Sydneykid

Castrol is owned by BP, is that what you mean by "don't make their own oil"? cheers

What's the difference between a manual and automatic transfer case? cheers

The problem is whenever I give my phone number out to people from Canada or the UK, they ring me at all hours of the night. I have made that mistake before, never again. Some people simply don't understand that I might be sleeping in Australia while they are at work in the UK. I should also point out that this isn't my job, I am not getting paid to sell engines (or suspension for that matter). They didn't pay me a cent. I get paid to do engineering work, not sell stuff. I am just helping out here, the people who want good RB30s' and the guys who I did the engineering work for. Even if they had my phone number it wouldn't have helped in this instance, I deliberately didn't take my mobile phone away with me on holidays. cheers

Some more info needed; What model is this? Who is doing your wheel alignments? Have you asked thenm to check the steering play? What about checking for worn bushes? What are the camber settings? Toe settings? Since it has had an accident has anyone measured the wheelbase, side to side? Just because the caster is right, doesn't mean it hasn't got LHS set back of the front suspension. cheers

Looks standard to me, pretty hard to tell from the limited photos though. Some shots of the shock bodies and coil springs would help. cheers

PM sent, orders in progress. cheers

Sorry for not noticing this thread earlier, but it's not a group that I visit often. As most people know I spend my time in Suspension and Forced Induction, that and answering 30-40 PM's a day. I am not going anywhere, I most certainly haven't racked off with anyone's money. In fact more than they have paid me has been spent on parts for their RB30's. So there is no money to rack of with (Rio was looking good for while though). In this build there were 7 x RB30's and 2 have been delivered in the last 2 weeks, the other 5 are being progressed as I write this. Along the way all 7 guys have been given updates with copious quantities of pictures. Sure we are a couple of months behind schedule, but that was caused by parts availability problems. This caused us to miss our window on RB30 building, and we had to complete other contracted work. Plus the machine shop guys nedeed some time off over Xmas, since September they have been working 6 days a week for 10-12 hours every day. The sort of work and the quality requires 100% concentration and you can't do that if you are exhausted. All I can do is apologise and assure everyone that I am on the case, every single day. My offer still stands, anyone that wants to pull out will get a 100% refund. cheers

There are no bushes left that wear excessively once you have installed the stabiliser bars, the caster, camber and rear subframe alignment kits. cheers

The shipment was received at Bilstein and deliveries will start tomorrow for guys that have already placed orders. There are quite a few sets in stock, but they will go quickly, so get your orders in. The standard delivery times are restored; Springs are usually in stock at Whiteline Bilstein takes 1-2 working days to machine the additional circlip grooves Bushes are usually in stock at Whiteline Stabiliser bars take 4-5 working days to make as Whiteline do not keep stock Delivery is via Toll priority and usually takes 1-2 working days to anywhere in Australia. I PM the con note number as soon as Jamex issues it that way you can track the delivery on the Toll web site. cheers

The shipment was received at Bilstein and deliveries will start tomorrow for guys that have already placed orders. There are quite a few sets in stock, but they will go quickly, so get your orders in. The standard delivery times are restored; Springs are usually in stock at Whiteline Bilstein takes 1-2 working days to machine the additional circlip grooves Bushes are usually in stock at Whiteline Stabiliser bars take 4-5 working days to make as Whiteline do not keep stock Delivery is via Toll priority and usually takes 1-2 working days to anywhere in Australia. I PM the con note number as soon as Jamex issues it that way you can track the delivery on the Toll web site. cheers

We have had this discusion before, a dyno run against a constant load in 4th gear DOES NOT SHOW SPOOL UP TIME. Hence it most certainly won't show differences in friction between rollers and plain bearings. cheers

Dynapack dynos are hub style (no rollers) so take 20-30 rwkw off the results when comparing to a roller style dyno such as DynoDynamics. cheers

GTR, GTST, GTT or GTS4? cheers

I am working on it, at 30-40 PMs a day and 4 days back log, it might take me a few minutes. cheers

The Bilstein shocks have cleared customs and are expected to be delivered Monday. The guys with orders already placed will be receiving their shocks from Tuesday onwards. Cheers

The Bilstein shocks have cleared customs and are expected to be delivered Monday. The guys with orders already placed will be receiving their shocks from Tuesday onwards. Cheers

I do. I did. Based on over 30 Skylines that have been on our engine and chassis dynos 550 bhp / 1.34 = 410 kw Drive train and roller losses in a typical R34GTT (mine for example) are around 60 - 70 kw Hence 340 rwkw. Cheers

This is the R32GTST thread. Better to watch the R33GTST thread and that will tell you when the Bilsteins have been cleared through customs. I am in Melbourne from Sunday to Thursday and may not have internet access for much of that time. Cheers

What height is it now? There is a limit as to how low you can go with the standard springs. cheers PS; PM box has space

Pardon my interruption, but we need to clear up some facts. 1. 500 bhp is not 260 rwkw, well not in any Skyline I have seen. More like ~300 rwkw. 2. Similarly 550 bhp is ~340 rwkw. That's a pretty big high flow using the standard turbine and compressor covers, albeit machined. I would be asking about compressor surge issues at that sort of power levels. cheers

The ATTESSA handles different tyre diameters due to wear ie; you can have barely legal tyres on one end and brand new tyres on the other end. That's a 6 mm difference in radius, 12 mm in diameter and 37 mm in circumference. That's covers most width profile differences easily. Real world, my Stagea doesn't like 225/50/16's on one end and 245/40/17's on the other end. After less than 1/2k driving in a straight line, the ATTESSA started to shudder. I had to turn the steering wheel (for imaginary corners) to stop the shudder. I must have looked like a lunatic, warming the tyres up driving down the freeway. cheers

Sure it will "run" the RB25DET. But it won't have any VVT, simply put; 1. The PFC expects (talks to) an infinitely variable drive for the inlet camshaft 2. The RB25DET (non Neo) has only an on/off switch on its VVT 3. So they won't talk to each other So my guess is everything else will work, but not the VVT. Anything that doesn't work should be easily fixed, but not the VVT. For example the ATTESSA outputs from the ECU. Notwithstanding the auto transmission issue of course. cheers

Whiteline don't even know that SOSK's R33GTST has one of your lock bars on it. No reverse engineering is going to happen on my watch. Plus I will make sure I charge enough for the engineering so that they will have to sell them for more than yours. cheers

Jim and I are still debating this one, he tested it on the Whiteline test rig and found a difference. I use split settings all the time and haven't found one driver who can pick any side to side difference. A stabiliser bar simply links one wheel to the other wheel on the same axis, so anything you do to stiffen up one arm must stiffen up the other. This is how most race cars adjust their anti roll, by rotating the blade (arm) on one side of the bar. The fact is that this adjustment results in equal and linear increases/decreases in anti roll. The question (and the debate) therefore can only be about the geometry of the links when different holes are used side to side. Based on real world testing, on a Skyline that effect is very small on the rear and basically non existent on the front. Moving on to settings, there is no right or wrong in stabiliser bar settings. It is a personal choice, you set them the way that feels best for you. Personally I would start with the front on the middle setting and the rear on the softest setting. But have a play around, see what you like, that's why you spent the extra money so that you could adjust them. cheers PS; the Group Buy stabiliser bars come with additional adjustment holes over the Whiteline retail product.

GTRGeoff's lock bar is cheaper, but if he doesn't have any, I can organise the Whiteline R32 HICAS lock bar kit for $190 delivered to any where in Australia. The kit also comes with a hydraulic bypass loop which you can use if you don't want to remove all the hydraulic stuff. The HICAS computer still thinks everything is OK, so you don't have to remove the warning globe either. Whiteline don't make R33 or R34 HICAS lock bars yet, but I am working on it. cheers