Rolls

Check there are volts at the VCT solenoid, simple, check volts across it, is it 0v or is it 12/14v ? You should hear it audibly click if it is, you shouldn't even need the multimeter as it is very loud. Resetting the ECU is not diagnosing anything, it is just guess work, check it properly with a multi meter. If the engine note gets louder it sounds like your timing is being retarded or something else is going wrong, the VCT should not make enough of a exhaust note change for you to hear it, I think you are chasing a different problem, is it only on cold start? Plug in ecutalk and see if the timing is being retarded, sounds like it might be running on the knock maps. Ultimately it sounds like you don't have the tools to figure this out on your own so I would recommend taking it to a workshop who deals in skylines, sounds like you have quite a few problems, print off this thread and take it to them.

never too late to go back part time, I spent 8 years doing my degree, 4 years full time, got a job as an engineer then spent 4 years doing 1 topic a semester to finally get my piece of paper.

That is just a problem with the business/company not the industry, should come work with us, we are in adelaide!

Go get a job in engineering then! engineering ftw, I love my job, it is more of a hobby but I get paid really well as a bonus! makes turning up each day pretty easy

ever heard of a boost controller? they let you run more boost than the wastegate normally opens at, google how stuff works for an explanation.

ah the good old microleb

rb20 head sucks dick so even with the extra capacity it will be a slug of a motor, just get a stock 25 and be done with it, you can then set fire to all the spare money left over to give you the same warm feeling that the weird rb24 would. Rb26 is worse than an rb25 neo for a street car anyway, save your money and just buy an rb25 neo straight up with VCT, amazing motor. Can be had for a little over a grand, spend $500 on a highflow and you have a 250kw motor with awesome torque, not far off an rb30 if you go a small turbo and keep the VCT. Seriously go drive an rb25 and then say you still want a crappy rb24 that is barely any better than an rb20, don't forget the more powerful motor will be MUCH cheaper! Because being different for the sake of it is dumb, there is a good reason why everyone does it one way, because it is cheaper and better than all the others. People often confuse being creative and coming up with something better than the rest with just doing it differently because you don't know what you are doing, the latter just results in an expensive money pit that is worse than everyone else's.

That sounds pretty good tbh, a flow meter really is fool proof as basically every problem possible will result in no flow eventually.

Do you get to write anything interesting these days instead?

Lol be funny if it was his

Memory is cheap and so is processing, you can get a PIC32 for $4 these days with enough flash memory to hold a C# stack and program in .NET Was an argument many moons ago but not these days, if you want efficiency you can always use C++ and inline asm where appropriate and keep the rest of your code managed and high level, no need to suffer all day long writing just asm.

Thank matt from nistune, he was the one who knows the code well enough to find that snippet and explain it, mine was just a translation of what he said. My job involves lots of old PLCs and writing ASM sometimes so that stuff is second nature to me, there is an ECU website which is where nistune evolved from which you might enjoy. Thousands of real programming sites with ASM galore on them if it is something that interests you though! Generally people avoid it like the plague unless reverse engineering something as languages these days are so much easier to write with their high level of abstraction.

It would make your economy worse but not that much worse, I was getting 15-16L/100km driving 10 minutes to work and back each day, I think I get more like 14-15 now, I actually get better economy if I do a few runs through the hills as the speed is so much higher. 200-250k to a tank (~20L/100km??) sounds like a fuel leak or boost leak or a bad misfire at cruise. I'm happy to make this change to anyones nistune ECU if they are here in Adelaide, only takes 20 minutes.

Yep the max rpm is 2850 rpm, and it also gradualyl gives advance back before that, but you'll stick get a kick when going from about 2800 to 3000, also if you get the load above the TP MAX limit it will also kick out of the map, so if you are getting boost or > 2800 rpm it will kick out of the map. I also suspect my thermostat is leaking when cold because I feel my car takes longer to warmup than it should, probably making the problem worse than it should be.

Who knows then!

I had two HR31 skylines with rb20dets, they were bad, but running my rb25det off a rb20 ecu it was even worse, two of my mates have the same issue however some cars it just doesn't seem to retard the igntion as much as mine did, there is some retardation but not all the way down to 5 degrees like the stock map shows. Could also be your climate where you are and the car warms up very fast, it only stays on this warmup mode for maybe 5-10 minutes at max, I think because my radiator keeps the car super cool I have the car never getting to 85 degrees in winter which is why I had the most issues.

LOL Seriously you put a screamer pipe on your car and are wondering why it is too loud? Maybe the above suggestion is a good one. edit: You drove it without the wastegate hooked up? You are lucky you still have an engine, surprised it didn't blow up from overboosting, you need to get it tuned asap because it could be pinging it's tits off. edit2: holy shit you don't even have a screamer pipe you were just venting it open in the atmosphere??? Suprised you didn't cause an engine fire, you've probably destroyed all your rubber hoses now. Stop driving the car! Worlds worst ECU, get a stock ECU with nistune or something half decent. Seriously save up a few grand, get the wastegate plumbed back into the exhaust, then get a proper ECU tuned, if you haven't already you WILL destroy the engine and your engine bay driving it like this. Counting down the minutes until you burn the car to the ground or put a rod through the block, can't be more than a week away now. How did it pass RWC in that condition??

Myself along with pretty much every single rb20det ECU has had disgusting cold start and warm start performance, a quick check on nistune/ecutalk shows that timing is being pulled massively to warm the cat up. As our cats are mostly stuffed or people don't care I have a very simple solution that I have tested on my car. There are two maps that cause this, one is called warmup timing, as you can see it dips down to 7 degrees timing, this means you get boost at cruise and then jumping performance when it jumps from this map to the normal timing map as you go from 7 degrees to 30 degrees once the load/rpm gets past a certain point, in the wet I found it down right dangerous as you are trying to pull out into oncoming traffic and it is gutless as f**k, then suddenly it kicks out of this map and you get on boost an spin the wheels. Now you can play with this map but I simply just "deleted" it by changing the constants which say when it is in use. The variables to change are "Warmup timing temp max" and "warmup timing temp min", the standard setting is 30c so you will often find the car drives great on a stone cold morning for about a minute, then this map kicks in. To disable the map just set the min and max temperature to 0 degrees, this way it will never be used. You may need to enable "Expert" mode in nistune as I'm not sure if all of these maps are accessible in the standard mode. The next map to delete is the "BCADV after start timing" table: This is a weird table where it is only accessed on warm start, eg if the car is between 60 and 85 degrees when you start it, so if you find you get odd performance after starting the car after it has sat for only 4-5 hours this is the result of this map. The way it works is actual timing = main timing table + (TADVC - BCADV), an example is at 40 degrees and 3000 rpm the timing = 35 (base timing at load load + (3 - 15) = 23 degrees timing, kind of confusing why they used 3 maps between 60 and 85 c but either way if you zero out the BCADV after start timing advance removes the warm start timing retard. The code explaining this equation is as follows: ldaa X145D ldx #TIMING_ADVANCE jsr L809F psha ldaa X1544 ldx #$AFTER_START_TIMING_ADVANCE jsr L809F tab pula sba In english that translates to: LDX = Load TADVC timing value and store it in register A PSHA = Store A on the stack LDX = Load BCADV timing value and store it in register A TAB = transfers A to register B PULA = Get the variable on the stack and put it in register A SBA = A - B and store it in working register aka timing = (A-B), then we have to guess the rest but as there is obviously timing retard going on here, taking a few examples shows that it must be main timing + (A-B) to retard, any other combination results in an advance. As TADVC is 0 from 60c onwards it means this map is effectively all 0s as well as it only gets accessed if the car is already warm so the result is timing = main timing + (0-0) Once you have burnt these changes to your ECU you can enjoy the car driving like it is hot on cold start and warm start! I gotta say it makes driving the car so much better, no sluggishness or jerkyness on startup. If you do a lot of short trips this will improve your fuel economy massively. If you are running a Z32 or GTR ecu I recommend making these changes as well however the maps on these ECUs are far less aggressive on the retard ignition so the change will not be as dramatic. I'm not sure the reasoning behind why nissan did this but as you can see the Z32 has much nicer cold start timing maps, GTR is different again. Z32 VG30DETT R32GTR I have talked to pete/matt at nistune regarding this and their opinion is these maps were used to warm your cat up and don't serve much more purpose than this. Thread here: http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2715 Anyway hope this makes some peoples cars nicer to drive!

Put a multi meter on the ECU and see if it is turning the VCT on, if it is then it is a simple wiring problem, if the ECU is not outputting the signal then something is wrong in the ECU, could be an electronic fault but more likely the settings are f**ked up for some reason in the nistune software meaning it never turns on, it should be pretty easy to check the constants in nistune to confirm this though. If that is ok then it could be a burnt out mosfet on the ECU, though that would be unlikely. Worst case if you have an eboost street or eboost 2 you can use that as a window switch to turn the VCT on, though would be preferable to get the ECU working. Misfire past 5000 rpm is due to the common rich misfire which is a combination of bad spark (old plugs and overheated coilpacks with burn marks on them) coupled with running too rich most likely from a poor tune or an air leak turning you good tune into a bad one as air leak on boost means you measure more air than you are getting in, hence a rich condition. Reality is probably all 3 of these things are causing it, check the AFRs, if rich then smoke pressure test the intake, then check the tune, then replace plugs and check coilpacks for arcing (blue burn marks).

If you are getting to 120 degrees then something is wrong, or are you talking about after 6 laps on the track?

The pros is the placebo effect makes you feel really good after you do it, you will be under the impression that it is running smoother and better, the cons are you just wasted $40. The only time I'd bother with an engine flush is if you have pitch black oil and sludge that needs to come out, eg the previous owner never changed the oil.

If it doesn't work it might still run but just lean and blow your motor up. Only way to know if it is working is with a wideband in the exhaust, a dyno shop could check it for you, wouldn't cost much more to just buy a new pump though.

Not sure if they are different or not, I would get a replacement for peace of mind though. BOV won't do anything for performance or damage, purely to keep noise levels down and stop popping/richness on gear changes.

You don't need the recirc valve, but without it you will have really loud flutter, will seem cool at first but after a while you will get sick of everyone giving you the "what a tosser" look.

Air flow meter measures air flow (hence the name) so pressure makes no difference, a good example is you get a cylinder of compressed air, you blow up a massive air balloon with it, the baloon takes up an entire room at atmospheric pressure vs the cylinder taking up a small space with extremely high pressure, is there more air in the cylinder? Answer is no hence assuming the pressure drop from the IC isn't due to a leak you still have the same amount of air. If it was a MAP (pressure) sensor, then yes it would matter as it doesn't measure airflow, it just infers airflow from pressure.