Sydneykid

PM sent cheers

PM sent cheers

PM sent cheers

Hi Eug, I obviously told you those settings based on what told me that you have done to the car and what you use it for. Do you want to go though it again? cheers

That's a good solution if blow by is a problem. But that's got zero to do with the fact that the head has insufficient oil return capacity for sustained high rpm. Venting the sump does nothing for that problem. The oil return is best done to the LHS of the sump. Since the crank turns clockwise, that means the oil is returning into the partial vacuum created by the crank rotation. Hence the oil flows intro the sump. Oil level nothwithstanding. cheers

Sorry for the delay, I haven't been at my home office PC since last Thursday. Not too bad; Rears are 185 lbs per inch (3.3 kg/mm) Fronts are 245 lbs per inch (4.4 kg/mm) Cheers

135 lbs per inch (2.4 kg/mm) if it 9.5 turns and 125 lbs per inch (2.2kg/mm) if its 10 turns. Cheers

Depending on your power target , you might want to consider a third option. Get your standard ECU chipped and tuned. Then I would consider a "normal" Power FC. cheers

PM on its way cheers

Sorry, I am not at my engineering computer, I will do it as soon as I get home tonight. cheers

Good....where's the Foxtel petition, I'll sign it. cheers

My observations from the pits; 1. Farkin pace car, damn thing did more laps than most of the field. 2. Speaking of the field, what’s this crap of only starting 31 cars? What happened to 55 cars, now that was a decent sized field for a 6k track and 161 laps 3. Note to Avesco, it’s DAMN boring staring at an EMPTY track for minutes at time when there are only 16 cars running. Wake up you gooses some of us don't need that much beer drinking time. 4. Farkin pace car only comes out when CH10 needs an ad break 5. Watching a V8 SuperCar stagger down the pit road at 40 kph is as boring as bat shit. All the accidents in pit lane happen at less than walking pace, so a 40 kph limit is a STUPID waste of time, doesn’t actually achieve anything. Get real fools. 6. Speed limiting them to less than their idle speed in 1st gear is asking for trouble. With the 3.15 diff they run at Bathurst they don’t even idle at 40 kph. Note how many cars pulled out with engine misfires? That’s V8 speak for broken valve train.(don’t tell anyone). 7. Farkin pace car ruins a perfectly good race, just when it is getting interesting they call for intermission. It’s not the movies you know. 8. Can’t you idiot officials work out that the pace car is supposed to pick up the race leader. Anyone in front of the race leader is supposed to be let go around and join the tail of the field. Cost us 2 laps you wankers. 9. Children shouldn’t be let loose in a V8 SuperCar, no matter who their father is/was. If you can’t vote, you can’t race at Bathurst. 10. The pace car is for convenience use only, when the race is on the line and there are 3 laps left, they PARK the pace car. WHAT THE? What’s dangerous (and needs a pace car) at lap 100 is suddenly not so dangerous (and doesn’t need a pace car) at lap 159. Nicely avoided the embarrassment of finishing the race under pace conditions. VERY convenient you tools. 11. What this single file behind the pace car shit? We had 2 drivers with obvious signs of carbon monoxide poisoning from trundling around behind the pace car in single file for lap after lap. Smart move you idiots. 12. Did I mention the farkin pace car? The only good thing is, it means that the R32GTR race record will NEVER be broken. cheers

Ch 7 and Ch 9 are also doing their own campaigns to keep the antisiphoning laws. I have a full set of cable Foxtel channels including Foxsports 1, Foxsports 2, Foxsports 3, ESPN, Foxsports News, Eurosports and Fuel. Plenty of motorsport choices on there, so the Foxtel IQ (hard drive) recorder sure gets a workout. So personally I don't a shit about FTA losing sporting events. Anyway it's just full of endless, mind numbing, repetition of the same advertisments for stuff that I don't want. How many times do I need to see the same flaming add? I GET IT, OK? I am sure that's why we have those stupid Pace Car periods, so the FTA channels can go to an add break. cheers

Do you have R32GTST or R32GTR? Because the current kit won't fit R32GTST's, Caz is currently working on a new kit for them. cheers

The more cars I tune myself, the more I become convinced that road tuning is essential. It is simply impossible to duplicate all of the conditions that you get on the road on the dyno. Plus (even if you could) it would cost a fortune to do a full tune on the dyno as it would involve hours and hours. Let me give you a racing example. The V8 Supercar team I was with at Bathurst last week tune each and every one of their engines individually on an engine dyno over several days each. What they end up with is a PERFECT tune, for the dyno room in those conditions. When the car arrived at Bathurst the very FIRST thing the engine tuner did was check the lambda readings on the telemetry over the first 5 or so installation laps at the circuit. Then he made some adjustments to correct for altitude and atmospheric conditions. The drivers reported no noticeable increase in power (the telemetry showed no increase in acceleration as well) but they noticed improved driveability (eg; throttle response). He also spent a little time trimming the fuel economy to try and save time in the pits, refuelling. Exactly the same logic applies to a road car tuned for driveablity and economy. Tuning for power on the dyno is the best method, but that is only one of the things that REAL tuning means. So I will continue to do what I do now, tune the cars on the road (or the track) for power, response, driveability and economy. Then stick it on the dyno and fine tune the power. cheers

Already on the case, started tuning for the new brew last week on the way to the airport to catch the plane to Bathurst. On that same subject, I have been retuning the PFC in the R33GTST after we did SOME headwork on it (porting, larger exhaust valves and combustion chamber polish). I can’t believe how much ignition advance I can now add, in some places I have advanced it 15 to 18 degrees from the default settings. It is using load points now that it simply could reach before, particularly around 3,000 to 4,000 rpm. As for fuel tuning, I am now starting to run out of injector duration and it is still a bit leaner than I would prefer. Maybe time to fit the Nismo adj fuel pressure regulator and the GTR fuel pump. What I have noticed while tuning with Optimax Extreme is that it misfires when the ignition is too retarded. It misfires when the ignition is too advanced. It misfires when it is too lean. It misfires when it is too rich. When you get the tune close, the misfiring stops and it goes GOOD. Keeping the above in mind, any retuning for V Power should be obvious. cheers

Glad to see you got the results Faid, just shows what is possible if you are prepared to go though the processes. A ~400 rpm improvement in boost build is always worth spending some time on. cheers PS; I like that "move like a donkey, then run like a cheetah" I am gunna use that for sure.

So what, I was at Philip Island 3 weeks ago and our production STi was 4 seconds quicker than the fastest 997. Of course it was pissing down, but that doesn't matter. On the day all of the Porkas got destroyed by a "standard" Sti. cheers

Keep in mind that the additional circlip grooves on the Group Buy Bilsteins enable 50 mm of height adjustment. Dark's R33 has been set on what looks like 355 mm front and 345 mm rear, which is the best height for handling and ride comfort. cheers

PM sent cheers

Use an R33 speedo sensor, they are electonic. You may have to change the frequency to suite the BMW speedo, Jaycar have a kit for that. cheers

11.8 - 11.9 is fine, perfectly safe, just watch the knock, stay under 20. You will get a bit out of the cam tiiming, but the resulting ignition timing that you can run is the big winner. Don't be afraid to throw plenty of degrees at it, 5 - 10 degrees is common. On the R33GTST, I moved the off boost up 18 degrees in some places. cheers

You don't have to do 600 shock dyno runs, you would boil the fluid anyway, as it takes a long time to cool down after each run. We usually do 3 or 4 runs, adjusting both bump and rebound at the same time. One each on max and min and one or two with the middle settings. That gives you an idea of the overall shape of the valving and the effective range of damping from the adjusters. I have never seen a dyno graph with every possible adjustment, it doesn't really tell you anything. The $300 seems a bit rich, that's $75 per shock. Unless they don't have Skyline fittings for the shock dyno and are charging for making them up. Or they are charging for standing around while the shock fluid cools after each run. Who was that through? If you have a bunch of settings (bars, alignment, spring rates) that you usually use for OP, then best to run through the shock testing as I outlined above with those settings in place. The usual rule (adjust one thing at a time) applies. cheers

1. I understood it to open as you apply duty cycle ie. 100% = open 0% = closed 2. I asked because I noticed that you were aiming for approx 60% duty cycle instead of 100%. That may bring back the slight surging you felt on the freeway when you needed a little throttle uphill. It would reduce your resolution by limiting the duty cycle to 60%. 3. I guess what I am asking is why do you wish to limit it to 60% PS I think you have spent more time answering questions than it took to build, install and test the unit. 1. You got it. Most of the time I drive around on zero boost, so the solenoid is closed. 2. The surging was due to the R&R mapping of the ECU, tuning the SAFC fixed it 3. The 60% was the suggested target by SC, the idea being it gives you room to move up or down. If you are already at say 90%, then you don't have much room to move. BTW I am still running that table I posted last year (lots of 90% in there). cheers

I have learnt (the hard way) not to guess spring rates. It's also a bit hard to see the wire diameter and 1 mm either way makes a big difference. Ohlins make a good shock (in Sweden, not Japan) so they should be excellent. The best way to check would be to stick them on the shock dyno before you use them and have a good look at their damping curves. It's easy to pick the quality of the damping and it would also help with establishing a base line (where to start with the adjustments). I know that you know this, but for other readers.............be very careful that you are not setting yourself up for an impossible task. Tuning double adjustable shocks is not simple, you can easily end up going around in circles and end up with worse than you have now. Make sure that you put aside a test day just for getting to know what the shock adjustment does. Get a feel for what it feels like with minimum and maximum settings for both bump and rebound damping, When I am training a new team (drivers and crew), I go through a sequence so that the driver can feel the differences and articulate those feelings to the crew. I usually start off with everything on minimum, tell the driver what settings I have used and then get them to do a few laps, then debrief. Everything on maximum, another few laps, debrief. Front on minimum rear on maximum etc etc. Work though the 4 possible min/max settings. Then I do a blind test, don’t tell them what I have done and see if they can feel the settings. Then we go through the processes of achieving the best settings for that car on that day. With a crew of 5 and 1 driver that process usually takes the best part of a full day. That’s without getting into stabiliser bar settings, wheel alignment or spring rate changes. They just complicate the proceedings 10 fold. So the usual warning, don’t go down this path (of adjustable shocks) unless you are capable of feeling for the right settings and are prepared to spend the time and money learning how to achieve them. cheers