Sydneykid

Hi Gareth, the rear guards are cut 15mm lower, so my recommended centre of wheel to guard measurement (355 mm front and 345 mm rear) actually gives a rake of ~10mm nose down. Rake is best measured at the sills, just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels. Most body kits have the cut outs there for the jacking points. Cheers Gary

All of that, the head/inlet/exhaust specification wouldn't let them flow enough air to rev more than that, so they engineered the rest of the package to the same limit. Like a chain, it's no use having one link stronger than the others, the weak one will always give up first. The general exception is the crank and block, most often they are over engineered compared to the rest of the package, as failure there would be catastrophic Where the power output actually increases with the extra rpm, doesn't drop off. Simple logic, why use 7,500 rpm and 600 bhp when you can use 7,000 rpm and 700 bhp? As you accelerate the car, the engine moves through an rpm range that is determined by the gear ratios. The route to the fastest (most efficient) acceleration is to use an rpm range that results in the highest average horsepower. If you use an rpm range (too high or too low) that results in a lower average horsepower, then you are reving it inefficiently. The trick is knowing the gear ratios and the resulting engine rpm drop on each upchange and then overlaying that with your dyno horsepower read out. Then you can easily work out what is efficient and what is inefficient rpm ranges to use. Cheers Gary

I don't know about you, but I have a lot more feel in my fingers than my foot. Keeping in mind that the average drift clutch has zero feel anyway. Cheers Gary

It already is a manual. Cheers gary

No, but there probably will be a R35GTR VSpec and I suspect an R35GTR N1, if necessary, to homolgate some extra bits. Cheers gary

RB26's run low impedance (~3 ohm) injectors, RB20/25's run high impedance (~14 ohm) injectors. Cheers Gary

Some randomn things to add; RB30E/RB30ET's were designed around a 6,250 rpm rev limit Every 500 rpm increase in the rpm results in around a doubling of the force exerted on the crank, bearings, rods and pistons. RB30's have a far superior rod length / stroke ratio than any other RB, this means less side force on the bores, rods and pistons. This helps to ofset the often quoted higher piston speed argument By far the most RB engine failures I have seen are due to oil control issues, then it's daylight, then some more daylight, then overheating. If you rev an RB30DET/TT effeciently to 7,500 rpm thne you will be making over 750 bhp, so the first question you have to answer is "is my power target over 750 bhp". If it isn't, then why would you want to rev it to 7,500 rpm inefficiently, much smarter to simply change up a gear and take advantage of the faster acceleration. The reason why I have an RB30 is so I DON'T have to rev it to make enough power, hence it lasts longer and costs less to build and to maintain. Cheers Gary

The RB20, RB25 and RB26 blocks are all the same height, the RB30 block is 38mm taller. 66 mm stroke x 83 mm bore = 2,143 cc's I seriously doubt the 66 mm stroke, an RB20 is 69.7 mm standard, so I see no reason why anyone would destroke it. Plus you would run into low gudgeon pin height problems. The 69.7 (RB20), 71.7 (RB25) and 73.7 (RB26) strokes can all be accommodated with the right choice of gudgeon pin height in the piston But 66 mm would require a very low gudgeon pin height to get the piston to the top of the bore. I don't think so. Cheers Gary

Yep that will work; 265 x 30% = 80 mm sidewall 315 x 25% = 79 mm sidewall But will it ever understeer with 50mm narrower tyres on the front Cheers Gary

This is the ECU pin out schematic that I used; http://members.iinet.net.au/~jay77/R34ECUpinouts.pdf The engine ECU outputs/ inputs for auto trans are 34, 35, 38, 39, 40, 41, 52, 64, 65 and 66. Pin #52, #65 and #66 are the data transfer input/output for the auto trans, so they are the most likely. My understanding is limited, but I have been told that the auto ecu signals the engine ecu when it is about the change gear. The engine ecu looks at the various parameters (rpm, kph, what gear, throttle position, engine temperature, AFM voltage etc) and then chooses an applicabe amount of igntion retard/cut from its 3 dimensional map. The mapping is supposed to be very complex to cover all circumstances (varieties of inputs). My understanding is that Apexi looked at duplicating the mapping in their Power FC and found the cost to be prohibitive (ie; no one would pay the price). They did do it for Toyota autos, but they have the mapping in the auto ecu, not the engine ecu. The Haltec piggy back scenario you describe is much like the EManage, HKS FCon and several others. Nothing new there. Cheers Gary

Are you confusing swaybars/ stabiliser bars / anti roll bars with strut braces? Because there is no way a strut brace will reduce roll. Cheers Gary

285 x 30% = 86 mm sidewall 265 x 35% = 93 mm sidewall 93 mm - 86 mm = 7 mm 7 / 93 = 7.5% which is more than 3% Cheers Gary

Firstly, strut braces have to be strong in compression as their job is to link the upper control arms from side to side of the chassis. So standing on one to determine their usefullness is a waste of time. Unless you stood it up right on one end then tried to stand on the other end, good luck balancing. A front strut bgrace on R32/33/34's is always a good idea as the front control arm is bolted to the inner guard. Adding a strut brace effectively doubles the strength of that mounting. A rear strut brace on an R32 is a reasonable idea, although not high on the list of priorities. On a R33/34 they are virtually a waste of time. Why? Take a look at the upper control arms on the rear and you wil find that they are bolted to the subframe, not the chassis. So sticking a strut brace between the top mounts does nothing for firming up their location. Why are they less efective on R33/34's? Take a look at where the shock tops (where the strut brace bolts to) are on 33's and 34's, directly up under the rear parcel shelf, whereas the R32 shock tops are in the boot on the inner guards. The rear parcel shelf on the 33's and 34's effectively links the shock tops, so a strut brace does very little, if anything, to help general chassis rigidity. At least the 32 chassis benefits slightly from the rear strut brace. Cheers Gary

Sorry I missed the posts, I will try check more frequently Cheers Gary

~165 lbs or 3kg/mm Cheers Gary

You do of course realise that adjusting the rebound (extension) damping on the shock does almost nothing for the "stiffness". Super Streets don't have bump (compression) damping adjustment. So regardless what you do with EDFC, you still have exactly the same spring and damper bump rate which is what you feel as harshness and what affects the ride comfort. If you have the spherical bearing strut tops they also contribute noticeably to the NVH. Cheers Gary

Done the suspension on a few RB20/25/26/30 into S13/14/15's, nothing too drastic required. Think about the total weight of the car and then net what % you have added. It is usually very small, around 12% in fact. So going stupid in spring, bar and shock rates is simply not necessary. This is the bit that concerns me; If the "coil overs" are so harsh that you feel very uncomfortable on a normal road, then the car is 99% guarateed to handle badly. Despite what urban myth would have you believe, you can have reasonable ride comfort, good lap times and fast 60 footers all at the same time. Cheers Gary

The ATTESA ECU has no idea about wheel speed. My previous post tells you what the problem is; If you run an R32 GTR with different diameter wheels you wear out the clutch pack, without really feeling anything too nasty from the driver's seat. This is because they run virtually zero residual hydraulic pressure. In R33/34GTR's with different diameter wheels you get this massive shudder all through the car after only a couple of k's of driving. This is particuarly prevelent on the freeway, where the straight line running makes the shudder appear very quickly, like in a few hundred meters. If you have a few corners it takes longer for the ATTESA to overheat as there is the differential action from the outside and inside wheels having different radii around the corners. But as soon as you get a straight section of road, the shudder is there. This is not like an out of balance wheel, this is viscious, harsh thump thump thump shudder that feels like your whole car is going to shake itself to death, once you feel it you will never want to again. If you want to test this out, please feel free to PM me and we can give it a go ..........on your car......... not mine. Cheers Gary

The ATTESA in an R34GTR runs constant/residual pressure, so the clutch pack tries to make the front wheels turn at the same speed as the rear wheels. If they are different diameters then the clutch pack overheats and eventually wears out. For that reason alone it is not a good idea to run different diameter tyres. A ~3% difference in diameter (as in new tyre versus old tyre) is OK of course. As for tyre width, that is not so black & white, it's more subjective. Personally I can not understand people using a smaller front tyre than the rear when 65% of the weight of GTR is on the front wheels. They already understeer as a result, so why anyone would want to make that worse is beyond my comprehension. Cheers Gary

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 Cheers Gary

I am not sure that I understand the question, so I appologise in advance if the following doesn't answer it. It is not necessary to remove the upright/hub from the car to replace a rear steering arm ball joint. Simply undo the locking nut on the inner joint of the rear steering arm. Then use a ball joint splitter to separate the rear steering tie rod from the upright/hub. Simply unscrew the ball joint fro mthe steering arm. Reverse process with replacement ball joint. Cheers Gary

Let's get a few things straight, I don't make any money selling Group Buy Bilsteins, so I really don't care whether people buy them or not. My only reason for posting is to provide information to help people make the right choices. What you see posted on here is less than 10% of the same sorts of problems people come to me with every day. They buy cars with the wrong stuff in it or listen to their mates down the pub who really have no idea. I spend hours and hours every week helping people get out of bad situations as a result, their wife/girlfriend won't ride in the car, it scrapes going into their driveway, they wore out the tyres in 5,000 k's etc etc. Secondly, I am not anti Tein, far from it, read back a few posts and you will see that we in fact have 2 sets for the Bathurst 12. Just like I am not anti Koni, I recommend them for Hondas all the time. We use Ohlins a lot in the race cars, particularly the V8 SuperCars, the F3 car runs on Sach exclusively. My Australian made shock of choice is Proflex, we have won the class in 3 Bathurst 12 Hours using Proflex shocks. So don't for one minute think that I am exclusively Bilstein, we use whatever is best for the purpose at hand. I feel sorry for the guys who have to read the same stuff over and over, but if the new guy (who started the post) gets some benefit from it, then maybe it is worthwhile. After all you can easily skip the bit that you already know. Perhaps if more people used the search button you wouldn't have to read the same information over and over. Cheers Gary

Protectionist taxes (duties) = 10% (it used to be 42%) Luxury Car Tax (on the value over $57,123) = 25% GST (same as on everything) = 10% So the real "protectionist taxes and duties" are only 10%, as locally produced vehicles are subject to GST and the LCT applies if they are over the cost threshold just the same. Cheers Gary