Sydneykid

Bushes are in stock at Whiteline. Stabiliser bars take 4-5 working days to make as Whiteline don"t carry stock. Plus the Group Buy bars have "special" features PM me for details cheers

Yep, both front and rear shocks are currently available. PM me for details cheers

PM sent cheers

My first guess would be a combination of toe and camber. So the first job is to get the alignment checked/adjusted. The diiff is not in the centre of the car, so measuring from the diff to the wheels is useless. ie; the drive shafts are different lengths. If you want to check the rear cradle alignment then make sure that each of the 4 chassis studs is located in the middle of the subframe bushes. If not, then loosen the 4 nuts and move the subframe around till they are. A pinch bar or a really long screw driver usually does the job. cheers

You need to add the revenue from; the CAMS State rounds 2 per year = $80K the CAMS National rounds = $50K the Historic State rounds 3 per year = $60K the Historic National rounds 1 per year = $40K the V8 development series round =$100K You would want at least a 3% return on your investment after interest and tax (+ property always has capital gains) $8M X 3% = $240K - Maybe $12M X 3% = $360K - No chance $15M X 3% = $450K - I don't think so Tim. cheers

Waste of time and money cheers

They are slow, but they will get to you eventually, they are not set up to answer questions, especially technical ones. They are simply a reseller, they don't really have stock, they just source whatever you order, once you have paid for it. Personally I never bother emailing them with questions. I just order what I want, pay the money and it always turns up. cheers

Standard new speedo is ~3-4% optimistic (shows higher speed than car is actually doing) with brand new tyres. Bald tyres makes the speedo a further 4-5% optimistic. So your 6% optimistic is pretty much right on the money. Optimistic means lower gearing, hence faster accelerating, not that you would notice. cheers

Wow, this is going to be a guessing competition. Rich running is either too much fuel or not enough air. My first guess would be the AFM/wiring, check the linearity of the AFM voltage at the ECU. It should be smooth/progressive as you increase the engine load. My second guess would be to agree with Dunk, check the linearity of the TPS voltage. It should be smooth/progressive as you open the throttle. Third guess, air leak somewhere after the AFM and before the inlet valves. More air is being measured (by the AFM) than is actually getting into the engine Last guess is excessive fuel pressure, maybe the return line is blocked or the FPR failed. A quick check of the fuel pressure should reveal all. Please let us know what you find cheers

Car - Landed, complied, registered & insured - $16,000 R33GTR wheels & tyres- $1,400 Stereo (Nakamichi, Soundstream, MB Quart) – kept from a previous car DAYZ side skirts - $400 (not yet painted & fitted) Pipercross panel filter – left over from previous car Radiator shield & ambient air scoop – self made (currently on loan to Bass Junky) Clear Side indicators - $70 Whiteline/Bilstein full suspension kit (of course) - $2,400 Tow Bar - $600 DFA, SITC, IEBC, Controller - $450 R34GTT intercooler - $130 Dyno Tunes - $140 Cat back Exhaust – left over from R32GTST Cat – Magic $200 Split dump & engine pipe (Performance Metalcraft) – left over from R32GTST Transmission cooler - $150 DBA 400 series rotors - ~$500 (I can’t remember) Left to do – Paint and fit DAYZ side skirts - $200 Tint front windows and tailgate - $80 GCG Ball Bearing High flow turbo – left over from R32GTST Damn, I am not going to add that up, I don’t wanna know. cheers

PM sent cheers

You comments are pretty much what I have experienced, the difficulty with the MPS3 is the lack of front wheel drive traction under power. To overcome it, Mazda have tuned the traction control to limit the power, so that it APPEARS not to power understeer. The problem is, this makes it slower than the quoted power figure would indicate whenever the traction control intervenes. So when I jumped on the throttle to drive it out of a corner (and get some speed coming onto the straight) the ECU would cut the power by half and it would be slow until it gained some traction. This would then affect the speed all the way down the straight. Personally, if I buy a car with 190 kw I want it to be able to use that 190 kw whenever I want. Not when the ECU thinks it’s OK for me to have 190 kw. The truth is 190 kw is too much for a front wheel drive, road car. cheers PS, it’s much, much worse in the rain, when repmobiles easily drag you off (very embarrassing).

No matter what duration and lift cams you use, RB26 cylinder heads ALWAYS need work. The combustion chamber volumes are never equal, the ports always flow differently and they are undersized (particularly) the exhaust ports. So don’t let the need for headwork limit your choices, you should do it anyway. cheers

There area limited number of rear Bilsteins in stock, so move quickly or you will miss out. No production planned at Bilstein Germany until after Xmas. cheers

There area limited number of rear Bilsteins in stock, so move quickly or you will miss out. No production planned at Bilstein Germany until after Xmas. cheers

Springs and shocks currently in stock, not many shocks though so don't delay. cheers

PM sent cheers

PM Sent cheers

If someone has a contact number for Mick, please let me know as I would like to talk to him. Cheers

Front stabiliser bars on 4wd's are different to the front stabiliser bars on 2wd's. This is because the front subframe is in a different place on the chassis. cheers

I plastic bag mine and store them under the house, even temperature and zero sunlight. I keep them inflated, usually around 16 psi, which is the starting pressure, generally I end up lowering it as the racing goes on. Have been down to 12 psi. Usually a biggish burn out to start the day, then not so big ones after that. Depends a bit on the ambient temperature. cheers

Still need a couple of sets particularly R32GTR, R32GTS4 and R32GTST rear strut tops. I will pay the going rate for them. Cheers

My experience has been that there is no consistency, at low airflows they seem to run leaner but at mid range airflows (boost building plus a bit) they run richer. Then at high rpm they go lean again. It also seems to depend on why it is dirty, 100% oil is a better insulator than oil contaminated with dirt/dust. The true sign of as dirty AFM is inconsistent and non linear readings. For example rev it to 2,000 rpm and it shows 3 volts, then the next time you rev it to 2,000 rpm it shows 1.7 volts. Or rev it to 3,000 rpm and it still shows 2 volts. That’s how I pick a dirty AFM. cheers

Some things to think about; 1. The standard coil packs are designed by Nissan to live in their environment ie; Nissan knows the temperatures between the cam covers. 2. Nissan (and all the other car manufacturers) went away from remote mounting coils for reliability issues. 3. If you mount coils designed for chassis mounting on a vibrating engine, they will fail. 4. If you mount the coils on the chassis, then the leads will flex as the engine twists and they will fail. 5. If you use coils designed for vibration mounting and mount them on the engine, they will be subject to the same (if not higher) temperature variations than the standard oils. 6. The temperature between the cams (where the standard coils are) is controlled by the water flowing though the water jackets of the surrounding cylinder head. This means an even temperature once the engine is warmed up. 7. Remote mounted coils on say the firewall at the rear of the engine, are subject to far greater temperature variations. This is not good for the life of a coil. 8. Using a coil pack designed for an engine that revs to 5,000 rpm on an engine that revs to 7,500 rpm is asking for high rpm misfire. 9. Do you really think a Ford designed coil is going to work better on an RB than a Nissan designed coil? Why is a Ford coil set $70 and a Nissan coil set $490? Is it possible that the Nisan coil packs might just happen to be 7 times better? People blame coil packs for all sorts of misfire problems, when the truth is the standard coil pack is a very reliable and efficient device. cheers

Standard pressure is 36-38 psi (plus or minus boost) that’s ~250 kpa 350 kpa is 51 psi, which would indicate 100kpa (13-15 psi) vacuum at idle, which is unlikely. 450 kpa is 65 psi which is the maximum pressure rating of an R33GTST standard fuel pump at 11-12 volts. So I wouldn't be looking to the fuel pump as your problem, based on the idling pressure (51 psi) I would be more suspicious of the fuel pressure regulator or a blockage in the return line to the tank. cheers