Rolls

We even tried fitting a mates strut top brace but that didn't help, it seems even rolling the car at 1kph an hour over gravel makes it creak, imo I think it is more that it is loose or something however pressing on it doesn't help at all. Really odd, hopefully removing it and refitting will fix the issue.

still got a 20 box though. Apparently VL commodore is the same and has a metal end that is stronger so might try that cheers guys

My speedo cable seems to have fallen inside the plug, there is a lubed up bit of plastic that I can pull out and the cable itself seems to be recessed about 1 inch down the cable and I can't grab it with pliers. What has gone wrong with the cable? Is it meant to be this far inside the plug (dash end of the plug) and how do I reattached the piece of plastic to it with the teeth on the end so I can re-use it? I'm a bit confused how the plug on the end attaches and I can get it all back together, for some reason it just stopped working and when I pulled it out of the cluster it just seemed to fall apart.

Ok so we removed the dash today and drove around the block, noise was still there, after listening very carefully we determined that the windshield is creaking so I am completely stumped how to fix this. Other than getting a windshield removal company to remove and refit the windshield does anyone have any ideas, the noise is driving me mental! I posted about it here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/432870-creaking-windscreen/ edit: thanks for the guide, it was a lot easier than I thought but still took at least 45 minutes to reinstall it all with two of us working on it. Also my speedo cable has pulled out of the end, there was a lubed up bit of plastic in the speedo cable that was loose but the actual speedo cable looks about 2cm inside the plug like it has falling back, how can this happen as it should be fixed on the gearbox end? What should I do to pull the cable back out.

So recently my R32 skyline has developed a horrible creaking noise that I thought was originating from the dash, today myself and a friend removed the entire dash only to find the noise still there, after driving around at 10kph with my mates head burried in the dash he determined it was the windshield creaking in several locations, other than calling up a windscreen repair shop to remove and refit the same windscreen is there anything else I can try?

What areas in particular creak? There is one near the left door that I have no idea what it is, and then one from the middle/behind the cluster that goes away when I go over speed bumps for about 5 minutes them comes back, no idea where to even look? I know it is pretty easy I just really can't be f**ked, give me a can of motivation and I'd consider it.

My dash has started making this horrible creaking noise from 3 places behind it, I got angry last week as I couldn't figure out what it was and hit my fist on the dash, this resulted in the speedo cable breaking just to further infuriate me. Car is an R32 skyline, is anyone interested in pulling my dash apart, replacing the broken speedo cable and also attempting to find the cause of the creaking? I will pay cash if you have done a dash removal before and are interested.

Whenever I use SAU if it will ask me to sign in again if I haven't used it in the last week. Why doesn't the remember me feature actually remember me? It seems like it has a time limit of 1 week, this is really annoying, are you able to increase the cookie time limit to something more like 6 months?

It needs to run properly, they will ask to drive it around the block if they suspect it isn't running properly or is too loud/has a locker. Just make sure the nistune matches the injector sizes and don't boost it.

basically none of that will pass unless you spend thousands of dollars engineering the car, what I would do is go back to stock intake plenum, stock exhaust manifolds with -5 etc twin turbos (oem replacement with bigger wheels), standard AFMs, retune with a stock ECU with nistune. You can't use Z32 for 2 reasons, 1 you have a single turbo conversion (will never pass), and 2 it didn't come with a z32 afm. You could get a green sticker for the afm but as you need to go back to twins I wouldn't even think about this again. The FMIC vs intake argument is sound but regency will never agree so don't bother going there. Coil overs that are adjustable cannot be passed unless you have a perch welded onto them that makes them above or equal to legal height, as you probably don't want to do this install stock suspension to pass. Seats unless ADR approved cannot be passed unless you pay an engineer to figure out if it meets ADRs and write up the appropriate paper work. Bov must be removed and all standard intake piping put back with the stock twin turbo intake/exhaust. I'm guessing you also have aftermarket ECU and injectors, all of this has to go as well and go back to stock, the best way to get through regency is with a nistune in the stock ECU and injectors that are painted the same colour as stock. The final option is pay someone to swap all stock gear in, pass it at regency then put all your gear back, but this gets expensive if you have to do it each time you get defected, I would instead do as mentioned above and covnert back to -5s etc twin turbos. Welcome to the game that is modified cars, gets expensive fast.

Sorry my bad divide it by 3 as V = I*R so V/I = R so if you have 3x as much current you require 3x less resistance 12/1.2 amps = 10 ohms, as 3 injectors will fire at once you have 3x as much current so 12/3.6 = 3.33 ohms Obviously the battery is closer to 13v and hence lower amps but the theory is the same however you probably can't buy a 3.33 ohm resistor, to get an equivalent resistance of 3.33 ohms you could run 3x10 ohm resistors in parallel bunched together, be easier to solder in one big lump than putting one on each injector. Up to you I guess.

How are you finding yours? My are quite poppy on low load which I think is due to an average spray pattern, fuel economy is great though and power is fine.

As it is batch fire 3 injectors fire at once, so if you multiply the resistance by 3 and use a single resistor it would work imo.

The sooner the better, when are you pulling it out?

I'm still after an rb20 gearbox in good condition, PM if you have one cheers. It "can't" but they almost never check it, I know mine is well over and I've been through many times without issue.

and this is why I always tell people to buy a stock rb25 neo instead of bashing their head against the wall to rebuild a motor for less results

Ok just replaced, time will tell tomorrow if it helped.

Yeah which is why I am so confused, if you actually needed resistors they wouldn't work, and otherwise.. well I can't see them changing much. Maybe they actually needed the 10 ohm resistors for the GTR injectors to not burn out the wolf 3d, but they didn't run it long enough to realise that their 0.47ohm resistors were going to do it anyway

When looking at my ECU tonight I just found I have 6 0.47 ohm resistors on my injector drivers (rb20det ecu, rb25 with 740cc deatchwerks injectors). Now when I bought the car I had a wolf 3D and GTR injectors, I then had an r32 ecu installed and a proper resistor pack installed so this would have meant I was running dual resistors. Now I have 740cc deatchwerks injectors which don't need a resistor pack as they are plug in. What would be the outcome of running 0.47ohm resistors on each of my injector drivers? I thought the GTR injector pack was 10 ohms so 0.47 is bugger all in the scheme of things. This would ever so slightly reduce the current drawn by the ECU ever so slightly, would this negatively impact the way the injectors work? As they are essentially open/closed I can only see this affecting the actual opening and closing times, any ideas if this would cause issues?

Can anyone let me know which ECU pins the knock sensors for an RB20Det R32 ECU are and what ohm resistor I need to bridge them out? I have been getting timing pulled randomly for no reason when cold, it has only started happening with the winter ending and no actual audible knock, which I highly doubt as the car is running slightly rich and retarded already and I barely put my boot into it when cold. I have already added most of the timing back to the cold start maps, it is fine when I start the car stone cold, then about 2 mins into the drive it will pull a lot of timing down low (probably a different issue) but also then across the upper rev range as well it feels like it is running on the knock maps (I have 3 degrees less on the entire map here) Do not have a nistune license otherwise I would just nuke the knock maps. Thank you. edit: apparently I require a 500 ohm resistor, can anyone confirm? I guess I could just put a multi meter on the sensor to test.

Nope, you can't have external gate or any turbo other than the stock turbo, all change the emissions and hence are defectable. If you want to run an external gate legally hide it under the exhaust shield so no one can see it, or spend $2k getting a full spectrum emissions test done, though if you are going to do this you might as well change the turbo, injectors, ECU and everything else, as if you can prove the emissions meet what is in the car then you can get it legally engineered.

Yep you can be defected with a major defect for an oil leak, clean it up and find where the leak is coming from then fix that, probably one of cam/oil pump/rear main seals

If you adjust the K factor you could get it rich enough to drive it there.

Do they have scalding on the outside indicating the spark is jumping to the block?

Yeah I'm kind of an online dick for no reason sometimes.