Sydneykid

What are the actual ride heights, centre of wheel to guard on all 4 corners? For Kings lows it should be around 355 mm at the front and 345 mm at the rear. Super Lows are ~15 mm lower than that. It is not unusual to see Super Lows used in the front and Lows used in the back of 4 doors. To allow for the load carrying, rear pasengers and a full boot. Since the rear guards are cut lower than the front guards, the correct way to measure rake is at the sills just behined the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels. Slightly nose down is the best for handling, around 5 to 10 mm. cheers

They are standard, you just can't get to them without dismantling the VVT actuator. Bass Junky sells an adaptor ring that enables you to do it without the hassle. Cheers

OK, that turbo timer is a waste of money. cheers

Personally I would get it tuned in Darwin, because that's were it lives, those are the conditions it has to run in every day. We have been to Darwin a couple of times with the race cars and I can tell you that we had to retune them for the local humidity and heat. We hired out one of the local dynos. A number of Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane Improved Production cars will be there for the V8 Supercar meeting 22-24th June. Many of the leading teams tuners usually make the trip up north. I would try and hook up with one of them, get them to stay an extra day and tune your car. cheers

ATTESA doesn't like different diameter tyres, wears out the clutch pack something fierce. GTR's tend to understeer, so using smaller tyres on the front is not a good idea Over 60% of the weight of a GTR is on the front wheels, so using smaller tyres on the front is not a good idea. Over 75% of the initial braking effort of a GTR comes from the front brakes, so using smaller tyres on the front is not a good idea. cheers

The turbo still spins while idling under the turbo timer's control, EXACTLY the same as it does when you let the engine idle under your control. The turbo doesn't know it's the turbo timer holding the idle. Turbo timers were of some use when we all had plain bearing turbos, with heavy rotating mass and mineral oil in the engine. Now we have balls, lightweight turbines and compressors and synthetic oil in our engines. Time has passed the turbo timer by. Spend the $50 to $500 you save on not buying a turbo timer on making the car go faster or handle nicer. It's much better value for your money. By far the best value for money boost controller I have used is the Jaycar IEBC, have a read of the thread on it as to why. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=61207 cheers

The turbo is designed to run red hot, the gearbox isn't. The engine oil cooler doesn't work unless you are moving, no airflow. Ditto manual transmission cooler. Similarly diff cooler. Brake rotors get hot spots and warp unless they are turning while cooling down Basically sitting there with the engine idling does nothing for everything else and very very little for the turbo. Do a lap of the block to cool it down, it's better for your car. cheers

PM sent cheers

Repeat of similar posts for many years............ Turbo Timer…..YUK What do you want one of those for? They are just an easy place for someone to steal your car. Ooooo, I have to cool the turbo down after I thrash it. Yeh, but what about the gearbox, didn’t you thrash it at the same time? Oooooo, better buy a gearbox timer What about the diff, didn’t you thrash it at the same time? Oooooo, better buy a diff timer If you were really driving fast enough to heat up the turbo then you probably used the brakes it to stop in the driveway. Oooooo, better buy a brake timer Surely it makes more sense to do a lap of the block to cool the whole lot down. Not just the turbo, idling in the driveway. cheers

The Group Buy thread is the best place to start http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85592 Then PM me if you have any questions. cheers

The oil flow restrictor is in the inlet fitting in the turbo core. Supply pipework size is irrelevant, ie; the restrictor is smaller than the smallest pipework you could buy. Cheers

I posted up this thread a while back in the Stagea section, it might come in useful if you want to DIY http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=73824 cheers

89-90 models are lighter. cheers

Lack of RPM has nothing to do with the clutch. Take it back to the workshop that fitted the turbo and get them to fix what they stuffed up. cheers

I currently have 4 guys with Buddy Club suspension in their Skylines that I am supplying softer spring rates to in an attempt to get them some ride comfort. cheers

I can confirm that standard S1 Stagea wheels will NOT clear R33GTST 4 spot Sumitomo callipers. cheers

Lots of Skylines/Stagea in the Shire, I have 3. cheers

Put us down for 2, SK and SOSK. Let me know when you need money. If the R32GTST isn't going full song by then, I will give up. cheers

Bilstein have asked me to come along and answer any specific Skyline questions. Looking forward to catching up with the guys that I haven't already met. cheers PS; hope that doesn't cause too big reduction in numbers

Not a good idea, for a start there is no fuel cut on R32/33/34's. All a fuel cut defeater does is clamp the maximum voltage that the ECU sees from the AFM. This can mean drastic lean running if not set up correctly. I suggest you do a search and have a read; "Sydneykid" "+rich +retard +mapping" "any date" "posts" cheers

A Whiteline rear camber kit is $123 on the Group Buy (plus fitting), premature wearing out of the inside of rear tyres costs a lot more than that. cheers

Kings Lows are OK, but I am not a fan of Kings Super Lows. Not enough travel and too high a rate. My recommendation would be to move them on. cheers

Sounds like the ECU is in limp home mode. What have you been doing recently under the bonnet recently? Knocked the AFM plug perhaps? Anyone around your area got a consult reader? That will enable you to check the sensors and identify the problem. cheers

My experience tells me #1 cylinder letting go is not likely to be oil surge related. The only time I have seen #1 (or #2) let go was due to rod bolt breakage. The RB30 thread has some pictures of the dry sump arrangement by R33racer. You can of course leave your sump the way it is and simply plumb in 2 dash 8 fittings for the scavenge pumps. One moire at the rear of the cylinder for the 3rd scavenge stage and its done. Most of us have used the air con compressor bracket on the LHS of the engine as a mountimg point for a 4 stage pump, like the Peterson 03-4201 Left Side, Twin Blade, Std Pressure This is a 3 stage RHS, I can't find my picture of a 4 stage LHS, but it give you the idea The crank spins clockwise, so the best place for the sump valley is on the RHS of the engine, with the scavenge lines going under the sump from the pump. This is a Chevy dry sump pan utilising that same logic

You guess is not too bad, I would agree 1.25 mm is the go. cheers