Sydneykid

Under hard driving on the street you feel a bit more confident but in reality you are traction limited long before the brakes run into problems even with a quality standard sized setup, so it's not really possible to experience anything extra the G4 kit might give you. I think it worth emphasizing this point, the tyres are the limiting factor in braking performance in most Skylines, not the brakes themselves. If maintained properly, the standard 4 spot front and 2 spot rear brakes are more than capable of outbraking the best/biggest road tyres you can buy. cheers

Front = 245 lbs/inch (4.4 kg/mm) Rear = 195 lbs/inch (3.5 kg/mm) cheers

The front soft rate is around 185 lbs/inch (3.3 kg/mm) (they would never run at that rate, the top 4.5 coils would sit on each other and it would be at the high rate all the time) The front high rate is 650 lbs/inch (12 kg/mm) The rear soft rate is around 115 lbs/inch (2.0 kg/mm) (they would never run at that rate, the top 4.5 coils would sit on each other and it would be at the high rate all the time) The rear high rate is 350 lbs/inch (6.3 kg/mm) cheers

Suggestions to the questions as follows; 1. Each of the items comes with the manufacturer's normal warranty. Refer to the Whiteline, Redranger and Bilstein web sites for further info. So far over 100 kits delivered and not one warranty claim. 2. Bilsteins are serviceable, by any Bilstein agent, the valving is clearly marked, so easy to duplicate. But are you seriously going to keep your car for 100,000 k's, because that's about how long the Bilsteins will last before they require servicing. 3. Delivery is OK out of Redranger now, some items are a bit slower than they should be, but it's not terrible. 4. The stabiliser bars (at 4 days) are the longest, as we don't keep stock of the unique Group Buy bars. Plus a day or two for delivery via Toll, to most places, add a day for Tas and WA. 5. Eibach make coils for Bilstein, only the colour is different. If you have a colour preference (red or blue) I can accomodate that, I can even do purple if you want. 6. Yes, I think he did. cheers

Sorry, I am a few days behind in my PM responses, yours is the 4th in line, I do them in the same order as I receive them. cheers

Special access......you could say that. Plus I designed some of the Whiteline spring part numbers myself. Plus I have a coil spring engineering program that enables me to very accurately work out spring rates. Plus I have a spring rate tester. The bottom line is, Whiteline have chosen not to publish the spring rates and I have to respect that. cheers

Have a look at the values in those load points for both ignition and fuel. I find quite often that dyno tuners don't pay much attention to off throttle load points. So they leave "untuned" points where there are large changes in values between adjoining load points. Look to have some progression, like 15, 18, 22, 25........not 15, 25, 25, 25 etc. The engine doesn't like 10 degrees changes in ignition timing between 2 load points or 40% more/less fuel. Reversion with a GCG high flow, I don't think so. I have never seen it and I am personally on my 5th GCG high flow on RB20's, RB25's and RB25 Neos. Plus about 20 or so more that I have tuned. They are simply not that big a turbo. cheers

The truth is only standard windscreen wiper blades are "legal", as in the ones you buy from your local Nissan dealer. Non standard mud flaps are also "illegal". But no one bothers enforcing it. The current "scare" on coil overs is exactly the same. cheers

PM sent cheers

Whiteline don't publish their spring rates, they are usually 20% to 25% higher than standard. Springs are in stock as at today, but they sell everyday, so that changes. cheers

PM sent, just waiting on the KCA349, should be delivered tomorrow. cheers

Quite a few kits have been supplied, there is stock of all parts, except stabiliser bars which take 4 working days to make. Of course the stock moves every day, but no long delays that I can forsee. cheers

I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting. If it oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the middle setting If it still oversteers too much, then I back the rear bar off to the softest setting If it still oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the highest setting If it still oversteers too much, then you might need some more rear camber and/or the HICAS is still working (get rid of it) and/or the rear subframe alignment kit needs to be set to maximum traction (squat) I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting. If it understeers too much, then I move the rear bar to the highest setting If it still understeers too much then you don't have enough caster/camber on the front cheers

The ones I have "examined" have been, can't say that ALL of them are though, because ......... Those ones are made by AST, the ex Koni guys. Unfortunately the Ohlins made in Japan (Yamaha) are also called "Ohlins". Hence why I differentiate by calling the Ohlins made in Sweden "Swedish Ohlins" and the ones made in Japan "Japanese Ohlins". So don't look for stickers that say "Swedish Ohlins" Aragosta appears to be nothing more than a "marketing" name, they simply rebadge other people's stuff. And charge more of course. cheers

Yep, but they are selling everyday, so that may not be the case every day. cheers

Yep, SOSK and I will be there, in the R33GTST most likely. cheers

Not dreaming, just not reading the price list correctly, its $571 a pair, you need 2 x pairs. The Kings Lows are OK, the Kings SuperLows are not. I suggest you include a couple of kits of bump stop/dust covers as the R32's are getting on now and most times the standard ones are stuffed. It saves a couple of days waiting around to get them delivered when you find the standard ones are unusable. cheers

Try reading Page 1 of this thread, all of the items and their prices are listed. If you then have any questions, please just ask. cheers

12 psi for 3 laps = ceramic in the cat, done it twice, seen it happen at least 5 times, maybe more. 10 psi for 5 laps = no problem Oil at 125 degrees is bad news, stay under 115. cheers

I don't think anyone actually answered the question. DAYZ is a a large Stagea Dealer in Japan, really LARGE. So big that they can order unique options direct from Nissan, as well as "dealer fitting" some. DAYZ have various levels of options, although I have never seen any mechanical upgrades. More like spoilers, side skirts, trim colours, ICE etc. While Autech are the ones who do the mechanical stuff, RS260 being one of their efforts, as well as 4 door GTR's. As an example, mine had a DAYZ front bumper and a rear spoiler as well as the DAYZ badge on the tailgate. Since then I have acquired a set of DAYZ side skirts to match. cheers

For the upteenth time.......... The facts are; 1. The auto gearbox has its own ECU to change gears, up, down, skip, slip, lock up the torque converter etc. The engine ECU has NOTHING to do with this functionality. 2. The standard Engine ECU retards and cuts the ignition on gear changes to give smooth changes and (mostly) to protect the gearbox from the torque loadings during the WOT gear changes. 3. That level of protection is necessary at STANDARD power. Obviously when you fit a Power FC (or any other ECU or piggyback) you are chasing LOTS MORE than standard power. 4. The standard Engine ECU has an EXTENSIVE set of ignition retard and cut maps to match the numerous gear change scenarios. Think about the variability’s, uphill, downhill, any one of 4 gears plus reverse, all throttle openings, boost levels etc etc. A Nissan engineer told me that the gear change logic code in the Engine ECU (for ignition cut and retard) was far greater in both volume and complexity that what was required to get the engine to run. 5. Power FC and EManage do not have that logic and they have no provision for it to be loaded. Do you really think that if it could be done economically Apexi wouldn’t have done it themselves? 6. It’s a piece of piss to get a Power FC to run the engine in an auto, been done heaps of times. The problem is no power cut on gear changes, so with full torque loadings they rip though clutch packs and belts like crazy. Plus the gear changes are both harsh and uncomfortable. 7. The more power you have the worse the problem is. Toughening up the gearbox (valve body upgrade, Kevlar belts etc) simply make the gear changes harsher and more uncomfortable. Of course, the gearbox still dies, it just takes a little longer. 8. To get the ignition cut/retard on gear changes you need the logic (programming) contained in the standard Engine ECU. That means it has to control the ignition timing. 9. Hence all you can do with the Power FC or EManage is control the fuel, hardly a brilliant tuning option. Do it for less than half the price with an SAFC or even less with a DFA. 10. The DFA/SAFC and SITC route works because they sit between the sensors (SITC = CAS and SAFC/DFA = AFM) and the standard ECU. They bend the input signals (voltages) to get the ECU to do what you want it to. So the standard ECU can still retard and/or cut the igntion on gear changes. The EManage/FCon route DOESN"T work because they sit between the standard ECU and the output devices (ignitors and injectors). So the standard ECU has no control of ignition timing. I have heard heaps of guys say that "their auto is OK" with a Power FC or EManage or FCon, but the truth is I have ridden in quite a few and the gear change quality is crap and clutch slip is always noticeable. Every one of them has had a gearbox rebuild. You will find that the compromises with the SAFC/DFA and SITC are much less once you upgrade the turbo GorGasm. The boost curve and compressor outlet air temperature rise on the standard turbo make tuning a real pain in the ass. cheers

The Whiteline R32/33/34 springs are definitely cold wound on a hydraulic, computer controlled coil winder (the same as Eibach, Jamex, H&R, Bilstein etc). This gives a superior/more consistent result than hot wound coils. I chose the Whiteline springs for the Group Buy because of this quality/consistency, plus they had rates that better suited the rest of the kit. The R32/33/34 front springs are linear and the rear springs are progressive, like the Kings variety, they are progressive to keep the coils trapped at full droop. For the record, a linear front spring is far superior in driver feel than a progressive, which gives differing results depending on weight transfer and therefore inconsistent steering feedback. I wouldn't use a true progressive spring in the front of a Skyline. cheers

The Group Buy kit is definitely better than any Japanese coil overs, that 's for handling plus traction for acceleration & braking and for ride comfort. As for height, you should keep in mind that R32GTST's handle best around 350 mm front and 340 mm rear (centre of wheel to guard). The Group Buy Bilsteins have additional circlip grooves added so you can set the height you want before you fit them. There are 6 grooves 8 mm apart and I can tell you the height that you will get from each groove. While 350/340 is the recommendeed height, the additional grooves enable you to go down to 340/330 but I most certainly wouldn't recommend it for handling or ride comfort. You will also need to conisder correcting the excessive negative camber caused by lowering, if you don't you will wear out the tyrers prematurely and suffer from reduced tyre contact patch. For camber kits, this is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard of course; Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits Whiteline do not publish their spring rates, they are usually 20% to 25% higher than standard. That about covers it, I have cleared some space in my PM box, so if you have any more detailed questions please take it to PM, I will be most pleased to answer them. cheers

PM sent, along with 80 others replies, sorry for the delay. cheers

Link doesn't work for me. cheers