Sydneykid

Yep, PM sent cheers

Hi Lee, sorry that the PM inbox was full, I received more than 100 PM's over the weekend. The turbo for high flowing had a cracked turbine cover. I have been searching for a replacement, success today, one is one its way to GCG. cheers

When you put the Whiteline springs in using GAB shocks you SHOULD end up at around 345 mm front and 340 mm rear. Every car is different though. That wil settle around 5 mm after 1,000ks or so. cheers

The top rubbers are worth around 10 mm. The most common issue is excessive camber, what sort of camber is it running, front and rear. cheers

Hi Shaun, I have seen heaps of different results. The problem is RB20's are geting on now and their condition varies considerably. So keep that in mind when deciding on your power target. The most common power output is around 225 rwkw at 1.3 bar. I have seen as high as 250 rwkw at 1.2 bar, but that engine was reasonably fresh and had cams. No head work though. The advantage of the RB20 compressor cover on a high flow is that it will allow the development of power lower in the rpm range than the larger RB25 cover. Something that the RB20 can certainly do with. cheers

Time for me to weigh into this discussion. In Production Car racing we are not allowed to change the stabiliser bars. So we use the shocks to limit the roll. It would be better to use larger stabiliser bars, but we can’t, so we do what we legally can. We could limit the roll with high spring rates (like the Japs do) but then the springs would be too stiff to absorb the bumps. So we use spring to do their REAL job, that being to hold the car up and absorb the bumps. This is why excessive low frequency bump valving is the chosen band aid. But it is still a BAND AID, it would be technically superior if we could upgrade the anti roll and leave the shocks to do their REAL job. Dampening the spring and chassis oscillations It is overly simplistic to suggest that stabiliser bars reduce grip. In fact it’s 100% rubbish when you look at both ends of the car at the same time. Let’s use the GTR example, they understeer in mid corner because they transfer excessive weight (which they have lots of) onto the outside front tyre. If I use a largish rear stabiliser bar I lessen the amount of weight transfer onto that outside front tyre. The reduced roll means the inside front tyre has more weight on it, hence more traction and therefore less understeer. The larger rear stabiliser bar has not REDUCED the rear grip, it has INCREASED the front grip. Sure you can go too far with stabiliser bars and reduce the grip at that end. But if you are increasing the grip at the other end by more, then the total grip is increased. Hence you get higher cornering speeds. Which is what improving handling is all about. Almost all race cars, even up to F1 level, use driver adjustable stabiliser bars. Why? Because they are the most effective method of changing the handling balance. Stabiliser bars are the best bang for buck suspension upgrade you can make for improved handling. Road or track. That’s a fact. cheers

Hi All I require, with some urgency, one, two, three or four SPARCO NT 17 x 9 +22 offset I don't care about colour, and if they different offsets, widths... They look like this PM or call Matt on 0418 432 857 Will pay what I have to, tyres not required, will pick up from anywhere in Australia (prefer Sydney though). Will also trade for suspension... Do you good deal.... Cheers Matt

Thanks guys and gals for the kind comments, I haven’t read them all as it would be embarrassing. Please keep in mind that I learn as much as I impart here on SAU, so it’s a true 2 way flow of information. For interested readers I should fill you in on the situation. The build of 7 x RB30s was scheduled to coincide with a slow period in our racing calendar. Unfortunately we were let down by one of our supplies, of course a monopoly. Consequently we had no choice but to wait for that supplier to come good. When the parts finally arrived several weeks late, the RB30 build then clashed with our annual boat racing engine schedule, where we have 6 x 2,500 bhp supercharged methanol burning race boat engines to rebuild for the coming season. This is contracted annual work, it cannot be delayed, the race season starts whether or not we have finished the rebuilds. So the RB30 engine builds had to wait. As a few of you know, I got an emergency call to go to Bathurst with a V8Supercar team only 2 weeks before the race. So that put me out of contact for a long period of time, during which I received some 500 emails and PM’s. Under normal circumstances SOSK would help by responding to the easier/straight forward ones. This didn’t happen on this occasion as he has glandular fever and has been off work for 2 weeks. Hence Felix and many other guys only received replies to their emails and PM’s recently. I appologise for the delay and ask for understanding. Things are now getting back to some semblance of order and the build of the RB30’s is progressing along very rapidly, so Felix will have his engine shortly. I fact I will be at the machine shop tomorrow (Saturday) to take some pictures of the final assembly for him. Thanks again for the support and whenever and wherever we catch up, remember the Jack Daniels is on you PS; As many have noticed, the pictures below of my own RB30 were taken some 6 weeks ago, and it hasn't progressed one little bit since. So Felix and the other guys can rest safe in the knowledge that I haven't been spending my time on my own engine and ignoring their's.

40 thou = 1 mm. Standard bore is 86 mm, so that's 87 mm, which is quite common. As long as you aren't intending to use 11,000 rpm and 3 bar of boost. 87 mm is OK. cheers

Nope, they are painted on cheers

Another PM sent cheers

Following numerous requests I have arranged a Group Buy on GCG Ball Bearing high flow turbos for RB20’s as found in R32GTST and R32GTS4. The kit comes with all the necessary gaskets and seals to fit the high flow turbo in place of your standard turbo. No extra parts to buy or make, just bolt it on. The price is $1750 including freight, this is a $300+ saving on the normal price. The process is that you deposit the $1750 into the following account at the time of order; Account Name Jamex Australia Bank StGeorge Bank BSB 332-086 Account No 551029694 PM me the transfer receipt number and we are underway. This is the same company that organised the highly successful Group Buy on the Whiteline and Bilstein suspension. Jamex will arrange for GCG to build the high flow, which takes 2-3 working days. When the turbo is ready I will PM you and you can then send your standard turbo to Jamex. Once they receive it they will send your high flow to you overnight via Toll Priority. I will PM you the con note number as soon as Jamex issues it that way you can track the delivery on the Toll web site. This means your car will be off the road for 2-3 days max. Ideal if you want to pull your turbo off on Sunday and put the new one on the next Saturday. We only have a limited number of RB20DET turbos to get high flowed at any one time. So make sure that you PM your receipt number immediately to avoid any delays. If you can’t afford to be without your car, you can pay a $500 security deposit at the time of order. The GCG Ball Bearing high flow turbo will be sent to you straight away. This means you can remove the old turbo and replace it on the same day. When Jamex receives your standard turbo, the $500 deposit will be refunded to your account. Please note that there is a separate Group Buy for RB25DET turbos. cheers

The Group Buy Bilsteins have additional circlip grooves, so you can select the height you want. cheers PS. 330 mm is too low for good handling and ride comfort

Another PM reply sent. I reply to EVERY single PM, eventually. I get 30 or so PM's every day, so obviously I can't reply instantly to every one. cheers

If the plugs are old or gapped wide (more than 0.8mm), then chances are you have fouled them with the R&R running. Stop the R&R and the misfiring will stop. The most common problem on IEBC’s I find is that guys put the vent in the wrong place . Where have you got the vent placed? It should be between the T piece and the inlet pipe to the turbo, after the AFM. Not between the solenoid and the T piece. Not between the T piece and the wastegate actuator. Not between the boost supply (inlet pipe to the engine) and the solenoid. Cheers

Hi, not on the dyno, I am road tuning it. At the moment, with the standard turbo, I have 10 psi at ~2,000 rpm because of the ignition advance I can use, +18 degrees (compared ot the default maps) at many load points. As a result the response is lightning fast. As for ecomomy, it happily runs 15.1 to 1 A/F ratios at cruise (open loop), with absolutely zero hesitiation or surge. So I can confidenmtly change the lambda aim table when I turn closed loop back on. cheers

Do a search “Sydneykid”, Walbro” and “any date”. I have posted up the test results of what happens to the flow of a Walbro pump when it has to pump against boost pressure. cheers

Yes, but it has 0.5 bar of sucking (vacuum) helping the injectors flow. Hence the "real" pressure is 3.0 bar. The 3.0 bar is the pressure differential between the fuel rail and the inlet port. As usual the numbers tell the story; 2.5 - -0.5 = 3.0 The 3.0 bar is the pressure differential between the fuel rail (2.5) and the inlet port (-0.5). Same applies when there is boost in the inlet port, except boost is a "+" of course 4.0 - + 1.0 = 3.0 The 3.0 bar is the pressure differential between the fuel rail (4.0) and the inlet port (1.0). cheers

Nissan (and Nismo) know that the RB produces 0.5 bar at idle, hence they can specify 2.5 + 0.5 = 3.0. Sard, Apexi, HKS only know what their injectors flow at 3.0 bar, so that's the only number that they can specify. Keep in mind that Jecs make Nissan annd Nismo injectors and Denso make pretty much everything else. Real world proof, if I stick a 550 cc Nismo injector on the flow bench at 3.0 bar and compare it with a 550 cc Sard injector at 3.0 bar, I end up with pretty much the same flow rates (ie; ~550 cc per minute). There are exceptions, Rochester for example. cheers

2.5 bar rail pressure plus the normal 0.5 bar vacuum at idle = 3.0 bar cheers

Beat me to it Paul, so all I can do is add for GeeTR's benefit. I am not sure how a hobbs switch is going to facilitate an injection correction table based on boost and air temp. Let alone boost and water temp. Or ignition correction. That's why I use the PFC BCK. Otherwise I have to buy ANOTHER Map sensor and plumb/wire it up. You can't simply parallel up the outputs from the stand alone EBC's MAP sensor, it upsets the voltages. Interesting side note, I had a car the other day with really crappy boost control plus it was difficult to tune, more than just the boost variations. On investigation I found it had 4 map sensors all T’d into the fuel pressure regulator vacuum supply. 1. Standard map sensor for the dash 2. Aftermarket map sensor for the ECU, with a really long vacuum hose going into the cabin and plugged into the ECU itself 3. Aftermarket boost gauge map sensor 4. Aftermarket EBC map sensor also with a long vacuum hose to the firewall where the MAP sensor was mounted. There was so much air in the vacuum system that it was buffering the signals. Hence the EBC was getting slow response signals from its MAP sensor and the boost fluctuated as a result. The poor old fuel pressure regulator had to wait for the vacuum changes to equalise in all those hoses before it could correct the fuel pressure, hence the difficulty in tuning the A/F ratios. Tip, don’t T into the FPR vacuum feed for MAP sensor signals if you want stable fuel pressure. cheers

OK, he says puting his hand up, that would be me. Aftermarket injectors (eg; Nismo) designed for use with RB25’s use the standard Nissan fuel pressure, which is 34-36 psi (2.3 to 2.5 bar). Aftermarket injectors designed for use on other engines (that may or may not require adaptors to fit RB25’s) may or may not be specified for the same fuel pressure. Their operating and flow rating are specified. BUT (there is always a but) I have not found any injectors that use different fuel pressures that will fit RB25’s. So while you are right in theory, in the real world that is simply not the case. Plus I defy anyone to tell the difference in spray patterns between 2.5 and 3 bar base pressure. Remember injectors in turbo engines have to have good spray patterns at absolute pressures ranging from 2.0 to 6.0 bar (plus or minus vacuum and boost). So 0.5 bar is neither here nor there as far as their spray pattern is concerned. This is not always the case in injectors intended for N/A use however. Rochesters for example, like to have their specified fuel pressure at all times and don’t handle drastic increases or decreases. Back to the original question. With a perfect tune and an engine in perfect condition the standard injectors are OK for around 225’ish rwkw (300 rwhp). But I have only seen that once in over 50 R33GTST’s. The rest have dropped off from 205 rwkw (275 rwhp) onwards, with around 215 rwkw (290 rwhp) being the most common. An adjustable FPR (eg; Nismo bolt style $150 from Nengun) will facilitate an increase in fuel pressure. It isn’t linear though, a 10% increase in pressure doesn’t equal a 10% increase in flow. For example increasing the base pressure to say 46 psi (30%) enables the standard injectors to stretch to around 400 cc’s (up from 370 cc which is 8%). That’s enough for 235 rwkw (320 rwhp) which his about as far as I would recommend going. The fuel pressure gets too high for the standard size hoses and clamps and fuel fires are very nasty. Hence why I suggest replacing the 10 + year old fuel hoses with new ones. Plus Walbro pumps are not very good at handling pressure, their flow drops off rather dramatically. A spot 97% injector duty reading is not a very good indication, it may well have been 85% duty, plus 12% for acceleration enrichment. Try looking at the injector duty as you run up through the rpm range at WOT in 3rd and 4th gear (a passenger is handy for that). That is a far better indicator. The GCG high flow is good for around 265 rwkw (355 rwhp). So if you want to use the full potential of the turbo upgrade you really need to be looking at aftermarket injectors. Hope that was of some help cheers PS; if you had done a search you would have found all of the above written by me many, many times.

I did a quick add up of the emails and PM's that I have received this month. One re-occurring theme was knocking suspension arms and strut tops in S13’s, S14’s, S15’s and Skylines. I have had 14 guys (just this month) come to me asking how to fix the knocks, rattles and cracks caused by aftermarket suspension arms and strut tops using spherical bearings. The rush to adjustable arms over the last couple of years seems to have now resulted in a whole pile of cars with worn sphericals. My usual response is to strongly suggest that they put a set of adjustable polyurethane bushes in the standard arms and use the standard rubber bushes with the standard strut tops. The problem is a lot of the guys chucked out their standard arms when they bought the aftermarket ones. So if you just have to have adjustable arms, then please keep your standard ones. There’s a good chance that you will need them in 12 months or so. The import dismantlers are running out standard arms and strut tops and charging a small fortune for good ones. cheers

You haven't looked hard enough, GCG supplied GT3040 = 325 rwkw with 1 bar at 3,750 rpm. It's all in the tuning, spend $200 extra on that and save $1K on the turbo cheers

Not a good comparison, 2530's would get you up around 400 rwkw (not 300 rwkw). I think 2510's would be a better choice if 300 rwkw is your target. But having driven several GTR's with 2530's they would be my choice with around 350 4wkw. They make a NICE circuit car, perhaps why the Mines R34GTR has 2530's on it, as does the re-released Nismo R32 Ztune. cheers