Rolls

R32 GTS-T Front Lower Control arm Bushings.. then found my bushes were already knew, pedders just jerked me around and said to replace them all they are still new in the bag, kit number SPF1483K Selling at $120, they are about $140 ebay but postage is killer due to the szie of them Will consider postage but prefer pickup here in Adelaide. If you are interested send me a PM or give me a call on 0423 277 771 Cheers edit: Also have an R32 GTST rear subframe bushing kit available for $210 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/428771-sa-r32-rear-subframe-bushings-white-line-kit-210-unused/ and also stock r32 GTS-R 22mm D bushes for the sway bar which I will give away as they are only worth $7

I bought a super pro rear subframe bushing kit... then found my knocking was from somewhere else, they are still new in the bag, kit number W92447 Selling at $210, they are about $240 ebay but postage is killer due to the szie of them Will consider postage but prefer pickup here in Adelaide. If you are interested send me a PM or give me a call on 0423 277 771 Cheers edit: Also have an R32 GTS-TFront Lower Control arm Bushing available for $210 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/428772-sa-r32-front-lower-control-arm-bushings-super-pro-kit-120-unused/ nd also stock r32 GTS-R 22mm D bushes for the sway bar which I will give away as they are only worth $7

Know this is a really old post but there is good reason for that. Load doesn't equal PSI or anything like that, with a MAF load equals airflow and you can have 10x the airflow at 10psi at 7000rpm than you do at 3000rpm with 10psi, hence the scale is in load. When using a MAP sensor pressure * temperature is used then scaled in a curve that looks very similar to the torque curve to give you a fairly linear load scale. MAF will always be more accurate as when using MAP you basically have to guess airflow. Piggy back is always a hack and a bad idea, do it once do it properly, just because people make them work doesn't make it a good idea. Get a full aftermarket ECU and piggy back it if needed for other functionality (eg auto etc), however never piggy back the fuel and ignition, it just makes them fight each other making tuning a nightmare. Can you get a nistune equivalent for supra ECUs? If not adaptronic at ~$1k will be fantastic, tuning is always going to be the bulk of the cost with a full tune from scratch getting close to $1k, if you are just doing small mods a few hundred might be all thats needed to get it up and going.

After a good look it looks like maintenance would be increased with the only benefit being slightly more power transmitted during shifts. Down shifts are essentially the same with upshifts still needing ignition cut or you spin the wheels upsetting traction so you don't end up getting that extra power anyway.

Anyone seen this before? http://www.gizmag.com/zeroshift-instant-transmission-for-trucks/8418/ http://www.zeroshift.com/

I saw that video but I wasn't convinced that he didn't do like 20 takes to get it that nice. I mean can you really drive it like that without ever crunching it? He says 9/10 times putting it into first, that means 10% of the time you crunch it.. if you know how to drive it. I guess the alternative is to put a syncro mesh on 1st gear I mean you never used 1st on the track/when racing. Regardless though would my idea work or would the syncromesh slow the shifting down too much? I get the impression that it is the dog spacing that makes a dog box work.

Background for people that don't know, dog boxes have no syncromesh and hence engage by the dogs only, eg notches that latch and fully engage the gear instantly. On a dog box these are spaced further apart to allow for some rpm mis match, if you get it wrong the dogs bash against each other and make a mess. A syncromesh still has these dogs however they are very closely spaced together to allow for essentially zero mismatch in speed, the syncromesh then forces them to the correct speed to guarantee they mate properly. My question is I always wondered if there existed a design that was sort of half half, eg a smaller syncro (less weight to spin up, but not as good at matching gear speeds) and big spacing between the dogs to allow clutchless shifting. So if I did this would I get the best of both worlds? Eg I can do fast clutchless shifting due to large dog spacing however if I do slow shifts I can still utilise the syncromesh? Or does the syncro itself always slow the shift down (due to the force required to spin them up) and hence mean you can't shift fast enough to do a clutchless shift in this hypothetical design? Curious what peoples thoughts are, I'm not actually considering this, just curious if it would work.

have these rims I want to swap for stock R32 GTR rims or similar. Rear has some dish, clear coat very slightly peeling off 2-3 of the rims, still look fantastic. 17x9 rears and 17x8 fronts (possibly 8.5 but I have them in a mates shed so can't check). Please contact me via PM or phone <removed> if you are interested, SA/Adelaide only.

Just out of curiousity did the SC14 charger add much power?

Location? What was the reason you have removed it after 1.5 track days? Does it have any input shaft bearing noise/any other noises? Are the bearings ok? Thanks

Lol $750 for number plates.... why would anyone pay anything for them, you already get stung a big fee for renewal each year.

Only the most honest sales person discusses solid reasons not to sell a product to a potential buyer. Gotta give you credit for that.

lol I get the joke, good one haha.

You've been trolling this thread and generally filling it with useless dribble since post one. No one wants to read another post from you, do not reply, do not post, just f**king go away you are not wanted here.

Blew up 3rd gear finally so I bought a 2nd hand box off a member on here that said it wasn't noisy and 2nd syncro was a bit crunchy on high speed changes. Put it in and the input shaft bearing whines so loud it sounds like a gilmer drive and 2nd syncro is so bad you have to double declutch into neutral to go from 3rd back to 2nd. Pretty pissed, I know you risk it with 2nd hand boxes but when people say it is fine and it isn't, that really shits me. Not really sure what to do now, whether to pull it apart and put a new input shaft bearing and use the syncro from my old box, or look for another 2nd hand box. Both are risky. Sigh.

Using rb20 ancilleries and got different sized belts as I kept the r34 crankshaft pulley. Basically as long as you use R32 or R33 ancilleries all that needs to change is getting new belts, at least that is what I think I did as I remember buying new belts.

Regarding the rb20 box, could I get a price including freight to 5065? Does it have any funny noises?

Yeah I can see how if you keep the car for some time, this 20 box lasted 6 years though and I would be lucky to keep the car for another 6 years so the ~$1500 to do the conversion just isn't worth it so far when I can get a 20 box for ~400

Ok inbox cleared out, cheers for letting me know. Are you the bloke who called me this morning, if so how come the 20 box is bolted up to your 25/30 if you didn't plan on using it?

Lol you almost seem happy! Know of anyone with an rb20 box for sale?

Pulled the box out and dropped the gearset and found 3rd was missing a tooth which was stuck to the drain plug. Surprised it didn't get stuck and demolish the entire box. Guess time for a replacement box then! New gearset isn't going to be cheap, I know all my syncros are good though so will keep it for spares.

Dropped the oil and nothing more than a few sparkles came out, hoping it is just the input shaft bearing but time will tell when we drop the box this week. Thanks for the advice peoples.

Last box lasted 3 years and it was untouched, my mate bought a noisy rb20 box for $200 and did the input shaft bearing for $80 on it, have it sitting in the shed as an option, there are only 4 other bearings in the box which add up to about $200 tops. $200 vs $1500 for a 25 box that needs the same rebuild? How does $80 == $1300 ? I don't plan on keeping the car more than another 5-6 years so forking out $1500 + tail shaft mods + rebuild doesn't really make sense imo.

How much did you get for it out of curiosity?

What is wrong with this? Extra parts for sale is great for us who are looking for a great deal! Isn't the more second hand stuff for sale the better? I don't really see the issue.