i have a 12inch sub, forgot brand again and have that running off a 2channel kicker amp, then a kenwood head unit, think thats about it, sounds pretty mad, very loud, cant turn it above 22 or i will be deff, 40 is the highest i think,

i would use the series 2 loom man, not the rb20 loom, series 2 loom = no igniter, 1 plug to hook up all injectors, plug for vct i think, the knock senors, and a few other things, rb20 loom = igniter (so would have to change), 3 injector plugs in the loom, and 1 big plug to hook up the other 3, then you have the throttle body senor which is different aswell, the knock sensors hook up at different spots and are different plugs, afm is different plug, What i did, i got a series 2 loom, gave my wiring guy the series 2 loom and my rb20 loom, he took all that aircon and wiper shit out of my rb20 loom and put it into my rb25 loom, $350 later and its all sweet and doesnt look dogey at all, i think its easy to use 25 loom, but i havnt done it myself

hey guys, thought aswell post this up, I have a HKS boost controller, ive put a rb25 into my skyline and now im trying to figure where to hook everything up, ive uploaded a document with the instructions to hook up this controller but, this controller uses 3 vacuums if that makes sense (you will see in diagram), so it says 1 goes to plenum or just behind the throttle body (tell me which ever 1 is better) 2 goes to acuator on turbo, and the 3 goes on the hot pipe of the intercooler piping, which is where my problem is, i dont have a vacuum line coming from my hot pipe or any intercooler pipe for that matter, where should i put this line? Thanks JV HKS_IV_Manual_1.0.pdf

aslong as its the same engine then yes, go onto nengun.com they can deliver anywhere, get some nismo mounts, as for topic, its same as r32gts-t, you mounts will only line up if yur car was auto,

ok so ive almost done my rb25 conversion, things i might mention, My rb20 accel cable works fine on this engine, have a bit of room for adjustment, so it can be tightened if i wanna tighten it a bit, (maybe because i got my engine from a stagea? different throttle body?) If you want to use the non hicas pump, use the rb25 balancer, i found my rb20 balancer ps belt was 4 ribs and the rb25 1 is 3 ribs for ps, the rb25 ps bracket u cant fit the rb20 one onto either, if you get a awd motor, you will have to mod the sump, i bashed mine with a hammer, most bolts fit in except about 3, so it should be fine, (fingers crossed), also, if using a awd motor, the 4 bolts from the gearbox to engine (on the bottom) theres nothing to bolt them into on the side of the engine, i just bolted them up anyways and had it rest on the side of the engine, anything else i will add later, JV

sorry to bring up a bit of a old thread, how do u test timing on rb25 series 2, do you know what wires to clamp it around? my cas was facing the wrong way from this engine i got from a importer, so ive turned it around and set it in the middle, so im going to have to play with timing tomorrow when i first start the car, (engine hasnt been started in a few months), will the car just run like crap if timing is right off? any info would be good, Thanks

haha yeah i thought about that when i went back down to the car, that brown plug does only fit the bottom plug so its all good, and yeah the cas ive swapped around, thanks for the info JV

o sweet as man, thanks, im guessing i will need a timing light when i start it up for the cas though?

Hey guys, so im doing a RB25det conversion on my R32, i got this rb25 from a importer and they said it was a series 2 RB25det, so i got a series 2 wiring loom, and had my wiring guy mod the loom to fit the rb25 and have all my air con work etc..., i went to hook up the loom today and i came to my first problem, the cas, where you plug it in was facing the other way (will add pic below) so the loom didnt reach it, so is this because its a stagea motor? or should i change the timing of it and face it the other way? im really unsure of what to do, i pulled the spark plugs out and they all had nice grey tips, no oil, so im guessing it was running sweet and i told it was running sweet, or do i just solder wire to make it longer? any info on that would be good, and then i found my second problem, lots of people said you have to use rb25 accel cable, but my cable fitted fine and still was able to adjust it, didnt take much notice about it, but then i saw that the plug on my loom was 1 brown plug, and the engine i have has 2 plugs on the throttle body, i spoke to the wiring guy as soon as i got the engine and told him it was stagea motor, and he was like shit, as long as it not a neo it should work, then asked about the cas and injector colours (apparently they are different from series 2 and neo, so do i just change the tps or what? Thanks JV