Sydneykid

Make up your mind. A 2wd GTST is minimum 200 kgs lighter, a GTR has 4wd. The Supra is 2wd and weighs as much as a 4wd. Which part of the 2JZ? The exhaust manifold is shit, the inlet manifold is arguably the worst design on a performance engine ever, the valve train gear is very average to say the least. I'd put an RB26 block up against one any day, same for the crank. That's a lot of dissadvantages that are only offset by a $600 set of rods and $800 worth of pistons. BIG DEAL. Impossible, the throttle bodies are all about response, the 0.4 litre does nothing for that. In fact the longer stroke (where the 0.4 litre comes from) is arguably worse for that. R34GTR's have the same gearbox Stock standard R34GTR turbos shit all them. Do the numbers, 315 x 2 = 630 mm, compared to 265 x 4 = 1060 mm. Let's see a full weight manual Supra do 8's on radials. What are you comparing? GTST's or GTR's, you can't selectively swap between them to score points. An R32GTST is almost 250 kgs lighter than a Supra. You can't make that up, especially when you stick an RB30 in the R32GTST. A GTR is 4wd, you can't compare a 2wd (that weighs the same), the 4wd wins hands down every time. The Supra has two strong points, rods and pistons. That leaves 3,000 odd points in favour of the GTR. I have been on circuits all over Australia with R32/33/34's since 1990 and I have not been beaten once, not one single time, not ever by a Supra. We raced a Supra for 3 years, developed it as much as we could and the R32GTR was 5 seconds a lap faster than it's best, on the GTR's first day out. Cheers Gary

I can't make up my mid; Kink before the chase on Conrod at 275+ kph, flat out, no lift off, that's exhilarating OR McPhillamy, it's blind. so you turn in from memory Cheers Gary

The guys that read my posts regularly know what's coming next............ Boost is irrelevant. Airflow makes horsepower, boost is simply a measure of the restrictions to that airflow. It is possible to make more power at lower boost levels, just remove the restrictions. A simplistic example, the T04Z is quite capable of 70 lbs/min of airlfow, enough for 800 bhp or so. It can do that sort of airflow from around 1.4 bar to 2.2 bar, but 2.2 bar will be outside the toptimum efficiency island. So the air will be hotter coming out of the turbo, hence you would need a much bigger intercooler, less ignition advance, richer A/F ratios, lower static compression ratio etc etc. That all leads to more lag, same horsepower. So why would you want to run 2.2 bar if it can make 800 bhp at 1.4 bar? The only reason you run more boost is because you haven't done a very good job in removing restrictions. To answer your question, keeping the above in mind, I would run it at 9 to 1 compression ratio and around 1.5 bar. Cheers Gary

It is worth keeping in mind that Nissan recognised the "standard" R32GTR's shortcomings as far as Production Car Racing was concerned, hence the N1 suite of parts. Unfortunately Australian Production Car racing did/does not run to the FIA N1 regulations, hence no N1 parts were allowed. Nissan internationally had a policy of running only in events conforming to FIA N1 and Group A regs. Keeping the above in mind, the R32GTR that ran in the 1992 12 Hour was not factory supported, was a privateer (1 car) effort, ran a 100% Australian spec car, was grossly underfunded with amatuer drivers and the car preparation was hasty to say the least. Compared to the full Mazda (3 cars) and Porsche (3 cars) works supported team with professional drivers. It was never in the race, pardon the pun. Cheers Gary

I don't actually have a water pressure gauge, I have a 2 bar pressure sensor plumbed into the thermostat cover which is wired to the Pi dash. Simple stuff, just drill and tap the appropriate plumbers thread into a hole in the alloy cover. You can use an electronic fuel pressure gauge or a boost gauge to display water pressure. I don't use anything exotic in the cooling systems, a standard RB26 water pump, the N1 water pumps needs too much consistent high rpm for an RB30. I use the standard Nissan air bleed system and a standard Nissan thermostat. The first thing I fit to any track car is a big oil coooler, properly ducted. I only use tube and fin intercoolers, never bar and plate. The standard radiator is pretty good up to 350 rwkw or so, then I use a PWR. the mai nproblem i have found with the standard radiator is not cooling, but cracking of the plastic tanks. Cheers Gary

On inlet cam timing adjustment? Very little difference, not worth the effort. Cheers gary

There are rear traction rods standard, you can't drive the car without them. So I assume that means you are using aftermarket adjustable upper control arms and the standard traction arms. That is very bad for bump steer, you end up with the traction rod fighting the steeering arm. Secondly, have you left the standard rubber bushes in the upright and the standard traction rod? That means lots of moving around as the rubber is, what, 17 years old? It's one of the problems with aftermarket arms, people stick them in and think they fix all the problems, when the truth is they create more than they fix. If you haven't already done it, I strongly recommend that you replace every single rubber bush in the suspension with polyurethane. It's a starting point, from which you can adjust. It is the most common setting we use but not the ONLY setting we use. Once again it's a starting point, from which you can adjust. It is the most common setting we use but not the ONLY setting we use. That's very important, you should be able to feel very small changes in roll centre. 1 or 2 MINUTES, anything longer than 10 seconds is too long to get meaningful temperature differentials. I also hope you aren't doing a cool down lap before you pit for checking? A flat out lap, get it into the pits as fast as possible, get the probe into the front RHS tyre (at OP) as soon as the wheel is stationery. Then do the rear RHS tyre, then the front LHS and lastly the rear LHS. All 4 tyres need to be checked before you can get your seatbelt undone and your helmet off. We use Longacre pyrometers, $70 US from www.racerpartswholesale.com As with all circuits, OP has critical corners, corners that effect your speed long after the corner itself is finished. At OP that's the left hander coming onto the straight, the right hander up to the bridge, and the left hander after the esses (us old guys call it Suttons). Set the car up for those 3 corners and the lap times will tumble. I don't think you will find as much of an oversteer problem at Wakefield, the 3 critical corners there are all more likely an understeer issue. Remember that WP is a clockwise circuit so the set up stagger is the reverse of OP. Cheers Gary

The Group Buy Whiteline springs give 350 mm at the front and 340 mm at the rear (centre of wheel to guard), check out that measurement on your car. Cheers Gary

Is this an actress and bishop joke? Obviously I would like 90 mm to match the back half. Length is tricky, 1m would be enough to do back to the joint where the wastegate pipe joins the turbine pipe. If I go any further than that (closer to the turbo) I would need 2 sizes, 75 mm and 50 mm. Plus it would need a lobster back welding job for the bends, which is very time consuming. To do the lot would require about 1 m of 90 mm, 1 m of 75 mm and 1 m of 50 mm to cover it. Cheers Gary

Damn too many zeros Should be 90 mm Cheers Gary

Simple, the vertical scale is air pressure in bar, subtract 1 for boost and remember 1 bar = 14.7 psi So 40 psi = 2.7 bar Armed with that info, take a look at the graph and note that it doesn't go anywhere near 3.7 bar of air pressure (ie 2.7 bar of boost), in fact the efficiency island stop at 2.3 bar. To run 40 psi, or anywhere near that, you are looking at using methanol or a dry ice intercooler, no petrol I know would tolerate such poor efficiency and no air to air intercooler I know of would cool it. Keep in mind that on average methanol would give you 10 to 15% more power than 100 ron petrol. T04Z's with 0.8 turbine A/R's are far from laggy on a decent 3 litre, in fact many people would claim it a match made in heaven for the power/response compromise. Cheers Gary

Got it in one on the rotors, I am trying something new this year in hats, I'll post it up once I have tested it out sufficiently. That's not unusual, old rotors have all the stresses heat cycled out of them. For the 1993 and 1994 12 Hour races we drove around the streets for a few weeks, cycling the rotors for that same reason. We had not one sign of the rotor cracking problems we had in 1992. Same rotor manufacturer, same pads. I agree, for decent track work, the 5000 series are the go. Cheers Gary

As Duncan said, it doesn't look too far out in any one area, there are however couple of minor things that concern me; 1. You make no mention of HICAS removal, I assume it has been done? 2. You mention "Adjustable rear camber arms" but don't mention adjustable rear traction arms. If you haven't adjusted the traction arms to the same degree as the camber arms, then you have introduced a fair bit of bump steer. You need to adjust that out. 3. I would suggest that you try more than 1mm toe in on the rear, we rarely run less than 2mm each side. 4. What do you mean when you say "Ride height is set correctly"? I am sure that you are aware we stick to around 355 mm front and 345 mm rear, then adjust the rear ride height in 2 mm increments to achieve the desired weight transfer. 5. In conjunction with #4 above, I am always concerned when I see "Roll center adjusters" mentioned, exactly where do you have the roll centres adjusted to? Around 150 mm front and 250 mm rear is a good starting point. 6. As you have surmised, the half cage will result in higher effective rear spring rates (at the tyres) as the chassis flex won't be soaking up some of the spring rate. 7. I am surprised at the low level of negative camber, front and rear, that appears to give even tyre temperatures. We never run less than 2.5 degrees on the front and 1.5 degrees on the rear. At Oran Park it's closer to 3.5 degrees on the front right and 3.0 degrees on the front left with 2 degrees on the right rear and 1.75 on the left rear. Plus I am not a big fan of infrared pyrometers as they only measure the skin temperature, whereas a probe gets into the tread where the action truly is. OP is also not that great for tyre temps, due to its long run into the pit lane, too much time for the temps to even out across the tread. Where you pit up also has an effect, on practise days we try and get as far up as we can to shorten the run. My guess is that with only 1 degree of negative on the rear you are getting up on the outside of the tyre in the longer corners and that is reducing your rear traction enabling contact patch. 8. The mid corner understeer is also systemic of insufficient front camber. Personally I prefer to get the handling optimised, then use the ATTESA controller to balance the acceleration forces. Rather then trying to use changes in drive split to overcome what is truly a handing imbalance. Cheers Gary

I applaud your efforts and look forward to the outcomes. Some random thoughts gleamed from over 15 years experience with data logging; 1. Sensors, plugs and wiring harnesses cost way more than the dash/logger itself. For example the Pi S3 dash and data logger in the Nissan SuperTourer cost $4K (inc software) while the sensors and harnesses cost $20K. 2. The real key is the software, track mapping, lap timing, segmentation, corner speed analysis, G Force hystograms, maths tables, best possible lap etc etc. That's what makes analysis possible. 3. Speed and ease of use of the software is very important, you need to be able to download the data and start making meaningfull analysis within minutes. Show the driver (if it isn't you) in a user friendly interface what the issues are and then make suggestions on what to improve. That's were you get the real benefits from data logging and analysis. 4. This is the best book on Data Logging that I have in my library, I strongly suggest that if you don't already have a copy, get one, 5. One of the best features I have found (as a driver) is the different screens. For example, during a race much of the information that I need is totally different to the information that I need in a qualifying (SuperSprint, Time Attack). One button push changes screens on the Pi. 6. That is followed by the simplicity of the display, for example I don't need to see the oil pressure displayed all the time. The only time I want oil pressure displayed is if it goes below a preset value (20 psi in my case), then the warning light flashes and it displays the reason for the warning. Displays that have more than 4 or 5 pieces of data permanently up are simply too hard to read. The KISS principle applies here. For qualifying the default screen is the shift light and RPM bar graph of course plus the lap time, KPH and boost. In a race the default screen is the shift light and RPM bar graph obviously, plus the lap # and the lap time that's all that really interests me. In a car with sequential shift, we run gear position at all times of course. Cheers Gary

It kinda just grew over time, the Datalogit was first, then the WB02, the latest was the Pi S2. I am used to them as we had them in the Perkins customer Commodores and the SuperTourers. So the software is very familiar. I wrote the boost calibration table for the WB02 in the R33GTST using the Greddy boost gauge, the Power FC Commander and watching the voltage on the WB02 lap top screen. It was pretty simple, I picked around 10 points and just lined up the boost level and the voltage on an Excel spreadsheet, then copied that into the WBLOG table. I will have to do same and make up a table for the R32GTST as it seems to have different voltages from the Apexi map sensor than the R33GTST. No G sensors in the 2wd's Good tip on the WB02, thanks. Yep, no logging memory in the Datalogit is a pain, but between the WB02 and the Pi S2 I have more than enough data to make my brain hurt. Cheers Gary

We make "special" swaybars, under the Selbys Swaybars brand name everyday for all sorts of applications. The HE sump into R32/33 is very common and I made a master (to copy) for them a couple of years ago. R33Racer's car runs one as well as my own R32GTST, plus quite a few more. I made one for Giant's GTR (that they used at Tsukuba) that clears the larger (Performance Metalcraft) sump as well as a dry sump pump. I also designed one for Mercury Motorsport for the RB25 into S13 conversion and we do Stewart Wilkin's and MadDats SR20DE and SR20DET into 1600 and 1200 swaybar conversions. Last week I finished a new design to clear a Trust sump on an SR20DET in a 1600. So PM me, of course for SAU guys the prices are at Group Buy level and turn around is 2 days from order. Cheers Gary

I have a 90 mm Trust Ti cat back on the R32GTST and it is almost 20 kgs lighter than the 3.25" Nismo cat back that it replaced, which is now on the Stagea. I have been looking (albeit not very hard) for a source so that I can make the cat forward section out of Ti as well. So Duncan, you find some Ti and I'll get it welded. Cheers Gary

I thought I fixed up all the links in this thread some time ago. Certainly the price matrix is working for me. Anyway, PM me for details and Matt will get back to you ASAP. Cheers Gary

There is nothing difficult about tuning, the DFA is very similar to an SAFC and almosty everybody knows how to tune with them. As for the Boost Controller that is best tuned on the road, it might need a little touch up on the dyno, buit I have never seen that required. Cheers Gary

Since we make them for Redranger, I believe you will actually find that the Whiteline listing is 27 mm front and 24 mm rear. For drifting we make 27 mm front and 26 mm rear in our own Selbys Swaybars brand, plus we add extra adjustment points, PM me for details. As for hollow bars, saving 2 kgs or so is insignificant in comparison to achieving adjustability. Cheers Gary

Are all rounds going to be on weekdays? Cheers Gary

The standard springs are around 3.0 kg/mm. I'm with Duncan, you won't find anything aftermarket more "limousine" than the standard springs and shocks. So the first thing I would do is to check that your car actually has the standard springs and shocks in it. Then make sure the shocks are working as they should. You may find the shocks are stuffed (particularly the fronts) and allowing them to contact the standard bump stops, which have an effective spring rate over 20 kg/mm. Keep in mind that Japanese cars, as a whole, have a tendency for being too short in their suspension travel forour local conditions. Although a Stagea is a waggon, it still is 4wd and/or turbo charged, so the Nissan design brief would have been more "sporty" than "limo". Cheers Gary

Note 32 mm thick x 340 mm DBA 5000 series rotors, ie, not a Skyline rotor. The R32GTST M Spec calliper is the same as an R32GTR calliper, except the GTR legs are 8 mm longer ie; the pads are the same. So a more valid comparison is 296 mm versus 324 mm in your case. That's 14 mm radius, hardly a big deal as long as you stick to appropriate heat up and cool down procedures. Track days can be a bitch for that, the inexperienced people just don't understand why I complain when they try and make me sit there stationery on pit entry. For additional capacity, the 5000 series are the go and 32 mm is available in 324 mm. Cheers Gary

I would always suggest going for an adjustable swaybar at both ends, they are simply the best value suspension upgrade you can make. BTW a 4wd (as in GTR) front swaybar won't fit on a 2wd (as in GTST). Recommended alignment settings; FRONT: Toe = 3 mm toe out each side Castor = 5.5 to 6.5 degrees, remember whne sideways too mauch caster can mean positive camber on the inside wheel Camber = make sure you have enough adjustment for 2.5 to 4.0 degrees neg, start off at 3.0 and tune according to tyre temperatures Use the front adjustable stabiliser bar to tune the amount/speed of turn in REAR: Toe = zero, if you can't handle the nervouseness they try some toe in (say 2 mm each side) but try and learn to live with zero. Obviously you need to get rid of the HICAS, it's not on your list of mods Camber = make sure you have enough adjustment for 1.0 to 2.5 degrees neg, start off at 2.0 and tune according to tyre temperatures. I notice that you mention rear camber amrs, but not traction arms. You will need to adjust them both otherwise you will end up with excessive bump steer. Subframe alignment kit set in the Drift position. Use the rear adjustable stabiliser bar to tune the amount of slide The stabiliser bar rates (diameters) will depend on the spring rates you are running. PM me if you need more detail. Cheers Gary

The ones that have replacement "rear toe arms" don't, which is what he asked. Cheers Gary