Sydneykid

The extra capacity (15%) and the better cylinder fill from the longer stroke and superior rod/stroke ratio means the RB30 is using parts of the standard ECU mapping where Nissan considers an RB26 would never go. At 2,000 rpm an RB30 swallows just over 20% more airflow than an RB26, so it has airflow at 2,000 rpm that the standard mapping doesn't expect until 2,400 rpm. Nissan has programmed into the mapping considerable safety margin in the form of retarded ignition and rich A/F ratios whenever the engine gets outside its normal operating parameters. That's why I would never recommend running in an RB30 on a standard ECU, the richness will stop the rings bedding in properly and in extreme cases lead to glazed bores. The retarded ignition results in incomplete combustion which fouls up everything from plugs to cats. A Power FC on the defaults maps is a far better solution as they don't have the "outside the normal" richness and retard mapping, there is a more logical extrapolation of the "normal" mapping. Just have the knock readings permanently displayed on the Commander and watch them closely. If you have an A/F ratio meter just keep an eye on it for excessively rich or lean readings. Otherwise spend 20 minutes on the dyno and check the readings. cheers

Yes, I ran mine for several months like that. I used the additional circlip grooves on the Group Buy Bilsteins to lower it, around 24 mm worked OK. cheers

Last question first, the front strut brace on R32/33/34's is very worthwhile as the front upper control arms mount to the chassis at the strut towers. So a front strut brace linking the front strut towers very effectively increases the rigidity of the inner mounts of the upper control arms. Hence helping to maintain the front camber, toe and caster settings. This is not the case at the rear since the rear upper control arms mount to the subframe, not to the chassis. So adding a rear strut brace does nothing to help maintain the rear camber and toe settings. It does add slightly to the overall chassis rigidity, so I would suggest a rear strut brace as the last upgrade on your suspension list. Whereas a front strut brace should be high on your list, if you don't already have one. Whether or not you have a strut brace (braces) is not at all relevant to the spring rates, they are not in any way related. Springs hold the car up and absorb bumps, that's their job. Strut braces' job is to maintain the suspension geometry under load. no interdependancy there The spring rates I use for "R" type tyres are not at all out of place in a road car, so driving to and from the event would not be a poor riding experience. For example, you could comfortably drive from Sydney to Wakefield for a track day and not need a chiropractor. cheers

Conical coil springs (which R32/33/34's have both front and rear) are expensive to manufacture, most of which is the mandrel (to wind them around) plus set up time. Hence it is only economical to make them in production runs, that's why you don't see a selection of spring rates available in the standard spring configuration. In comparison, race coils are parrallel wound and have common sizes, with 60 mm and 64 mm covering most applications. That's why there is a large range of spring rates available in race style (parrallel) coil springs. To answer the question, yes I could have Whiteline make several different spring rates in the standard (conical) configuration, but they would have to sell for more than doing a coil over conversion. So no one would buy them. cheers

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Hi Daniel, it depends on which King springs you have. The Lows are OK, but the SuperLows are not. So check the part numbers, if you can't read them then check the heights, centre of wheel to guard. Lows will be around 350 mm front and 340 mm rear, SuperLOows are around 335 mm front and 330 mm rear Regardless, lowwered springs and standard shocks is a not a good idea. This thread explains why; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=103158&hl The Bilsteins have the rebound valving necessary to control the higher spring rates, plus they have more low frequency bump valving to compensate for the reduced travel that the lowered springs result in. I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting. If it oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the middle setting If it still oversteers too much, then I back the rear bar off to the softest setting If it still oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the highest setting If it still oversteers too much, then you might need some more rear camber and/or the HICAS is still working (get rid of it) and/or the rear subframe alignment kit needs to be set to maximum traction (squat) OR If it understeers too much, then I move the rear bar to the highest setting If it still understeers too much then you don't have enough caster/camber on the front cheers

This is what the links looked like and they worked OK since the big server upgrade last year; http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...teins_Small.jpg Now I have to change them to; http://skylinesaustralia.com/forums/upload...teins_Small.jpg That's a big job as I have over 300 pictures, many with multiple links to various threads. Help........... cheers

Hi Simon. not sure why they stopped working, some server changes perhaps. They seem OK now. cheers

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Prices are on Page 1, no increases (yet). KCA349 Rear Subframe alignment kit $105.00 There were no replacement rear subframe bushes in the Group Buy, but I can get them at Group Buy prices (ie; retail less 16%); N92447 Rear Subframe bush kit $198.00 Delivery would be $10 Total = $313 Payment is required at the time of placing the order. I can do credit card, just PM me the details, or bank transfer Account Name Jamex Australia Bank StGeorge Bank BSB 332-086 Account No 551029694 PM me the transfer receipt number and we are underway. Please don't forget to send me full name and address for the order plus a contact phone number for the courier in case they need directions or instructions if no one is home. cheers

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The pictures are in my gallery on SAU. cheers

That seems as excessively simplistic view, temperature and price being quoted with squeal and rotor appetite being innuendo, not supported by any numbers. Personally I have NEVER EVER had any squeal from Bendix Ultimates, on any car, at any track or on any piece of road. So perhaps it’s not the pad that’s the problem. As for rotor appetite, on the Stagea the TRW Lucas are just as hungry (if not more so) than the Ultimates on the R33GTST. Both using DBA 4000 series rotors of course. A word of warning on comparing pad temperature, are you looking at it as higher is always better? Saying 650 degrees is BETTER than 550 degrees? When in fact it could be exactly the opposite? It can be validly argued that a pad that GENERATES 650 degrees is not as good as a pad that GENERATES 550 degrees, for the same stopping power. cheers

Sorry for the brief answers, this thread is for guys to measure their springs and for me to calculate the rates, please post any follow up questions in the general suspension thread and I will answer them or PM me if you want. Yes ~165 lbs/inch (3 kg/mm) Depends on; 1. what you use the car for 2. what tyres (normal road tyres, R type track tyres or full slicks) 3. what antiroll rates (stabiliser bars) 4. what dampers rates (in the shocks) 5. the suspesnion geometry (anti dive and anti squat) Not normally. Higher spring rate generally (not always) results in a firmer ride. cheers

Which one of those is the number of coils? cheers

The "inside bushes for the traction rods" are the ones you replaced with the camber kit. The "outside bushes" are in the upright (hub). Replacement arms have spherical joints which replace the "inside bushes", but they don't replace the "outside bushes", so you are stuck with the standard rubber for the outside bushes. It will. Depending on the spring rate, the squat can be quite subtle, but it's there. cheers

I used the Unique Autosports calliper extenders and brake scoops on the R33GTST for the recent SAU day at Wakefield with DBA 324 mm 5000 series rotors, Nismo braided hoses, Castrol Response Super Dot 4 Brake fluid and Bendix Ultimate pads. No problems locking the brakes on demand using Yokohama R tyres even after 2 consecutive 15 minutes sessions. No fade, no shudder, no problems on the day or since. I will post up some pictures of the installation process and the finished result when I get a chance. cheers

No problem, I have done quite a few conversions to coil overs for the Skyline guys who do a bit more circuit work and have the tyres to take advantage of the higher spring rates. Basically the conversion consists of; 2 x Front Main Springs 2 x Rear Main Springs 2 x Rear helper/tender springs 4 x Coil over conversion kits for the Bilsteins You have 2 choices in springs, Eibach (the best) or Whiteline, pretty damn good, made in Europe, cold wound on a hydraulic coil winding machine. The full conversion is $980 using Eibach springs and $790 using Whiteline springs, that includes delivery as usual. The valving in the Group Buy R32GTR Bilsteins will handle up to 310 lbs/inch (5.5 kg/mm) on the front, which is around 40% more than what you currently have. The rear Bilsteins will handle up to 260 lbs/inch (4.5 kg/mm) which is around 25% more than what you currently have. The most common upgrade for the track day guys is 275/225 which works very well with the usual R type tyres (RE55, A048R, R888, D01 etc) R33GTR Bilsteins will handle slightly more spring rate, R32/R33GTST and R34GTT slightly less. The conversion is simple, most definitely DIY and should take less than 2 hours if you know your way around your car. Delivery is pretty much overnight as I have most items in stock, Eibach occasionally run out of some spring rates though. Obviously I can revalve the Group Buy Bilsteins if you are running a full slick that requires a higher spring rate. PM me for more details. cheers

Why have 2 AFM's? You don't need them, you can tune off one. So just use a "Y" inlet, the Q45 AFM on one and no AFM on the other. Yes cheers

That's OK, he will boil the brake and clutch fluid shortly. cheers