Rolls

I imagine when the limit is the housing size the bigger wheel compensates for this, where as with the GTRS you have a bigger housing so can get away with a smaller wheel. Not that I am anywhere an expert on this, but that would be my guess.

Run it straight from the compressor housing to the controller as its a rb20 front housing with the nipple already there as they don't use a solenoid from factory.

If I was going to go to the trouble of highflowing another turbo I would just go all out and get a garret turbo and manifold. What fails and around what mark? Do all of their highflows use the standard bearing housing? You mentioned in that thread that the entire rear housing was glowing red hot, surely this would not be good for the life of the bearing? The car is a daily driven street car mainly, but it does see some track time so it has to be reliable. The car is my daily driver so taking the turbo off and sending it in isn't really an option, I can live with less boost as it is still plenty of power, just wondering if there was a relatively simple way to get it to hold more, if the higher boost all the way is going to be detrimental to the bearings life like you mentioned then I probably don't want to do it anyway.

yeah the 235s in ku36s are sold out world wide apparently, getting the 245s for not much more, only $220 each.

So you think this would help hold it open? Don't want to get it if I find I have to run so much preload to hold it closed that it spikes or runs 18 straight off the spring. Will consider it though, you know how much something like that costs?

rb20 actuator which runs about 13psi to redline, then using an eboost street to get it up to 18, though no matter what tuning you do the boost level drops indicating its blowing the gate open, common problem with the highflows that use the smaller housings from what Ive read. Would just get an actuator that ran 18psi but I like being able to turn it down to 13psi in the wet and when its 35c outside, motor can take it just makes me feel better.

I've got a highflowed rb20 turbo on my rb25, makes peak power of 236kw around 5000-6500rpm, drops off slightly to about 215kw by 7500rpm but the boost has dropped from a peak of 18psi around 4000rpm to ~15psi by late 6000 rpm. Now I know the rear housing is massively undersized which is the cause, but I like it because it provides AMAZING response, comes on better than the stock turbo and the midrange is amazing. Now I was wondering if I get a stronger/stiffer actuator arm, is it possible I could get the gate to stop blowing open in the top end? Or is this a fruitless exercise that will just result in my EGTs soaring and only a slight power increase? Cheers

Could have had slight wheel spin in rwd mode, would explain the power gain going to awd I think any variance is well within the accuracy of most dynos, 10kw when you are talking in the 400s is nothing.

People have said that but they have a treadwear of 180 so I should still get at least 5000kms out of them surely?

Good points, the ultimate goal is maximum grip at both ends, question still is are the KU36s likely to provide me with better value for money. Someone has offered me a set of 215x45x17 595 RSRs for $350 so I might grab them and KU36s for the back, both are semi-semi-slicks with similar tread ratings.

Yeah a highflow will easily make 210kw on 11psi.

So I've got an R32 gts-t with 17x8 and 17x9 rims on it atm, currently running rubbish free tyres which with 240kw it just spins and understeers everywhere so time for some new ones. Now I am currently looking at federal 595 RPM 215x45x17s for the front which are meant to grip better than KU36s, and on the rear I am either looking at 245x40x17 KU36s or Federal 595 EVO 235s. The federal 235s are $159 and the 245 ku36s are $223, I would get 235 ku36s but they are sold out world wide. Now currently the car is fairly understeer biased and it spins the rears even in a straight line in 2nd and 3rd so whilst I want to put really grippy tyres on the front to make it more oversteer biased, I also want to be able to put the power down. What would you guys do, get the less grippy 235 federal evos, or get the more grippy 245 ku36s, only issue is the ku36s need more heat in them and will wear out faster so I am quite confused what is going to give me more value for money. The car is daily driven to work and is also tracked so I need something that will give decent performance but I don't want to chew good tyres out in 5000kms just driving it to work either. Thoughts people?

Looking at a second hand s14 nismo 2way lsd centre with 6bolt inner shaft, he also has the drive shafts if needed. What is needed to put this into my R32 gts-t, can I just simply swap the centre and everything will work? Or will I need to use the 6 bolt drive shafts and modify other things? Thanks

You still importing these tyres? If so are the prices the same? How much is delivery to Adelaide for 4x 17" tyres and how long does it take roughly?

Looks tough as shit, side effect would probably be horrible handling due to the massive unsprung weight compared to the weight of the vehicle.

Looks like a pretty schmick example, I would make sure you get proof and evidence of the rebuild though, ultimately I would call the workshop that did the work and see what they have to say as they are almost always completely unbiased in these situations. Respray and rebuild would have cost ~$5-6k at minimum so it is good value for money.

It is possible to get a reading that high on a dyno, but the reality is it isn't making any more power than the average 33 that reads 180-200kw on other dynos.

15w-40 10w-40 etc are what most people go for.

there are loads of better oils for similar prices, if you get motul 8100 or something like that you cant go wrong, its a group 4 oil and all the other group 4 and 5 ones are almost $100 or over. End of the day $20 generic 25w-50 will do fine, you wont notice the difference until you strip the motor down 50,000kms later.

its a complicated topic, there is no simple answer, read the entire thread and you might get a better idea though.

A custom fuel rail is pretty cheap, that's what I did.

The only people that would actually cop fines like that are companies when big diesel trucks are caught running without or with a stuffed particle filter for several thousand kilometres. An individual not running a cat will never get fined anywhere near that.

I honestly don't believe you. $11k for not running a cat, if someone can actually provide evidence of someone actually being fined this amount I'll buy you a beer lol. People get charged less for running over a cyclist and killing them.

GTR injectors, highflow, Z32 and computer will get the results you are after. Or you could just bump the rail pressure up but that is dodgy and not recommended.

Yeah I've never heard of a single case EVER of someone actually getting a fine like that.