Sydneykid

Upgrading the swaybars DIY is pretty easy, some pictures to help, front bar first; The standard front plastic undertray gets in the way so you need to drop it down to gain access to the D brackets and bushes necessary to remove the bar You don't have to remove it completely, just remove the rear bolts and drop it down Access to the D brackets One nut at the front of each bracket and one bolt at the rear. Notice the laterial locks on the standard bar next to the D Bushes to ensure that it doesn't slide sideways. Once you have removed the D brackets and dropped the bar down, just undo the links and remove the standard bar. Socket on the nut and a slim open ended spanner to hold the ball joint while you undo the nut. Lift the Selbys Swaybar up inot position and replace the D Bushes and the D Brackets. Note that the replacement bar is the same diameter as the hollow standard bar except it is solid and it has laterial locks same as the standard bar. Do up the links. As you can see the adjustable bar is set on the softest setting (rearward holes) for the initial testing. The link is angled backwards but it is a ball joint and handles the acute angle without a problem. See the next post for the rear bar upgrade. Cheers Gary

Mmmmmm, 520 awkw, that's 800 bhp or so. Hence 700 cc injectors would do that, although I don't think 60 psi is either necessary or desirable. Bosch fuel pumps are only rated at 72.5 psi, so 60 psi base fuel pressure doesn't leave much room for boost (ie; 12.5 psi). Personally I would sell the 700's and buy some 1000's, the cost difference woul be minimal and I would feel much safer at standard base pressure (36-38 psi). Cheers Gary

What would you prefer, slavishly tuning to a predetermined A/F ratio? And getting a rough power curve as a result? Or tuning for a smooth and progressive power curve and letting the A/F ratios fall wherever is best for power? I know what I would choose. Cheers Gary

Ok, I will bite..............why don't you just get the pin hole welded up in situ? Take no time at all on the hoist with a Mig. The real question, how come it has a pin hole in the oil gallery anyway? Being oil filled, it's not gunna rust through like a water jacket. My guess would be a crack emanating from the oil feed for the turbo or the oil return. That happens when people over tighten the fittings. Sorry but after building over 40 RB30's, I just don't buy the random pin hole reasoning. Cheers Gary

Pulling the drive shafts is the ONLY answer for a 4wd Stagea on a 2wd dyno. same as for R33 and R34GTR's and GTS4's. Aee you sure it is the gearbox and not the ATESSA that is screwed? Cheers Gary

Off the shelf GCG High flow, but remember it's an RB20DET high flow It will develop ~1 bar against the torque converter Tuning is important, lots of ignition advance, but remember I use V Power 100 RON. The exhaust cam timing also helps. Split dump is also important, mine has the Performance Metalcraft work of art that was on the race car Don't forget the intercooler and pipework, mine has a standard R34GTT SMIC and standard pipework. I also run 44 psi fuel pressure though the standard injectors, which might give some atomisation advantage For what I use it for I am not interested in how much power it makes over 6,000 rpm, I need it to make lots of torque around 3,000 rpm. I haven't had it on the dyno, but I doubt that it has much over 200 4wkw, which it probably makes at no more than 5,000 rpm. Cheers Gary

My suggestion (as always) would be to use spring rates at the lower end of the scale and have adjustable swaybars so that you can tune the handling balance when you go to the track. Exactly what spring rates to choose depends on the type of tyre you are to run. A typical road tyre, say a 255/40/17, won't like spring rates much over 275 lbs/inch (5kg/mm) in the front and 225 lbs/inch (4kg/mm) in the rear. An "R" type tyre will tolerate slighhly higher spring rates, up ot a max around 400 lbs/inch (7kg/mm) in the front and 275 lbs/inch (5kg/mm) in the rear. For a full slick I wouldn't be looking over 700 lbs/inch (12.5kg/mm) in the front which is what we run in the V8SuperCars. Keep in mind that if you are using a lower profile, say 18" or 19" tyre then you will need to reduce the spring rates accordingly. Cheers Gary

From memory the Group A regulations were standard diameter, so 17" as per R32GTR N1 specs. The width was determined by engine capacity, so 2.6 x 1.7 = 4.42 litres, ie; under 4.5 litres, which I think was 8". The Sierras, being 2 litres x 1.7 = 3.4 litre were alos 8", like the R30/31's. The M3's, being under 2.5 litres, were 7" and the Corollas, under 1600 were 6". Testing the memory, but 6", 7" and 8" sounds about right. Cheers Gary

The front is very different and won't fit. The rear will fit, but isn't the right rate. Cheers Gary

I found the 20 mm rear bar to be too small, hence why the Group Buy has the 22mm. The extra adjustment hole (softer) is to bring the 22mm bar down similar to the highest setting on the 20 mm bar. The symptom of too small a rear bar is mid corner understeer that persist even with the bar on the highest setting. The only reason I would use a 20 mm rear bar is if the car has lots of power (280 rwkw plus) and hence tends to power oversteer on corner exit. Even then I would probably upgrade to the 26 or 27 mm front bar rather than downgrade to the 20 mm rear. What springs and shocks do you have in it, as they are relevant as to how much anti roll you can use? Cheers Gary

I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting. If it oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the middle setting If it still oversteers too much, then I back the rear bar off to the softest setting If it still oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the highest setting If it still oversteers too much, then you might need some more rear camber and/or the HICAS is still working (get rid of it) and/or the rear subframe alignment kit needs to be set to maximum traction (squat) OR I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting. If it understeers too much, then I move the rear bar to the highest setting If it still understeers too much then you don't have enough caster/camber on the front Cheers Gary

You could be right, I am still using the 4000 series rear rotors that are at least 3 years old, compared to the third set of front rotors but they are 5000 series. Maybe the newer 4000's are the problem. Cheers Gary

I have found that 9 times out 10 when you pull the calliper pistons you damage the seals on the crap build up on the outer part of the bore that is not used. Once you clean everything, put new seals and whack some calliper grease on them, the pistons slide straight in. Cheers Gary

Since mine develops full boost (1 bar) at 2,250 rpm I can't really comment on response in that meaning. But if you mean more power between 2500 rpm and 4500 rpm? Then, yes, the 4 degrees retard on the exhaust camshaft timing made a noticeable difference for towing, which is what I was after. Cheers Gary

Some comments; Many Canadians go to the US to buy cars, so the prices are not that much different The Pontiac GTO sold for LESS in the US than the equivalent Monaro did here, much less in fact. The BMW M3 Coupe starts from $56K in the US http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Veh...pe/default.aspx The BMW M3 Coupe is $157K here. Noting that there are some differences in specifications that account for some of the price difference. The R35GTR will be considered a "supercar" here, as a result I expect the pricing to be around $140K to $150K for the reasons above. But (there is always a but), the typical Nissan dealer is pretty low rent in style, that's premises and staff. So they will have the same problem as with the R32GTR, people wanting to spend that sort of money aren't going to like standing in a queue behind someone spending a 10th as much buying/servicing a Tiida. I assume that Nissan will try the 1 selected dealer in each state trick, but even the best Nissan dealer isn't up to selling to and servicing that sort of customer. Whether or not that affects the price remains to be seen. Cheers Gary

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it attracts water. Over time you can get a build up of sludge (water + brake fluid = sludge) in the calliper itself that doesn't bleed out. This lowers the boiling point of the fluid, plus it takes away some pedal feel. It also accelerates corrosion of the pistons and bores. Cheers Gary

The rear spring configuration is different as well as the shock forks. Cheers Gary

Personally I wouldn't have another ute as a tow car, it has zero security for your valuables when you park it. Guys in the race team have lost wheels, tyres, jacks, tool kits and plenty of spares out of utes. Park it for 20 minutes while you go and have dinner or a drink after a race meeting and bingo it's an open supermarket in the back of your tow car. It got to the stage where I packed up after a race meeting and never stopped until I got back to the workshop. In the rain (it always rains at race meetings) we used to get a swimming pool in the back whenever we had more stuff than the tonneau would cover. Then there is the passenger problem, take 2 guys with you and you have to take 2 cars everywhere. So we gave up on utes about 10 years ago, everyone in the race team now has either a waggon or a 4wd. As for IRS being a problem, that's ancient history and pretty much a mythe these days. I have been towing the race cars around with the Stagea for 3 years, not had a problem. My trailers have always had load equalising stabiliser bars on them, so there is no up and down motion on the draw bar. Ad some decent shocks, which the Stagea needs for everyday driving anyway, that's about all else plus the electronic brake controller of course. Waggons are the go. An example, for the 24 hour, tow the race car to Bathurst empty out the waggon, into the pits. Stick 5 guys in it and go everywhere for the weekend, no need for 2 cars. Automatic, never manual, and 4wd are an advantage, remember it rains at every race meeting and getting out of the pits in a 2wd manual ute is next to impossible. I have had 9 tow cars over the years and the Stagea is the best at towing and daily driving of all of them. It just needs a bigger fuel tank, 65 litres gets you nowhere when you have 4 tonnes to move. Cheers Gary

Hi Mark, take a look at what cars cost in the USA and what they cost here, any cars, Honda Civics to M3's. They have a market that is 15 times our size (20 million compared to 300 million people), so their costs are amortised over 15 times as many cars. Let's try something simple, say the satellite navigation. Assume it costs $15,000 to engineer the system to work in the US and the same $15,000 to work in Australia. If we get say 100 cars that's $1500 each and the USA gets 1500 cars that's $100 each. Result = we pay $1,400 more for the car plus duty, GST and margins. The same logic applies to the ICE, PAL versus CTC, different radio frequencies, ADR's etc etc. It doesn't stop at hard parts either, the cost of shipping from Japan to the west coast USA is less than 1/4 ours, plus the higher volume makes it even cheaper. Ditto insurance, local freight etc etc. The USA sales tax is state controlled, some as low as 2.5% and there is no stamp duty that I know of. Nissan most likley offsets any import duty into the US with exports to Mexico, Canada and South America. When you get to Nissan USA margins they will have 15 times the volume so a lower percentage will be more acceptable, ditto the car dealers. Their floor plan finance costs are half ours and their stock holding would be way less than our typical 3 months. But hey what would I know, I only worked for a major car importer for 4 years. Cheers Gary

I assume this is an R33 or R34 of some kind? If that's the case , try the respective Group Buy for your model, it's a front camber kit This si the R33GTST link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 Cheers Gary