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Tangles

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Posts posted by Tangles

  1. The usual problem with hoses is age related decay, so regardless, spend $25 and buy some new high pressure fuel hose.  I use 2 X stainless steel clamps (they are ~$3 each) on each end of the hose;

    1. from the pump to the steel fuel line in the boot.

    2. from the steel fuel line to the fuel filter (under the plenum)

    3. from the fuel filter to the steel fuel line around the plenum

    4. from the stell fuel ine on the plenum to the fuel rail.

    About $100 covers the high pressure fuel hose and enough clamps (I usually buy a pack of 20).  GWW should be able to handle the installation pretty easily.

    I am hoping not to have to do any of this to our Stagea ie; standard fuel pump, standard fuel lines, standard FPR and standard injectors.  I have seen just over 200 rwkw from a few R33GTST's will similar mods.  It will be interesting  to see how the Stagea goes against this history.

    I did our Stagea in exactly the reverse order, stereo, suspension, brakes and now I am up to mechanical engine related mods.   Although I did do some electronics (IEBC, DFA & SITC) in the middle, but that was mainly because I had some interstate work to do and the fuel economy was killing me.

    :) cheers  :)

    WOW! Fantastic SK. Thanks heaps.

    Answers the problems I reckon; go the new high pressure fuel line hoses / clamps / new bosch 040 fuel pump / Nismo adjustable FPR; all up around $500 cost plus some installation time. Then the Stag will be ready for the better turbo.

    Thanks heaps for that info SK. Stuff of legends...........

    Yah, I could imagine you'd do the suspension first (Ive read your suspn threads; if I recall correctly I read a statment by you SK that you've written the odd suspn column for magazines?).

    Ive only had the Stagea for 7 weeks now, so its still fresh pretty much. Had to do the service and timing belt, so a few mild performance mods were the first thing to get under my belt.

    Next will be front DBA rotors, and I'll have the afm and fuel lines / pump installed and the SAFC retuned, and start saving big bickies for the turbo and suspension components. Plus Im going to add an oil cooler for the auto and a shift kit, both from MV Automatics here in SA.

    Problem is, Im not quite finished modifying the Fireblade, only a couple more parts to go (honestly, wife, honestly!! :lol: ). Need to spend some big bickies on the rear suspension unit, and maybe a Dyna 2000 ignition module with a dyno tune, to see if I can improve on the 150 rear wheel HP.

    So, money going out the door still - just dont tell the wife!!

    Cheers to you all, hope this thread is of some help to other Stagea owners.

    Brendan :(

  2. Hi Brendan, you can get a bolt on Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator from Nengun for ~$150.  Just unbolt the standard (non adjustable) FPR and replace it with the Nismo adjustable FPR.

    Note that this is a linear rate (not rising rate) FPR, ie; it maintains the same (but adjustable) fuel  pressure above boost, whereas rising rate means the pressure above boost increases.  I am not a fan of rising rate FPR's, they make tuning with piggy backs very difficult. They are OK for full replacement ECUs' or on cars that weren't turbocharged originally.

    I will repeat my usual word of warning, I don't like increasing the fuel pressure too much above standard without upgrading the fuel hoses and clamps.  The standard hoses and clamps are designed for a base pressure of 36-38 psi, plus boost of 6 psi, making 42-44 psi in total.  Increase the fuel pressure to say 45 psi then add 15 psi of boost and you have 60 psi in the fuel hoses.  That's a big (~40%) increase in the load on the hoses and clamps.

    :) cheers  :)

    Thanks SK for the words of advice (and warning!!)

    Thats excellent information, again my thanks to you.

    So, either I beef up the injectors and add an 040 Bosch fuel pump, or I grab a standard Nismo fuel regulator and beef up all the fuel lines and still add the bigger fuel pump.

    How much usually would you spend on upgrading the fuel lines? Isnt this what youve got planned for your Stagea in lieu of the larger cc injectors, or did I read your previous posts about the injectors incorrectly...?

    Im hoping if I throw my mechanics (Graham West Workshops) a bosch 040 fuel pump, a Z32 AFM, and the Nismo FPR they'd be able to install better hoses and clamps, and tune it safely.

    Just want to do the fueling before I do the turbo work, thast all. And then the brakes, and then the suspension, plus the stereo, etc etc. :O

    Cheers mate, and good on ya for the wealth of information you have provided me (and others) with.

    Brendan Wilkeson :P

  3. SOLD SOLD SOLD

    ** Urgent Sale ** I recently bought a Nissan Stagea RB25DET 4wd 1997 Series 1 Dayz Edition,we have my wife's car and Ive got a highly modified CBR900RR Fireblade.

    Must sell my ex-cop car ASAP, contact me to ask any questions - this car is in immaculate condition. Advertised on ebay and in the saturday Advertiser.

    For sale is my VR Commodore BT-1 police pack sedan, an unbadged SS. Reason for sale - I have bought a turbo wagon for my growing family. Regretfull sale due to being in excellent conditon and also with a low km V8 engine.

    Very low 118,000kms, in excellent condition. No accidents, no dings, no real blemishes besides normal 10years worth of minimal useage (see kms!). Driven once or max twice per week. Overall in absolute supreme condition. A $200 very minor touchup paint job would make this car look showroom new.

    White paint sedan with white powdercoat 16inch mag wheels with new tyres, and also with new noelthane suspension bushes. Very 'tight' around corners with minimal body roll.

    Standard BT-1 car with pretty much all of the SS features (LESS cruise control, power windows and SS bodykit!). That is the only real difference between a BT-1 and a SS model. Do your internet research to understand what a BT-1 actually is, and see below to view some of the BT-1 Commodore features. The car is badged as an Executive.

    Car Modified features: Clarion 6 stack CD player, Clarion head unit with tape deck, Clarion sub-woofer, Clarion amp, 16inch mag wheels with new tyres, full 2.5 inch cat-back exhaust system, 2.5 inch cat converter hi-flow, Powerchip gold 95 memcal chip (should use Premium unleaded), SS Inductions cold air induction set, K&N air filter, carbon fibre strut tower brace, special memcal override chip, cross drilled and slotted disc brake rotors, new sintered brake pads.

    Standard Car parts includes SS interior front and rear seats, SS interior fabric to all doors, strong automatic gearbox, 5.0 litre V8 engine, IRS and plice spec PAl enhanced FE2 suspension, LSD, ABS brakes, SRS airbag, etc. Full BT-1 police pack.

    Car was serviced very recently, new brake pads 2 months ago, new front tyres 3 months ago and reasonably new rear tyres, new noelthane suspension bushes 3 months ago (full Peddars kit, and had suspension test which stated FE2 suspnsion in excellent condition). Just had new right hand front hub replaced.

    Car was in NSW Highway Patrol for the first 40000ms, then another owner for 32000kms, and Ive had the car since 72000kms and have done all the mods myself. Has around 215kw of V8 power with massive torque. Excellent condition, selling as Ive bought a Stagea wagon from Japan due to 2 kids and a dog.

    The BT1 pack contains the following: ABS, FE2 Sports Suspension, IRS, LSD, Driver's Airbag (SRS), 80L fuel tank, Sump protector plate and fuel tank protector plate, Door interior light switches disabled, map reading light/interior light, special brake pads (front and rear), certified police speedometer, with light in instrument binnacle over speedo (to read speedo no lights on), and can be V6, V8 or HSV V8. With the V8, the seats have SS embroided on them. The BT1 pack is added to an Executive sedan.

    Manufactured in March 1995, one the last few VR's built until the March / April 1995 VS release.

    * Advertised Elsewhere * (Adelaide;s saturday Advertiser and ebay - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dllVie...e=STRK:MESE:IT)

    Brendan Wilkeson

    0427803556

    [email protected]

    or PM me here on the forums

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  4. Hi all (again!!) :)

    Quick question, maybe you might be able to help SK seeing we've mentioned the larger injectors etc in threads before.

    My power output that Id like from the Stagea is fairly mild, say aroun 180 - 200 kw at the four wheels.

    My injectors are currently at 76% duty cycle with 141.3kw at the treads.... would I be better off buying a Sard rising rate fuel pressure regulator, rather than bigger 550cc injectors?

    Im thinking Id probably be better off doing the fuel regulator, and a Bosch 040 fuel pump. Ive already got myself a Z32 Air Flow Meter, and would like to get the fueling sorted out before I do some turbo work; most likely hiflow, due to $$ constraints - ie Id rather put $2k into the Stagea and $1k into the Fireblade (as I need a new rear suspension unit, either Ohlins or HyperPro), rather than $3k soley onto the Stagea

    How does that sound to you fellow Stagea & RB25DET owners? I value your opinions! Fact is I know f-all about turbo cars.

    Brendan :P

  5. Because;

    1. The standard turbo (after being high flowed) bolts straight back on.  No mods required, no extra nuts and bolts, no new fittings, no fiddling with water and oil connections, no new inlet piping etc etc.

    2. It is never going to defected for having the standard turbo on it.

    3. You won't get the same response out of a 2835 pros as you will out of a GCG Ball Bearing high flow

    4. The delivered price is $2,593.77 plus Import Duty 10% and GST 10% total = $3,138.  Sometimes you don't get caught and sometimes you do.

    :) cheers  :(

    Yup, was keeping that import duty figure in the back of my mind - as you say sometimes you get done for it, other times you dont. (example, my $2000 Keihin flatslide carburettors for the Fireblade came thru no worries no charges, my Galfer wave rotors - which I fitted up on Friday night; bloody awesome! - came thru no worries no charges, but got slugged $80 for a $251 steering damper!!)

    So, the HKS 2835 is more laggy than a hiflow? Intresting..... Considering GCG have got back to me and said 220kw is easily acheiveable with their hiflow with both ends ball bearing. Hmm.....

    Yah, I was going to keep the standard turbo (if I end up going aftermarket) just in case of the defect situation down here in Adelaide - Im keeping pretty much everything I replace on the Stagea.

    Thanks for your information SK, AC and Jay.

    Out of curiosity, the 2835 HKS, comes with 0.68 or 0.87 T3 flange, and either 80mm or 100mm... what would work best, keeping in mind I want best response and not top end power (ie under SK's stated 200 4wheek kw mark).

    Cheers all, :)

    Brendan

  6. The turbines that i would consider are

    HKS 2835

    Trust T518Z  (or 517z)

    HKS GTRS

    Garret GT35R

    Thanks AC, :)

    I'll see what I can find out about these brands youve mentioned.

    Maybe a HKS from Nengun might be the way to go, just got to save up that elusive 2k plus customs fee!

    Would rather a brand newwy for that sort of money, rather than hiflowing the standard old turbo.

    BWilkeson B)

  7. If it doesn't have balls, it doesn't go any where near one of my engines.

    :) cheers  :(

    Sounds good!!

    Yay, done a little more research into the turbo query.... just wondering why I should send in my standard turbo to GCG to have the hiflow work done for $1950, when Nengun currently sell HKS 2835 pro s for ~$2500...

    Going to have to have a chat to our local Adelaide turbo shop (A.T.S.) and make a plan of attack with them, I guess. As it is I wont be doing this work for a while yet, but just doing the research part of the build-up at the moment.

    Brendan

  8. Thankx Jay95R33,

    Good info mate, cheers for that.

    On that point, what do people know about the XS power T03 Turbo charger (Rated at 325 HP), with .42 A/R Compressor, .48 A/R Turbine, and bush bearings (not ball bearings).

    No good for an RB25DET?

  9. Thanks SK,

    Im keeping the GCG in mind, but they are quite expensive arnt they?

    Tell you the truth, I'd like to buy something off ebay; you can find new Garrett turbos there quite often, and they dont break the bank (ie under a grand).

    Ive read the thread about RB25 dyno results, and there are a few turbos mentioned, but not too much info about how these upgraded snail's come on boost, etc etc.

    PPL's, please feel free to add your thoughts to this thread (keeping in mind the Stagea is a heavy wagon)

    Brendan B)

  10. we do this sort of stuff with race car rotors all the time.  In fact Tilton, Brembo and AP rotors come in size steps, and they expect you to machine them down to fit your application.

    Wow! :D:O

    Thats some v.intresting information you've posted up SK.

    Glad to hear that you're fully experienced with modifying the size of brake rotors.... Im actually mod'ing the Galfer Wave disc rotors on my Fireblade tonight (cant wait! - whoo hoo, I'll have some decent brakes again!), not a huge deal but still a custom job.

    Cheers to you,

    Brendan

  11. Hiya all,

    Im in the market to do some turbo upgrade work, but there is just so much information around the place (ie on these forums), and Im a bit lost on what way I should be going.

    First of all, Im a 'cheapie', so if I can find something cheaper than usual (ie, read Ebay or the like!!) I usually buy it. Thats how I've been able to upgrade my CBR900RR Fireblade (spent $8k, but saved $4k).

    Now, Im looking to get my automatic Stagea RB25DET up from 141kw at the 4 wheels, to around 180kw plus. It'll be run via an Apexi SAFC-II, with full 3inch exhaust, a Z32 AFM, larger fuel pump, and either bigger injectors if possible or more pressure thru the fuel rail, as per SK's suggestion.

    What should I be doing turbo-wise? I wouldnt mind buying a brand new Garrett turbo in lieu of hi-flowing my standard turbo, but I really arnt too sure on the following: what models bolt straight on with no modifications to flanges or housings, what models have the best response, what models have the most lag, what models would get me that extra 40 - 50 four wheel KW, etc etc.

    Currently the standard Stagea turbo spools up from around 2400rpm and I'd like to keep as close to that as possible - I have no real need to be rpm'ing thru the redline.

    To anyone reading this - do you have some suggestions, ie turbo types and model numbers, that might do the trick (not just info for me, but for all of you Stagea owners out there).

    Cheers to you all, and you are welcome to say 'search the site' I got no probs with that, but really want to pick your brains and see what YOU think.

    And a big thank you to you for reading this.....

    Brendan :D

  12. id be keen for the standard cooler piping if u got it......

    (in adelaide 2)

    Hi mate,

    Got the R33 intercooler, with ONE little 'elbow' rubber flex pipe that connects from the 'cooler to the standard piping.

    Ive simply installed an R34 GTT intercooler in the same place as the R33 cooler, using the same piping.

    Have sold the turbosmart boost controller and the oxygen sensor.

    Still have the standard R33 intercooler and the R33 compliance cat converter for sale - anyone? going cheap?

    Brendan

  13. Nice photos Prank, the night gives it a nice look.

    For your info, those side skirts look very similar (ie the same) to the ones Ive got on my Dayz Special Edition stagea.

    The Dayz bodykit rocks.

    Search 'CoolPC' in the forums for more photos of my silky white pearl series 1 stag (I bought his stagea about 6 weeks ago).

    Brendan

  14. Id like to come along as well, say Gday to ppls...... show off the Stag, you all know how it is.

    All depends on if the wife agrees and lets me out the house, and if my Fireblade doesnt get all sooky at me for not riding her like the devil :P (Ive got two girls to please, if you know what I mean)

    Brendan

  15. driftr33, save your money for a pfc.

    I agree - better to do it right the first time round, rather than spending all that dyno tuning cash twice (ie going from SAFC to an PFC 12months or so later).

    Nozlla - Thanks for the advice with the Auto vs Power FC; I thought that was the case. Im sure I read here on the forums tho that the PFC will work with an auto if you do an auto modification so tat you have to change gears manually - but stuff that.

    Thats why Ive gone the SAFC route.

    Drift_R33, at the end of the day, have a chat to a couple of different tuners, meet and greet them, and make a decision from there on who to use. I simply chose Graham West Workshops as I asked the same question about who to use (feedback was either GWW or Turbo Tune, as I live down south as well).

    Once I met Brett at GWW and realized how honest he was, and that he had time to talk to me about the future mods I had planned for the RB25DET, that was it. I wont be going anywhere else for tunes, as Ive now found a shop I can TRUST. And thats the main point at the end of the day. They are quality people, and value for money.

    Cheers to you all! ;)

    Brendan

  16. my car is 5sp manual with quick shifter.. and extra hduty clutch??

    shuold i get safc or wait and get powerfc? for my next mod?

    SAFC = $360 off ebay brand new

    Install = $100 approx from Graham West

    Dyno = 3? hours at $100 per hour (maybe), again at GWW.

    Mine took 5hrs, with a 2 stage EBC (so two setup dyno runs as such)

    Best to call them and get a quote and further assurance that it'll work with your car, and that you'll get that 200rwkw. Id hate to lead you down the wrong path.......

    Best to talk to the experts in that instance... I hope Ive been honest enough with that comment, Im new to turbo cars as well, 6weeks ownership of the Stagea and counting (and already spent $3500 on parts and tuning). hahahaha

    Brendan ;)

  17. Yeh for sure a drive in the hills for sure, about to go get the beast now acctually. I found Sard 550cc for just over a grand and fuel pump off of here was like $235 delivered and just gotta source a cheap Z32 and all will be good. I used to always mannual shift my autos but that was a V8 no turbo so i have no idea.

    MV Auto is good work up there had some done by him, top quality.

    Have you bought the Sard injectors? Sydneykid mentioned in a recent Stagea discussion thread that they were approx $680 from Negun or something similar? I think it was a question about JECS injectors (ie nissan standard hiflow injectors) by memory.

    I just bought a $250 Z32 from a fella named Josh in Mildura...... I hope the fuel pump is a decent unit. Im probably going to get a Bosch044 or similar.

    Brendan

  18. not a problem about the service mate. i though the hybrid boost controller was an electric unit.

    It is electric, but has 2 dials and a button to change between settings, and as such is a 2stage boost unit.

    Is definately an EBC - but I would have like a digital unit with 'buttons' and LED screen. But was decent value for money I suppose.

    If I had my time again, I might have bought a brand name item.

    Brendan

  19. how much did it cost for the powerfc, fitted and tune.

    as i have saved 1500 so far..

    need more power  B)

    go ahead.. i am new to this.

    $1000 off ebay, or around the same from sellers in the Group Buy of this forum.

    Tune and install would be that extra $500 in your pocket... ;)

    But ring Brett at Graham West, tell him brendan put you onto him, and get a quote for the install and tuning.

    BW

  20. Hey Brendan,

    Thought i saw your car at Graham West, drive past every day and have a geeze in, always sweet cars there, and then i saw yours!, lookin sweet fella. Ashley told me the same, but i already have Power FC and T3 hiflow T4 and now looking for Z32, 550cc Injectors and also a Fuel Pump. My AFM is also maxed out and also my injectors and i need a complete re map of FC so gotta do all at the same time(cos i don't want to be forking out for 2 re maps) he reckons it will be good for 240Kw from the 189kw i have now, Can't wiat to find the cash, but then gonna be well in the need for some coilovers. When does it end? God damn

    Have to go for a boot with you soon

    Darren

    Yah, hi Darren, cant wait to catch up, hopefully a hills run gets organised soonish. Thanks for the sweet comments! I luv my Stag, its a real sweet car. Real happy with the purchase 6 weeks ago, suits my young family just fine.

    Maybe buy stuff like fuel pump and injectors off ebay? Never let me down yet (spent $8k off ebay for my Fireblade....). Hmmm, Id luv to buy the suspension deal that Sydneykid has going at the moment, but dont have the $2k required. But will do the suspension probably next year, along with slotted DBA rotors.

    Doing the MV Automatics shift kit soon, and an oil cooler for the auto tranny (Drift_R33; thats a mod you should do!!).

    Need info on a Turbo though. New turb's off ebay seem to be good prices, just got to work out what one will work for me (only want an extra 40-50kw at the 4wheels)...... any suggestions?

    Also, power fc - works ok with an auto?? I thought you had to 'manual shift' the auto stick with an FC.

    Brendan

  21. i don't think the safc support bigger injector, so u are going power Fc or some sort?

    the fuel pump should max out b4 the injector too

    Hi Maxx,

    Im not sure about the tuning, I was assuming that with a bit of 'magic' tuning done by the lads at Graham West, they'd be able to get the SAFC to run with a Z32AFM and larger injectors.

    I will upgrade the fuel pump when I do the next lot of mods, so maybe I increase the fuel rail pressure (as per Sydneykids suggestion) rather than larger injectors.

    I'll have a chat to GWW before I buy larger injectors to see if it'll work with the SAFC - but I dont want a Power FC, as the safc is a nice bit of gear for the real cheap price of $360.

    Brendan

    (again, apologies to Drift_R33 for the hijack)

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