Sydneykid

The fronts come standard with 2 grooves, the rear with one. The going rate at machine shops is around $5 per additional groove, x 8 grooves x 4 shocks = $160. The Group Buy Bilsteins already come with the grooves added ie, no additional charge. Cheers Gary

My 20 cents Track Only Pads Hawke HT10, our race team pad of choice for ther last 5 years * * Hawke DTC60, the new compound, slightly higher CoF with better initial bite than the HT10 * * * Hawke DTC70, the new compound, even more initial bite than the DTC60, can be a proble if you don't have good driver control of brake modulation * * On some cars we use a split (DTC70 front and DTC60 rear) to give more resistence to rear brake lock up on sharp application. Ferodo DS3000, hard on rotors, not as good initial bite as HPC60, good high temperature pad * Ferodo DS2500, not really a race compound, OK for wet races and cold weather, not as good at high temp as 3000's Performance Friction Carbon Metallic * * Our previous brake pad of choice, choose the compound carefully, but be aware of rotor build up. Endless, Overpriced for what they are Combo Track/Street Pads Hawke HP Plus, the best track street compromise, can be noisy if the rest of the hardware is worn or they are not installed and run in correctly * * Bendix Ultimate, very dusty, but good for light track work if the rest of the hardware is in tip top condition * Ferodo 2000, better high temp control than Ultimates, still testing their road suitability * Endless, way overpriced for what they are Ferodo DS2500, sit in middle, an OK street pad and an OK circuit pad * Street Only Pads Bendix Ultimates, dusty but effective, need initial warming up on a cold winters day * Ferodo 2000, better for sustained high temp work, still testing their overall road suitability * Hawke HPS, the best high performance street pad, good life, can be noisy if the rest of the hardware is worn or they are not installed and run in correctly * * Hawke LTC, the best low dust pad I have tried, still good braking power * * * Cheers Gary

Try the Group Buy, over 150 satisfied Skyliners http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...tel-t87826.html Cheers Gary

The strut brace isn't the problem, either the springs you have are too high a rate (most likely) or the you have too much anti roll (unlikely). By removing the strut brace you are simply allowing the chssis to flex more, hence compensate for the fact that the spring rate is too high. But, there is always a but, removing the strut brace has side effects. You loose a considerable amount of camber control because the chassis is flexing. Untimately the car will be faster (carry more corner speed) if youy fix the real problem, soften the spring rate. Then you won't need to have the chassis flexing and the wheel alignment settings will hold. Cheers Gary

There is no one rule, try the full combinatiion of settings and feel out which one works for you in your car, on that day and that track. Different day or different track or different driver or different car = different shock settings. If you can't feel which settings are best for you, then either the adjustment doesn't do anything to change the handling balance (not uncommon) or you simply aren't experienced enough to have bought adjustable shocks. Cheers Gary

The problem is you can't even change the windscreen wiper blades (from OE) and be "legally registered". Non genuine mud flaps and you're illegal. For SEVS compliance the car has to have genuine OE brake pads. What's legal in Qld is not necessarily legal in Vic. My guess is every single car that turns up at these events would be illegal in some way/ways and would fail a roadworthy if the law was enforced 100%. So where do you draw the line? That's the problem. Let's try the shocks example (one I obviously know quite well) 1. Standard shocks, they would obviously be OK for Street Class. They would be mostly stuffed and hence quite dangerous for circuit work. 2. A used set set of Jap coil overs, are they OK for the Street Class? There are cheap, easy to get from heaps of import dismantlers. 3. Off the shelf Bilstein/Koni/KYB/Boge are they OK for the Street Class? Easy to buy, not expensive, replace the worn out standard stuff. 4. What about an SK modified set of Bilsteins, are they OK for the Street Class? A hundred and fifty or so sets sold, minor valving changes from #3 5. Same as #4 but with a coil over conversion. If #2 is OK then why shouldn't these be allowed for the Street Class? 6. A set of new Jap coil overs, same as in #2, just that they are brand new. Are they OK for the Street Class? They can cost up ot $4K for a set. 7. How about a set of quad adjustable, remote cannister Ohlins/Penskes/Proflex with Eibach springs, cost $12K or so. Are they OK for the Street Class? And that's just shocks, what about ........................... Cheers Gary

I woud assume that they are "Japanese Ohlins", made by Yamaha. Not the genuine "Swedish Ohlins" as we use in the V8 Supercars. In which case you may find it hard to get them serviced. The Ohlins Australian agent has never had any parts for the "Japanese Ohlins" whenever I have asked in the past. Cheers Gary

You got it, 350/340 mm centre of wheel to guard, that's the metal exterior part of the guard. Standard is 390/380 so 350/340 is ~40 mm lower than standard. The sill measurements are not the same as skirt measurements (as in your previous post). The sill is actually the metal part behind the skirt. I use the seam, where the innner and out skins are joined, as long as it is undamaged by jacking. The skirts have cut outs, just in front of the rear wheels and just behind the front wheel, so you can get to the sills without removing the skirts. Cheers Gary

I wouldn't trust a Japanese run Dynopack as far as I could throw it. Check out Giant's thread on how much their GTR made on a Japanese Dynopack, like 100 hp more than on a DynoDynamics here. The lack of wheels on the hub dyno makes a bit of a difference, 20 hp or so, but not 100. Cheers Gary

Could also be worn bushes, particularly the lower inner. It won't hold the static alignment settings if they are worn. Plus if its too low (less than 350 mm), it will have dynamic camber change ie; that negative you have static will dissapear when the suspension is compressed. I have seen too low R32GTR's actually go positive camber with only 60 mm of spring compression. Cheers Gary

Yep, there has to be some room for differential expansion of the pad and calliper. But too much and they vibrate. Cheers Gary

I had a squealer in the other day, the problem was the pins that hold the pads in were slightly worn. So the pads were moving aorund in the callipers, this caused wear where the pads sit in the callipers. I welded on to the backers a small dab, then linished it to fill the gap to the calliper. It is also worth checking the dimensions of the pad backers. If they are undersized, even slightly, they allow the pad to vibrate, it's the high frequency vibration that you hear as squeal. Some brands of pads are worse than others when it comes to correct sizing of the backers, so make sure you check them carefully before you put them in. The 4 spots callipers (compared to sliding callipers) are always more prone to incorrect pads sizing, they simply have to be spot on. Cheers Gary

Dumb, very dumb. BBQ'd brake master cylinder, clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, not to mention an overheated transfer case with any decent use. Basically flawed thinking with no real advantage. Cheers Gary

The spring rates are too high, so you will need to be carefull with how much anti roll you use. What diameter swaybars do you have? Skylines never have enough caster, so it is always worth doing. Don't be fooled by the guard heights. the rear guards are cut 15 lower than the fronts. Around 10 mm a rake (nose down) is best, measured at the sills, just behind the front wheel and just in front of the rear wheels. That usually means 10 mm lower rear hight (centre of wheel to guard) than the front. For 2wd's around 350 mm front and 340 rear is a good place to start. For 4wd's around 355 mm front and 345 rear is the go. Cheers Gary

Swaybars, adjustable of course. 27mm front and 22 mm rear for grip, 26 mm rear for drift Spring rates, 275 lbs/inch front and 225 lbs per/rear Shocks, the best you can afford, Bilsteins are the best value for money (forget Jap shocks entirely) Alignment settings; Front Height 345 to 355 mm Toe = zero, if the turn in is a bit reluctant try up to 2 mm toe out each side, learn how much adjustment you get from each turn of the adjuster Caster = as much as you can get for grip, around 7 degrees for drift Camber = make sure you can adjust between 2.5 degrees negative and 4 degrees negative. Then use the pyrometer to tell you how much to run. Use the offset pins in the upright to get the 2.5 degrees negative, then the adjustable strut top for quick changes at the track. Rear Height = 340 to 350 mm, adjust the rear height to achieve the desired weight transfer to the front outside tyre Toe = zero for grip, 3 mm toe out for drift, learn how much adjustment you get from each degree of rotation of the adjuster Camber = make sure you can adjust between 1.5 degrees negative and 2.5 degrees negative. Then use the pyrometer to tell you how much to run for grip. Use the wear rates to tell you how much to run for drift. Quick adjustment of the rear offset bushes is essential. Subframe angle = the "all round" setting for grip on the subframe alignment bushes, obviously the "drift" setting for drift. Diff, a Nismo externally adjustable, 1.5 is the best considering the two disciplines, that way you can change the preload. You want the diff to unlock on turn in for grip, but not drift. That should get you started. Cheers Gary

That's not particularly logical, less roll (bigger swaybar) would mean less wear on the outside edge of the tyres. More logical would be insufficient caster and camber or excessive toe in. Cheers Gary

This bit I am not keen on; Slicks = race class - no problems, it's primary task is a go faster mod. Stripped = race class - no problems, it's primary task is a go faster mod. Cage = race class - PROBLEM, it's primary task is driver safety. I don't think you should end up in the race class just because you want to be safe. Cheers Gary

CHRISTMAS TRADING We will be closed from the 21st December until 21st January. I'm going on holidays, and all group buys will be held off until I return. PLEASE try to not fill up the PM inbox before I return, and try to PM me after I get back so I can help you all out as soon as possible. I will not empty the inbox during this time, nor will I answer any PMs. Cheers Matt

CHRISTMAS TRADING We will be closed from the 21st December until 21st January. I'm going on holidays, and all group buys will be held off until I return. PLEASE try to not fill up the PM inbox before I return, and try to PM me after I get back so I can help you all out as soon as possible. I will not empty the inbox during this time, nor will I answer any PMs. Cheers Matt

CHRISTMAS TRADING We will be closed from the 21st December until 21st January. I'm going on holidays, and all group buys will be held off until I return. PLEASE try to not fill up the PM inbox before I return, and try to PM me after I get back so I can help you all out as soon as possible. I will not empty the inbox during this time, nor will I answer any PMs. Cheers Matt

I don't mate, sorry

Should also be noted I can do Noltec gear as well

If you want my opinions, PM me, I'll explain anything. And I use the street kit in my R33 - no adjustable arms etc. I could easily put them in and, and a lot of people expect me to use them, but they just aren't required, nor suit daily driving. The daily driver street kit was developed to be just that - we have no "ties" with anone, we used the best of the best to achieve the best possible result. Matt

I'm in, just make sure it doesn't clash with a CAMS NSW State Championship round. I don't care what the regs are, we'll have a blast anyway. Oran Park GP circuit would be nice. I think we can round up some sponsorship pretty easily and get a magazine or two interested. Cheers Gary

So that's 1, I can show you 30 or so that didn't make it. Roll the dice if you like, but don't be surprised when it comes up snake eyes. Back on topic, an RB30/26 with 500 bhp in a 1200 kgs R32GTST won't have any problems with minor mismatches in turbos to manifolds, split pulse or not. You would be hard pressed to even feel it, even if you totally stuffed up all of the choices. Search for the cheapest GT30 combo (ball bearing core of course) with a China T3 flanged manifold and stick it on. Make sure you support the turbo's weight with some bracing, the manifold will be OK then. I guarantee that the tune will make more difference as 3 litres of exhaust pulse covers up for many sins. Cheers Gary