Sydneykid

Do you have different tyre diameters front and rear? To upset the ATTESA it usually requires more than just brand new tyres on the front and worn out ones on the rear. The inside tyre wear is usually due to excessive negative camber and/or excessive toe out. Cheers Gary

The search function is your best friend, try "Sydnekid" and "Transmission Cooler" and you get this; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...l&hl=cooler Cheers Gary

Keeping it short as I have to head off to Bathurst for the 12 hour. As I suspected 5kg/mm is too high. Around 4 to 4.5 kg/mm is a better choice based on my experience. There are a few guys already with 26 mm bars, keeping in mind that they have one setting (8%) softer than the off the shelf 24 mm hardest setting. I am not naive to drifting, after all I did have input into a drift car running Bilsteins last year, didn't do too bad, winning the championship if I remember rightly. Cheers Gary

Some of the Ohlins bodies for JDM cars are made in the Yamaha shock plant, but the internals (shafts, pistons, valves) come from Sweden. It's not as black and white as it used to be. BB is quite right, you can easily end up with nothing but a brain pain if you don't know how to tune shock settings. Believe it or not, harder is not always better, in fact the opposite is mostly true. Cheers Gary

I would add that I do prefer the ones with brake master cylinder stoppers included as it saves buying one separately. Minor point as the Stagea has a strut brace standard so i added the brake master cylinder stopper separately. Cheers Gary

Pretty much a waste of time, unless you fit some form of camber adjustment at the same time. Cheers Gary

Response amended. You can't have a 2" drop in an R33GTST and expect anything other than a rough ride. Cheers Gary

I have yet to see a "decent" one. Cheers Gary

All of the remote reservoir Ohlins I have seen have been made in Sweden. If so their new price is a bit over $8K. Cheers Gary

Maybe I wasn't blunt enough, you can't have an R33GTST that height (as in the picture) and expect anything other than very rough ride. That's the facts. Cheers Gary

Item: Quaife LSD for the front GTR diff Age: Almost brand new Condition: Perfect Price: $1300 To Fit: GTR Location: Front LSD Contact: Gary via PM Comments: As used in the BSM Improved Production multiple championship winning R32GTR's

If you can't afford the whole car, we have a spare Quafe front LSD, the ducks guts for circuit work. Check out the For Sale section. Cheers Gary

Improved Production R32GTR = 1280 kgs. All you need is money Improved Production R32GTST (with RB30DET) target = 1130 kgs. All you need is time and a little bit of money Cheers Gary

I have completed the design of bushes for the inners on the upper control arm with offset crush tubes for Whiteline. I have a prototype set in the R33GTST now for testing, just wating to finish the new engine install. Cheers Gary

Yep, almost 3 years in fact. Plus last week I had the injectors checked for flow and they are exactly the same as they were when I started using V Power Racing. I have given up slicing fuel filters open, there was never anything in them. Cheers Gary

We drill and tap into blocks and heads all the time, follow the procedure and you won't have a problem. Don't rush it, take your time and have the vacuum cleaner ready to go. Cheers Gary

That means you have too high a spring rate or your shocks are not up to it. If you run too high a spring rate then you are sacrificing traction when you need it, in a straight line for example. A stabiliser bars does virtually nothing in a straight line, it only works when there is roll. Compare that to too high a spring rate which is there all the time, even when you don't need it. Say in a straight line when there is a gap and you want to accelerate into it. What's the easiest way to win a drift if you have equal drifting capabilities? Pass the guy if you have more traction. Cheers Gary

You already have answered the question yourself. Standard spring rates are around 3kg/mm, so what do you reckon almost 3 times that is going to fee like?. Don't kid yourself that you need hard springs for track work, that's simply not true, in fact it couldn't be further from the truth. Cheers Gary

Group Buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 Cheers Gary

Jack up car Remove wheel (21 mm socket) Undo the 2 strut top nuts (14 mm socket) Undo the bottom shock mount nut (19 mm socket) Remove standard spring shock unit Replace with aftermarket spring shock unit Replace the 2 strut top nuts Replace the bottom shock mount nut Replace wheel Repeat 3 times Have a beer or twenty Cheers Gary

Make sure you do the necessary bump steer correction, moving the hub outwards enough to make significant adjustment to the camber really screws up the bump steer. Cheers Gary

I'll match it Cheers Gary

Try doing a search, you will find feedback from quite a few guys who have tried and rejected G4's The limit on height is not what spring/shock unit you use. What stops you is the suspension geometry, it turns to shit. Impossible, the lower you go the higher spring rate you must have. Springs absorb impacts, from bumps, speed humps, pit holes, ripple strips etc etc. As you shorten the spring you reduce the amount of travel to absorb those impacts. If you run a soft spring rate it simply doesn't have enough resistence to absorb the impact and it slams into the bumps stops, pretty soon destroying them. Then the shock bottoms out and destruction of the internal valving occurs. There is no nothing to abosrkb the impacts so they are passed directly into the chassis, which starts to crack around the mounts. One day the cracks join up and a shiocjh shafts stick up though the bonnet. Simple, remove springs and shocks and replace with 4" x 2" piece of timber, cut timber to desired height. Evil handling, dangerous, slow accelerating and has no braking performance to speak of. But hey it looks good, to the uneducated, the rest of us laugh our heads off. :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: Cheers Gary

That's the best way to check bump steer, works for both front and rear. Camber curves are tuned in much the same way, instead of a dial gauge you use a camber gauge. I am string and camber gauge guy, too many years spent at race tracks with no wheel alignment machines in sight. Cheers Gary

Most definitely worth it, for example John's Zed was 1.5 seconds a lap faster at Philip Island after we fixed the bump steer and set up the camber change angles. It still needs some work on the Ackerman and roll centres, another 0.5 second in that perhaps. The problem with that sort of work is that you need a quality/experienced engineer to do it, they are always extemely busy and, more importantly, they don't come cheap. Some guys have a problem with the reality that they don't get one physical thing that looks any different, put the car on the ground and it looks exactly the same. No new, shiny stuff, no fancy Jap parts with brand names all over them. Just a few angles changed here and there, that you can't even see. This almost leads directly into track testing, you simply can't do it on your own, it's a waist of time and money, once you learn the circuit. We have a 6 person crew whenever we go testing, one driver, one engineer and one guy per wheel to do tyre pressures, tyre temps, brake temps, shock and bar adjustments and spring swaps if necessary. Even then we can easily spend a whole day flat out and not get through the full program of settings that we wanted to try. Cheers Gary