Sydneykid

Turned the boost up by any chance ................... cheers

Unfortunately Round 3 of the NSW State Motor Racing Championship is on at Oran Park on 16/17 June. I have 2 race team cars running and I am chief race engineer for that weekend. So, in the absence of a quick cloning, I am not going to be able to be in two places at once. Stagea plus R32GTST race car on trailer, might not have won the show and shine, but would have been a contender for longest/heaviest. cheers

PM sent. Cheers

Nope, I know it is obvious, but Stageas are waggons. Hence more weight initially, plus more capacity (space) to carry even more. cheers

Stageas, standard, have toe adjustment front and rear and small camber adjustment on the rear only. So that's all they can adjust, giving you front caster and camber figures that they can't achieve is a waste of time. I assume it's an RS4, so 4wd alignment figures are the go. Front toe, out 1 mm each side, we never measure toe in degrees in Australia, it's always mm (or inches for the old guys). Rear camber, the standard adjusters are good for 0.25 degrees. So the best you can usually achieve is to get them somewhat the same. The less negative camber the better. Rear toe, I find that RS4's (with standard suspension) understeer pretty much all the time. So I run a little toe out, around 2 mm a side, which helps with the turn in. When you get some adjustment facilities for the front caster and camber and more adjustment range in the rear camber, the Group Buy recommended settings will be possible. cheers

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88141 cheers

Yep cheers

Ready, PM sent Cheers

I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting. If it oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the middle setting If it still oversteers too much, then I back the rear bar off to the softest setting If it still oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the highest setting If it still oversteers too much, then you might need some more rear camber and/or the HICAS is still working (get rid of it) and/or the rear subframe alignment kit needs to be set to maximum traction (squat) I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting. If it understeers too much, then I move the rear bar to the highest setting If it still understeers too much then you don't have enough caster/camber on the front Cheers

The details for bump stop trimming are on page 1 of the Group Buy thread cheers

I cables tied the filter (sock) mounting to the hose clamp. I use 2 hose clamps to hold the pump to the bracket, get the orientation right and they clear OK. cheers

Bilsteins come with standard configuration lower spring seats. cheers

I agree, poor shock damping is 99% of the time the cause, unless something else is worn out or broken of course. Cheers

Let's see if I can either remove the confusion or add to it. 1. I have never had a GTR pump make more noise then fail. Noise and failure are unrelated based on my experience. If the pump is noisy, then 99.9% you haven't installed it correctly. ie; it is touching the tank wall and/or floor. 2. Cable ties are fuel resistent, I use them to hold the filter (sock) in the right place. Don't need or use the circlip. 3. The device on the top of the pump is the anti syphon valve, it stops the fuel running back from the fuel rail and making the car slow to start. The fuel rail is higher than the tank, so fuel runs back into the tank when the pump isn't pumping. The anti syphon valve means fuel is always in the lines, no waiting for the fuel pump to pump fuel all the way up to the rail before the engine will start. 4. Talking about installing the fuel pump in an R33 takes longer than actually doing it. R32's fuel pumps are a piece of cake compared to R33's because of the accessability of the tank and its shape. 5. The pump earths via the terminals on the top, it doesn't need earthing via the body to work (pump). The body earthing is a back up (safety) link, in case the earth wire breaks and a spark jumps from the (unearthed) pump body to the bracket. I have only seen this on R34's where Nissan added insulation to dampen the noise. The larger pumps in R32's, R33's and Z32's also had insulation, but no earthing. So it is obviously a later thought by Nissan. Personally I don't worry about it. 6. The dual voltage for high and low fuel flow is controlled by the fuel pump relays, the low flow circuit has a resister in it to lower the voltage. The high flow circuit runs direct (no resister). The ECU controls the relays. 7. If you install an aftermarket pump incorrectly (ie; touching the tank floor or walls) they will make just as much noise as a GTR pump that is incorrectly installed. They will also not pick up the low fuel if you install them incorrectly as well. 8. Make sure you install the filter (sock) EXACTLY as it was with the standard pump. So pay attention to the orientation when you remove the standard pump. Don't pull it apart and then try and guess/remember where everything goes. 9. Walbro fuel pumps are NOT a good idea on turbocharged engines, I would never use one on a Skyline. 10. All the effort is worth it in the end, we have an R33GTR running 304 rwkw on the standard pump with a separate (dedicated) relay. They have plenty of capacity, if you install them correctly. cheers

My vote for a 2.6 litre (regardless of internals) is 2530's. RS's are too big for standard capacity, too laggy, no more power than 2530's on that size engine. cheers

PM sent, we can do it, you will be there, can't have a Skyline miss a race meeting. cheers

They merger doesn't affect the Group Buy, it is done via Jamex who are Redranger reseller. The only issue was the delay in supply, which is now overcome, with 10 kits being delivered this week. cheers

Plenty of guys use the Group Buy kit for drags, with good success. The spring rates (particularly rear) are OK for that purpose and the Bilsteins control the compression and extension of the suspension perfectly. The usual cause of axle tramp is poor control. Occasionally there is another reason, such as worn bushes, but insufficient damping is the most likely cause. I used the Group Buy kit in my R34GTT (265 rwkw) for an 11.9 sec 1/4 at 120 mph, so it works OK at that level. You can go to a more specific drag related set up, such as the one I specified for BU5TER (1.5 sec 60ft). On top of the normal Group buy price, you are looking at an extra $500 for Eibach coils and specifically revalved Bilsteins with coil over conversion. PM me for more details. cheers

Fixed are $195 each and $219 each, freight is $10 each. cheers

Try the relevant one of these threads; R33GTST http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 R32GTR http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521 R34GTT http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88141 R32GTST http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 Cheers

Delayed a little, I have been too busy to chase up prices from the recalcitrant supplier. cheers

I understand that, but it could be argued that they have opened the door by incorporating the "modified" engines (for higher power) ruling. In fact they have opened up the rule to incorporate "modifed" power outputs, higher or lower is still "modified". You would have check the exact wording, but it is valid argument none the less. cheers

Using spring rates to do everthing is not the right solution, technically or practically, in the real world. Stabiliser bars control the roll, that's their job. Regardless of height, if you have too much roll, then the stabiliser bars are simply not big enough. To control the same amount of roll with springs, you have to use spring rates that are 4 times higher than the stabiliser bars rates necessary to control the same amount of roll. That leads to pretty frightening spring rates. Anti dive and antir squat geometry controls those functions, using spring rates to do it further increases the amount of unnecessary spring rate. Bump valving in the shock absorber is there to control the compression of the suspension. Their best work is done at lower frequencies, like dips and other road altitude changes, using spring rates to do it further increases the amount of unnecessary spring rate. If you need 12/10 kg/mm spring rates then you obviously have insufficient anti roll, poor bump valving and incorrect dive and squat geometry. By using that amount of spring you are simply puting a band aid over the real problems. And generating a bone jaring ride and poor traction at the same time. Moving on, I read all time about how having separate height adjustment (on the shock) is somehow a good thing. This couldn't be further from the truth. Threaded feet on shock absorbers is simply a cost reduction method. It enables the shock manufacturer to use one shock body in multiple applications by simply screwing on a different lower mount. This gives them economies of scale, more sales for the same amount of tooling/set up. For example, using the same body for an R32GTST (eye bottom) and an R32GTR (fork bottom) by simply screwing on the relevant lower mount. The problem is, this only works (as a cost reduction) if the shock valving is not changed, hence you get GTST shocks with GTR valving or vice versa. This is hardly a good thing. Secondly, there seems to be a self perpetuating mythe (urban truth perhaps) that changing the preload on the spring somehow alters the spring rate. RUBBISH, on a 200 lbs per inch linear spring it takes 200 lbs to compress it the first inch, exactly the same 200 lbs as it takes to compress it any other inch. People look at the preload on the spring before they put the spring shock unit in the car, raising the height of the lower spring seat may increase that preload (helper spring or variable spring rate compression being the exception). But that is IRRELEVANT when the shock/spring unit is placed in the car. The preload on the spring is determined by the weight of the car, so unless you change the weight of the car, the preload on the spring remains the same. So don't fall into the trap of thinking that a separate height adjuster is in any way beneficial, it is simply marketing spin put on something that was initiated as a cost reduction method. cheers

From what I have read of this thread, in my opinion it's simply a matter of too much oil getting to the cylinder head. It's not blowing it by, it's simply filling up the cam covers at high rpm. ONE OIL FEED IS ENOUGH, that's why RB26's have one blocked off STANDARD. So get on with it, pull the head off and block off one of the oil feeds. Check the bore while you are at it to satisfy the "blow by" callers. Why is it doing it on this rebuild? Because you are using higher rpm and/or more frequently and/or for longer periods. If you aren't, then you wasted your money on forged pistons. It only takes a little bit to tip it over return to sump flow rate. cheers

No it won't, the shock doesn't care what part of the stroke you are using. In a mono tube shock (like a Bilstein) it still holds the same amount of oil, just different amounts above and below the piston. In a twin tube shock, when you lower it excessively, the excess oil is transferred into the outer tube. This places more oil between the inner tune and the atmosphere. But oil transmits heat better than nitrogen, so the shock would in fact run cooler, not hotter. The temperature difference being so small you would never notice it on a road car of course. cheers