Sydneykid

I'm here, PM has been full a couple of times over the last few weeks. I just don't seem to be able to keep up. But there is some space available now, so get in while you can. cheers

The problem with GTR’s is that they are so god damn nose heavy. They work the front tyres hard under brakes. Then they are reluctant to turn in, so you work the front tyres hard up to the slip angle limit. Then they have mid corner push, which further raises the tyre skin temperature. On corner exit they transfer some power to the front wheels further increasing the load on them and exacerbating the tread overheat problem. So if you are using well worn tyres, there is simply not enough tread on the carcass and they overheat badly after only a couple of laps. A newer tyre (not a brand new tyre), by virtue of its increase ability to handle and dissipate heart, is far more capable of sustaining the desired line. Then we have the “R” type tyres, which are by design. able to handle higher temperatures. Plus they don’t generate as much heat due to their ability to handle more extreme slip angles. Tyre tread overheat induced understeer can be cured by very small decreases in temperature. As little as 5 degrees can make a noticeable difference. This then brings the poor overworked front tyre on a GTR back to similar temperatures to the rear tyres. Hence restoring the handling balance, not dramatically altering it. In summary, it would be simplistic to say that going to “R” tyres would still show up the same handling imbalance. The statement “if it understeers on crap tyres then it will still understeer on good tyres” is hence not always correct. In fact most times it is incorrect when it comes to cars with large weight imbalances front to rear. cheers

I gave him the ride height recommendations, as long as he stuck within them, ride height won't be the cause of his understeer. If he has lowered the rear bleow those recommendatioons then that would be a problem. Cheers

Sorry about the delay, I ran out of exchange turbos Let me know how it goes for your. cheers

PM sent cheers

PM sent cheers

Still searching

Sorry I didn't make it down to Wakefield, I had a stinking head cold on Monday and missed a day, so work was piled up like crazy for Wednesday. Add to the above kindly posted by salad. Try the front bar on full soft and the rear bar on full hard. That should cure the mid corner understeer. If it still has corner entry understeer, try 3 mm of toe out on the front and 2 mm of toe out on the rear. You maye find that amount of rear toe out a bit unsettling under brakes, some drivers don't like the nervousness it causes. If it still understeers, then you have a tyre problem that no amount of suspension tuning will fix. cheers

Front spring rate is different, GTR's weigh 180 kgs more Front damper rates are different, due to the extra weight and the higher spring rate Rear shocks on the GTR has a fork at the bottom mount, GTST's have an eye. cheers

PM sent cheers

Clearancing for high lift cams is great exaggerated. Around 30 minutes with a die grinder will fit the highest lift exhaust cam you can buy. No need to remove anything other than the camshaft. Shield the swarf spray with a rag and then clean up with a vacuum cleaner when finished. cheers

Have read of this thread on lowered springs and standard shocks; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=103158&hl= Then check out the Group Buy; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88141 cheers

PM sent cheers

Dave has bought the last set of R32GTR front Bilsteins, if you have an R32GTR and are desparate I can arrange an alternative. There is extra cost (around $100) as they would have to be revalved to suite. There are still some sets of rears in stock at Bilstein. Consequenlty I will hold the Group Buy open as long as I can. cheers

HKS make a combination Knock Amp and A/F ratio meter, they are around $900 or so. Very usefull tuning device, bit exy though. The cheaper alternative ($150 or so) is to buy some chassis ears and use the best knock detector known, the human ear. Of course Power FC's come with highly accurate knock amp included and display easily interpreted knock readings on the Commander (or Datalogit if you have one). cheers

The HKS Twin power units I have seen (both DLI’s) are not “true” CDI ie; Capacitive Discharge Ignition. They simply can’t be, using the optional harness, they are only wired into the positive supply to the spark plugs. The negative supply is still controlled by the standard ignitor. A true CDI would need to be wired into both the positive and the negative supply to the coil. I know HKS claim CDI like qualities, but that could simply mean that they use capacitor discharge to move the increased voltage and don’t actually switch the polarity as “true” CDI does. From what I can tell, the HKS Twin power simply increases the voltage at the primary winding of the coil and this gives a higher arc over voltage output from the secondary windings. This is triggered using the negative connection by the standard ignitor. The negative circuit is like this ECU  Ignitor  Coil  Plug (the Twin Power is not in this circuit) The positive circuit is like this Battery  Twin Power  Coil Unfortunately I haven’t had a car with a HKS Twin Power for long enough to test out the primary winding voltage. But if my guess is right, all it does is increase the voltage from 12-14 volts to perhaps 18-20 volts. This would then result in an increase in voltage at the coil discharge from around 40,000 volts to 60,000 volts. Which is a substantial benefit, if the coils can handle it. Step up DC transformers are around $40 for a 2 amp unit compared to ~$500 for a Twin Power. Hence it would worthwhile if someone with a HKS Twin Power unit could actually measure the input voltage to the coils. Then we would know the target voltage. For the guys that have HKS Twin power units, are you using them on cars with separate ignitors (ie; R32 and early R33)? Is anyone using one on a late R33 or R34 with the ignitor on the coil style? To function it really needs to go ECU  Ignitor  Twin Power  Coil  Plug Since the ignitior is at the coil in those models I can’t understand how the Twin Power fits into that circuit at all. cheers PS; a word of warning for te guys with Twin Power units, try and not get them wet when they are in use. In the US there is a bit of a campaign running by guys that have had 3 or 4 of them fail under those circumstances.

Bumpage Still looking

Price reduction, they are $182 now plus $5 freight. cheers

I have done a couple of high flow R34GTT turbos for guys, there is one at GCG right now as it happens. But they have supplied the turbo for high flowing. When I find one I will start a new Group Buy as I have done for the R32GTST high flows. cheers

Camber bolts go in cars with struts, Skylines have double wisbone suspension. Try the Group Buy for adjustable camber bushes for the upper control arms http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers

Yep, PM me for details cheers

PM Sent, I am sorry for the protracted delay. There are 2 turbos in the exchange program, one hasn’t come back for 6 weeks. The guy hasn’t removed the exchange turbo from the car yet and he already has the high flow. This has taken one turbo out of the rotation. Unfortunately the other turbo that came back on exchange had a problem. It had a cracked turbine cover and I have been searching for a replacement for 4 weeks. I finally found one yesterday and GCG did the machining last night. So Jamex will be sending it out to you tomorrow, it will go Priority, so you should get it Friday. Once again I apologise for the delay. cheers

cheers

Road car cheers

As djr81 said, race teams use temperature sensitive paint. For example the DBA 4000 series rotors come with temperature sensitive paint on the rotor edge. This is the DBA instruction sheet for what the temperature sensitive paint is going to tell you. There are 3 colours (green, orange & red) and they change colour (white, yellow & white) at different temperatures. So I will be able to tell how hot the rotors have been. This tells me what pads and what brake fluid to use. as you can see from the following picture, the green paint (458 degrees celsius) has started to change colour. And the orange (550 degrees celsius) is slightly more yellow. The red is still red, not white. Looking at those colour changes, I would say I haven't had many brake applications that have resulted in spot temperatures over 500 degrees. Hope that was of some help Cheers