Sydneykid

Nothing to do with width, offset is what affects the SAI where the centre of the tyre contact patch aligns. Cheers Gary

Hi Luke, what model did you buy the bars for? I haven't seen a specific listing for a GT4, for example the front bar should be listed for an R34GTR NOT an R34GTT. Cheers Gary

R34GT's have eyes (bushed) on the bottom of their shocks. R34GTT's and R34GTR's have forks on the bottom of their shocks. Got the wrong ones perhaps? Cheers Gary

Hi Michael, this is typical perceived Japanese drift thinking, which is technically flawed in several areas and in fact not what the top level drifters use. Let's start with your caster and camber combination. When you have opposite lock applied (counter steer) the caster is reducing the contact patch of the loaded (outside) tyre. This means you have less grip, control and steering feel. The current thinking is to decrease the caster and increase the camber proportionately. This increases the tyre contact patch and gives you more control of the front end drift. In circuit racing we run as little camber as possible, and substitue it with more caster, this is because a lot of the overtaking is done under brakes and exccessive camber reduces the front end traction for braking. Obviously not the case in a drift event, so more camber (less caster) is an advantage. You also appear to be running non adjustable stabiliser bars, which limit the amount of adjustments you can do to suite the conditions on the day. As any suspension engineer will tell you, the best and most efficient way to tailor the handling balance of a car is by changing the antiroll. That's why professional level race cars have driver adjustable antiroll. I note that you mention "Nismo Rear Upper Link" but not the traction rod. If you are adjusting the rear camber with the upper link and not, at the same time, adjusting the traction rod you are introducing noticeable bump steer into the rear suspension geometry. Some drivers can tolerate the resulting nervousness, others can't. Regardless, and bump steer at all compromises the tyre contact patch and makes consistency hard to achieve. Lastly, the set up for a high speed course (eg; Wanneroo or Eastern Creek) is not the same as the set for a low speed course (eg; Oran Park or Wakefield). If you are relying on springs to do everything, then going to different courses requires you to change the spring rates, not an easy/quick job. On the other hand if you have some quick/easy adjustments (eg Swaybars & alignment settings) then you have an exploitable advantage. Next time I am in Perth you must introduce me to your dad, to live for more than a few minutes with an effective spring rate on the street that is higher than a V8Supercar he's far more tolerant than me. Cheers Gary

I will chase it up for you today and find out what is delaying the credit. Cheers Gary

What you are describing and what I would expect (being a sedan) is excessive rear weight transfer. Stiffening up the rear anti roll is NOT going to induce understeer. Exactly the opposite (oversteer) is far more likely. If you increase the rear anti roll by say 2 holes, then you would be quite safe in increasing the front anti roll by 1 hole. If the car is balanced now, then maintain the relativity, go 2 holes on the front as well. There is no substitute for testing, talking about it is not going to achieve anything until you have experienced what the changes feel like. I can describe it for ever, you have to do it. Let's forget street ride comfort for a minute and just concentrate on drift competition. One of the things we have been working on is convincing drifters that they need traction, traction to steer, traction to accelerate. If you choose to use springs of sufficient rate to control the roll, then you have no choice, you have to sacrifice traction. Sure you can add a bit more spring, how much depends on what the tyres you are running will tolerate. But don't get carried away (5kg/mm front and 4 kg/mm rear is plenty), and don't use the springs to control the roll. Cheers Gary

Ebay, or try the Group Buy and For Sales threads on here. Cheers Gary

Why do I feel like we have had this conversation before I have never ever seen anything remotely close to 12% variance in a standard inlet manifold. Recently at 315 rwkw we got ~3% lean on #6 and ~2% on #5, with 1, 2, 3 and 4 pretty much the same. That's using 3 EGT sensors and 3 A/F ratio (lambda) sensors in the individual primaries from each cylinder of the exhaust manifold. That's the 4th engine now with similar results on the chassi dyno plus 1 on the engine dyno, no fluke or rouge numbers. Cheers Gary

How will you know if it's a good or bad design? Do you have the equipment to check it? Flow bench? Individual cylinder EGT analysis? Individual cylinder A/F ratios? You could easily end up with one (or more) cylinders lean by 5% and one (or more) cylinders rich by 5%. And you would never know by looking at the mixed exhaust output (EGT or A/F ratio) from all 6 cylinders. That's the problem, you may not find out that its has bad distribution until it's too late. Cheers Gary

I think you will find the RB25 GReddy copy will bolt up, you might just have to do some tidying up around the ports (water and air/fuel) on the head and the manifold. It will take the top feed injectors if you make up some alloy collars and you can also use your standard RB20 fuel rail. You will also have to make up a simple bracket for the throttle clable. A little bit of work to make the DIY genes feel satisfied and a better result in the end. Cheers Gary

Have you got adjustable swaybars? If so, have you tried adjusting them? If you have already reached the limit of adjustment then it's time for a further upgrade. Since you are running a sedan, they have a much higher centre of gravity at the rear than a coupe, so you need to keep that in mind when doing the set up. I would suggest a 27mm front bar and a 26 mm rear, with the extra adjustment. That should give you enough range to drive the car around the streets safely, but have enough scope for drift adjustment. Which is something you can't readily do with springs, unless you want to be removing and replacing springs every time you want to go drifting. I should also mention a rear subframe alignment kit, if you don't already have one. If you haven't already removed the HICAS, then it needs to go as well. You can always recoup your money and sell off your current swaybars to anyone with more of street focus. Cheers Gary

Try the Group Buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 Cheers Gary

The reason why nobody has responded is because this is big subject that has been covered many times. Have you tried the search button, try close ratio gearbox. Then look for names like Hollinger, PPG, OS Giken and Trust with the Janglish “cross mission”. That should find you plenty of reading. Cheers Gary

Why are you bothering? Spend ~$200 and buy a Chinese GReddy copy, then take the time to match it all up. If you spend the same amount of time (as you would making one from scratch) working over the GReddy copy, you will get a much better result. Cheers Gary

They also make H beams. Why are you machining the crank? If the bearing surfaces need more than a light linish, get another crank. Drilling and tapering the oil holes doesn't affect the nitriding Drilling and tapping for the grub screws doesn't affect the nitriding Knife edging the counterweights doesn't affect the nitriding. So what part of the original nitriding are you ruining? If you don't go dry sump (which I wouldn't on a road car) then you will need a sump upgrade. The high energy 6 litre or 8 litre are the go for RWD applications. The Jun or Tomei replacement oil pumps are the go, if you don't go dry sump. Obviously you realise that 800 rwhp in a RWD road car wil be completely undriveable on the road. And next to useless for any kind of circuit work, due to the lousy throttle response and overall shape of the power curve. What gearbox are you going to run? Tailshaft? Drive shafts? Diff? They will all need upgrading for that sort of power target. Cheers Gary

As far as tyre diameter is concerned, R32/33/34 & 35 all have the same tolerances. Cheers Gary

There is effectively no difference in the tyre size (diameter), width is irrelevant to the ATTESA. Cheers Gary

No I didn't, I am calculating the difference in tyre sidewall height. You are calculating the difference in total wheel and tyre height. We are both correct. Cheers Gary

Huh How do you measure bhp at the wheels? How can it make maximum power of 520.5 bhp at the engine at 6,617 rpm and 457.7 bhp at the wheels at 6,507 rpm? Cheers Gary

Rear = 3.2 kg/mm Front = 5.0 kg/mm Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

R33GTST shocks will fit R34GT. Cheers Gary

Front won't fit, rear will. Cheers Gary

What are the centre of wheel to guard measurements on all 4 corners? For guys reading this thread, not picking on the poster of this particular one. If you have a question about too low, too high or anything to do with the height of your car, then please get your tape measure out and tell us the height. Centre of wheel to guard is the suspension industry standard, that way tyre wear, inflation pressure and rim size doesn't affect the numbers. Cheers Gary

They come off the top of the rear upright/hub at around 45 degrees forward. Cheers Gary