Sydneykid

You could try 345 mm, but it depends on how much travel you are using. If that 10 mm reduction results in excessive bump stop contact, then it will have a negative effect. Have you checked the travel with the "old cable tie on the shock shaft" trick? cheers

The 8kg/mm springs will compress more than the 10 kg/mm springs to hold up the weight of the car. R32GTR usually weighs around 950 kgs on the front So 950 /2 = 475 kgs 10 kg/mm = 47 mm to hold up 475 kgs 8 kg/mm = 60 mm to hold up 475 kgs So ~13 mm of the 60 mm will be needed for the softer spring to hold up the car. Hence you only need 47.5 mm of adjustment It's a cheap test, $150 for softer rear springs cheers

Hi Padey, the Group Buy is still open, so far from long gone. All parts are in stock at Whiteline/Bilstein except the rear shocks which are due to be made by Bilstein Germany on 28th February 2007. Plus say 2 weeks for the airfreight shipment to arive, clear customs etc. Duncan is pretty much spot on, there is a definite technique to driving a GTR on a track. Tyre pressure are important as are wheel alignment settings. I would be carefull about running a standard sump GTR on a circuit using "R" type tyres, oil surge is a common problem. At 1.58's you are probalby not generating enough g-force to be a problem, but once you get accustomed to it and get the alignment right, then oil surge will become an issue. cheers

Have I got this right, 278 rwkw RB25DET delta fin cooler 3" exhaust gt3037 @ 14psi 38mm external gate with screamer sub zero plenum injectors are stock as far as im aware afm is stock In a Silvia Ts = 118 mph I agree, it doesn’t add up. 1. The TS should be 125 mph or so for that sort of power and weight. 2. The AFM will be reaching 5 volts at a bit less than 4,500 rpm (~220 rwkw). That leaves 3,000 rpm of only mapping via RPM points 3. The standard ECU doesn’t like that sort of stuff at all 4. Someone put a SubZero plenum on and left the injectors standard, seems illogical to me 5. The standard injectors flow 370 cc’s at standard pressure (36-38 psi). That’s 370 bhp, or ~215 rwkw. So 278 rwkw out of standard injectors at standard pressure is impossible. 6. The A/F ratios being all over the place, particularly the richness ~4,200 rpm to 6,000 rpm, indicates larger than standard injectors are likely. 7. The reason why it is hard to drive down the ¼ is the non linear response from the engine due to the tune being all over the place My guesses, Z32 AFM, chipped/bent ECU and 500 cc injectors. Fix the tune and it will make a bit more max power (over 300 rwkw), a heap more average power (particularly in the all important 4 to 6,000rpm range) and it will be much faster and more consistent down the ¼. cheers

Be careful, it will almost certainly be faster with softer springs and harder bars, than the other way around. This is due to the loss of traction from the higher spring rates. Plus you increase the braking and acceleration (straight line) traction with more compliant spring rates. cheers

Standard is around 165 lbs/inch (3kg/mm) There is no real need to get carried away with huge springs rates. You should really check out the R32GTR Group Buy. The Group Buy kit was engineered (by me) to give a sporty ride for the street and at the same time suite the sorts of things that Skyline owners use their cars for (road drag and circuit). It a great all round kit and I have not included anything that I don’t think needs to be there. Everything has a purpose and contributes to the all round ability of the kit. For example the R33GTST that won the NSW State Speed Event Championship in 2005 used basically this kit. It was driven from the north coast of NSW to Sydney for the events, raced and then driven the 400 k's home. The Group Buy Bilsteins have additional circlip grooves added so you can set the height you want before you fit them. There are 6 grooves 8 mm apart and I can tell you the height that you will get from each groove. Keep in mind that GTR's handle best around 355 mm front and 345 mm rear (centre of wheel to guard). cheers

The CAS produces a pulsing signal when the engine is running, the 1 degree is stable because it is more frequent, hence the multimeter reading doesn't vary much. The 120 degree signal is less frequent hence the multimeter reading does vary. As far as I know you can't check CAS operation with a multimeter at idle. The 120 degree signal should stabilse as the rpm rises. So maybe try it at higher rpm, that's where you should/might get the Nissan manual voltages. Cheers

72% efficiency for 65 lbs/min of airflow for 1.5 bar boost at just under 100,000 rpm is pretty damn good. A ball bearing turbo will last forever at those sorts of loads. The only turbine map I have seen is for the 0.84. cheers

I get at least 1 PM per week asking this sort of stuff. “I want to go RB30, but I also want to use 9,500 rpm.” OR “I like to rev my engines, so an RB30 isn’t suitable for me. The problem is, if you use the 9,500 rpm efficiently on an RB30, it’s going to make 1,000 bhp or so. So what are you choosing to do, rev it inefficiently to 9,500 rpm? That makes a lot of sense, not. Much smarter (and a whole lot cheaper) to work out how much power you want/need and then rev the RB30 to that rpm. Hence why the above are nonsense comments, stop looking at the tacho all the time and feel the horsepower. After all that’s what it’s all about. cheers

T04Z compressor map, note the lack of airflow at 0.75 bar, lucky to make 450 bhp. Get it up to 1.5 bar and then you are talking, 700 bhp teritory. cheers

Basically these kits are not actually designed for “modifying” the roll centre. They are designed to “put back to standard” (or close to standard) the roll centre after you have lowered the car too much. That’s why they work so well on the McPherson strut front end cars like S13/S14/S15, they give back the standard roll centre. Simply put, Nissan were right in the first place. If you are looking at correcting the roll centre, then you need to also be conscious of the anti squat geometry in regards to the radius rods front mounting. It may be necessary to also correct that at the same time. With GTR’s you have to contend with the added complication of front drive shaft angles when you lower them too far. The best answer = don’t low it too far. cheers

All the info is in this thread. The Bilsteins come with the circlips in the recommended height groove (eg; 355/345). The grooves are 8 mm apart The wheel to shock travel is 1 to 1, so 8 mm at the shock = 8 mm at the wheel Hence if you want 355 mm front, then don't move the circlips If you want 347 mm then go down 1 groove (8mm) Always remember every car is different. You will get excessive rear camber at 330 mm with 1 rear camber kit. You will need 2 rear camber kits if you want to go that low. Which isn't recommended, as it results in noticeably decreased ride comfort and poorer handling. So if you go that low, you are doing it for looks only. Cheers

Yes, but with special tools that you would have to make first. Of course I left one possibility off; #4, customer loyalty, where he does it for a good price because you are a regular customer Until a 100 guys from the SAU forum turn up asking for the same price Then he hates you and you won't get a good price ever again cheers

200 lbs/inch (3.6 kg/mm) cheers

Both 2 door and 4 door. cheers

The full kit is the go. The Group Buy kit was engineered (by me) to give a sporty ride for the street and at the same time suite the sorts of things that Skyline owners use their cars for (road drag and circuit). It a great all round kit. For example the R33GTST that won the NSW State Speed Event Championship in 2005 used basically this kit. It was driven from the north coast of NSW to Sydney for the events, raced and then driven the 400 k's home. cheers

Yes, they have to remove the whole rear subframe from the car to put it in the press. That means drive shafts, diff, tailshaft, stabilsier bar, shocks, springs, brake callipers, habd brake cable etc etc all have to be removed first. If someone is quoting $200 then it is either; 1. A new guy who has never done one before and has no idea how long it will take 2. A suck in price, they will find something "wrong" and then charge more 3. Someone who thinks that they can do it in the car with a screw style press, when 99% of time they can't. One or more of the bushes will not budge and they will have to remove the whole subframe. Then refer to #2 cheers

I assume you guys have all seen the pictures I posted of the Gibson R32GTR's in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...4&hl=Gibson cheers

Outer on R33's and R34's Both inner and outer on R32's cheers

The Kings springs rates are slightly higher on the front than Whielines in the Group Buy. Same handling but slightly better ride. The Whiteline rears springs are progressive, slightly softer than the Kings initially and slightly firmer thereafter. Better ride and better handling I tried Kings when I was doing the Group Buy engineering, the Whitelines were simply better, better handling, better ride and superior quality. Plus a cheaper price. cheers

The PM box is now clear for the guys who where trying to PM me. cheers

Based on the results of the guys currently using it, the kit will piss all over any Jap suspension. Road or track. Ask around and you will find that I don't exagerate. cheers

No they didn't, PM sent. Chin, is it really necessary today to; Send me 1 SMS message ? Send me 2 PM's ? Send me 1 Email ? and post it in this thread? cheers

I have never seen an R32 without stabiliser bars. The Whiteline stabiliser bars come with all the bushes necessary to replace the standard bars. If you car truly doesn't have stabiliser bars (which I would be surprised at) then you will need to go to an import wrecker and buy the standard stabiliser bar hardware. cheers

Obviously everyone has noticed that it is a DynaPack dyno, hub style therefore no wheels and tyres, no wheelspin and no rollers. Hence higher numbers, all things being equal. It should realy be expressed as rhkw (rear hub kilowatts) not rwkw (rear wheel kilowatts) as there are no "wheels" on the car when it made that power run. That it makes it max power at over 7,500 rpm, using a 0.82 to 1 A/R turbine is amazing, more like a miracle. More info needed... It has Jun 260 degree cams, but they have 9.3 mm lift. Any comparison with the more common 8.X lift cams (eg; Tomei Poncams) is meaningless. It also obviously has head work, otherwise it wouldn't make power at that high rpm. (Yep, the spec list says it does). So removing restrictions (cams and head work) means similar airflow at lower boost level. Maybe 19 psi isn't so wide of the mark The 10.65 for the 1/4 indicates no excess of traction, considering the mph. Nismo suspension, so I am not surprised. Around 345 rwkw would give you that sort of time. The 128 mph indicates around 360 rwkw. Based on past experiences, it is set to kW SAE which if I remember rightly means "at the engine" on a DynaPack. So the 450 kw less say 80 kw for losses = 370 rwkw in our usual terminolgy (Dyno Dynamics) Summary; ET = 345 rwkw TS = 360 rwkw Corrected dyno = 370 rwkw (in Dyno Dynamics speak) Let's split the difference and say 365 rwkw, does that sound better? cheers