Sydneykid

For an R34GTT you use R33GTST shocks in the front and R33GTR shocks in the rear cheers

Replacement subframe bushes don't give anti squat adjustment, so you still need a rear subframe alignment kit (pineapples) to do that. cheers

Have you taken it back to Chris to check? Last time he spoke to me, he said it was OK. cheers

Refer to this thread for the current status on links. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=176396 cheers

Hi, none of my linked pictures are showing in the threads. I can see them in my gallery, so they are still there. This means I now get twice as many PM's because people keep asking for the pictures. Help, please. cheers

PM Sent cheers

The standard ECU is seeing too rapid a change in AFM voltages, you need to be more careful in your tuning of the EManage. During boost build you will have to compromise on the A/F ratios if you are opnly tuning via AFM voltage. This is not unusual, don't feel dissadvantaged, it's the same with all AFM voltage benders. I assume you will be tuning via the EManage control of the injectors after you cure this problem. cheers

Front or rear? Cheers

It's a bit more complex than simple spring rates. What determines roll is the difference between the centre of gravity (CoG) and the centre of roll (roll centrre or RC). This difference is called the roll couple (RC). The larger the RC the more the body rolls. When you lower a Skyline too far, the roll centre moves downwards more than the CoG. So you are increasing the RC and therefore increasing the body roll. This is a spiral, the lower you go the higher the spring rate needs to be to counteract the chassis' new found propensity to roll. That's one of the reasons (not the ONLY reason) why Jap coil overs have such rediculously high spring rates. Their typical customer wants a low rider, so they have to use out of proportion spring rates to overcome the body roll isuues created by that low ride height. They also use high spring rates because there simply isn't enough suspension travel to absorb bumps, so they jack up the spring rate to stop the shock compressing over bumps. In addition upgrading stabiliser bars is a bit of a lost art to the typical Japanese upgrader, so they use high spring rates to control the roll that is really the stabiliser bars job. The answers are simple, don't lower it too far (around 350 mm front and 340 mm rear is the best for handling while retaining some ride comfort) and use the parts that are designed to do the job (ie; use stabiliser bars to control the roll). It is worth mentioning that the outside tyres themselves compress under cornering loads, so you need to think about whether the body roll you are feeling is not in fact tyre compression. cheers

A few comments; Coil overs can't fix suspension geometry problems when you lower a 200SX too far. Hence it doesn't matter what brand of coil over over you use, anything below the recomended heights will most certainly result in geometry issues. Stick to a sensible height and you will have a great handling vehicle with good ride comfort. The "metallic noise" previously mentioned was a loose sub woofer crashing around in the boot and the spare wheel well, which had no spare wheel in it. The bump stops are 80 mm when untrimmed. The trimming ratio is not 1 to 1, we need to have more bump stop available to absorb the impact the lower the chassis is. Otherwise there is potential for the shock to bottom out. The theory (of 1 to 1) means that 80 mm lowering = zero bump stop, which is pretty silly. Obviously we use a ratio for bump stop trimming that is less than 1 to 1. I have spoken to Chris at Centreline and he is happy that there are no issues with the kit as supplied. cheers

Nope, we haven't found that the brackets are necessary on the Road and Track kit, as most guys doing track work have changed to braided hoses all the way to the calliper. The brackets are there on the Road Kit of course. cheers

As per the PM, there is no mix up, you got exactly what I ordered and it is correct. cheers

Yep, airfreight shipment of Bilsteins arrived last week, selling fast though, so get in quick. Cheers

Sorry for the delay in responding to PM's, they come in faster than I can answer. I have answered 27 since lunch time today, only 42 more to go to get up to date. If you haven't received a response yet, then please be patient I will get to all of them, as I always have. cheers

Sorry guys, I have answered 27 PM's since lunch time, only 42 more to go to get up to date. All R33GTR stuff is currently available. Cheers

Liz - I wasn't holding back, I had a dud entry to the straight, and the car had been miss firing all day (lambda sensor died, couldn't tune it), so I was never gonna catch you, but you were quick through the kink, I just didn;t expect you to slow down so much for turn 1 - I didn't want to hit you, and I was aiming at turn one at the fastest possible speed - to avoid a massive lock up, and or a massive accident, I aimed for the greenery - which turned kitty litter brown very quickly... and I couldn't drive it through it, it was soo soft by then Dunc - I killed it, but we think turbo seal - We won't touch it til later in the week, we need a break from working on it, dad spent all last week getting it ready for sunday Cheers Matt PS - Any pics of my car on the track??

Son of SK Here Firstly - thanks to Brad and the guys for organising - was a top day Secondly - Want to appologise to everyone in "that" 3 o'clock session where i beached it in the Kitty Litter at turn one and held everyone's track time up for atleast 20 minutes. Was a combination of sheer misreading a situation, and fatigue. Not to mention 3 months since I'd even driven my R33, let alone a car (no licence, it sucks, 4 months to go too). Fair to say learnt my lesson, in beaching it, I have broken something that holds the smoke in - now the smoke escapes.... Thrdly, one of the morning sessions, I took to the "non-black" sections of the track 4 times, not only holding people up, but dragging dirty crap onto the track - That sessions proved a half wet/half dry trck is the toughest of conditions. I think most will agree Finally, Glad to here everyone had as much fun as I did Son of SK

As if there was any doubt........ cheers

Not in my opinion. cheers

Hi James, do you want a comment on Kings springs? If so, they are OK, nothing special. Or a recommended rate? If it's a recommended rate then I need to know a few things; 1. What tyres, normal road tyres, R type tyres or full slicks? 2. What stabiliser bar rates? 3. What do you mean by " KYB uprated shocks", are they 1600 shock "uprated"? Or are you considering them "uprated" because they are for a R31? 4. What alignment settings are you intending to run at 330 mm? ie; have you done anything about the camber change when you lower it, or the bump steer? Because if you haven't then you will need ot make the springs excessively harsh to avoid those problems. Easy question, not so simple to answer correctly. cheers

Try the Group Buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers

All models of R32/33/34 plus Stagea S1 and S2 have the same front strut tops. There are two length of studs in the front strut tops, the shorter studs can have problems reaching with really thick strut braces. The rears, however, are different, R32 plus Stagea S1 and S2 have the same rear strut tops. All R33's and R34's have the same rear strut tops. cheers

Nope, front shocks are too long, front springs not correct free height. The rear springs will be OK, the rear shocks MAY be OK. You need to check whether your GTS4 has fork or eyes as the bottom shock mount. Most have eyes, but lately I have encountered 2 with forks, pehaps due to GTR rear end conversion by a previous owner. cheers

Only 22 more PM's to go till I get to yours. Time for sleeping now, I reckon I will get to it around lunch time tomorrow. cheers