Sydneykid

From memory our current emmisions requirements are equivalent to Euro 2 via ADR79/01. Since the 35GTR will be sold in Europe it will obviously have to pass Euro 2 standards to be elligible there. The currently available (JDM) 35GTR may only pass the Japanese standards, not the Euro standard. But I don't see that as an issue as it will have to eventually, so it may simply be a matter of uploading or changing the ECU and perhaps fitting some Euro standard (fast warm up) cats. None of which is a big deal. Obviously if it goes on sale in Australia then it will simply be a matter of duplicating what is done to the Ozzie version. As an asside, the major problem with passing Euro 2 emmisions that I have seen with JDM vehicles (M35 Stagea being one of them) is cold start and run. The cat/cats simply don't warm up fast enough. When the engine is warm (but not yet up to running temperature) they are OK, but only just. Once the engine is up to operating temperature they have no problems at all. Personally, I will be waiting until the 35GTR's are on sale in Europe before I order mine. Cheers Gary

O5U = RB26 Check the stroke of the crank, slip it back into the block and measure it, RB26 = 73.7 mm 83 mm bore X 73.7 mm stroke = 2394 cc's Cheers Gary

Same result at Philip Island., 1.5 seconds faster there Yes, with my normal valving specs, they did have my usual coil over conversion with Eibach coils They shouldn't be using shocks to control roll anyway, that's the swaybar's job. They had been back to Fulcrums 6 times for improvement, with 8 spring rates tried. Obviously Harry, you and I can tell the difference and have enough knowledge and experience to determine what works and what doesn't. We know which way to adjust them to achieve the desired result etc etc. But how many people of SAU have that sort of experience and knowledge? They would be much better off with a package that is a simple bolt on, knowing that it can do the job, day in day out circuit, drag or road. I bet 7 or 8 of the cars in front of it had Bilsteins or Boge (Sachs), from memory 2 x STis, they come standard with Bilsteins 5 x Porsches of various models, 2 I know of with Bilsteins and 1 with quad adjustable Sach, the rest with Cup style Sach. Rick ran his usual preference of Proflex, which he is also using at the 24 Hours of Spa I don't know what shocks the Lambo had in it, Koni I think Stokel changed the Mini from Sach (2006) to Ohlins (2007) from memory That about covers the Top 10. Maybe he would have finished higher up with a better choice, who knows. But Harry, you can drive, which as we all know is a big factor in the wet. Plus the super streets in your car are not the same as the super streets in Skylines, so any comparison is meaningless. We get good results from the Teins we use as well, but not in Skylines. Keeping in mind that the ones we use cost about 5 times what Super Streets do, as we both know sophistication in shock valving costs, you get what you pay for. Cheers Gary

I certainly know better and I have tried many sets of Teins in many cars. In fact one of our team race cars (not a Skyline) has a set of N1 Teins in it for the Bathurst 12 Hour. In some cars they work, and in others they don't. I have changed 8 Nissans so far (not all Skylines) over from Teins to Bilsteins and all of them have recorded faster laps times. For example a 225 rwkw200SX road car, Wakefield Park, 1.06 using Bilsteins down from 1.09 using Teins. At the same time they have better ride comfort and don't require intimate knowledge of damper adjustment effects. Anytime you want to try a back to back test let me know. Cheers Gary

How high (low) is it? Centre of wheel to guard should not be less than 350 mm for the best handling. You can get additional circlip grooves machined into the Ohlins same as Bilsteins. I use 8mm separation with 5 additonal grooves for 50mm of height adjustment. BTW, good luck geting the (Japanese) Ohlins serviced. Cheers Gary

The life of a spring is directly proportional to how well the shock absorber controls it. A correctly specified spring (rate, free height and frequency) used with an appropriately valved shock will last virtually forever. So whoever told you that Kings springs won't last should be ignored in future as they have no idea. BTW, R32/33/34's have coilovers standard. Try the Group Buy thread as it has some useful info on what does what in Skyline suspension and comments from some of the over 150 happy Skyliners who have kits. Cheers Gary

Most people find the Japanese spec Teins to be too harsh, so be careful in your choices. Adjusting the rebound damping has almost zerro effect on the ride comfort, so shock adjustablility won't help you. Cheers Gary

I have fixed the link in thre Group Buy thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...lin-t85592.html The recommended settings are also in the Stagea Suspension thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ion-t53079.html Cheers Gary

Any SLD (Speed Limit Defencer) will work, I use the generic HKS one. When looking for Stagea parts try; R33GTST for the engine if it's an S1 and R34GTT if it's a S2 Automatic gearbox is the same as R33GTST if it's an S1 and R34GTT if it's a S2 Manual gearbox is the same as R33GS4 if it's an S1 and R33GTR if it's a S2 ATTESA is the same as R33GTR etc etc I have yet ro find one mechanical part (not trim or body panels) that isn't the same as some model of Skyline, usually R33 or R34. Cheers Gary

What's that got to do with it? They don't have a torque converter, so they are a manual. How you change gear is irrelevant. Cheers Gary

They are all manuals. Cheers Gary

Try this thread for some more photos; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ph...l&hl=Gibson Cheers Gary

They work just fine, slide it in between the upright (hub) and the lower control arm with each of the forks on either side of the ball joint. From the rear is the easiest. As has been previously suggested, leave the spring/shock unit in until you have the ball joint cracked as it holds the upright in place while you work. Cheers Gary

Any molly based grease is fine. Cheers Gary

Over 150 Skylines with the Group Buy kits dissagree with you. Cheers Gary

Hi Corey, there is no bush at the inner lower control joint on the front of an R32GTR. It's a ball joint. If it is the inner lower control joint on the rear, then the Noltec part number is N62012,. the SuperPro part number is SPF1639. I can get either of them for you, just PM me. Cheers Gary

The suspension geometry and drive shaft angles determins how much you can lower it, not what brand pf spring/shocks you choose. Cheers Gary

They have a clutch, in fact they have 2 clutches, well now that I think about it, they actually have 3 clutches, but let's leave the ATTESA clutch pack out of it for a moment. The gearbox clutches are actuated by solenoids, so it would be simple to incorporate a switch that disengages the clutches. Simply put another paddle on the steering wheel that switchs the solenoids on while you hold it in. If you really wanted to, you could put a switch on the floor where the clutch pedal normally goes, hold it down like a normal clutch pedal to dissengage. Or you could use a strain switch on the gearlever like we do in the V8 SuperCars. You could also have a another switch for dissengaging the ATTESA clutch pack, or maybe the reverse, a switch for engaging the ATTESA. Turn it on when you want traction to pass. With the electronic/hydraulic drive train actuation there is almost no limit to how clever you can be. Properly thought out, an R35GTR would make all other drift cars obsolete. Cheers Gary

From memory, 24 mm solid front adjustable and 22 mm solid rear adjustable. Minimum adjustment is equivalent to a 27 mm hollow bar, with 6 steps of around 8% increase each on the front. The rear is equivalent to a 24 mm hollow bar, with 3 steps of around 12% increase each on the front. All the Jap hollow bars I have tried are grossly underdone. As an example, we swapped John's 300ZX hollow bars for some solid bars, backed off the spring rates a bit and it was 1.5 seconds a lap faster at Philip Island. Cheers Gary

Precisley what I was saying, with adjustable stabiliser bars you could have tuned the handling for the short AND the long track. You are stuck with the spring rate, no adjustment there. Cheers gary

For the benfit of the guys that didn't see the original posts when you asked this question. I would suggest building some anti dive into the front geometry, which is rather simple to do if you have garage fabrication skills. Make some spacers for the front radius rod mounts and space them down from the subframe. We use 3 mm and 5 mm alloy, stacked to achieve the amount of anti dive we require. Some tracks need more than others of course. Since braking is a low velocity action, you would also be much better off with more bump valving than heavier springs. That way you only have the heavier compression damping when you need it (under brakes) and not when you don't need it for traction in corners over the ripples and bumps. There is always more grip available with softer spring rates than there is with excessive spring rates. A recent example, last Tuesday we were at Oran Park testing for the 12 Hour (not a Skyline). For a number of reasons, we are using Jap Spec N1 double adjustable dampers so I ordered them with the SOFTEST spring rate available. Just in case, I brought along 3 sets of locally sourced spring rates, being 10%, 20% and 30% softer. The car was over a second faster on the softest of my choices than it was with the softest rate availabe from Japan. These days Oran Park is rather bumpy, and with the Jap spring rates I just couldn't get enough stiffness out of it even on zero bump setting. With the softest spring rate I could actuallly use the bump valving adjustment to fine tune the handling. My rule is simple, I specify the softest spring rate that I can and then use the other tools at my disposal (anti roll bars, shock valving, anti dive and anti squat geometry etc etc). If I run out of other tools, then I reluctantly reach for a higher spring rate. So higher spring rates are not the first thing I reach for, they are the last. Cheers Gary

Front GTR (4wd) bar won't fit a GTST (2wd), plus it is too soft a rate. Cheers Gary

Some of the more subtle tricks; On the GTR's we jack them up and warm up the brakes (front and rear) and the transmission before every outing. They never leave the pits with cold brakes. On a RWD you can only do the rears, but it is better than nothing. FWD obviously works well too. We stick covers on the wheels to retain the heat between runs, helps warm up the tyres as well as the brakes. We never pull in to the pits and sit there chatting to people through the window, while the hot spots do their job. Every track day I see it, drives me crazy. Temperature paint is your best friend, use it often. Don't buy the highest temperature brake pad you can find, anything much over 750 degrees is going to kill a cast rotor. On the pit outage the drivers know to drag the brakes, left foot braking while accelerating, helps warm up the tyres as well as the brakes. Cheers Gary

As I have said many times, I have no idea why some guys have so much problem with brakes on Skylines. We have never cracked a DBA rotor like you guys do, why do you think that is? Maybe we simply don't use the brakes as much because the difference between our corner speed and our straight line speed isn't as great. Perhaps because we have a strict running in regimine. Maybe it's because we have a controled cool down procedure to prevent hot spots. Or it's because we use lower temperature pads, so the rotors don't overheat. Ducting perhaps or heat shield removal. Maybe you need to look at what you are doing that causes them to crack, rather than buying bigger and better (more expensive) rotors that might still crack anyway. Cheers Gary

In the 32 length (short) there is only the GTR shocks with the fork at the bottom, everything else I have seen has eyes. There is very little difference in the rear weight of a GTR compared to a GTST, all the extra weight is in the front. So GTR shocks would be fine. Why don't you just swap the bottom mount over from eye to fork? It's no big deal , a quick angle grind and MIG weld and it's done. Cheers Gary