daxter

I had a similar problem on my RB25DET, front compressor wheel is too big for the exhaust, why'll my turbo does spool up fast and give strong boost through the rev range, it did surge. (making 220rwkw on automatic, 13psi) The problem was fixed by taking off the GFB bov and fitting the stock RB25DET by pass valve. – Letting air bleed out rather than bounce back off the throttle body. I've read the stock valves are meant to open on idle and plum back-in in front of the compressor wheel, the circulating air actually helps the turbo spool up faster.

Thing with those cheap manifolds is some work and some don't, some of them can make the turbo hit the bonnet or make the turbo push up against the rocker cover stopping it from fitting properly. However friend has one on his RB20DET and it works fine, so just luck of the draw really. Also, stay away from these manifolds - They give no performance gains and without extra reinforcing they crack very easy.

Mate of mine thought his car was running mint as... till oil started coming out the air filter. As the others have said, get your car on a dyno and make sure the A/F ratios are ok, factory injects usually running at max dutycycle on 220rwkw

Ok, thanks heaps, looks like ill be using 300V CHRONO 10W40 from now on

What would be best for a daily driven 220rwkw RB25DET? (Often driving in stop/go traffic.) MOTUL 4100 TURBOLIGHT 10W-40 Or 300V CHRONO 10W40

Nice clean engine bay H@ME, Ill be watching here to see what power you make with more boost!!

Hi PM-R33, when changing to one of these brands should I still look for a 10W-40 rated oil? Thanks

I've been using Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 on my RB25DET, currently make 220rwkw soon to be tuned for 240-50rwkw, how do you guys rate this oil? I'd like to use an oil that will offer my engine the best protection so it will last.

Have a read through this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wa...on-t115690.html may help

gL3nJaMiN88 - I had similar problems, The SAFC can't hack it once you put on a big turbo and turn the boost up. I went with a Link G4 ecu running MAP sensor, car runs perfect now.

I have similar mods to you H@ME but I made 220rwkw on 13psi with auto box, stock injectors, my turbo is hybrid garrett t04. You should be making more power than me since you have Nismo 740cc injectors, is your car manual? I'm sure with your mods you can run 16psi easy, why did the tuner stop at 10psi?.

Ok cheers for that

This has probably been answered - if there is no gap number on the part code does that mean there gap is 0.8? I'm running 'BKR6E' (no gap number on the box so I assume its 0.8?) wasted-spark coil pacts, 220rwkws 13psi, auto box.

wortho32 - Try reinstalling the stock bov (if its not already on) and leave the bleed hole on the bov open (dont block it off), this should help to relieve enough pressure to stop the turbo from surging on boost. Also if you can, try to re-plumb the bov back in so its circulating the air, this will help keep things smooth and turbo spooling. This should work fine till you can get a better turbo then you can slap and aftermarket bov back on.

wortho32, Can you post up a pic of your turbo. It could be a combination of things. Is it a high flowed turbo with a larger compressor wheel?

When my R33 had a bad misfire, I installed a wasted-spark kit and BKR7E 0.8 plugs, can run 18psi all the way to redline and the car doesn't miss a beat. - This could be another option to fix your misfire

zonk - I'm making 216rwkw on my auto R33, now limited by injectors. Mods: FMIC walbro fuel pump Link G4 ECU Full 3"inch exhaust from turbo back Hybrid T04 Garrett turbo, internal waste gate (Running at 12psi) You don't have to upgrade the turbo for 200+rwkw, but no telling how long it will last. Btw you can go full ECU on an auto R33, its recommended you also install a shift kit and larger trans cooler. I haven't bothered with these tho as I'm going to manual mine later. I wasted money on an SAFC II only to upgrade to the Link G4 later, I recommend you go straight to a full ECU replacement.

Ok, guess I should take that leap and convert the car to manual, thanks for the reply's. One thing I've notice, if I have the power button on the auto seems to put the power to the wheels fine, it's not till the power button is off that it revs high and accelerates slowly.

Hey Aaron, yeah Ive seen your youtube clip, that's very cool what you have done, looks like alot of fun. (Ive watched it about 3x's now ) Would like to use an MV Auto shift kit but I'm in NZ. A friend has a full manual conversion kit sitting in his garage which I could get for $2000, if my auto is beyond a quick fix this maybe the best option.

Hi, would really appreciate if a few questions could be answered. My car is R33 GTS25t auto making 216rwkw (ECU is Link G4), now the auto has started rev'ing high and not making the car go any faster, I think this is what you call flaring? I've done some searching and read a number of posts about getting a shift kit before this gets worse and something about tightening of the belts? What will a shift kit do? Does it tighten up the belts? Basically I would like to know what I'm asking the transmission specialist to do, rather than just drive in and say "I want a shift kit" and have no Idea what its going to do. Or since I no longer have the factory ECU would I benefit more from converting the car to manual? Thanks for reading this small novel I really appreciate any help on this.

Thanks for all the reply's. Its interesting to read of people who have modified there stock plenum and swear by it. Though I'm sure a genuine built front facing plenum is better. Looking at the SR20DET factory front facing plenum, there very similar to a modified RB plenum. Would be good to pull the two apart and match them up to see what there insides are like. On another note how much does the length of the runners matter? Factory there quite long, after-mark plenums they look short.

bombtrack - boosted performance is also in NZ

Hi auss13 That RIPS item looks hot, any idea on the price? Ive also found Boosted Performance who does these - $700 Installed (Everything supplied, joiners + hoseclamps etc) I see there is a lot of controversy on changing the stock plenum to front facing, but Ive also seen people who have gone ahead and does this anyway with good results. I'm sort of leaning towards the Boosted Performance setup tho, drive in drive out, done and good price.

Hi Just wanting to know if there is anything wrong with changing the stock throttle-body on the Rb25DET plenum to front facing? My reasons for changing to front facing is too reduce lag and increases throttle response. Are there many people here who have done this mod and gained good results? Or am I better to spend the money on a genuine side feed unit RIPS, GReedy ect (aiming for 240rwkw)

I'm making 216rwkw on stock R33 injectors, walbro fuel pump and factory FPR, won't push it anymore till I upgrade the injectors. Anyone know the cost for 6 S15 injectors new? My aim is the 245rwkw mark.