Kaido_RR

hi What needs to be done to put R33 GTR brembo calipers on an r33 gts-t? Thanks Michael

some more: http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d55561230 BUY NOW: 199,980yen =$2352 + buyer fees + shipping http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k28287039 Price: 54,500 yen = $641 + buyer fees + Shipping 5days to go and the item will not sell unless it goes over the set price (which they dont tell you on yahoo auction) they do look brand new..

just as an example: http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/84076363 88,000 yen = $1035 + Buyers Fee + Shipping 3Days to go; so the price will most likly go up to 100,000yen But they do look f**king awomse

its bolts onto the stock AFM, i have one, so thats why there is no adapter

Hey Dan, the r33 gtr projector headlights only came in S3 GTR headlights. They will not fit a gts-t unless you get GTR front guards, Bonnet and Grill. The headlight sell for around $600-$900 (and that is from japan, no idea what they sell for here in australia) Cheers Michael

nengun: Brand APEXi Category Electronics Concept: The Power FC proudly stands as A'PEX's answer to the constraints and limitations associated with most piggy-back style fuel controllers. The Power FC is a complete, stand alone, total engine management system capable of handling virtually anything thrown in its path. From multiple point fuel and ignition control to VTEC engagement (Honda applications) and boost settings, the Power FC is capable of accommodating even the most demanding performance enthusiasts. Characteristics: Currently available only through Power Excel Shops, the Power FC replaces the factory ECU and controls all engine parameters.(Off road use only, no OBD-II) Installation is as easy as replacing the factory ECU. (Some minor rewiring is required on select vehicles.) The factory engine harness does not need to be replaced and all critical accessories such as air conditioning continue to function. By using the optional FC COMMANDER, the user can adjust and modify a wide range of settings. By changing various parameters and data, the Power FC will adapt to any of your performance needs. Since there is no need to upgrade ROM chips or trade in ECU's, the factory ECU can be kept by the original user. The Power FC operates off of three Main Menus. These menus are : Monitor, Setting, and ETC. In Monitor Mode, the Commander can display up to 10 parameters of data in real time. Monitor Mode can display: Engine RPM Ignition Timing Vehicle Speed Air Flow Voltage (Pressure Sensor Voltage) Injector Duty Cycle Boost Knocking Level Battery Voltage Intake Air Temp Water Temp In addition, there are 4 display patterns allowing 1-8 parameters to be shown on screen at once. The data displays in numerical real time values with the option of a real time 10 second graph display. Peak Hold values and Display Hold functions only require the touch of a button. The Map Trace Mode allows Ghost Map Tracing of the Fuel Correction and Ignition Timing maps. This allows the user to visually see what point of the map is being used in real time. The Ghost Map Trace function leaves markers on the used portions of the map for easy reference. Setting Mode allows full access to the 20x20 ignition timing and fuel correction maps. The user can adjust any portion of this map in 5x5 sections. Air flow correction values can be entered for vehicles upgrading air flow meters. Injector pulse correction menu is used when upgrading injectors on the engine. The Acceleration Enrichment Correction function improves response under hard and sudden acceleration. The Cranking Fuel Injection menu corrects the amount of fuel when the engine is being cranked, or when the water temperature is cold. A separate Water Temp menu allows fuel correction according to water temperature. The RPM menu allows rev limiter settings and idle RPM levels. Access menus also vary according to specialty engines. Rotary engine Power FC's accommodate leading and trailing ignition maps. Honda engines Power FC's allow for VTEC control. Complete boost control is possible by using the optional Boost Control Kit (Not necessary for vehicles that come factory turbocharged.). Changing data is easy: just access the desired point on the map or data, and push the FC COMMANDER keys in the appropriate direction. The ETC Menu contains utility parameters such as : version information, LCD screen Brightness, and Initialization of all Data. In addition, the ETC Mode allows the user to monitor all factory sensors through one screen. This screen can tell the user if any sensor is in use or malfunctioning. The Power FC also comes preprogrammed with several base maps. (Currently with Japan Domestic Market Vehicle Maps. Minor initial tuning may be required. Please contact your authorized Power Excel shop for more information.) This makes the initial tuning process much quicker. As with all other fuel controllers, the POWER FC should be tuned on a dynomometer by a trained professional. A high grade air/ fuel ratio monitor is also recommended during tuning to ensure best results.

i was advice to not use this method due to the size of the stud about 6mm and the postion of it on the turbo, was told it would be better to weld then unscrew

i've had a "friend" import alot of shit from japan and big stuff too from 4pot brembo brakes to turbo etc and never had any problems with custom touch wood

a drill :lol:

n/a tune, i guess u never seen a 4age ae86 its like have 6 air filters

hey, Was just surfing yahoo auction and found something very interesting there not alot of info on it "They are 6 connected throttles of RB26. The manifold for NA. It is the HKS delivery pipe attachment. Funnel kernel funnel 70 millimeter." would be awsome setup if you had an N/A rb25 could grab that and then get a Adoptor plate Cheers Michael

which blitz car is this the Street D1 car? or the D1 Gp Car?

or you could just download it

Thats very nice figure gtst25, im just waiting for ecu,injectors and afm before i put mine on ahaha

stock limiter is around 7000-7100rpm told by my tuner that it would be ok to move it up to 7500rpm, thou i smash the limiter alot, so i've keep it at 7100rpm

yes as boost said Brad, but his is really an rb27

hey Sammie, i through i add my 2cents and see if i can help you The stock turbo has something on it called an Actuator, this controlls boost on your turbo. When your car is stock the turbo should run around 5-6psi. But if you start to mod your skyline like putting an airfilter or exhuast the boost will slowly go up by abit, so you may be running 9-10psi. Thats why its always good to get an aftermarket boost gauge when you you start modding you car, as its good to know where your boost levels are at. also another tip more boost doesnt always mean more power, if you boost your turbo out of its Effectiveness range (for example the stock turbo max lvl of boost is around 12psi) you will not make anymore power. and good luck with the new car -Michael

thanks

my old nismo frontbar has seen some damage, been repair many times by me, today im going to repair it another time ahaha. i will take some photo and write alittle guide on how i did it p.s today looks like its going to be hot so should dry fast YAY!

does it could with an adpotor so it bolts onto the stock rb20/25 bov postion?

hey, Just got a few question for the people who have put an rb26 head on an rb25; 1. Can you uses stock ecu? If not can you use a PFC and do you need any extra senors? 2. Is it a direct bolt on or do you need to tap the holes for the bolts? 3. Is all you need the Head, plenum, new I/c Piping and if needed ecu and extra senors? Also if anyone has had any problems etc that would be nice to know about too Thanks Michael

Pulp, you can share helmets, when my friends went day at the beginning of the year they only had one between the 2 and just swap between them your more than welcome to uses my helment, we can just swap between runs Cheers Michael

maybe its cuz they know your a real jap boy Rezz and i wanna see your awsome driving skill ahah michael

Hey, I just bought myself a turbo from japan, unfortunately the studs on the rear house of the turbo where left on and one snap off during shipping, i guess the box was throw around by the people at post office. Anyways back onto the point, does anyone know an engineering place in Perth where i can send my turbo to have the stud remove (the method I want to be use to remove the stud is basically they weld small parts onto the snap stud until it builds up and they can screw it out) I know you can drill into it and use easy-out but I don’t want to use this method. Cheers Michael

Hey, I've just got myself a new turbo for my car, and i was wondering if it makes a differences if i cover the oil and water lines with some sort of heat-wrap?? and if so what is the best brand and type? Cheers Michael P.s the line are braided if that matters