Sydneykid

Only available for R33GTR and R34GTR, no other models. The specification is different for Australia, much more sensible spring rates than Japan. cheers

I'm confused, the rear lower control arm bush doesn't adjust toe. Toe is adjusted at the tie rod ends, same as the front. cheers

From memory the fronts are the same but the rears are different. cheers

As per my PM, and for others benefit...... Did you check the valve stem length of the new valves before you installed them? Did you check the installed height of the valves after you fitted them to the head? The hydraulic followers have a limited range of adjustment, it sounds to me like they are not refilling with oil because the valve stem length / height is incorrect. Cheers

R33GTST RB25DET 235/45/17 Michelin Precedia Castrol Edge 10W60 4th to 5th gear change at 8,500 rpm Ooooops got 3rd instead (not me driving) Result 1 = engine RPM over 10,000 rpm Result 2 = 12 bent exhaust valves Result 3 = good excuse to put 0.5 mm larger exhaust valves in it to better balance the inlet versus exhaust flow cheers

In tank, 2 x 044 mounted one above the other, the top one simply has a longer pick up hose to the strainer. Been done before. cheers

12 mm that's nothing. I am going to lower the RB31DET in the R32GTST as much as I can. Just have to keep that High Energy 8 litre sump no lower than 100 mm from the ground. Plus angle reduction is a good excuse to buy that 1 pierce carbon fibre tailshaft. cheers

The reason for the questions were that R32 2wd’s simply do not understeer badly unless something is wrong. I didn’t want to get into alignment settings until I was sure that they were the real problem. So last question, you mention the rear stabiliser bar but not the front, what do you have there and where is it set? You won’t get 12 degrees of caster on the front, not unless you take out the headlights. Around 7 to 8 is the best you will get. Can I assume that you aren't running good tyres on the rear and some crap on the front? cheers

When reading his posts I sit further away from the screen. cheers

Somewhat of an overkill. There's an engine block on one side, a sump on the other and oil splashing around the inside. Not much chance of rust/corrosion there. We simply paint the outside edge of the adaptor when we paint the engine block. This also coats the adaptor strips and the exposed threads/heads on the bolts. cheers

You don't need a surge tank if you are going to race (circuit or drag) with no less than 1/2 tank of fuel ALL the time. The idea of a surge tank (say 3 litres) is so you don't have to carry around an extra 35 litres of fuel all the time. At an SG of 0.75, that's a weight saving of 26 kgs. cheers

That's OK, they settle 5 to 8 mm from new anyway. cheers

What's better, lowering the suspension 40 mm or the sump 6 mm plus 6 mm for the diff and drive shafts? ie; 40 mm versus 12 mm. The only difference is the front tailshaft angle, simple Pythagoras, what’s the angle change for 6mm over the length of the tailshaft? Then do the same for the centre tailshaft, it’s even longer. Plus, if you are really paranoid, you can lower the centre bearing carrier. Spread the angle change over the full length of the tailshaft. High school geometry comes in handy sometimes. cheers

You must be using an alloy 4wd sump adaptor, we use mild steel, hence the 6 mm. If you are concerned with drive shaft angles, simply raise the suspension up 10 mm and you will be back to where you would be an RB26. cheers

You are concerned with drive shaft angles from lowering the sump a few mm, but I bet you lowered your car 40 mm and didn't even think about it. cheers

All of my questions are related, use the wrong engine mount holes on the RB30 block and you get fouling problems Try and fix it with drilling the engine mounts and you get fouling problems Use the wrong engine mounts and you get fouling problems Keep in mind that the sump adaptor lowers the front dif (and drive shafts) 6 mm anyway. Think about it, an RB20DET with cross over pipe (75 mm in diameter) fits under the same bonnet height as an RB26. The RB20 block and head are the same height as the RB26 block and head. The RB30 block is only 38 mm taller than the RB20/26 block, so you should have 37 mm free space. My guess, some people use the wrong combination of bolt holes and engine mounts. Hence the questions. cheers

Why are using such a big turbo if you ONLY want 650 Whp, as per your other thread? cheers

I will try a straight answer, guessing what I think he wants. 650 bhp (that’s at the engine) 700 cc injectors (any Jap brand will do) Single Bosch 044 mounted in tank (will need a relay and a dedicated wiring harness for 13.8 volts at the pump) Standard RB26 fuel rail Standard RB26 fuel pressure regulator Standard plenum and throttle bodies Apexi Power FC (no need for DJetro) 2 x standard RB20/25 AFM’s (no need for Z32 AFM’s) Trust dump pipes Trust engine pipe HKS GT2530 turbos Any Jap brand 264 degree cams (bolt in only, no springs etc required). Any Jap brand 600 x 300 x 100 intercooler (Blitz is the best value for money) Around 8,000 rpm will be enough for this purpose Tuning, tuning, tuning 650 4whp (that’s at the 4 wheels, on a roller dyno) 800 cc injectors (any Jap brand will do) Twin Bosch 044 mounted externally (will need a surge tank, a relay and a dedicated wiring harness for 13.8 volts at the pump) Standard RB26 fuel rail Nismo bolt on fuel pressure regulator Nismo plenum and throttle bodies Apexi Power FC (no need for DJetro) 2 x Z32 AFM’s Trust dump pipes Trust engine pipe HKS GTRS turbos Any Jap brand 272 degree cams (springs etc will required). Any Jap brand 600 x 300 x 100 intercooler (Blitz is the best value for money) Will require 9,500 rpm to make the power, plus keep the turbos boosting on gear changes. More tuning, tuning, tuning Both combinations will need forged rods and forged pistons, good quality balancing, N1 oil pump, block O’rings, ARP main bearing and cylinder head studs etc etc. Let the fun continue cheers

I had never had any fouling problems. What engine mount holes did you use on the block? Did you use the RB26 alloy mounts or the RB30 streel mounts? Have you redrilled the lower engine to subframe mount? Have you spaced the subframe down from the rails? cheers

What's the ride height? Should be around 350 mm front and 340 mm rear. Did you trim the bumsptops when you installed the springs? cheers

I have an R32GTR Nismo exhaust on my Stagea. It was quiet, but effective on the GTR (300 rwkw) and seems equally so on the Stagea. Makes no more noise than standard at up to 3,000 rpm, so great from highway running perspective, zero resonance. Over 3,000 rpm it allows the normal RB type howl, audible but never annoying. The guys at Liverpool Exhaust and I modified it to fit the Stagea, added around 100 mm before the rear subframe and around 80 mm after the rear muffler (ie; extended the tail pipe). cheers

I note the lack of shock absorbers on this list, is this just an oversight? cheers

My job is to decipher prima donna race car drivers’ ramblings about handling every day, so no problems answering your questions. The standard R32/33/34 suspension features coil overs (the spring goes around the shock) front and rear. So I am not sure what you mean. The Group Buy Bilsteins have additional circlip grooves added so you can set the height you want before you fit them. There are 6 grooves 8 mm apart and I can tell you the height that you will get from each groove. Keep in mind that GTR's handle best around 355 mm front and 345 mm rear (centre of wheel to guard) and GTST's around 350 mm front and 340 mm rear. If you want infinite, on car height adjustment, I can arrange that using Eibach coil springs and Bilstein conversion kits. For most people this is a an overkill (waste of money), they set it once and then forget about it. Adjustable shocks are only worthwhile if you know what you are doing with the adjustments. Most of the time shocks have adjustment to cover up for their unsophisticated valving. This means they only work in a small range of conditions and so they have to have the adjustment. Bilsteins have very sophisticated valving and consequently have a large window that they operate well in. Simply put, they don't need adjusting. Plus I have selected the valving to suite the Group Buy kit. This is really a technical thread, and we are way off topis, so best if we take any further correspondence to PM's. D cheers

Why? Is it infinite height adjustment you want? I can arrange Eibach coils and Bilstein coil over conversion kits (add $900 to the Group Buy kit price) If you want NON rattly spherical bearing tops I can arrange Noltec ones. Or is a brand name thing? cheers

It's simple, SR's have rockers and RB's don't cheers