Rolls

Just don't run an exhaust...

One idea is to find an auto motor, you are basically guaranteed it has had a much easier life, that is what I did, came out of a 100% stock r34 auto with no mods, stock exhaust and everything, and then buy a box separately. Though if you can get it all at once then that might be cheaper. Personally Im still using my rb20 box until it blows up, it handed a year of abuse with 240kw with no issue somehow, still isn't making any funny noises.

So what made you chose the ATP housing?

If the car is hitting R&R massively you will get like 110-120rwkw max with the stock ecu, with intercooler, boost to 12psi, exhaust etc you will see 150-170kw, I personally saw an increase from 109rwkw to 151rwkw with my redtop with JUST a tune, nothing else. If your car is well sorted and it for some lucky reason doesn't hit the R&R part of the map it will not be as much of a difference. EIther way if you do ANY other mods like upgraded turbo you need a nistune or aftermarket ECU. Basically it is one of the necessary steps for any other mods so it is totally worth doing.

actually an r32 with r32 loom, but yeah apart from that exactly as you said, just a few r33 bits thrown in. actually TPS was the only thing that had to be changed.

How effective are these, do they mainly help against G forces on the track, or also with low oil pressure when you immediately start the engine?

You can get unbranded stuff that is just as good and will last just as long. Just find a reputable exhaust shop that will do it for you.

nistune puts a daughterboard inside the genuine ECU. Stock maps with an exhaust and intercooler cause it to run really rich, there is a rather large gain going to a nistune (or PFC etc)

I guess cause with the R33 motor you can basically use all existing loom and just change a few things, I figured with neo you would have to change most of the wiring? I guess if you have done it before then you are the man to listen to though! I'll shut my trap.

How much work is it? People always told me it was a pain in the ass. The ECU is better if you can be bothered though.

Use the rb20det computer and loom, will be infinitely easier and just nistune the ECU. Neo computer and loom will be a complete cock to do and for minimal gain, I would highly advise against it unless you are an electrical genius or plan on paying someone lots to do it. You will need to rewire the coils and cas, not sure about dramas with the different intake manifold. Will need a series 1 R33 rb25 TPS for the nistune software to play nice. Probably more, but these things are all I can think of off the top of my head. $3k with a box is dreaming imo, I paid $1900 for a bare motor with absolutely no accessories or box. I've seen complete engines go for $2500, boxes usually are $1500. By the time you get it going I would say $4k is more realistic, maybe more if you can't do 100% of the work yourself. I personally just finished the swap the other day, but I had already converted the car to R33 rb25, and then went to the neo as the motor died, however I used the series 1 rb25det intake manifold and all associated piping as I didn't want to think about having to mod things to get the neo one to mount up, you should be able to use the neo intake etc without too many dramas though. Good choice with the neo, generally they are much newer and lower kms, also a better engine, highly recommend it.

The issue is it doesn't half the time. We put a set of knock ears on my old car and reved out 3rd gear on a hot day (30c) after idlding it around for 30 minutes to get it real hot and it started pinging its tits off, didn't go to the knock map where we had taken 5degrees out across the whole boost section.

You can get real knock (audible on knock ears) but have it not register on the knock count, I wouldn't trust the standard nissan system.

lol why on earth would anyone ever do this ?

This is pretty much what my mates tell me, but I always hear conflicting reports on here, though I get the feeling the people who say it is good don't actually use it. Heard much about the DTAFast range of ECUs?

What is the software like to use? Some of my mates that use motec in all their race cars had a massive rant about the wolf software 'being shit' according to them, but I'm fairly sure that was pre v500 they were talking about.

Probably need a new bearing cartridge as well and either way all new balancing, doubt he would get out of it for less than $1k

I don't think anyone was actually going to bother heh. In the $2k range what ECU would you recommend? The V500 still?

Almost certainly, but something hitting it, bending fin would be enough to put the bearing out anyway and cause it to eat the housing. I think as a precaution he should pull intercooler and associated piping out, maybe an hour or twos work at most.

NEO 25s have solid lifters like the 26.

Just make a headphone jack for the knock loom and plug it into some really bad metal, lol.

If I made the budget $2k+ what would you suggest? This is just a hypothetical question as the nistune does the job for me now but I'm curious in the future. The only other ECU I've used is a motec and they are just so brilliant that I can't see much measuring up heh. XRATED you could always ask on the nistune board, I'm sure matt or pete know more about what the knock signal looks like, or at least what the threshold is for the ECU, a frequency or just a certain voltage limit.

I actually considered this, you should be able to hook the knock loom up to a switch, one that has a resistor and basically puts a blank signal (eg no knock) and then switch the knock sensor to another circuit. I'm assuming it uses some filtering on board to figure out what knock is, but I am sure you could use some trial and error to generate a fake knock signal. Maybe just put lots of noise on it, eg an opamp hooked up to a mic that just clips the signal or something like that. You could certainly do it, but it just comes down to how hard it is to generate a dummy knock signal and how advanced the circuit has to be, if you have to ass around with op amps etc then it is probably a waste of time. Just put that time and money towards a proper after market ECU. I was thinking about this so you could run an E85 map and a 98 map, but it is probably less effort to buy a $50 laptop and a consult cable and just change the tunes yourself. Btw STATUS, for around the $1-1500 mark, what would you recommend for an aftermarket ECU for the street, eg something with some inputs and outputs so you can control VCT, you can have plenty of trim tables such as coolant temp, intake temp vs ignition/fuel etc. This would be for your typical run of the mill 2-300kw skyline.

Yeah looks like you've hit a curb and spun out hahah

Ah ok, that makes more sense.