Sydneykid

Tie rod ends are the joint where the steering arms meets the uprights (hub) Rear traction rods are the upper arms that stop the rear wheels moveing backwards and forwards Caster rods are the arms that stop the front wheels moving backwards and forwards Tension rods are caster rods and/or traction rods Rose joints = pillow balls = spherical bearings This thread explains why spherical bearings are not a good idea on a road car http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=spherical This thread details the maintenance regimen required for spherical bearings http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=144892 cheers

In R32/33/34's rear strut braces are pretty much a waste of money, the rear upper control arms mount to the rear subframe, not the chassis. Front strut braces are definitely worth it, because the front upper control arms do mount to the chassis. cheers

Like all hydraulic devices, shock abosrbers are velocity sensitive. The higher the the velocity of shock movement (not to be confused with higher frequency) the more damping effect. That's without any valving steps. When you have multiple valves you can then modify that normal velocity sensitivity, either increase or decrease it. cheers

This thread explains the maintenance required; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=144892 This thread explains why spherical bearings are not a good idea; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=spherical cheers

If I remember rightly, you're not running a standard turbo. So I wouldn't expect the ignition timing to be same. Cheers

We do it after every race meeting, so 8 times a year. For a road car, every time you do an engine oil change should cover it. cheers

The R32GTST and the trailer weigh around 1.75 tonnes with at least 300 kgs of stuff (toolbox, wheels & spares etc) in the wagon. So add that to the Stagea weight, plus 1 passenger and 1 driver and you get almost 4 tonnes in total. The trailer has electric brakes, so it has sufficient braking such that the Stagea brakes don’t do any extra work. Our Stagea (an S1) has the usual, boost up, turbo back exhaust, filter and piggy back (DFA, IEBC & SITC) tune. With the standard turbo at 10 psi it makes around 170 rwkw, with noticeable boost at 2,000 rpm. Torque is pretty flat (over 5,000 newtons) from 2,500 rpm to 6,000 rpm, so it has no problem hauling 4 tonnes around. The transmission is protected by a large cooler, plus the standard loop through the radiator bottom tank. The only thing I would change is the fuel tank, it simply isn’t big enough at 65 litres. Moving along briskly at the speed limit it uses a bit over 20 litres per 100k’s on the highway/freeway, so every 250 to 270 k’s I start looking for a service station. The transporter does 1000k’s before it needs diesel and the other tow car (Prado) will do 500k’s on its tank of 92 ron. So we basically stop twice as often as our travelling companions and have to seek out (and pay for) 100 ron This gets rather annoying on long trips, such as Philip Island. But its OK for 95% of what we do, Oran Park, Eastern Creek, WSID, Bathurst and Wakefield Park. Compared to the 4 litre EL Foulcan wagon we used for towing before, the Stagea is pretty much a perfect fit. cheers

I don't have an SAFC, I am using a DFA, so unfortunately those setting don't correspond. I have as flat an A/F ratio as I can manage at 12.0 to 1 from 3,000 rpm to 7,200 rpm. I made sure it was never leaner than 12 to 1, so it hasa couple of spots where it gets into the high 11’s. But that the compromise you make when using a piggy back. On the SITC I am running; 800rpm = 0 2,400rpm = +5 4,000rpm = -1 5,600rpm = -8 7,200 rpm = -12 So it looks like I have a fair bit more aggression in the ignition timing. I am using Shell V Power Racing 100 ron, which might be why I can run a bit more advance. I have tuned it using a set of bionic ears and listening for knock. I have been road tuning it so far, so I haven’t had it on the dyno. I will do that once I have fitted the last mod, which is a Performance Metalcraft split dump engine pipe combo. I do have a very lightly used GCG Ball Bearing high flow on the shelf that I was going to put on, but I like the low down torque that it now has. It is very useful when towing the R32GTST, which, after all, is what the Stagea is supposed to be used for. So I might keep the standard turbo on until it gets ceramic in the cat disease. On your no power problem at 4,500 rpm, I am surprised that the SAFC is set at +2. That means the ECU is seeing more than normal airflow (ie; higher voltage). So you have actual higher airflow from the higher boost and lower restrictions (exhaust, filter etc) and then the SAFC is adding to that. The ECU should be jumping to R&R mapping, which would explain the loss of power. Once you start lowering the AFM voltage (that the ECU sees) from 5,000 rpm onwards, the ECU is far less likely to jump to R&R mapping. More voltage correction from the SAFC as the rpm rises means you get further and further away from the trigger. I have found that the 4,000 rpm to 5,500 rpm range is always the hardest to tune using piggy backs. It is where the most compromises have to be made in the A/F ratios and ignition tuning. Under and over that range is far simpler in comparison. cheers PS; if you want to test this out yourself, try changing the SAFC setting at 4,500 rpm to 0 or even -2. Then do a quick run and see if the power loss is still as severe. I wouldn't leave it there, but a couple of short test runs won't hurt. Then you will know what direction to head in when you talk to the dyno tuner.

JDM 200SX S15 manuals have 440 cc injectors, all others have 370 cc's same as RB25DET. As far as I know RB25DET injectors are unique in their dimensions. For example, Toyota 1JZ and 2JZ injectors are side feed, but you would need to make adaptor rings for them fit the RB25DET inlet manifold. The SARD side feed injectors are actually designed for 1/2JZ's that's why they need adaptor rings. From what I have seen WRX's come with at least 3 different styles of injectors, 2 different top feed styles and one side feed style. None of them are the same as RB25's If you are going to the trouble of making adaptor rings, you might as well use top feed injectors, plenty to choose from then. Cheers

There are 2 P platers, let’s call one SOSK (son of Sydneykid) and the other DOSK (daughter of Sydneykid). This is not a gender thing, just one family’s experiences. Now SOSK had been racing karts from when he was 10 until he was 17. So he knew how to steer using the steering wheel and the accelerator, how to brake, how to survive with 30 other teenagers driving a few mm away, how to anticipate, the difference between a wet and a dry road etc etc. Hence SOSK was actually very easy to teach how to actually drive a car. But road rules were a bit tougher, he figured that he already knew everything that he needed to know. That’s why he had 2 goes at passing the licence test. DOSK had none of that experience, so it was start from scratch with her. She had no idea how to steer using the steering wheel, let alone the accelerator. She hadn’t a clue how to brake and she would have no chance surviving with 3 other teenagers driving a few metres away, let alone 30. She had no anticipation and no idea of the difference between a wet and a dry road etc etc. DOSK was actually much easier to teach the road rules, she knew that she knew nothing. She passed the licence test first time. Some years later and SOSK has a Skyline and I never fear for his car control, he is most unlikely to get himself into trouble in that regard. DOSK on the other hand is not ready for a high powered car, the finesse simply isn’t there yet. Although I have no doubt it will come, given time. SOSK has had a couple of speeding tickets and took 2 goes to pass his licence. DOSK passed first time and has never even had a parking ticket. The law/govt/court/police/media would judge DOSK to be a better driver. When I know that SOSK is the better driver, right now anyway. They are two very different people, with totally different skill sets, but both governed by the same set of rules. And that’s in one family, let alone the rest of the state/country/world. How do you make one set of rules that covers all people? The simple answer is you cant’. The problem we have is that socialism is starting to take over, the lowest common denominator is being used to judge all others. Driver A (red P’s) is not capable of driving a Skyline, therefore ALL drivers on red P’s are not allowed to drive Skylines. Driver B (full licence) may also not be capable of driving a Skyline, but he is allowed to. Until we have a graduated licence system based on actual advanced driving skills, not a parrot fashion learning of road rules or a video game test, this will always be wrong. cheers

Time for someone to take them both to court and then let them fight it out. cheers PS; if you are Victoria and you want to fight a speed camera charge, request a copy under FOI (Freedom of Information) of the report into speed cameras commissioned by the Victorian Government in 2004. Quote sections 7 and 9 and you should get off every time.

170 rwkw from an exhaust, boost up and piggy back tune is pretty damn good. I can't read the graph all that well, a decent scan would be nice. In particular would like a closer look at the boost and A/F ratios graphs. Is the exhaust turbo back? If so, is it split dump? High flow cat? Want to share the SITC settings? I will be interesting to compare the S2 with an S1. cheers

The Australian standard for emergency vehicles is flashing orange. That's tow trucks and breakdown vehicles etc, not police, fire or ambulance of course they are blue and red. Hence why 4 way (emergency) flashers on cars are blinker orange. Falshing orange is not the same as permanently lit yellow as found in fog lights. Is this another example of Queensland breaking the Australian standards? cheers

Does anyone know the Stagea S1 headlight globe configuration? Low beam = High Beam = Fog Light = What about Stagea S2? Low beam = High Beam = Fog Light = cheers

OK, I'm confused, aren't the best fog lights supposed to be yellow? I have 5 cars and 3 of them have yellow fog lights (the Stagea being one of them). Personally I find that they are much better in the fog than the other 2 cars that have white fog lights. cheers

It was a Power FC, so we can (and did) richen up #5 and #6 after these runs to even up the EGT's. After all that's why we were testing the EGT's in the first place. It wasn't to put shit on the plenum/inlet, it was done to ensue that the individual cylinder tune was as good as we could get it. Keep in mind that #6 already had the highest flowing injector (+1.0%), then #5 (+0.8%). We only had 2 F&W lamba sensors back then, so EGT was the best way to balance the 6 cylinders. Now we have 4 sensors, so we can do a 6 cylinder with 2 power runs on the dyno, by swapping 2 injectors around. We do one run and log 1,2,3 & 4 then the next run we log 3, 4, 5 & 6. Then we line up 3 and 4 for the 2 runs and that tells us if we have any issues between 1 & 2 and 5 & 6. The pyrometer readings were pretty good for balancing A/F ratios, but the lambdas are better. cheers

I have done a quick search and came up with some discussion about xenon headlights, S2's and compliance downgrades. But nothing that helped me out with what I should do in the non xenon arena. It started when one of the low beam globes blew in our Stagea S1 a couple weeks ago and SOSK bought a replacement Narva bulb. Now it no longer has a cut off at the top of the low beam on that side. It splays light all over the place. I have checked that the globe is located firmly in the reflector, which it is. So I figured I might use this opportunity to look at what alternatives out there in upgraded globes for low beam. high beam and fog lights. I have asked Kudos what he has for Stagea's, I will post that info up when it arrives. In the interim, what have been your experiences? cheers

Toe won't have changed 5-10 mm makes a little difference to camber More than 10 mm you should have the camber reset cheers

Remove the spring/shock units from the car Remove the strut tops from the spring/shock units Wash the strut tops in kero Dry thoroughly with compressed air Make sure there is no dust, grit or dirt in the spherical bearingss Lubricate with white (moly) grease Check the operation, if loose, with free play, then replace the spherical bearings If smooth in operation Replace the strut tops on the spring/shock units Replace the spring/shock units into the car cheers

As per the PM, 350 mm front and 340 mm rear Cheers

Shell Optimax 100 RON (been using it since January) versus Shell V Power Racing 100 ron (been using it for a month). Same A/F ratios Same knock readings Same injection tune Same ignition tune If there is a difference, it is too small to measure with my equipment Cheers

PM Sent cheers

PM sent cheers

Oil cooler, wouldn't run a plain bearing turbo without one. Plus Castrol Edge 10W60 (or equivalent) to handle the extreme temperatures in the turbo plain bearing. Make sure you cool the turbo down, not idling in the garage/driveway with a turbo timer, drive it slowly, extra lap of the block. cheers

You really need to have provision for BOTH side feed and top feed injectors. Because: 1. Guys who want/have to do a plenum change, but who want to use the standard side feed injectors. Bonnet clearance reasons and the usual budget constraints. 2. Guys who have already upgraded to aftermarket side feed injectors. For obvious reasons they don’t want to have to go out and buy top feed injectors 3. Guys have don’t have the budget to buy aftermarket side feed injectors, top feed injectors are much easier to get, new or used and cheaper 4. Guys who can’t find the right sized side feed injector for their power target, so they need to use top feed injectors. 5. Guys (like me) who have heaps of RB26 top feed 444 cc injectors that would work great in 260 to 280 rwkw applications. ie; spend the money on a plenum instead of injectors. It won’t be that hard. A set of alloy o’rings to adapt the top feed injectors to the inlet manifold and a set of spacers for the top feed fuel rail. The manifold itself doesn’t have to be different. When you order you specify “side feed injector” style or “both”, the “both” option costs a bit more of course. That would give you a USP (unique selling proposition) which no one else offers. cheers