Sydneykid

I will pay you $180 for just the standard stut tops if you want to sell them separately. If you won't separate the standard suspension then I will pay you $150 for it. I only need the strut tops and the whole suspension will cost me $30 more to ship to Sydney, hence the lower price. cheers

Have you considered simply polishing the combustion chambers, no risk weakening pistons, lowers the compression ratio and polishing decreases the detonation potential on its own. cheers

PM Sent cheers

Note for R32's only; Tomei Kit = 2 thick washers and a interceptor box so the HICAS dash warning light doesn't come on. Cheaper solution, buy 2 thick washers from the hardware store and unplug the warning light at the HICAS computer under the rear parcel shelf. Better solution = Whiteline eliminator kit which has the hydraulic bypas pipe so no electronic tricks required Cheaper solution = GTRGeoff's kit or check out the Group Buy and unplug the warning light at the HICAS computer under the rear parcel shelf. Best solution = as per above, plus remove all the hydraulic crap (do a search of the FAQ for instructions). For R33's and R34's No Tomei kit is available Best solution = GTRGeoff's solid rear steering rack replacement kit or check out the Group Buy, do a search of the FAQ for instructions. cheers

A simply summary; Group Buy Bilstein shocks with standard springs - almost standard ride comfort, better handling and around 25 mm lowering (max). No camber correction kits usually required. Group Buy Bilstein shocks with Whiteline springs - sporty ride, not uncomfortable, better handling again and around 40 mm lowering (recommended). You will need camber correction kits at the recommended height. The full Group Buy kit = sporty ride, not uncomfortable, superb handling and around 40 mm lowering (recommended). cheers

Is anybody seriously telling Muzz93GTST that he should get a GReddy inlet manifold/plenum when he has a STANDARD TURBO and a STANDARD ECU? cheers

Nope, it's for using a wide flange drive oil pump on a narrow flange crank eg; R32GTR N1 oil pump on an RB20/25/30 or early RB26 crank. cheers

We use Hollinger sequentials in the Hollinger case with the standard transfer case (4wd) or without (2wd) wherever the regs allow, I have never seen a PPG sequential. You need an RB30, the standard gearbox ratios are fine with their power spread. At the worst (2nd to 3rd & 4th to 5th) we logged around 2/10ths of second faster up shift with the dog box over the synchro box. At 30 odd gear changes per lap, it adds up to around 1/2 second per lap faster using the dog box, or the length of the straight in a 20 minute race. We have to use standard panels, no lightweight stuff allowed. A nice cage certainly makes you feel safer, plus it adds a bucket load of rigidity. We can come down ~25% in the spring rates once the cages go in. cheers

Suggestions to your questions follow; Nissan cut the guard heights the same on R32/33/34's, so the centre of wheel to guard measurements pretty much transfer from car to car. With the exception of the 4wd's, they need to be 5 mm higher for front driveshaft reasons. The standard springs with Bilsteins shocks works very well. Add stabilser bars and the correct alignment settings and the result is good handling with almost standard ride comfort. I have done many cars using this method. The Whiteline springs have slight higher rates than the standard springs (20% to 25%), so they are not harsh or rough riding. They are also lowered, so you can achieve around 10 mm lower than you can with the standard springs using the additional circlip grooves. Stabiliser bars control the roll, that's their job. Springs hold the car up and absorb bumps, that's their job. The alignment products (caster and camber) keep the tyre contact patch at the optimum for improved traction. Each part does its job, that's why the total results are so good (take a loook at the feedback on the Group Buy threads). cheers

You got it, inspection, dress up the dog rings once, the next service replace them, new bearings every time, the odd selector fork (usually 3rd gear). We have both 2wd (3) and 4wd (2) non sequential 5 speeds, because sequential and 6 speeds are not allowed under the regs. I would prefer to have sequential every time, more than halves the servicing costs. So the extra cost is paid for in year 1. We had a few niggling problem when we first started to use them, mostly with the selectors. But now the PPG dog box internals are a just like brake pads, you replace them when they are worn. cheers PS; Didn't Theo just do an 8 using a PPG?

Under way, PM sent cheers

I am not sure how to answer .................let's try this Stabiliser bars are the best bang for buck suspension upgrade you can make for improved handling. Road or track. Ask any suspension engineer and they will tell you that. There is simply no better way of adjusting a cars handling balance. It's why race cars from the lowest to the highest have driver adjustable stabilser bars. So any quest for handling improvement should START with stabiliser bars. Next is alignment, getting the largest contact patch for the tyres to the road. That means caster and camber settings. It's no good having 245 tyres if only 150 mm of them actually touches the road, in a straight line, for accelerating, for braking or for going around corners. The next most important bit is shock absorbers. Adjustable shocks are only worthwhile if you know what you are doing with the adjustments. Most of the time shocks have adjustment to cover up for their unsophisticated valving. This means they only work in a small range of conditions and so they have to have the adjustment. Bilsteins have very sophisticated valving and consequently have a large window that they operate well in. Simply put, they don't need adjusting. Plus I have selected the valving to suite the Group Buy kit. LAST yes last, is springs. Car manufacturers very rarely get it wrong with spring rates, especially for sporty cars like Skylines. You really only need change the springs if you want a lower ride height. Keep in mind that the Bilsteins in the Group Buy come with additional circlip grooves which enable you to lower it using the standard springs. Around 24 mm works very well. There are 6 grooves 8 mm apart and I can tell you the height that you will get from each groove. Keep in mind that GTST's handle best around 350 mm front and 340 mm rear (centre of wheel to guard). So what I suggest for guys doing the odd bit of track work, is to have adjustable stabiliser bars and then learn the 4 or 5 settings that they provide. The rules of thumb are simple; 1. Less understeer = more rear bar and/or less front bar 2. Less oversteer = less rear bar and/or more front bar 3. More oversteer = more rear bar and/or less front bar 4. More understeer = less rear bar and/or more front bar It takes less than 10 minutes to adjust the bars while you have the car jacked up to put your track tyres on (if you have them). If not, you can do it the day/night/week before you go to a track day. I hope that answered your questions, if not please just ask. cheers

Wouldn't that be the same as the injector pulsing used as input for the IEBC? cheers

Resistence is meassured in Ohms, I don't see any Ohms on that spec list. They should be around 10 Ohms, best to check measure them with a multimeter. Cheers

What value resistors did you use? cheers

From memory; Made in the US QA1 Precision Products are better known for their spherical and other specialised bearings Shocks are twin tube design Good valving specs Used in speedway (dirt track) Because of their twin tube design, they lack the piston area required for quality damper control on heavy cars (like Skylines) Hence never used them cheers

Can you hear the injectors ticking at cranking? cheers

A common problem, guys put the resistors on the negative (switched by the ECU) wiring of the injectors. Wrong answer, should be on the positive. cheers

Fuel + spark + cranking = start.....hence the usual questions; Does it have spark? Is there unburnt fuel on the spark plugs after cranking? Is the ignition timing correct (timing light)? cheers

They picked up the pace in the 2nd session; 1 5 Felipe Massa Ferrari 1:27.353 2 6 Kimi Räikkönen Ferrari 1:27.750 3 2 Lewis Hamilton McLaren-Mercedes 1:27.829 4 3 Giancarlo Fisichella Renault 1:27.941 5 9 Nick Heidfeld BMW 1:27.970 6 17 Alexander Wurz Williams-Toyota 1:27.981 7 1 Fernando Alonso McLaren-Mercedes 1:28.040 8 16 Nico Rosberg Williams-Toyota 1:28.055 9 10 Robert Kubica BMW 1:28.281 10 14 David Coulthard Red Bull-Renault 1:28.495 11 23 Anthony Davidson Super Aguri-Honda 1:28.727 12 12 Jarno Trulli Toyota 1:28.921 13 22 Takuma Sato Super Aguri-Honda 1:29.009 14 7 Jenson Button Honda 1:29.066 15 8 Rubens Barrichello Honda 1:29.542 16 11 Ralf Schumacher Toyota 1:29.574 17 15 Mark Webber Red Bull-Renault 1:29.801 18 4 Heikki Kovalainen Renault 1:30.097 19 19 Scott Speed STR-Ferrari 1:30.383 20 20 Christijan Albers Spyker-Ferrari 1:31.108 21 21 Adrian Sutil Spyker-Ferrari 1:31.175 22 18 Vitantonio Liuzzi STR-Ferrari 1:31.693 cheers

It a personal preference thing, some people can't stand the increased NVH from sperical bearings. Others don't seem to mind (notice), until they get into a car with out spherical bearings and then the notice the lack of NVH. The truth is very FEW people will ever notice any improvement in handling from using spericals over polyurethane. But MOST people will notice the increased NVH. (NVH = noise, vibration and harshness) cheers

With a full tank of gas and an 85 kg driver an R32 GTR N1 (no ABS) is 59/41, as the fuel load goes down it gets worse, at empty it is 61/39. cheers

Exhaust gas temperature sensor (the expensive bit) and someone has removed the gauge (the cheap bit). cheers

If one turbo is truly dead then the airflow (boost) from the "good" turbo can escape out past the "bad" turbo's not revolving compressor. cheers

Well, well the Williams Toyotas are faster than the Toyota Toyotas in Session 1, who would have guessed. cheers