flagger

Hi there, been having a few issues with fuel cuts the last couple of months. originally it was the AFM, but that seems to be okish now. so doing the cheap and obvious things first. fuel pump will be after this if its not solved. so i had a look at where the fuel filter is located in my r32 gtst, and what a <expletive> place to put it. underneath the brake fluid resovoir and the plenum/block. the current filter looks like its plastic (?) and looks really faded. wouldnt be surprised if its still the original. didnt get it replaced under 100K, though i should have. ive gone and got a replacement filter, part z387, from repco. its stainless steel...awsome. anyway, whats the best way to get in there and change it over? less skin lost the better :lol: cheers

man u think u guys had it tough with corrollas and cressidas? i had to make do with a 76 VW manual passat though it was pretty cool not having to catch the damn bus also, the OP is from NSW and in grade 12 this year yet he says he has a gtst, but the turbo laws in NSW prevent him from owning a R33? wth? unless he is on his L's and he has someone with him?

fitting strut braces (front and rear) made a noticable difference on my r32 gtst.

i always make sure that i hear my locks click shut and my blinkers flash, if i dont, i peer through the window to make sure

have u checked the diagnostic mode on your ecu to see if any errors came up? i had a similar prob yonks ago, the ec u said MAF sensor error. turned out it was the plug to the AFM, just a bad contact in the plug itself. bit of contact cleaner and its all good

got pix man? congrats as well, i know eactly how u felt when u get a r32

well i rang autobarn today (cause 20% off storewide!) to get some bendix ultimates for my r32 gtst (stock type-m calipers), and using the part numbers i found on here (dba1170 for front dba1220 for rear), they had em in stock. so i drive out there, and then talked to another guy, who reckoned those part numbers are for the GTR. he reckoned the front pads for a gtst should be 1232's, but bendix dont make those in ultimates. (he also insisted sr20det silvias have 4 pot front calipers like r32 gtsts/gts-4's do) then he recommended lucas pads, which were around the same price. so i didnt get any new pads, as i was really confused. anyone want to help me out? after performance pads, front n rear for around the 200-300 mark.

sweet, just got around to hooking it up. wire 52 and 53 are really similar, green and yellow wires, just inverted. originally i had it hooked up to wire 52. anyway took it for a test drive, pretty accurate, just out by 1kmh (faster by 1km on the TT), but ill prob readjust it. cheers big ears edit: oh yer, i still cant get the rpm thingy to be accurate, anyone know how to do it properly?

interested, will the pillar mount fit a r32 gtst?

cheers for replying wire 53 excellent. yer i found a ecu pinout diagram http://www.rb20det.com/ecupinout.html will trace from there and find a wire nice and close. will a simple splice in clip (the ones that just snap into the wires, no cutting necessary) work fine? edit: oh yer, my greddy auto timer is the black one

Hey had a greddy turbo timer put in, but due to circumstances, the throttle wire was not hooked up to the unit. so far ive had no luck in finding a diagram of the throttle wire on the ecu. anyone done this before and know what wire to splice into? my car is a 1989 r32 gtst rb20det

have a look here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=82746 i put a rear strut brace in the back of my r32. should be the same if u got a r33 (i assume u have a r33)

do a search... anyway, i get around 450kms to my tank, and thats city driving, with a mix of thrashing and coasting

hey mate, your getting okish figures there for those mods atm. the nissan manual states avg fuel consumption on a rb20de/t r32 should be about 12l/100km. my r32 gets about 13.5l/100km in city driving too. youre just noticing it more because fuel prices really suck now (and prob are gonna stay that way from now on)

ummm my r32 gtst has a silver gt badge, cause the s1 r32's had no choice in color. s2 on gave the choice of color of the gt badge to the buyer i thought. so they could pick silver, red or blue (obviously silver wasnt popular in s2 cause they were in s1)

for a decent install (a alarm is only as good as its install), i would recommend chris from www.soundoff.net.au. he will actually come to you and fit an alarm.

where the hell did you get some teins for $700? i saw a 2nd hand set of tein flex on ns.com for $1450 landed oO

chardons corner (annerley) saw a schmick white s1.5 r33 with a big SAU sticker on the drivers back window. if u saw me, i waved to ya's, i had the white r32.

my r32 does this, turn ignition1 on, and u can hear a pump going, but my hicas light will flicker a bit when the engine is dead cold. pump turns off after 5 seconds. I just assumed its the hicas lines repressurising. also car doesnt chug off boost. had a 100K service done 4 months ago, usual stuff replaced, but not fuel pump.

yer well done, lucky the short didnt cook anything...(maybe)

i got a gear knob off them, took 4 full weeks from order to in my hands, but golden week was on when i ordered. also i never even got my ems number, package just arrived. just be patient, stop being a maccas boy

haha same :S

ER33-054016

ok, just installed them. i just used the same nuts, and just tightened them up as much as i could, the rears originally wern't that tight surprisingly

well, ive put them in, in the rear the carpet was on plastic, so i did have to cut a hole, but what i did was make a flap instead. so if the strut brace comes out, just position the flap back in place and tape it up on the inside pix: