Sydneykid

My recommendation would be a 1989/90 R32GTR chassis, 2 wheel drive it with the RB30. Same weight as the R32GTST but with bigger/lighter (alloy) guards, (alloy) uprights and (alloy) bonnet. Plus you have the option of 4wd'ing it later on. cheers

No problems with the PPG gearset, just watch the gearbox and diff oil temps. They will be marginal, especially when it gets to spring/summer in Qld. cheers

You bet they don't, much welding and machining required. cheers

Think gearbox Michael, it won't like circuit racing at 450 rwkw. Check the gearbox oil temps, but I would be surprised if it doesn't need a cooler, especially in Qld. Ditto the diff. cheers

You have found that the Maximum Traction position actually does give more traction, how about that. If this is important to you, then I wouldn't suggest They transmit heaps of NVH Why would you when you already have a Whiteline rear camber kit that includes adjustable bushes for the standard traction rods? Also keep in mind that aftermarket arms usually have spherical bearings which will increase the NVH even more. cheers

It depends on what do you mean by FIT? Yes, they will FIT, but they won't WORK The front spring rate is too high, due to the extra ~180kgs thay have to hold up in a GTR. The front shocks are too short, the mounting point on the upright is higher on GTR's (and other 4wd's) to clear the drive shafts. cheers

With 2530's my choice would be; 264's around 9.5mm lift any brand, I have yet to find a difference cheers

Two schools of thought; 1. The inlet cam duration is what makes an engine lumpy, by keeping the inlet duration down you avoid unnecesary lumpiness. By lumpy we usually mean rough idle, not smooth cruise, cranky when cold, requires higher rpm to make power etc. The exhaust cam duration has LESS effect on lumpiness, so you can run slightly more duration and not suffer from it. 2. The exhaust valves on RB's are slightly too small when you increase the boost, they are OK at standard boost, plus a bit. But when you start feeding them 1.5 bar or so, the exhaust valve size becomes an issue. Using slightly more duration on the exhaust cam is a band aid for that problem. The real fix is to use oversize exhaust valves, even as little as 0.5 mm larger diameter makes a huge difference. cheers

New standard Skyline shocks cost more than Bilsteins last time I checked. The standard shocks won't have the valving to control lowered springs (check out this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=103158&hl) plus they will wear out pretty fast. Which is probably why your current (standard) shocks are stuffed. cheers

Nope, check out page 1 of this thread, it tells you how to measure on the car. cheers

I wrote the above in answer to a question on how to tell if used SHOCKS are OK, the additional test for strut tops are; 1. If they have spherical bearings then there is a 99% chance that the bearings are stuffed, so check them carefully. 2. Remove the strut tops from the shock/spring unit and rotate the spherical bearing, check for scuff marks and wear through the hardening. This shows up as discolouration and sometimes even surface rust. 3. Bolt the strut tops back on the shaft shaft (without the spring), then check for play by rocking the strut top while holding the shock solidly (in a vice is best). 4. Any free play, visible wear or knocking means that the spherical bearings are stuffed, this usually means buying new strut tops as most Jap coil over kits use unique sizes of sphericals. If the guy selling them won't let you do the above tests (plus the shock testing) then WALK AWAY, they are most likely useless. cheers

I wrote the above in the ShockAbsorber 101 thread in answer to a question on how to tell if used SHOCKS are OK, the additional test for strut tops are; 1. If they have spherical bearings then there is a 99% chance that the bearings are stuffed, so check them carefully. 2. Remove the strut tops from the shock/spring unit and rotate the spherical bearing, check for scuff marks and wear through the hardening. This shows up as discolouration and sometimes even surface rust. 3. Bolt the strut tops back on the shaft shaft (without the spring), then check for play by rocking the strut top while holding the shock solidly (in a vice is best). 4. Any free play, visible wear or knocking means that the spherical bearings are stuffed, this usually means buying new strut tops as most Jap coil over kits use unique sizes of sphericals. If the guy selling them won't let you do the above tests (plus the shock testing) then WALK AWAY, they are most likely useless. cheers

If you are thinking of using lowered springs with standard shocks, then I strongly suggest you have a read of this thread first. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=103158&hl cheers

The fact is if you are not using genuine Nissan windscreen wiper rubbers then you car is "illegal". Non genuine brake pads, non genuine brake fluid even non genuine mud flaps........basically you can't use anything that isn't genuine Nissan. Think about it, you have "insert name here" brake pads, so you couldn't stop to avoid the accident, sorry no insurance. But they are "better" brake pads, so what, they are not genuine. Winscreeen wipers, accident in the rain, bad luck, no insurance........ Check you old man's car out and find every non genuine part on it and pick on him for a change. cheers

Difficult question to answer, because there are many ways to approach the change over. In simple terms if you use EVERYTHING from the subframes to the wheels from the GTST, then it will FIT the GTR. It might look a bit stupid, wheels in from the guards a long way etc, but it will FIT . It becomes difficult when you want to use some GTST and some GTR components, then you find that things WON'T fit. GTST shocks with GTR rear uprights (hubs) for example, they won't fit. GTST diff with GTR drive shifts, they won't fit either. GTST front shocks with GTR uprights (hubs), they will FIT but it will be about 50 mm too high. Similiary, the GTR 4wd front subframe with the GTST 2wd radius rods etc etc. My suggestion, it's all or nothing, don't try and mix them, you will pull you hair out in frustation when even simple things don't bolt up. cheers

Try the Group Buy, over 120 happy Skyliners http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers

Does anyone have the pictures of the 7 Stageas at the SAU NSW show and shine? cheers

Considering my usage patterns, I actually can't think of one reason why I would personally buy a RWD Stagea over an AWD Stagea, in the real world the fuel economy difference is negligible, the lower purchase price is offset by the lower resale value. The AWD has so many advantages for me, extra weight for towing, traction for getting out of wet pit areas with the trailer attached, destroying HSV Commondoors and FPV Foulcans from the lights, especially in the wet. There's no downside there. cheers

Try the Group Buy, over 120 kits sold to happy Skyliners http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers

Hi Paul, you can have additional circlip grooves machined into the Bilsteins (they already have 1 or 2 grooves) so that you can adjust the height. PM me for details. cheers

That happens when you don't use a high enough ramp rate on the dyno. Tuner's warranty? I have heard of that before, it may be an EManage bug. But you should check the plus wiring anyway, just in case. Unfortunately not much choice for autos. cheers

Last weekend at Wakefield we ran the R33GTST with the standard calipers, UAS caliper extension brackets, Bendix Ultimates, 34 mm DBA 5000 series rotors, Nismo braided lines and my usual Castrol Super Response brake fluid. After each 15 minutes session, I stopped, SOSK jumped in and did his 15 minute session. Never had a brake problem all day, worked perfectly on the way home and since. The only issue was I haven't upgraded the rears yet, still compliance rotors and who knows what pads with standard (rubber) brake hoses, so it was heavily front brake biased. Regardless, the brakes were easily able to out stop the tyres, even after consecutive sessions we could lock up the brakes on demand. And that's using Yokohama A048R's, so unless we go to slicks I don't see a brake problem. On the race cars we have always used Hawk pads, plenty of choice of compound and not expensive if purchased direct from the US. cheers PS; maybe you guys you should spend the money on increasing the cornering speed, that way you wouldn't have to spend so much on brakes

Noltec don't do subframe alignment kits, only replacement bushes. PM me for prices. There are 4 settings for the rear subframe angle using pineaples, but most people only use 3; 1. all round 2. maximum traction 3. drift The subframe angle changes using pineapples are not drastic, however you can then shim them I you really wanted to fine tune the anti squat geometry. Although that is better done at the lower control arm inner mounting points with eccentric crush tubes. cheers

Spring rate on its own is meaningless, S13/14/15's have movement and leverage ratios, being MacPherson strut front suspension, of around 1.1 to 1. The rear (double wishbone) on the other hand is 1 to 1. So a 100 lbs/inch spring in the front actually gives an effecrtive rate at the wheel of 83 lbs/inch, whereas 100 lbs/inch spring in the rear actually gives an effective rate at the wheel of 100 lbs/inch. This is important because a tyre doesn't care what the actual spring rate is, it is only cares about the effective spring rate that acts on it. BTW, whoever told you that Whiteline springs were 2.8/3.1 was wrong as the rears are progressive, hence they have more than one rate. To further complicate the issue, the effective spring rate is also added to by the anti roll rates (stabiliser bars), the anti dive and anti squat geometry and most complexly by the shocks damper rates. Then of course you have the question of what effective spring rate do the tyres like, for example some tyres like softer rates than others. Lastly you have the contact patch of the tyres, for example how much camber, caster and toe the car is running. So, what do I do to determine a starting point for the spring rates? 1. I ask the tyre technicians what effective spring rate the tyres like. For road and circuit use that is usually the front tyre, for drag use that is the rear tyre. 2. Once I know that, I use the movement and leverage ratios to determin the actual spring rate for that end of the car. 3. I know the front to rear weight distribution (via the corner weight scales) so I use the spring rates at that end to work out the spring rates at the other end based on the weight distribution. 4. Armed with those rates I then go testing with 3 or 4 alternative springs rates (front and rear) and tune down to a reasonable traction balance. For fine tuning the handling balance stabiliser bars are by far the best, that's why almost all circuit race cars (where the regs allow) have driver adjustable bars. Simple isn't it? cheers

$115 delivered, PM me for details cheers