Sydneykid

We have used the Pro Engines crank collars on 10 or so RB30's and not had a single problem. They are a good sweat fit on the crank and run tight tolerances (clearance) for the N1 oil pump drive flange. Excessive clearance/crank flange wear is one of the causes of oil pump rotor failure. cheers

The longer you wait the harder it is going to be to buy a Power FC. Have a look in the Stagea section and you will find my thread on using a DFA, SITC and IEBC on a Stagea. I have no R&R. cheers PS, the standard turbo won't last long at 12psi.

My first guess for the 12 psi to 11 psi would be that the standard turbo is running out of airflow, so it can't hold the boost. The 9 to 8 would indicate otherwise, so my second guess would be a plumbing problem. Check the vacuum lines and keep them as short as possible, make sure that there are no leaks. cheers

Inside tyre wear on Skylines is usually caused by excessive lowering without camber correction. First job is to measure the heights, centre of wheel to guard and post them up. We can go from there. Cheers

Using Chevy rods is old school RB30 stuff, when you couldn't buy aftermarket RB30 conrods. By the time you pay for the machining and the bearings you could have bought specific RB30 aftermarket rods for less. cheers

Nope, my comment was simply in relation to atmospheric conditions for the dyno runs comparisons, not an add for DD. Based on the evidence supplied, my conclusioin is that this particular penum has poor distribution. If you have evidence to the contrary please post it up. I am willing and able to test ANY plenum at any time on the car and/or on the flow bench, plenty of guys have taken me up on that. So far I haven't found one single aftermarket plenum that makes higher average power on an RB25 cylinder head up to 300 rwkw. Please feel free to send me a plenum at any time and I will test it and publish the results. If it produces higher average power, then I will gladly pay you for it. If it produces lower average power then you can pay me for the labour to R&R it. Over to you cheers

S13's have a MacPherson strut front end, hence different movement and leverage ratios. So comparing spring rates with a double wishbone car is pointless. Cheers

Sounds like it needs decent tyres and suspension cheers

Suggestions follow; 1. No problem, orders over $500 aree freight free to anywhere in Australia 2. Yep, they have extra adjustment and on some models unique diameters 3. Nope, you can't buy Group Buy spec bars from anyone else 4. No problems, PM sent with details. cheers

PM sent cheers

My guess would be that there is not enough caster on the LHS front, causing drift to the gutter. This not unusual, the LHS front wheel is the one that hit the pot holes on the edge of the road and/or the gutter. So over time all cars gradualy loose caster from the LHS and start to drift to the left. Caster like front camber is not adjustable with standard components. An adjustable caster kit ($110 on the Group Buy) fixes that. I would also be concerned with the camber differential accross the car, there is limited camber adjustable standard on the rear (0.25 degrees). Perhaps as them if they have exhausted that adjustment. Is that is the case then a rear camber kit would be my suggestion ($123 on the Group Buy). This will fix the uneven tyre wear on the rear. For the front there is no standard camber adjustment, so a front camber kit would be my suggestion ($183 on the Group Buy). This will also fix the uneven tyre wear on the front. cheers

Sorta.......the original standard internals RB30 that I built in 1999 (last millenium, eeek) used an old T04E which is basically the same size as a GT3071, but without the later aerodynamics or balls. It makes (still) just a bit over 300 rwkw (475 bhp on the engine dyno) and I really like its performance envelope. It would benefit greatly from a turbo generation update and set of Poncams. cheers

For an R32GTR, use 29 kph per 1,000 rpm in 4th gear, it's close enough for dyno comparsons. Cheers

Having had this discussion before, I will summarise for the readers. At 5,500 rpm in 5th gear with the standard diff ratio the R32GTST will be doing ~205 kph with 245/40/17 tyres. Which I consider a more than high enough top speed for a road car. The speed/rpm in the other gears is a more matter of the standard gearbox ratios, which are not easily (cheaply) changed. So the issue is more to do with the turbo chosen rather than the gearing of the car. Personally for a standard internals RB30 I wouldn't be using a GT35R, something around the GT3071/76 would be a much better choice. That will give you a very decent power band from 3,000 to 5,500 rpm, which is more than enough for the standard gearbox ratios. Plus a much higher average power and, as a result, faster acceleration. Simply put, buying an aftermarket plenum costs extra money, selecting the right sized turbo doesn't. cheers

We have no idea of the comparable atmospheric conditions prevailing on the days that the dyno runs were performed. The dyno runs do not appear to have been carried out in Shoot Out mode by an accredited workshop, hence no atmospheric information is shown. All I have done in the previous post is to comment on the information as supplied. Remember that boost is simply a measure of resistance to airflow, lower boost should indicate less resistance. Which I am sure the proponents of aftermarket plenums would quickly lay claim to. Less resistance should lead to higher airflow and higher airflow means more power. Since we have been told that nothing else was changed, I can only conclude that the aftermarket plenum has less resistance but fails to turn that increased airflow into increased power. Based on the evidence I would maintain that this plenum, like all the others I have tested, has poor distribution which results in the lower power output. Hence the lower power output is not in fact due to lower boost, but due to poor distribution of the increased airflow. As is common, at higher rpm the aftermarket plenum's poor distrbution becomes less of a problem. cheers

Hi Ariel, "experts", I guess that would include me and I have most definitely "tried it", in fact several “its”. They all fail to produce higher average power levels on RB25DET's up to their limit of 7,250 rpm (equivalent airflow to 6,000 rpm in an RB30). Looking at the dyno graphs I see exactly the same result, lower average power up to 5,750 rpm. This means the standard plenum equipped engine would be faster accelerating from 3,000 rpm to 5,750 rpm in every gear than the aftermarket plenum equipped engine. Personally, on an RB30 with standard internals, I would much rather have my max power at 5,250 rpm (using the standard plenum), instead of 6,000 rpm (using an aftermarket plenum). After all higher rpm = shorter engine life. In summary, why should spend money I buy an aftermarket plenum that produces slower acceleration and wears my engine out faster? cheers

You posted this; I assumed; "map sensor" = the PFC BCK map sensor "EBC" = some other (no longer used) EBC If you have lots of vacuum tubing (and T pieces) between the plenum and the PFC BCK map sensor, you will get slow response to boost changes. Lots of air in there buffers the pressure changes, especially when you have a turbo that ramps up onto boost rediculously fast. So make the vacuum hose from the plenum to the BCK map sensor short and get rid of (or move) anything else on the same vacuum feed. Looking at the two boost curves (gizmo and BCK) I see the same waves. The gizmo looks better only because the scaling is smaller. Same problem then as you have now. It's an auto, so how are you locking up the torque converter? If you aren't locking up the torque converter, than that is the problem. Simplistically, when the turbo hits boost the torque converter unlocks, this releases the load from the engine and it produces less exhaust. Less exhaust means less boost, less boost means the torque converter locks up again, etc etc. When dynoing an auto, we always log the engine rpm, that way we can see the torque converter effects. cheers

You need to be carefull when using laser pyrometers, they measure the skin temperature (ie; the tread surface). This is affected by stuff like the run down pit lane. For example, if you have lots of negative camber, the skin on the inside of the tyre will stay hot while the skin on the outside will cool down rather rapidly. That's why race teams use probe style pyrometers which enable us to read the temperature just below the skin, which doesn't cool down as quickly. Regardless of which type of pyrometer you use, make sure that you don't slow down on the in lap if you want representative temperatures. Come it hot, then measure and then go out for a cool down lap. Cheers

PM sent cheers

What Paul suggested plus....... Since you aren't using the EBC, reduce the amount of vaccum tubing, it's just buffering the signal to the PFC map sensor. cheers

On the R33GTST S1.5 there are 2 white plastic clips that are located udner the headlights and hold the front bar on. Does anybody have any idea where I can get some new ones? cheers

It's up to Jamex, they had to buy another (stuffed/standard) turbo this week. One of the two exchange tubos has been out for 6 weeks wating to be fitted so that the standard turbo can be returned. It's risky only having one turbo in the rotation, as they found out when one exchange turned up with a cracked turbine housing. So they will be back up to 2 turbos in the rotation next week and that will be 3 when the slow one returns. My guess is you will be safe until Xmas. cheers

I assume we are talking about R3S04 & A3S04. On what grounds are they banned? They are a DOT approved radial road tyre, he could legally drive to the circuit on them, if he wanted to. Last rtime i checked they were on the CAMS approved tyres listing. Cheers

PM Sent cheers

I have seen RB26 combustion chambers vary between 63.8 cc's and 64.7 cc's. So 64.5 cc's is OK for a rough calculation, but you should carefully measure the actual head and each combustion chamber. Cheers