Sydneykid

The Group Buy Thread, always the first place I look http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=radials cheers

Suggestions follow; 1. You really need to know the spring rates, this thread shows you how to get the dimensions, then send them to me and I will work out the spring rartes for you. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 2. I have never seen non adjustable Ohlins. Are you sure they are Ohlins? Are you sure that they are non adjustable? No knobs or allen key adjusters on the shock tops? 3 & 4. For regular circuit work you really should look at upgrading to adjustable stabiliser bars, that will enable you to tune the handling balance 5. For regular circuit work you really need around 2.5 to 4.0 degrees negative camber at the front and 1.0 to 2.0 negative camber at the rear. More caster (than standard) is even more essential, do yourself a favour and spend ~$120 and get a caster adjusting kit. 6. Good move 7. That's enough to get some power oversteer 8. OK On to your observations. For mid corner oversteer, my first guess is the rear spring rate is too high, not unusual for a Japanese kit. Hence why you need to spend a few minutes and get those coil spring dimensions. If you had adjustable stabiliser bars you could have wound on a bit more front bar, that would have overcome the oversteer. Or wound off the rear bar, if it wasn't already at its softest setting. You could try a little rear toe in, say 2 mm. That will help with the midcorner oversteer, but the downside might be poorer turn in response. It's simply a matter of trying it. For driving technique, I would try a slightly slower corner entry and then use a little power at mid corner. This gives the front wheels a little torque which tends to pull the car straight. Not large lump of throttle, just a progressive squeeze, which will them give you a higher entry speed to the next straight. Hope that has been of some help cheers

Four reasons I can think of; 1. He doesn't know 2. He wants to "get you in the door" with a low quote 3. Once you have started you won't want to stop and so you are going to be spending a lot of money with him. 4. All of the above cheers

NI turbos will develop over 1 bar at 4,250 rpm if tuned correctly. As usual there are 3 things that he needs tot do..........tuning, tuning, tuning. cheers

KKK turbos are made in Germany. Audi, BMW, Porsche, VW are German car manufacturers, so they use the local product. The German speaking KKK turbo enginneers live at the car factory for months working with the manufacturer to make sure they get exactly what they want. KKK turbos and Porsche have a technology sharing and supply agreement that dates back to the 70's. The Audi agreement dates back to the original Quattro rally cars of the 80's. Audi is owned by VW, etc etc. In summary it's one big happy krautfest, they aren't going to let some American/Japanese company get their foot in the door. cheers

I need to know a few details before I can really make any meaningful suggestions; 1. Spring rates? 2. Shock brand? 3. Stabiliser bar size? 4. Stabiliser bar settings, if adjustable? 5. Wheel alignment settings? 6. HICAS or not? 7. Engine power? 8. LSD type and condition That'll do for a start. cheers

What model? 150-160 is OK for R33GTST (RB25DET) 130-140 is OK for R32GTST (RB20DET) Compression tests are a bit unreliable for absolute numbers, depends if the engine is properly warmed up, how good the battery is etc. Compression test is really only good for picking one (or two) cylinders being down on the rest. Leak down tests (wet and dry) are a more accurate check. cheers

Stangely enough it's called a Garret T04Z (how about that) Looks like the one in my signature below (mine has the optional GCG anti surge holes) cheers

Abo Bob's problem is the dead spot between 3,250 rpm and 4,500 rpm, as can be seen in the UAS dyno graph. It is killing his ET and TS, hence not representative of his true 256 rwkw potential. cheers

Obviously an SAFC isn't going to fix fuel cut as it DOESN'T EXIST. If you are refering to the SAFC lowering the AFM voltage to the ECU such that the ECU doesn't go to R&R Mapping, then you need to have the SAFC tuned some more. cheers

Standard ECU? If so, my guess would be R&R Mapping at work. Time for a tune, your choice rechip the R32 ECU or a Power FC. cheers

There is no such thing as fuel cut on Skylines. Do a search "Sydneykid" "+rich+retard+mapping" "Any date" cheers

Sounds about right, on a 3.1 litre it's around 4,250 rpm. cheers

That's pretty low, at that height the camber goes a bit all over the place, 1.75 degrees one side and 2.25 degrees the other is not so bad a difference (I have seen worse). The standard adjusters are good for around 0.25 degrees of adjustment. So you should be able to get the cambers a bit closer together using them. ie; take some off the side with 2.25 and add some to the 1.75. Although 1.75 is already too much. My recommendation would be to get some an adjustable camber kit for the rear and most likely one for the front as well. This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard; Standard (new) height is 390/385 mm front and 280/375 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits Details are in the Group buy thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85592 Hope that was of some help cheers

Refer to the Stagea Suspension thread for a response. cheers

First job is to measure the height, centre of wheel to guard is the suspension industry standard; This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard; Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits Refer to the Group Buy thread for prioces and other details http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers

Yep, 125 4wkw on the standard turbo and 160 rwkw on a GCG high flow sounds somewhat logical. That’s why I would like to see the A/F ratios on one with 200 4wkw and a high flow. The extra 40 4wkw is very interesting and has to come from somewhere. cheers .

There is no magic in pistons, no secret formulas that disobey the laws of metallurgy. If W brand piston has X alloy mix it then it will expand at EXACTLY the same rate as Z brand piston with the same alloy mix. It doesn’t matter where it is made or who made it. As usual with all things mechanical it is simply a compromise, in this case piston strength versus expansion rate. That is purely a factor of its metallurgy. So if you have a W brand piston that expands less than a Z brand piston, then the W brand piston is not as strong. More silicone makes the alloy brittle and less tolerant of detonation. OE cast pistons are typically 12% or so silicone content. More silicone means the piston has a lower rate of thermal expansion. Forged pistons are typically less than 1% silicone (2618 alloy for example), hence their higher inherent strength. But this means they expand more, so have to run higher clearances when cold. There are a number of different alloys used by piston manufacturers, but the fact is a 2618 alloy forged piston made by Tomei will expands EXACTLY the same as a 2618 alloy forged piston made by Mahle. So don’t look to the manufacturer for some form of magic, there isn’t any, look at what alloy they use and the clearances they recommend. cheers

Tuning LPG for WOT with an auto box for a 1/4 mile run is a piece of cake, try driving the car around everyday. That’s the real test. The XR6T LPG set up was basically still experimental, the gas injectors are several hundred dollars EACH. They have to be so big to control the gas pressure, plus the gas fittings to feed them, they won’t fit on most inlet manifolds. There are quite a few years of development left until LPG injectors are worthwhile considering, purely from a cost perspective, then there is the packaging aspect. As for the backfiring and freezing when cold, please tell me when you have found a “good system” because all the ones we have tried all suffer from at least one, and most from all of the symptoms. cheers

I have yet to see an aftermarket LPG system that doesn’t loose at least 15% in power. So I strongly suggest that you do the maths on your car, our R33GTST would look like this 205 rwkw + 60 kw losses = 265 kw 265 kw – 15% = 225 kw 225 kw – 60 kw losses = 165 rwkw That’s a 40 rwkw loss. Forget about the max power loss, that is minor compared to the driveability you loose. The throttle response is crap, the lag is much more noticeable. The idle is rough, it doesn’t like power steering, aircon and large electrical loads. Plus it will run like shit when it’s cold. All for a lousy $20 a week, it’s bad value for money in my opinion. cheers

So many possible answers, I don’t know where to start. It depends on who did the high flow, what they used, whether they used a new core or the original core, how much machining of the turbine and compressor covers was done, what size compressor and turbine were used. The bottom line is you will have to wait until you receive it, then you can make some informed decisions. Until then it’s all guess work. cheers

The next round of the NSW State Championship is on at Eastern Creek on 23/34 September. I strongly suggest that you go out there Sunday around lunch time and walk around the tyre suppliers. That’s where/when you will find the best used tyres from that race meeting. cheers PS; it’s the last round for this year, so don’t miss it.

R34GTT top feed injector on the left, R33GTST side feed injector in the middle and R32/33/34GTR and R32GTST top feed injector on the right. As you can see there is no way (economically) that an R33GTST injector could be used in an R34GTT or vice versa, ie they don’t fit the inlet manifold or the fuel rail. R34GTT and R33GTST injectors are 370 cc's, in a 6 cylinder that means ~370bhp 370 bhp = 265 kw 2wd losses are around 60 kw 265 kw - 60 = 205 rwkw cheers PS; the search button is your best friend, I seriouosy doubt that you will be able to think of a question that hasn't already been answered about Skylines on SAU.

There are role cages in Australia that are CAMS “approved” but not FIA “approved”. My understanding is FIA approval is only required for “International” Events held under the FIA regulations (ie; with an FIA Permit). So a JAF approved cage may be OK for “local” events (ie: held under a JAF Permit), but not OK for “International” events. The question you need to ask JAF “is the Cusco D1 Cusco D1 7 point cage approved for events run under FIA Permits” If they say yes, then you know it has FIA approval. If they say no, then it is only approved use in JAF events. Which is of course no use at all outside of Japan. cheers

My understanding is the rotating assembly, once mounted in the core, needs to be balanced on a fairly expensive (and highly accurate considering 150,000 rpm ) piece of machinery. From there on it’s a simple bolt on job for the compressor and turbine covers which have been machined to match the compressor and turbine. So not much time (money) to be saved as their is very little DIY. cheers