Sydneykid

Some random thoughts; 1. I have had this argument with one of the race team guys, who says we should turn off the 4wd on the straights in the GTR. My response was that since the front wheels, front drive shafts and front diff have to turn anyway, I can’t see how you would reduce the power train losses. Even you disconnect the front tailshaft the front wheels still have to turn, otherwise the car won’t move. So the rear wheels have to transmit enough power (torque actually) through the road to turn the front wheels Secondly since energy can neither be gained nor lost, it really isn’t drive train “losses” anyway. The kinetic energy is merely being transformed into heat energy. Hence the oil temperature in the front diff should go down if the “losses” are less when the front drive is disconnected (ie; zero hydraulic pressure in the ATTESSA). So we tried it, guess what, down the straight the temperatures were the same. Hence no “losses” were saved by disconnecting the front drive. 2. On overrun the Power FC turns off the injectors (same as the standard ECU), hence as long as the engine is above the highest idle rpm, there is no fuel flow. So turning off the ignition would accomplish nothing (in the way of fuel saving) until the engine reached idle rpm. cheers

I have one set of R33GTST, still require R32/34 Skylines and Stageas S1 and S2. cheers

10% of the time it’s tyre pressures, the sidewall flexes and releases. Try pumping the tyres up and see if the axle tramp stops and/or gets less. 5% of the time it’s worn subframe bushes, since you have fitted a rear subframe alignment kit (pineapples) I suspect that isn’t the problem in your case. 25% of the time its drive shaft angle, the car is TOO LOW and the angle of the universal joints are winding up the drive shafts. If your car is lower than 345 mm centre of wheel to guard on the rear, then try raising it up. 60% of the time it’s incorrectly matched spring and shock damper rates. The rebound (extension) damping is not sufficient to control the oscillations of the springs. Standard springs with worn shocks get this problem. BRAND NEW aftermarket coil overs get this problem where the spring rate is too high for the shocks to control. Once you have eliminated 1, 2 and 3, then your problem is #4 cheers

Have a read of this thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...356&hl=Tech Cheers

Here’s a tricky one………… SOSK took the R33GTST for a test drive last night after we finished fitting the BOS Importing split dump, which works very well by the way. On the way back home at around 4,500 rpm it spat the power steering belt off (it was an old one) and the engine died instantly. And it wouldn’t restart. I went out and checked it, in the dark, rather late, on the side of the road. It has spark, the cranking ignition timing is spot on, checked with a timing light. It has fuel, I can hear the fuel pump start and smell unburnt fuel when it is cranking. Usually spark + fuel = start, but not in this case. I checked for wiring damage from the belt flying off, but I couldn’t see any. The sensor readings on the Commander all look normal. I checked the fuses under the bonnet and under the dash, they all look OK. Obviously the HICAS light is on, due to the lack of a power steering belt. But that’s all I can see that is wrong. I haven’t had a chance to look at it in daylight or in the garage, I will do that tonight. So I figured I might as well post up the happenings and see if anyone else has encountered a similar problem. cheers

Ah, I wondered whose car it was that John was calling me about, now I know it was yours. Big head scratch that one, my guess was cams, which I hope to confirm shortly. I didn't think of inlet differences. The top gasket in that picture looks like an RB25DET NON NEO one. If so, it still wouldn't explain the low power, R33GTST's easily exceed that. So my guess is still with the cams. cheers

My recomendations are: Front Camber = 1.00 negative Front Caster = 7.00 positive (slightly more o nthe left to ofset the drift into the gutter) Front Toe = 0.00 Rear Camber = 0.5 negative Rear Toe = 2.00 mm in on each side cheers

Suggestions follow; 1. The Group Buy Bilsteins have additional circlip grooves added so you can set the height you want before you fit them. There are 6 grooves 8 mm apart and I can tell you the height that you will get from each groove. Wheels (16", 17 " or 18" etc) make no difference to the height of the car as you choose a lower profile tyre as the rim size goes up. Result = same diameter, otherwise you will have speedo error. 2. The standard rear subframe bushes are very soft, silicone filled. They are soft when new and do wear over time until they finally leak. The rear subframe alignment kit supplements the standard bushes, stop the subframe from flopping around and at the same time give some adjustment of the rear squat. This allows for improvement in the rear traction. 3. HICAS locking bar is a good idea (try GTRGeoff). You can save yourself some money by doing the HICAS locking bar and the rear suspension at the same time. Because you will only have to have one wheel alignment, if you do them separately you will need 2 wheel alignments. PM me if you require any further details cheers

My calliper brackets arrived the other day, they look good 1. solid construction 2. nicely machined out of the appropriate alloy 3. steel hellicoiled threads 4. High tensile allen bolts and spring washers Picture follows; I am going to use them with the DBA 5000 series rotors, which I picked up at oran Park last weekend. Picture follows; Hopefully I will get some time tomorrow to fit them onto the R32GTST, take some pictures and post them up. cheers

Yep "drift" and "all round" cheers

For what you want to do, you definitely need pineapples for their adjustment potential. cheers

Yellow ends, with polished alloy rod, adjusting nuts at each end of the rod where it bolts to the ends. cheers

10 psi, assuming you tune it properly (A/F ratios and ignition timing). cheers

You can tune a Power FC with the optional Boost Control Kit via a laptop using Datalogit software. cheers

There is always an exception to the rule, maybe you get to be it on this one. Although, maybe the solid mount at the gearbox bellhousing to block joint is the trick. On mine, I can unbolt the exhaust manifold from the engine and the turbo, wastegate and exhaust manifold don't move up or down. So the only thing my exhaust manifold does is transport the gas, it doesn't even hold up its own weight. Plus I have 2 stainless steel rods that go from the exhaust manifold (to head flange) to the turbine flange on the exhaust manifold. So the exhaust manifold gets zero side loading as well as zero up and down. The circuit race G forces are quite severe, so I made sure I avoided that problem as well. cheers

What improvement did you notice when you changed from the standard BOV's? cheers

The Standard GTR BOV's are better than 99% of the aftermarket ones you can buy. cheers

I hear about cracking exhaust manifolds a lot, but when I dig deaper I find 99% of the time the whole exhaust system is hanging off the turbo. A rubber hanger or 2 at the rear mufler, that's it. The turbo, the wastegate, the dump pipe, engine pipe, cat (if there is one) etc all hanging off a red hot glowing exhaust manifold. Is it any wonder they crack. As I have posted many times, I use a vertically solid mount at the bellhousing to block joint and another mount at the gearbox subframe. That way all the exhaust manifold has ot do it hold itself up. I have never cracked an exhaust manifold of any type, thin stainless or not. cheers

Yep, they will "fit", but the R33GTR is some 200 kgs heavier over the front wheels than an R34GTT. So I doubt that the rates or height would be "suitable". Cheers

I would add that; 1. pineapples allow you to adjust the angle of the rear subframe itself for more or less squat/traction, changing the bushes doesn't. 2. pineapples are DIY, $105 in parts and 20 minutes to fit, the hardest part is jacking the car up, sticking the axle standards under it (for your safety) and taking off the wheels. Chenging bushes means removing the whole subframe and using a 20 tonne press ot remove the standard bushes, not exactly DIY. cheers

I can't see why it wouldn't fit an RB20. OK on the idle control and water bleed. For the guys that are following me.......... I don't know how good or bad this one is going to be. So please don't buy it just because I am. Remember I am buying it for testing on the R33GTST. If it works out OK, then I will say so. But keep in mind my success rate with aftermarket plenums is not very high ie; ZERO cheers

PM sent cheers

Bilstein currently has a small stock of the rare front shocks. So if you want a kit please get it soon. cheers