Sydneykid

You have asked 2 questions; 1. Is the turbo damaged? No idea, no way to tell, waste of time guessing. Take it to turbo workshop and have it checked. 2. HKS don’t publish compressor maps. Last time I bothered looking, there were 6 or 7 specifications of Garrett “T04E”. Outputs ranging from 350 bhp to around 500 bhp, so take your pick. cheers

Fantastic article, wasn’t it? Proven, real world testing that shows after pads and fluid, tyres and suspension upgrades are the best ways to increase braking performance. cheers

Sorry I don’t understand, are you saying that they would buy brakes but not suspension? cheers

Ah, copying the Gibson set up, well done. Any reason why you went so far forward with the ducting? cheers

Go round the corners faster and you don’t need to waste that sort of money on braking hardware. Spend the money on suspension and circuit driver training and I bet you do faster lap times. cheers

The RB26 inlet flow is pretty good, but the exhaust is a little bit less than ideal in proportion. So any work done on the inlet needs to be exceeded by improvements on the exhaust. Generally speaking carefully porting the inlet with a triple cut on the valve seats is sufficient. The exhaust needs the same, plus it could do with 1 mm larger valves if you are aiming for power in excess of 850 bhp. If your power target is under that (as most people’s is), then you simply need to know what you are doing as far as porting is concerned and then balance the results on the flow bench accordingly. cheers

Suggestions follow; 1. Tuning, tuning and knowing the limits and not exceeding them 2. Similar strength, but a 3 litre will make the same power at 20% lower RPM. 3. Around $150 from ProEngines (ACT), they are on this forum cheers

Where do you have the SAFC knock sensor wiring connected? At the sensor? OR At the ECU plug? Either way, the problem is cross talk getting into the SAFC knock amp. That’s why you need “trim” out the background noise. Then you will see only true knock readings. cheers

Bit hard to say exactly, because the standard, old, soft, rubber bushes get distorted when the car is excessively lowered. So just removing the distortion reduces the negative camber. In addition the excessive lowering causes toe changes, which need to be corrected as well. Plus every car is different, of course. Usually 1 rear kit does a minimum of 0.75 degrees, but I have seen over 1 degree due to the above factors. The 2 rear kits are good for 1.5 degrees to a bit over 2 degrees for the same reasons. The front is similar with a minimum of 0.75 degrees, but I have seen over 1.2 degrees on ridiculously lowered cars. As far as bushes compared to adjustable arms, all of the brands of upper control arms that I have measured (Noltec, Nismo, Ikeya, Cusco, Nismo etc) all stop at the same lengths. So choosing one brand over another to get more or less negative camber is pretty much a waste of time. The geometry of the suspension ultimately determines how much adjustment can be made. cheers

What fuel lines are we talking about? The steel ones? I don't believe ethanol has any affect whatsoever on steel. The synthetic rubber ones? On the R33GTST that’s 5 really short pieces that are easily accessible; Tanks/pump outlet to steel line Steel line to fuel filter Fuel filter to fuel rail Fuel pressure regulator to steel line Steel line to tank return When I checked the fuel filter I removed #2 and #3. Any corrosion would show up as softness, loss of rigidity and thinner wall thickness. That’s a no to all three. Any flaking would show up as pieces trapped in the fuel filter. That’s a no to that one as well. I have also removed, flushed and cleaned the injectors, plus I checked their flow and compared it to before we started using Optimax Extreme. Just in case something snuck past the fuel filters. Or the injectors themselves were somehow corroded or damaged by the ethanol. As you might have guessed, that’s a no to that one as well. I haven’t measured the flow of the standard R33GTST fuel pump, but it still produces the same pressure (on the GReddy fuel pressure gauge) as it did before we started using Optimax Extreme. So that would indicate to me that some 2,000 litres of Optimax Extreme has had zero effect on the fuel pump If I have forgotten anything that I should check, please let me know and I will gladly check it. I have asked Nissan why they won’t recommend ethanol, and the above were all the possible reasons they could give me. cheers

Time to learn how to use the search feature, try; "Sydneykid" "Extreme" "Any date" cheers

I get really sick of hearing this crap, the truth is you if you rev the 3 litre to the same rpm as the 2.5 litre then the 3 litre will make 20% MORE power. Look at it the other way, you can use 20% LESS RPM and make the SAME power. For example an RB25 that needs 9,000 rpm to make its power target compared to an RB30 that will make the SAME power target at 7,200 rpm. Higher RPM costs more money, more money to build it , more money in diff and gearbox ratio changes, more money in more frequent rebuilds etc etc. For the one millionth time boost is IRRELEVANT. Airflow makes horsepower, boost is simply a measure of resistance to airflow. A 3 litre flows 20% more air at the same RPM as a 2.5 litre. That means you CAN have lower boost and make more power. Try them facts out on your engine builders cheers

I assume everybody has read my posts on using Optimax Extreme 100 ron in the R33GTST for the last 8 months (35 tank fills) or so. It is 5% ethanol and I have seen ZERO effect on any of the components, that’s injectors, hoses, fuel pumps, fuel filters etc are all perfect. All I see is more power and less knock. I seriously doubt that 10% ethanol would have any effect on the components either. But it is easy to check for, stick a new fuel filter on and use the 10% ethanol continuously for a while, say a month, 5 or 6 tank fulls. Then remove the fuel filter, cut it open and check for foreign matter. If there isn’t any, then I’d say you have no problems. cheers

No problems, just PM me when you are ready to go. cheers

My understanding is that a production run has been completed on Skyline springs, but they are not yet at the Whiteline warehouse. They are expected this week. Cheers

My understanding is that once the VG30 and R34GTT turbine covers are machined out for the GCG (high flow) turbine they are exactly the same. cheers

Nope, all the exhaust gas has to go though the first turbo ie no wastegate control on that turbo. Take a look at the stupid exhaust manifold and complex plumbing on atwin turbo 13B or JZ. It simply isn't worth the hassle. cheers

I edited it again to clarify, I thought the "Gain from changing turbine cover and tuning = 13 rwkw" told the story but it now reads a bit easier. cheers PS, my problem is so many posts and such slow typing speed.

I would only use the Q45 AFM when I needed the extra resolution for the extra power output. They don't meter as well as the Z32 at low airflows. So if you don't need the big airflow, use the Z32. The car will run nicer and get better fuel economy, plus it will be a damn side easier to tune. cheers

Sorry, trying to type too fast I have fixed the original post, I think that answers your question. 1.3 and 1.4 bar respectively. Dropped from 1.5 bar when we ported the cylinder head, less restrictions = more power at lower boost cheers

I was involved in a number of refinery consolidations a few years ago, where the oil companies agreed to close down their unprofitable small refineries. They instituted an agreement called Refinery Sharing, where they swap supply depending on which company has a refinery in that area. Transporting millions of litres of fue lis not very profitable plus the Commonwealth and State Governments didn't want 1,000's of fuel tankers driving up and down the highways. Refinery Sharing in action, the Caltex in Vic is made by Mobil and the Mobil is Sydney is made by Caltex. cheers

No cheers

Since you live in Vic, your Mobil comes from Mobil's own refinery at Altona. They also make all Caltex and some BP there. In fact the Altona refinery makes about 50% of Vic's fuel, so you could pretty safely say the only petrol that's not Mobil in Vic is Shell (they have a refinery in Geelong). cheers

No problems, I just take the orders, Jamex does the hard work. cheers

Several PM's sent, I know I lost a few when Prank was doing the update. Another PM sent, please let me know if you haven't received it. cheers PS; the Pulsar stabiliser bar has been ordered from Whiteline, should be ready very soon.