Sydneykid

The R32GTR front swaybar design is unique, it only fits R32GTR's. Cheers Gary

What sort of bump stops are you running and have they been trimmed to suite the lowered height? Cheers Gary.

I have always been in favour of more caster and less camber. So that's where I have concentrated my efforts. Plus, in general there is a bit too much emphasis on maximising the static camber. I prefer to keep that to a minimum as most of our overtaking is under brakes and too much negative camber ruins that opportunity. In GTR's we also get too much corner exit wheelspin and power understeer when we run too much camber. I have tried a few inner pivot point positions to get rid of the usual R32 bush distortion problem, plus optimising the camber curves. Only at Philips Island did I struggle to get enough static camber with the inner and outer offset crush tubes. By concentrating on the optimisation of the camber curves I have removed even that problem. For the long, high G force corners I aimed for 1 to 1 ie; 1 degree of roll = I degree of camber change, and it's pretty close to that. You can, but it screws around to much with the camber curve and I ended up just going around in circles. As per above, my experience has beem to do the lower control arm outer rather than the upper control arm inner. I don't have that problem, all of the categories we race in require standard control arms. With replacement bushes OK in Production Cars and bushes plus redrilling of mounts OK in Improved Production. The other things is we don't run the cars very low, so they operate close to their design parameters. Cheers Gary

I've never had a problem using a 10 tonne home garage style. Cheers Gary

You would be much better off with a Silvia, lighter and more rigid. Plus you should check the homologation requirements for the events you want to run, 180SX's are Sports Cars (cabin dimensions are too small) whereas Silvias are Touring Cars. Cheers Gary

380/385 mm front and 370/375 mm rear, that's new off the production line floor. Cheers Gary

Never had a problem, then again none of the R32's that I have anything to do with have ABS. Nor plastic inner guards for that matter. I have redrilled the holes in the standard brackets to fix the missalignment problems. But I haven't tried it for more caster, maybe something for next time. Plus redrilling for more caster would give more room (not less) so I could retain the inner adjusters, which are essential for the amount of camber changes we make. Cheers Gary

I am still amazed at the number of people, especially Yanks, who can't distinguish between lag and throttle respone. The indisputable fact is there is no way that a turbine 2 metres away from the exhaust valves added to a compressor that is also a further 2 metres away from the inlet valves can respond as quickly to throttle inputs as one that is 1/20th as far away. If I could be bothered I would do the mathematics and work out exactly how long the delay would be. Needless to say it would be devastating to driver’s the ability to control the handling via the throttle. On the other hand lag, as in how many rpm is need before the turbo makes boost wouldn’t be affected by the turbo’s location. Cheers Gary

Wouldn't that decrease the caster ie; move the upper outer pivot point forwards? That would help with the misalignment problem. Cheers Gary

Spring steel bar is not available in 23 mm, so it's either 22 mm or 24 mm. Cheers Gary

Money laundering Cheers Gary

I have never seen 2wd swaybars from either of them. Then you would be much better off with adjustable swaybars Why? RRP = ~$275 for adjustables Cheers Gary

Try "radius rod bushes" or "caster bushes" Cheers Gary

They don't but they do affect the handling after hitting bumps, pehaps you need to reread the original question... Nope, the length of the shock and the free height of the spring determine the droop along with the overall suspension geometry of course. Who is "they"? I have worked on BMW DTM cars and BMW Production Cars for both the Spa and Nuburgring 24 hours races plus 5 years with BMW SuperTourers here and every single one of them ran/runs swaybars front and rear. Where the regs allow, they are driver adjustable. Hence my question.Cheers Gary

I don't think so, if there is enough wear that the rubbers are worn out then the shocks are equally as worn out. Cheers Garyt

Running PCV doesn't stop the blow by, it's still happening except it's going into the engine instead of breathing out of the catch can. So you are still contaminating the combustion process with oily vapour when the engine is not under boost. Hence reducing the octane of the fuel, fouling up the plugs and the combustion chambers. I'm very surprised that blow by is problem off boost anyway, because the PCV is closed when the engine is on boost. Which is when 99% of the blow by occurs. That won't help, the correction factors vary too much to be able to tune it out. Air con, power steering and electrical load plus ambient temperature and engine temperature are all variables that the SAFC doesn't know about. There are only 2 ways way to cure it properly, block off the PCV or run the catch can outlet back into the inlet after the AFM and before the turbo. As long as your catch can wroks effectively (ie; separates the oil vapour) then that's not such a bad solution. Cheers Gary

RB20 rods are longer than RB25/26. Cheers Gary

That's a fairly serious RB20, far more upgraded than the Zoom test RB20, which if I remember rightly was pretty much standard with a turbo only. You've done pretty much everything else and I guess it's down to a choice between a standard RB26 setup and say an aftermarket inlet like a GReddy etc. Since the cost is low I'd be tempeted to give it a try. I assume the engine is out, in which case I would suggest careully matching up the ports to the inlet manifold. Cheers Gary

Well that should rule out a damper deficiency. Changing springs won't affect it either, in fact a higher spring rate, even as little as the 20% to 25% in the Whiteline springs will increase the impact feeling from bumps. So I wouldn't suggest trying a spring upgrade in an attempt to aleviate some other problem. You do get a little bit of the impact effect from bumps passed though the swaybar, but it's minimal at worst and usually unnoticeable. The benefits of upgraded anti roll far out ways the negatives. I have ugraded the anti roll in many R32/33/34's way more than you most likely have without casuing any undue bump and chosen line retention issues. For example we slam the race cars into the ripple stips with lots of lateral G force on board without excessive effect from the huge levels anti roll we run. So, in your case, I would look at alignment and worn suspension bushes as a more likely cause. Cheers Gary

Why not move the inner pivot point of the front upper control arm rearwards? You could also fix some of the gross misalignment at the same time Cheers Gary

If you have a 4wd 2 door R34 (an R34GTS4) then the R34GTR front swaybar will fit. If you have a 2wd 2 door R34 (an R34GT or R34GTT) then the R34GTR front swaybar will not fit. The rear swaybar will fit all models. Cheers Gary

You have a shock absorber problem not a swaybar problem. Cheers Gary

That's only a warehouse at Somersby, the swaybars aren't manufactured there. The rear at 22 mm is too small, I always use a 24 mm on the 4wd's Make sure to fit the dust covers plus greaze and regularly service the spherical links, otherwise they will wear out very fast and knock like crazy. Cheers Gary

The rear swaybars are the same, 2 door or 4 door it doesn't matter. The front swaybars are different on the 2wd to the 4wd. Cheers Hary

Motsons Cheers Gary