Sydneykid

So now instead of just coil packs to cause you problems you now have 12 high voltage connections, 6 of which are totally exposed to under bonnet contamination. Plus the spark plugs are no longer sealed with means corrosion betweeen the steel spark plug body and the alloy cylinder head. I give it a few months before you have even more problems. Probably faster if it rains. D cheers

Try the Group Buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=140636 cheers

Turbo Timer…..YUK What do you want one of those for? They are just an easy place for someone to steal your car. Ooooo, I have to cool the turbo down after I thrash it. Yeh, but what about the gearbox, didn’t you thrash it at the same time? Oooooo, better buy a gearbox timer What about the diff, didn’t you thrash it at the same time? Oooooo, better buy a diff timer If you were really driving fast enough to heat up the turbo then you probably used the brakes it to stop in the driveway. Oooooo, better buy a brake timer Surely it makes more sense to do a lap of the block to cool the whole lot down. Not just the turbo, idling in the driveway. cheers

What camber does it have with the standard arms fitted? cheers

First off have a read of this thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=spherical Keep in mind that almost all of the “retail” camber kits are designed to REMOVE the negative camber that occurs when Skylines are lowered. This is because the “road car market” is far larger than the “race car market” and they are looking at excessive inside tyre wear as the major problem that they need to overcome by adjusting the camber. Keeping that in mind, the standard R32 style upper control arm is 190 mm long, centre of the outer bolt to the centre of the inner bolt. Using the off the shelf adjustable, offset, outer bush (Whiteline etc) reduces that to 184 mm. This gives around 2 to 2.5 degrees of negative camber on an R32 with a ride height around 355 mm centre of wheel to guard with around 6.5 degrees of caster on a 2wd and 5.0 degrees on a 4wd. That is usually enough camber/caster, provided sufficient anti roll is used (larger stabiliser bars), for most circuits. High speed circuits with long sweeping radius curves (eg; Philip Island) need slightly more camber. So we use the off the shelf adjustable, offset bush (Whiteline etc) in the inner of the upper control arm. That reduces the length to around 180 mm. This gives around 3.0 to 3.5 degrees of negative camber on an R32 with a ride height around 355 mm centre of wheel to guard with around 6.5 degrees of caster on a 2wd and 5.0 degrees on a 4wd. This 180 mm length seems to have been the minimum that ALL of the R32 camber adjusters have been made to. All of the brands of upper control arms that I have measured (Noltec, Nismo, Ikeya etc) all stop at 180 mm or longer. So choosing one brand over another to get more negative camber is pretty much a waste of time. Cheers

None of the other IEBC's display this symptom. The denser air (your night example) is measured by the AFM and consequently the ECU adds the necessary fuel to compensate. This additonal fuel is noted by the IEBC and, provide you have it mapped correctly, will adjust the solenoid duty cycle to compensate. So you have a couple of choices; 1. Don't worry about it, the turbo will handle 1.5 bar easily, as will the engine. Just make sure the tuner is aware of the extra boost and tunes accordingly. 2. Fine tune the IEBC to allow for the higher injector duty cycle. cheers

You need to have a look at an RB30DET cam belt on the engine dyno, you would be surprised how much it flops around the tensioner/idler high rpm. It's why I went for the wide spacing on my RB30DET's. cheers

The softest adjustment holes are a bit of a stretch, that's normal. The pictures are taking with the supension at full droop. The stretch isn't as great when the suspension is at normal ride height. cheers

Preload is only relevant to travel, the small amount you are talking (10mm) would have ZERO effect. Some people incorrectly believe that preload increases the spring rate. The spring rate is constant in a linear spring, it is always X lbs per inch, no mattter which inch that is. The first inch of travel or the 10th inch of travel, it still takes X lbs to move it that inch. Undo one of the stabiliser bar links and then put the car on level ground. The link bolt should slip in and out of the hole on the stabiliser bar arm pretty easily. The arm of the bar shouldn't need to be "preloaded" in order to get the bolt in. If the bolt doesn't line up by more than a few mm, then space the D brackets (that hold the bar to the chassis). Cheers

Use the standard Nissan upper mounts. You don't need sperical bearings on R32/33/34, they are double wishbone suspension front and rear, so the shocks mounts DO NOT control the suspension geometry. The upper and lower control arms control the geometry. I can guarantee you that using spherical bearing strut tops will not improve the handling on you road Skyline ONE LITTE BIT. cheers

Strengthen up the 240Z, they are notoriously flexible. Particularly the C pillars. Put some decent suspension in it and it will be fine. After all its only 100kgs lighter than my R32GTST which has 600+ rwhp. cheers

Happy dynos, or non standard fuel pressure. 270 bhp = 202 kw - 50 kw losses = 152 rwkw The 270 cc's = 270 bhp rule assume 85% duty cycle So 152 + 15% = 175 rwkw at 100% duty cycle cheers

So you have an uneven chassis, nothing unusual in that, 90% of the cars I corner weight are uneven. You have the capacity to even the car up with the height adjustment, so just do it and move on. Make sure there is no preload on the stabiliser bars, just space the D brackets to eliminate it. Then check the wheel alignment once it is level and with zero preload. cheers

Since the braking power of the standard brakes is easily able to exceed the traction of the tyres, what is it that you hope to achieve with these callipers and rotors? Or are you you just intent on making the guys selling them rich? cheers

Nope, the weight difference you are looking at is less than 1 kg per wheel. The handling improvement is FAR greater than a miniscule 1 kg weight penalty. All of which is sprung weight on a Skyline. Have a good shit before you go racing, that'll save the 1 kg, with some change. Nope, stabiliser bars are the best bang for buck suspension upgrade you can make for improved handling. Road or track. Why do you think every decent race car up to F1 has driver adjustable stabiliser bars? Simply because they are the best method tuning the handling balance. Yep, and the factory race cars had upgraded (adjustable) stabiliser bars. cheers

The Xmas rush has started, if you want a turbo upgrade before the holiday break (22/12/06 to 3/1/07) then best not to delay too long. cheers

The Xmas rush has started, if you want suspension before the holiday break (22/12/06 to 3/1/07) then best not to delay too long. cheers

PM sent cheers

Good news, after much searching I have been able to find 10 sets of R32GTR front Bilsteins and they arrived today. Update, 2 sets have already sold, so don't delay. cheers

Not that I have seen. Hollow stabiliser bars are horrendously expensive to make. A few poeple have claimed to have aftermarket hollow stabilisr bars on their Skylines. But when I check they are either solid bars or simply painted standard bars. cheers

Reeece came to Australian to set the record because the tracks in NZ are not prepared to a sufficient standard. Even here he black tracked it for whole 1/4. cheers

Nope 1. they will wear out quick and then they will knock like a bustard and drive you crazy 2. they will not absorb any NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness) which will be passed in to the cabin 3. they will pass all vibration and any impacts striaght to the sub frame and or chassis, which will eventually crack 4. when they do wear out, you most likely won't be able to buy new sphericals so you will have ot buy complete new strut tops 5. If you service them, say twice a year, they will last a little longer, but do you really want to be pulling the 4 spring and shock units out of the car every 6 months to service them? cheers

Boost is irrelevant. RB20DET injecotrs are 270cc so 270 bhp is it cheers

Still plenty around cheers

Pictures? cheers