Sydneykid

I will be at Bathurst from Thursday to Tuesday over the Easter weekend, so please excuse the slow responses to PM's. At the usual 30 to 40 a day there is a good chance that the PM inbox will fill up before I get to it on Tuesday. So please don't give up, just hang on till I clear some space by Wednesday. Cheers Gary

Yes Cheers Gary

I assume it's an R32GTS, if so, the Group Buy has a list of everything that you need; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 Cheers Gary

Is that what that rule is for I thought it was to keep the Corvairs out Cheers Gary

So rally rego is OK for Street Car Class? Cheers Gary

The VQ25DET I can understand having emissions problems, it's JDM spec only. But the VQ35DE is worldwide, it passes much more stringent emissions testing than Euro 2. I simply can't believe that a VQ35DE wouldn't pass easily. So is it more a matter of no one trying YET? Cheers Gary

GTR shocks won't fit, front = too short, rear = wrong bottom mount. On the other hand GTST will be fine. Cheers Gary

Strut braces are usually the same, just be careful, some GTR front ones don't clear the RB20 plenum. Cheers Gary

EOI's emailed, so we're in, R33GTST with RB25DET in Road Class for Matt and R32GTST with RB31DET in Open Class for me. Should be fun . Cheers Gary

The pictures look like around 330 to 340 mm front and 320 to 330 mm rear. Which is too low, 355 mm front and 345 mm rear is as low as I would go if you want decent handling ansd some ride comfort. The geometry of ther Stagea suspension is set up for the standard height, which is around 395 mm front and 385 mm rear. What you may be feeling is the excessive geometry effect, the rear wheels in particular with both camber and toe changes angles being exacerbated by the low ride height. Try raising in it up see what difference you feel. At that height it would have been necessary for you to trim the bumps stops, by at least 10 mm. If you haven't done that, then what you may be feeling is rebound back off from the bump stops when the suspension travel required (to absorb the impact) is greater than the available travel. The bump stop rate is typically 10 to 20 times that of the spring rate and the shocks simply can't dampen that sort of change in rate. This feels like inadequate damping. Try raising in it up see what difference you feel. As for the roll problem mentioned by ssshonky, by reducing the ride height so much you have lowered the roll centres (CoR), particularly the rear, to below ground level ie; around 150 mm from standard. But you have lowered the centre of gravity (CoG) by only 60 mm. Hence you have increased the Roll Couple (RC) by 90 mm or so. A larger RC means more roll, so what you may be feeling is more body roll in corners caused once again by the excessive lowering. Try raising in it up see what difference you feel. Cheers Gary

Power FC Cheers Gary

We remove them completely Cheers Gary

99% of the time speed specific vibration is caused by poor wheel balance due to only balancing the outside of the wheel, instead of both inside and outside. Check where the weights are, if they are only on the inside or outside then get a decent wheel balance. Have them check the wheels and tyres for out of round at the same time. Cheers Gary

I have done the sums many times for many people, no matter how I work it it ALWAYS works out cheaper to sell the RB25 cylinder head and excessories and buy an RB26 cylinder head. By the time you do the inlet manifiold, cams (RB26 cams are always cheaper), pulleys, bypass the VVT, lifters, valve springs, valves and then injectors (top feed are always cheaper), the fuel rail (the standard RB26 rail is good for over 650 bhp) etc etc. Then you have the fact that the end result (of a hybrid RB25 cylinder head) is never as good a full RB26 top end. Cheers Gary

Simple; 044 in tank ----"Y" piece---- 2 x 044's supplying engine With the 2 x 044's mounted externally (under floor), no surge tank required. Cheers Gary

Try Mike at MV Automatics is SA, he knows Nissan boxes better than anyone. As far as I know all Nissan RWD autos are pretty much the same, minor variences only. R33GTST, R34GTT, Navara, Patrol etc The ATTESSA doesn't make any difference to the internals of the auto, just the output shaft is different to accommodate the chain drive to the clutch pack. Cheers Gary

The springs rates (both front and rear) are higher than I would recommend, so I doubt it's a rear spring rate issue. What height do you have it set at (centre of wheel to guard)? Rear bump stop contact could be the issue if you have it too low. Cheers Gary

Thanks to the owner I had the M35 Stagea back on the hoist today and all is well in the swaybar fitting, no problems after 1000k's plus. So they are now released for sale. The Selbys Swaybar recomended retail prices will be $300 for the front adjustable and $275 for the rear adjustable. The Group Buy prices will have the usual 20% discount applied, so they will be $240 for the front adjustable and $220 for the rear adjustable. If you buy both front and rear bars at the same time, that price ($460) includes delivery. Non adjustables are also available at RRP's of $275 for the front and $240 for the rear. The Group Buy prices will also have the usual 20% discount applied, so they will be $220 for the front and $192 for the rear. If you buy both front and rear bars at the same time, that price ($412) also includes delivery. As usual, delivery is 2 working days from order. Payment is required at the time of placing the order and I can do credit card, just PM me the details, or bank transfer to; Account Name Jamex Australia Bank StGeorge Bank BSB 332-086 Account No 551029694 PM me the transfer receipt number and we are underway. Please don't forget to send me full name and address for the order plus a contact phone number for the courier in case they need directions or instructions if no one is home. Any questions, just ask. Cheers Gary

I didn't take any photos of the standard rear bar, the following shows the Selbys Swaybar already in place. The D brackets and bushes are similar to the front except acces is easy as you can see; The only trick is you have to undo the 2 brackets from the body that hold the rubbers for the muffler. This enables the exhaust to drop down far enough ro slip the swaybar in between the exhaust pipe and the diff. You can see the LHS exhaust bracket with the retaining nut already done up. Note that the rear bar also has laterial locks to stop the bar moving sideways. The best method for doing up the rear links, which is the same process as for the fronts