Sydneykid

Sorry all, I have been out of action for 3 days, somebody gave me a nice little virus. So the PM inbox filled up, but it has been cleared now. So if you could n’t get a message though over the last couple of days please try again. For those that did get a PM in before the overflow, please be patient I will get to them all sometime today (or tonight). Cheers

Sorry all, I have been out of action for 3 days, somebody gave me a nice little virus. So the PM inbox filled up, but it has been cleared now. So if you could n’t get a message though over the last couple of days please try again. For those that did get a PM in before the overflow, please be patient I will get to them all sometime today (or tonight). Cheers

Sorry all, I have been out of action for 3 days, somebody gave me a nice little virus. So the PM inbox filled up, but it has been cleared now. So if you could n’t get a message though over the last couple of days please try again. For those that did get a PM in before the overflow, please be patient I will get to them all sometime today (or tonight). Cheers

Sorry all, I have been out of action for 3 days, somebody gave me a nice little virus. So the PM inbox filled up, but it has been cleared now. So if you couldn’t get a message though over the last couple of days, please try again. For those that did get a PM in before the overflow, please be patient, I will get to them all sometime today (or tonight). Cheers

Worn = 1 to 2 mm, so just add that. Tape measure will be OK for diameter, close enough for thickness. The comparison is with the DBA cattle dog, so 1 or 2 mm will be obvious anyway cheers

Kings make 2 lowering springs, what they call "Low" and "Super Low". Personally I wouldn't recommend the "Super Lows", they are too low and too high in the springs rates. "Lows" are OK, very similar to the Whiteline springs I used in the Group Buy Kits (350 mm front and 340 mm rear, centre of wheel to guard). If you are thinking of using them with the standard shocks, I strongly suggest you have a read of this thread first. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103158 cheers

Take one front rotor and one rear rotor off the car and measure them; A. The total diameter of the rotor (Front, my guess is 280 mm) B. The height of the rotor and the hat, lay the rotor flat on the ground and measure how high it is. (Front, my guess is 54 mm) C. Then measure the thickness of the rotor (Front, my guess is 28 mm) E. Measure the diameter of the hole in the centre of the rotor (Front, my guess is 68 mm) F. Count the number of wheel stud holes (4 or 5) Armed with that information look up the online catalogue at www.dba.com.au, the Nissan pages and match the dimesnion you measured with theirs. (Front, my guess is part #4909). Thne posty it up in the Ceffie section for others. cheers

My 20 cents; 80 mm is plenty big enough for 400+ rwkw Titanium is light Go for it cheers

Quoting prices on cylinder head jobs is not always that simple. You don’t know what parts are needed until you disassemble the head and check everything. For example, RB’s often have bent exhaust valves. Not always all 12 are bent and they are ~$30 each, so do you include $360 in the quote or not? There are 2 philosophies; 1. Charge ~$2K which is enough to cover ALL the possibilities, if that particular head doesn’t need some parts then you do OK on that one. The next head might need everything and you don’t do so well on that one. 2. Charge ~$1,300 plus parts, if required. That’s a normal head service which includes valve grind, new Nissan seals and gaskets (VRS kit), machine all surfaces (inlet, exhaust & head face), check the camshaft tunnels for straightness, bore if necessary, set valve spring tension and set the tappet clearances (including shims if required). Plus porting, inlet and exhaust ports and combustion chamber volume matching. If they are supplied, the inlet and exhaust manifolds are match ported to the head. It doesn’t include valve guides (if required), valve seats (if required) inlet valves (if required) or exhaust valves (if required). If you want aftermarket (oversized) valves, cams, springs, followers etc then you have to supply them with the head to be serviced. Our race team cylinder head guy is not too busy at the moment, so we can sneak in a head or two. He has done over 50 RB cylinder heads, I reckon he he can do them in his sleep. PM me for details. cheers

Great idea, if I needed one I would be in. I have had an RB26 Power FC running the RB20DET (before I bought the AP Engineering RB20DET PFC), so I know it will work. cheers :

And I installed the springs and shocks for nothing How is it going? cheers

Yep, couple of minutes each pad on the linisher. Or better still, order pads with less material, for example there are 3 thicknesses available in the pads we use. The backers are high tensile so no flexing there. cheers

An alternative opinion, why not……….. RB heads (all of them) are NOT as good as some people would have believe, they have daggy castings, rough edges, unequal port dimensions, different sized combustion chambers etc etc. Sure you can make lots of power without porting, but you have to run MORE boost to squeeze that airflow through the small ports. MORE boost, that means MORE retarded ignition which means LESS response MORE boost means SLOWER boost build, advancing the ignition will give FASTER boost build. MORE boost means you need a bigger intercooler, to take that EXTRA heat (caused by the compressor working harder) out of the airflow produce by the compressor. A SMALLER intercooler and pipework means FASTER throttle response So after porting, you can make the SAME power at LOWER boost, with MORE response, FASTER boost build and QUICKER throttle response. At the same time as he is porting it, a good machinist will equalise the combustion chamber volumes, so that the compression ratios on all 6 cylinders are exactly the same. Service the head, new valve stem seals, check the valves and guides, cut the valve seats, set the valve spring seat pressure etc etc. . All of which is essential for a reliable top end. Plus he will match port the inlet and exhaust manifolds, which on its own can make a huge difference So why wouldn’t you port it? Cost, well it costs less than a mega intercooler and its pipework. Inconvenience, yep you have to give your cylinder head to someone for around a week, which is not that long in an engine build. Seems like a small price to pay considering the benefits. cheers

From memory, the Microtech LT12 has the ignitors (6 of them) built in and so on a 6 cylinder it can run full sequential ignition. The term "MSD4" is bit generic, you will need to be more specific. For example, if it is a MSD DIS-4 HO then the Microtech ignitors are being used to fire in wasted spark mode, so you should have one ignition circuit in the MSD not being used. Check that with your mechanic and/or tuner. Personally I would have run 1 x MSD DIS-4 HO and 1 x MSD DIS-2 HO so that I could run full sequential ignition. Regardless, if the above is in fact the case, then you need R32GTR/GTST style Splitfires, ones that don’t have built in ignitors. Keep in mind that even with 6 Splitfire coils, you will still have to run wasted spark, as you only have 4 (3 used & 1 not used) ignition circuits in the single MSD DIS-4 HO. cheers

OK, he has done a combustion/fuel in the coolant test, so the next check I would carry out is a coolant system pressure test. That will tell you if there are any leaks in the coolant system, if you do the test with the spark plugs out it will usually show quite quickly a head gasket failure. ie; water pisses out the plug hole/holes. Plus just removing the spark pugs may reveal something interesting. If that proves negative, then I would do a leak down test. That will confirm if there any leaks from the combustion chambers. We do leak down tests on a new engine after 20 minutes running and then at 500 k's, just before we do the final tune. It is the best check of the engine's internal condition and whether or not the rings need more running in. In this case you are looking for combustion chamber leaks to anywhere. It may be something as simple as a leaking hose (radiator or heater etc) or something as bad as a cracked exhaust port. Neither of which have anything to do with the head gasket. The above tests will confirm which it is cheers

I think you would need 2, one set at say 1,200 rpm to turn it on and one set at say 4,700 rpm to turn it off. You could install them at the ECU and use the same pins in the ECU plug as the standared VVT. Pretty simple actually. cheers

Yep, I added some gusseting to mine, so it didn’t break again. Being a 100% race car, mine has a 27 mm front bar, spherical joints on the links and relatively soft spring rates, so it loads up the standard brackets a fair bit. cheers

I should mention that the compliance cat was really crap on mine, necked down to 2" ID and killed noticeable power. When I chenged it (to a Catco 3") the fuel economy improved a bit as well. Plus tyres shouldn't be ignored, I have been testing multiople heat cycles on some "R" tyres for a few months (compared to my usual Michelins) and they knock the fuel ecomomy around something fierce. Handling is unbelievable of course, but I have worn them out now, so it will be interesting to see what happens when I stick the Michelins back on. cheers

Happens occasionally, just weld the bracket back on. cheers

Nothing wrong with standard M Spec brakes for track days, as long as they are in good condition. The usual Replace the standard rubber hoses with braided Service the callipers DBA 4000 series slotted rotors front (4909) and rear (4908) Castrol Super Response Dot 4 brake fluid Hawke Black or (if you have ABS) Hawke Blue MT 4 compound pads cheers

Jack the rear end up and check for play in the rear steering rack. Cheers

Around 20 minutes each bar for someone who has done them before, double that for inexperience. It's a car and, as usual, sometimes shit happens, rusted nuts etc that take a little longer. But bars are pretty easy, not a lot to go wrong there. cheers

Based on the pictures I have recalculated the rates as follows; Rear: coil ID = 102/89mm wire OD = 12mm # of coils = 9 Spring rate = they are obviously progressive, so ~130 lbs / inch (2.3 kg/mm) on the low rate and ~230 lbs/inch (4.1kg/mm) on the high rate (based on 3 sacrificial coils). They would run at the 230 lbs / inch rate all the time, the static weight of the car would take up 100% of the progression Front: coil ID = 98/68mm wire OD = 11mm # of coils = 9 Spring rate = they are also obviously progressive, so ~ 140 lbs / inch (2.4 kg/mm) on the low rate and ~240 lbs/inch (4.3 kg/mm) on the high rate (based on 3 sacrificial coils) Obviously a bit higher than the Group buy rates, but not drastically so. They shouldn't ride too bad at 350 mm front and 340 mm rear as long as the bump stops were trimmed and the shocks were capable. The wire diameters look thicker than 12 mm and 11mm in the pictures, are you sure that is what they are? Sacrificial coils always touch each other, they are designed to do that. After a while they rub off the paint and the spring steel gets a bit of surface rust, nothing to worry about. cheers

That's the catalytic converter overheat warning, it has a pciture of a catalytic converter on the warning light. It stays on until the cat cools down. If that's the one, then no biggy, just ignore it. cheers

I have had 4 Skylines (2 x R32, 1 R34 and 1 R33) and I never heard the fan, except in the R32GTST when the viscous locked up and the fan was a doing the engine rpm. Then it made a huge racket. Has your viscous clutch locked up by any chance? cheers