Rolls

So I've got crap reception due to not having my arial plugged in, does anyone know where the actual arial is in an R32 and where the plug for it goes? Cause I've looked behind the centre console and there is NO plug anywhere to be seen.

It won't make any difference at all for daily driving, if you are trying to do a burnout with it off it will use more fuel as you'll rev it lots, if its on it will stop the wheels spinning and hence rev less. end of the day it won't make bugger all difference, car will feel faster with it off when pushing the limits as I imagine it is quite a tame limiter cutting power completely when it detects loss of traction.

So my clutch makes an annoying ticking noise in gear and in neutral, increases with revs. If I put my foot on the clutch just resting ever so slightly so it is still completely 100% engaged in neutral or in gear it goes away so I am confident it is not the input shaft bearing, more likely something vibrating but I have no idea what. Any ideas what this could be.

What a resistor does is it causes a voltage drop and hence drops the current flowing through the circuit, as the current is the same for all elements in a loop (battery > injector driver > injector > resistor > battery ground) and the aim is to lower the current to stop the injector driver burning out it doesn't matter where in the circuit it is placed, it will have exactly the same effect.

Top post.

Shouldn't really matter but the resistor packs puts them all on the positive end.

You need a laptop plugged in when driving to log the data, if you take it to them it is already going to be warm, that plus you have to pay for it. Just get a cable and do it yourself as the software is free.

It can work better if you have a decent sized tank to account for heat soak when you are on boost for a long period of time and in summer. if the tank is undersized it will work better until the water gets heat soaked, then it will be worse than A2A. How does water/meth injection compare to W2A/AA cooling?

Get a consult cable, run ECU talk and log the ignition timing values in both situations. I had similar issues with two cars, seems almost like it is getting stuck in the low octane/knock/cold start map where it pulls timing and makes it richer, for what reason I don't know. It is possible that it is detecting knock when warming up for some reason and changing maps, you could have a dicky temp sender also. Need to do some datalogging to find out why it is getting slower then you need to trace the cause of the low ignition timing or running extra rich, anything else is just guess work.

Does putting hose clamps around the flex part of the stock intake make much of an improvement for the people where it is sucking shut? I'm getting a boost drop with my highflow and I'm not sure if it is just the wastegate blowing open or if it is something simpler like this.

wut

Bushes are a consumable item that need to be replaced, putting new ones in a skyline whether they are the problem or not is a good idea regardless, just providing they aren't shit squeaky nolathane ones lol.

I have a mate up there that gets pulled over weekly, admittedly he drives a commodore with an exhaust but he said its been almost 20 times this year all for 'random' inspections, the cops must just have no actual work to do. Regency is not booked out though lol, you can get in within a week or two almost always.

if its an rb20 turbo with a sleeve bearing then its possible it just has steel wheels and is barely bored out. I've got a highflowed rb20 turbo on a 25 making only 240kw on 18psi, depends on the housing, the bearings and the trim wheel used. not to mention how much dynos can vary.

Might drop in to the local suspension place and see if they can lube it up good as the noise is completely f**ked, the left one only squeaks over bumps, the right one makes this incessant non stop squeaking noise that drives you up the f**king wall, I can't drive without the stereo on, the odd thing is sometimes it fixes it self and goes away, then a week later it will be back squeaking non stop, tbh I don't know how I've lasted this long, even just leaning on the wheel arch or doing engine work you can hear it f**king squeak.

heh forums are my light entertainment when Im stressed at work, I often let rip randomly in posts to vent I will try this

its been 4 months and they are just getting worse, its weird some days they are much worse than others, more of a metal creaking noise others its just squeeking.

I used the entire thing of lube that came with them, is that enough? They were tight as a flamin mongrel to put in, had to smash them with a mallet for like 10 minutes each and use a vice towards the end almost bending the control arm.

Just thought I'd let everyone know, nolathane are f**king terrible. Clapped out rubber ones full of play would be less annoying than the horrible squeeking noise they make. The whole front end just does squeeke seequeekekekekkqqqyqyqyqyyqyyyy squeeek over every single tiny bump in the road, even the smoothest roads with zero bumps squeek NON STOP. As soon as I can be f**ked changing them I will be throwing them in the bin, absolute shit I have no idea how anyone can put up with the HORRIBLE NON STOP NOISE

Well on an rb20 a single 2530 is laggy and on an rb25 it comes on full song about 4k which is pretty decent but with the shorter stroke you are running and the fact you have two of them! Even on an rb26 two of them is laggy!

This is going to be one laggy ass car with twin 2530s!

discopotato03 you are like a walking encyclopaedia on turbos that just randomly drops pages all over the place.

Yeah I'm sure they know all about it, might have a chat today I've just had less than welcoming service in the past, hopefully I get someone in a good mood today.

So guys I'm hearing conflicting info here, without taking the turbo off and modifying the waste-gate/boost control like hyper says is there anyway I will make it any different? and is there a chance that the gcg turbo won't like it and it will reduce the lifestyle? If I was to speak to them what would I want to ask to see if it has the standard style 360o thrust washer?

Well if you make a bigger housing you've essentially made another turbo, might as well buy a garret turbo off the shelf then as neither will bolt up.