Sydneykid

The very first set up adjustment I do is ride height, then corner weight. I never run lower than 355 mm centre of wheel to guard on the front, we need that height to give sufficient clearance and maintain reasonable drive shaft angles. So I haven’t needed to resort to bump steer adjustments, upper and low control arm geometry changes etc. The rear ride height is something that I play around with a fair bit, I start off at 345 mm centre of wheel to guard. It’s amazing how much difference even just 10 mm in ride height can change the balance. I would like more, but I can‘t seem to get the front drive shafts to live at more 6-7 degrees of caster. Plus it limits the range of adjustment on the front stabiliser bar. Spring shock and bar rates are all interrelated. I determine the range of anti roll adjustment I want first, front and rear. Because I prefer to balance the handling using the stabiliser bars, as it is far easier/quicker than doing endless spring swaps. Selecting the spring rates first is the wrong way around and causes drastic stuff like removing the rear bar. On an R32/33/34GTR I have found a 24 mm adjustable front bar is about as big as I can use. On the rear I use a 24 mm adjustable in the dry, in the wet I sometimes need to swap to the 22 mm rear bar. As, even on the softest setting, the 24 mm is still a little big when you have standing water on the track. Springs rates are a source of endless discussion, my philosophy is quite simple. I run as soft a spring rate as I can. This enable the car to jump the ripple strips without being thrown off line, it can also ride the bumps that our circuits are covered in. The front ranges from 275 lbs per inch (5 kg/mm) to 400 lbs per inch (7 kg/mm). The rear from 200 lbs per inch (3.5 kg/mm) to 275 lbs per inch (5 kg /mm). The front and rear springs are all the same ID and free height and I have 9 pairs in 25 lbs per inch increments. The most common spring rates used are 350 lbs per inch (6.3 kg/mm) front and 225 lbs per inch (4 kg/mm) rear. We use Proflex double adjustable shocks with remote canisters. Other than stabiliser bars, I spend most of my time adjusting the shocks. There are so many choices and combinations and we don’t log suspension movement, so there is a lot of driver feel in achieving the result. I wouldn’t suggest using adjustable shocks unless you have the experience, expertise and feel for what is right and what is wrong. You can go round in circles for days and totally confuse yourself. That’s with crew of 4 and a very experienced driver. Front toe wise I have run 3mm toe out on each side, but 2 mm is more common. I have found that rear toe is very sensitive, some drivers don’t like the nervous feeling under brakes that you get from more than 1-2 mm of toe out on the rear. Other drivers don’t mind 4 mm each side. So comfort under brakes is always the limiting factor. I have never had to run more than 2 mm toe out, and even that was before we had the rang of bar adjustment that we now have. Front camber varies from circuit to circuit, the minimum is around 2.5 degrees negative and I haven’t had to run more than 4 degrees. That is usually reserved for high speed circuits with long corners. The common setting is around 3.25 degrees. As usual the pyrometer readings tell you when you have it right. Similarly, rear camber varies from circuit to circuit, the minimum is around 0.75 degrees negative and I haven’t had to run more than 2 degrees. Once again that is usually reserved for high speed circuits with long corners. The common setting is around 1.50 degrees. As per the front, the pyrometer readings tell you when you have it right. That’s about it from me. cheers PS; I hate A048R’s, but they are the control tyre so I have no choice.

It is something I say often, but always need to repeat it. Ride height is VERY important on a Skyline, even MORE so on a GTR. Remember, low is slow. So any set of alignment numbers need to include the ride height, otherwise they are basically useless. Centre of wheel to guard is the accepted standard, that way it doesn’t matter what size wheels of tyres you have, it is always comparable from car to car. I reckon 80% of the time mid corner understeer in GTR’s is caused by too low ride height. It’s the first thing I measure. Don’t fall into the trap of believing that toe out only works on turn in. If they are too low they bump steer to toe in. GTR’s do drive the front wheels, so corner exit understeer is also affected by the front toe alignment. As for camber settings, if you don’t already have a pyrometer, spend $150, buy one and tune the camber via the tyre temperatures. Any other method is guesswork. If your GTR is still understeering (mid corner or exit) and you have the front ride height at 355 mm or more, the caster is set at max, some toe out (2 mm each side or so), lots of rear anti roll, minimum front anti roll, 2.5 to 3.5 degrees of front camber…….then your front spring rate or your front shock bump rate is too high. Playing with the other settings WON’T fix that, soften the spring rate and/or adjust the shock bump rate is the RIGHT answer. cheers

Yep they work just fine, last time I did it I bought 3 sets (of 4) and did 2 cars. Keep in mind that it is only the JDM S15 manuals that have the 480 cc injectors. Not all S15’s. Cheers

Let me start of by stating that I am not the world’s best tuner, far from it. With that out of the way, I always find it harder (more time consuming) to tune a car with larger than necessary injectors. That means slightly higher tuning costs, if I was doing it (not that you would want that) . Secondly, all injectors are not the same flow rate, commonly you will find 1.5% to 3% variation in their individual flow rates. I find larger injectors are at the higher end of the scale. So 3% of 740 cc’s is a lot more than 1.5% of 550 cc’s. You have to tune for this larger variation between cylinders. That’s a little more time on dyno. All together, the above may not amount to much extra $cost. But it is worth keeping in mind. cheers PS; I have seen a standard Power FC handle 1100 cc injectors easily. After you shoot the guy that told you otherwise, hang him just to make sure he can’t spread that crap any more..

Try the same settings and monitor the tyre temperatures on the track and the tread wear on the road. Cheers

Not wishing to contaminate the thread, but it will make ZERO difference to the inlet temperature. The air travels so fast though the pipework that no heat is passed from the pipework to the air inside it.. Cheers

Personally I wouldn’t use R33/34GTR suspension in an R34GTT. There is a ~180 kgs weight difference between the 2wd and the 4wd, so the front spring and shock rates will be decidedly different. Check out the Group Buy for a superior solution; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88141 cheers

Item Condition: 17inch chromie wheels that came with my car and my grandmother wants them gone from her bedroom... says she doesn't like moving them to get in and out of the wardrobe (i think she's an old whinger...). Anyways, comes with all centre caps too aye, nothing missing. The are 9 inches wide with 255s, new for the back Price and price conditions: $1000 OR best offer? Rubber is really good, 2 are practically new... I dunno what they are worth. PICK UP would be appreciated. I am in Sydney, Sutho shire, but I can personally deliver for a nominal fee!! Extra Info: I REALLY want to sell them, and I never want to see them again. Pictures: I can take more tomorrow when I go visit my granny... Lemme know Contact Details: PM me, email me, phone me on 0418 432 857. Hell Location: The Sutherland Shire. Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: TAKE THEM AWAY, Pay me money! I don't wanna send them really, its a real pain in the ass.

Then the spherical bearings wear out, because you can't grease them. Very rapidly thereafter they start to rattle their heads off. Most times you can't buy new sphericals because they are a unique size, so you have to replace the whole arm. Bushes are a much simplier, cheaper and longer lasting solution, not to mention 100% legal. Just put the car on the aligner, work out how much correction you need and adjust the bushes accordingly. Any minor adjustment can be completed wiht the car on the aligner, using the standard adjusters. Any experienced wheel aligner would have no problem with that methodology, they do it every day on Foulcans and Commondoors. D cheers

As usual it's all in the numbers................... 210 rwkw + 65 rwkw for losses = 275 rwkw 27 rwkw x 1.34 = 368.5 bhp Pretty close to 370 cc = 370 bhp. 550 cc = 550 bhp 550 bhp / 1.34 = 410 rwkw 410 rwkw – 65 rwkw losses = 345 rwkw That’s at standard fuel pressure (34-36 psi) You could use the adjustable FPR to raise the pressure to 47 psi and you are looking at just over 625 cc of flow 625 cc = 625 bhp 625 bhp / 1.34 = 466 rwkw 466 rwkw – 65 rwkw losses = 401 rwkw 47 psi fuel pressure + boost, say 25 psi = 72 psi Which is well within the range of a Bosch fuel pump (044 for example). I wouldn’t use a Walbro though. Plus I would STRONGLY suggest using new fuel hoses and clamps for that level of fuel pressure. cheers

I'll be there, not sure which car, R32 or R33. cheers

This one doesn't work for me; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?act=Search cheers

Still need 3 sets, anyone who has fitted a Jap coil over kit will have the standard strut tops left over. I will put them to good use. cheers

Time for a touch of realism and a genuine wish for good luck in tuning it. Some things to think about; 1. Torque x Rpm = horsepower. 2. Mechanical losses increase with torque output 3. Aerodynamic drag rises with the square of speed, but the horsepower absorbed rises with the cube of speed. 4. 50% of the horsepower does not arrive at 50% of the throttle opening, well not on any engine I have ever tuned. On an N/A engine it’s closer to 30%, a supercharged engine around 40% and a turbocharged engine around 55%. 5. This % varies markedly according to rpm If you do achieve the magic of balancing the above, you will have achieved something that all of the automotive manufacturers in the world haven’t been able to despite 110 years of trying. The most recent attempts being throttle by wire, because a linear response throttle cable has no chance. cheers

Measure the ride height, centre of wheel to guard, that is a good indicator of excessive camber. For the Group Buy camber kits, this is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard; Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits cheers

Same problem yesterday and today. cheers

I heard that RBR were trying to arrange for Renault engines for 2007. The problem is the ongoing contract with Ferrari for engine supply. I understand that they are trying to shift that to Torro Rosso to replace the Cosworth V10. Since Flavio knows what is going on at Renault and is Webber’s manager, I wouldn’t be surprised if this is the plan. I like the look of Weber in an Adrian Newey designed chassis with Renault engines. cheers

PM resent. cheers

The inner upper arm bushes are actually located in the arms. So it is a much easier to replace them then the outer upper control arm bushes as they are in the uprights, which are a big job to remove. Look at the car itself and it is obvious. You will need a 10-20 tonne press to remove the old standard rubber bushes. Lots less pressure required to push in the new polyurethane bushes. cheers

PM resent cheers

Wow 130 mm ID, that's a big one. What is it out of? A WRX perhaps? It's a softy, 115 lbs per inch (2 kg/mm) Cheers Gary

A few years back I upgraded an RB25DE cylinder head. I bought the RB26 parts (valves, valve springs, collets, retainers, followers etc) used on the For Sale forum from one of the heaps of guys who upgrade their standard RB26 stuff. Cost was around $600 for the bits. Then it took a few hours to fit it to the RB25 cylinder head, regrind the valve seats, new seals and gaskets. Plus we ported it, matched he combustion chambers volumes and polished them. The labour and parts cost would be been around $900. Wouldn't bother doing it again, cheaper to buy a used RB26 cylinder head complete and sell the RB25 one. The new RB31DET (below) has an RB26 cylinder head for that reason. cheers

1. Do a search 2. Try this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers

Yes cheers

Make one, piece of brass rod and drill a hole in it. Simple. Look at the table I posted, it shows what size hole to drill for each application. cheers