Rolls

Make/Model: 1988 Nissan HR31 Skyline GTS-X Coupe Kilometers: ~130,000kms Transmission type: 5 Speed Manual Engine: Redtop ECCS RB20DET Colour: Red Car details Engine/Drive-line: Dyno Tuned Remapped ECU by Jeff from The Speed Lab, 150.8rwkw over the original 127kw it was making. Steady AFR at 12:1. Dyno sheets can be scanned in at request. Front mount intercooler with 2.5" piping, fitted professionally without any cutting of the bumper or chassis. K&N Pod filter with solid attachment so it will pass a Regency inspection. Turbo replaced with another stock one in the past (I believe it was after it was imported in 98) Battery in the boot professionally installed in a box with heavy duty cabling. Very neatly run under the car. Full 2.5" exhaust with split pulse dump pipe, 2.5" all the way to a rear single straight through muffler. Still has original 'cat' cover and heat shielding over the extractors and dump pipe. Walbro GS-432 255lph 500hp in-tank Fuel pump. Is wired directly to the battery in the boot, fused and hooked up via a relay from the ignition so that it only runs when the ignition is on. This way it gets full current/voltage at all times and creates maximum flow. Drift Oil catch can stealthily located in the wheel arch. Splitfire Coilpacks <15,000kms. Jim Berry Custom Organic race clutch. Exceddy heavy duty pressure plate rebuilt with extra straps bringing it up to 2200lb clamping pressure. Drives like a stock clutch, smooth takeup and no shudder but bites harder than an R32 GTR clutch. Have receipts and is about 2,000kms old. Is also 225mm so larger than the standard 205mm(??) I think clutch plate. Flywheel was also machined a lot to take some weight off it. 8mm Spacers and Nismo extra long wheel studs for safety. R32 rebuilt 5 Speed gear box. Unsure of when it was built but it drives great, no crunching or weird noises. Has redline shockproof oil in it ($150, the best you can buy). Rebuilt Nismo 2-way LSD with 3.9 diff gears. <5,000kms ago with receipts. Suspension: Lowered on Espelir springs. As low as you can legally go, looks like 31s with S13 coil overs. New Bilstein shocks up front <10,000kms with receipts. New Super Pro bushes up front. <10,000kms KYB shocks in the rear. Factory GTS-R strut brace. All new wheel bearings. Brakes: R33 GTS-T front callipers on R32 GTR 298mm slotted discs. About 5000kms old. ADR approved braided brake lines. Interior: Tomei 240kph Dash. Very rare and hard to find. Momo steering wheel with boss kit, ADR approved. Autometer 20psi Boost guage just below the stereo. Pioneer MP3 player head unit, Clarion Splits with tweeters and 6 inch rear speakers. Has a sub output but no sub included. Full GTS-R Interior (factory semi bucket sets, very comfy and hold you in place) Exterior: GTS-R Rear spoiler GTS-R Front Bar Original Mudguards on the side that keeps the car nice and clean. Koya Driftek 17x9.5 +15 and 17x8 +34 (8mm spacer) rims powder coated white, 235x45 on the rear and 215x45 on front with Federal 595SS tyres. Rolled rear guards and removed the inner guard at the front so the wheels clear and don't scrub. Roadworthy Certificate: Registered in South Australia so not applicable Registered: Registered until start of November Pictures: http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/foliage_/ Older pics: http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/fo...amera2865dr.jpg http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/fo...ruise0100wi.jpg http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/fo...e_/IMG_0855.jpg http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/fo...e_/IMG_0857.jpg http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/fo...e_/IMG_0856.jpg Condition: Engine condition is fantastic, burns and drips no oil. Serviced with Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 (fully synthetic Group IV oil) and genuine nissan oil filters every 5-8,000km depending on driving, fluids such as diff and gearbox are changed every 20,000km as well. Even after 5x 6 laps at mallala the car burnt no oil and there was minimal blowby (very common from RB engines) in the catch can. When started cold the engine starts straight away to 1500rpm with no splutter or blue smoke even after sitting for a week in the middle of winter. There is zero bearing noise and the car does not shake when idling. Generally car is in very good condition, the body work has absolutely no dents. Mechanically the car is 100% and everything that could be replaced has been minus the motor. Issues: Some gutter rash on the rear left rim, the rim is in perfect condition just the powder coating has been scrubbed around the lip. a few scratches on the paint and front bumper, paint is starting to fade on the bonnet as well. Some small scratches and fading paint which is to be expected from a car of this age. You can see the bonnet fading in the 3rd to last photo. Accident History: Absolutely none that I know of or can see via inspection with the car on a hoist. Asking Price: $10000 slightly negotiable. I am looking at buying a mates car so unless I can get close to $10k it is not worth it to me. I absolutely love this car so I am happy to keep it for another 5 years and get a respray if I don't get the asking price, I know it is high but it is a very well set up and mechanically sound car. Location: Adelaide, South Australia. Contact Details: Private message, post in this thread or call me on <removed>. However only contact me if you are definitely interested and can get the money. I'm also not letting anyone take the car for a test drive without a deposit although I will take seriously interested buyers for a drive myself. If you have general basic questions please post them in this thread. Other Comments: One of my best mates is a mechanic at Solitaire motors and works on $500,000 Bentleys and Audis and has helped me do all the work on this car that I couldn't complete myself. It has been meticulously looked after and serviced regularly. I am not going to kid myself and say that this car has not been driven hard, it has been tracked and raced, but so has every other skyline on the road, the good thing about this is that it means I am honest and service it very regularly, not to mention almost every part has now been replaced now making it better than a 'low km import' that has supposedly had an easy life. The only original bits are the electronics, the block/head itself and random ancillaries like control arms etc. Also here is a link to my 'members ride' car link so that you know I am not talking about my ass. http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=63981.0

Unless the modification directly contributed to the accident they can't refuse your payout.

I've been told the rb30 or rb20 240mm one should bolt up and work fine, guess I will find out.

Need an R32 flywheel asap, call me if you can help out <removed>

Hey guys I bought a 2nd hand rb20det gearbox out of a turbo r32 skyline and a brand new exeddy clutch. Now I got my old flywheel from my redtop (HR31) rb20det machined but the bolt holes don't line up on the flywheel. Is a silvertop rb20det flywheel different to a redtop rb20det? If so can I just buy an r32 flywheel and it should bolt up, or do I need to send the entire clutch back ? Also the gearbox I pulled out was a RP71c not a RB71c which I believe is the non turbo box, could this be the reason for the mismatch?

I'm trying to convince a mate that RB20s are one of the best sounding motors from a street car, so far I've got these three, anyone else got some tough sounding movies? Posted the thread on 31club and got a stack of sweet sounding movies, the more the merrier though. http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=128276.0

Maybe make the post limit only 10 posts or so, most spammers can't be bothered making 10 legit posts and anyone that is serious about selling parts would surely have been part of the community and have 10 posts anyway, also its not stopping them from sending PMs its just limiting how many they can send in a day. I guess wait and see if spam like this continues to be a problem, if it stops at only these two events then that kind of action probably isn't necessary. edit: A better option would be to add captcha phrases (enter in some weird looking text) to people sending PMs with less than 10 posts, like you see on most online signup websites. I don't know how difficult this would be to implement, however Vbulletin? is pretty popular so someone has probably already made a mod like this.

Just rang up jim then and spoke to him about his lower end clutches for my 150rwkw skyline. He recommended an exedy pressure plate with a heavier duty organic plate which he will put together for extra clamping pressure, around 1900lbs he reckons, only $450 for a full kit delivered, sounds like a pretty good deal to me, was a top bloke to talk to as well.

True, and I'd like to think most users are smart enough to avoid such tricks, however I'm sure some will have fallen victim.

I recommend whoever is admin here try and mass delete these PMs that have been sent to everyone if possible, I haven't bothered to check out the website that is disguised as 'new forums rules' but I imagine it is some kind of malware or virus. The user that sent them was jurdreda

Remap and coil packs. Guarantee this will fix it if you've replaced everything else.

Probably using an R32 ECU with the appropriate map, I think this would disable the special cam advance the R33 RB25DETs have though.

If its an older car the 4100 is probably a better choice as it will leak less. The 8100 is definitely a better oil, but the 4100 is still very far ahead of what the motor was designed to be used with.

They also retain all of the factory features like cold start etc.

Need an RB20 manual gearbox, SA preferably. Please let me know if you have one. Reply here, PM me or give me a buzz on 0423 277 771

Could we get a dyno from 0 to redline? be interesting to see how the power comes on.

Well to be honest they were still better than expected, they only cost $135 each, I was impressed at the initial grip, but I thought even with rough treatment they wouldn't wear out that fast.

Federal 595SS 235/45/17 on a 9.5" rim. When I first got them I could do 5k launches in the dry with 150rwkw, it would just chirp a bit and take off like an awd. After about 3 weeks of this they turned to shit, could barely do a mild launch. After 2 months they were f**ked, even though 75% tread left, sliding everywhere. In the wet it was another story, would spin up 3rd gear coming onto boost, pretty scary when you didn't expect it. The fact they were stretched so much probably contributed to the bad wear. I've used 2nd hand tyres and had one put on back to front that gripped better than these in the wet.

googs

Apexi Turbo Muffler had on my subaru Very bassy great sounding muffler! In good Cond. 4.5' tip 3.5' inlet. Perfect for catback or full system. Scratches on bottom of muffler from leaving handbrake on, taking off over one of those concrete stoppers in a carpark bogging the car down. Only minor damage cannot see when on the car anyway Cost $600 brand new, will be happy with $300ono Quick sale wanted NO PMS CALL ONLY 0411824886 crome in perfect cond. specks are just dust thanks for looking

Are you in South Australia?

Still have the gearbox? if so what condition is it in?

Sounds more like inadequate boost control, eg too small a waste gate.

I'm just passing on a mates quote as he can't seem to get in contact with anyone. ty

Bishop you can do it with a program called LFSTweak, it lets you change then engines to anything from 4 cylinders to turbocharged V12s, can change tyre size and all sorts, some engines sound f**king gay but some sound awesome, the program only works with the latest version of LFS however. Another way is to use CSR like they did in the video, this program is harder to use and I don't know if its supported any more, however its worth a shot http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=12863 Have a browse around on the LFS forum in the addons section, theres a few mods that allow you to change the blow off valve etc as well. Its rolls, matts friend btw, if you get stuck hit me up on msn [email protected] catcha