Sydneykid

Hang on, I'm stuffing with an R32GTST lighter than the Zed, similar power out of the RB31DET, same size wheels & tyres, better shocks, Eibach springs, same brand swaybars (obviously) with similar adjustment, similar sized brakes, 6 point cage, Pi dash, RB25DET gearbox, twin plate clutch etc. The Zed has a lower CoG and better aero, other than that the R32GTST should be fairly evenly matched. We just have to get all the bits working together, especially the rusty nut holding the steering wheel, that's always a problem. Cheers Gary

Now you have me doubting my memory. Cheers Gary

Looks like there will be a few cars running with our swaybars. Cheers Gary

Parasitic drag? In order for my Stagea to proceeed down the road the front wheels have to turn, whether that's by 4wd or via the rear wheels and the road. So all you are talking about is the small effort required to turn the drive shafts and the front diff, neither of which are excessively large (weight and drag). Especially in comparison to wheels, tyres, brake rotors etc. Lowering a Stagea too much soaks up more power than that. Cheers Gary

MAP sensor and multiple throttle bodies are not a good mix for a road car. Cheers Gaery

The non blue bits, on the end of these arms are the spherical bearings. Cheers Gary

They are illegal. Cheers Gary

Why are you using ~600 degree brake fluid with ~300 degree pads? Cheers Gary

Like us, Duncan uses eccentric crush tubes/bushes in his race cars (and road cars) and hasn't ever had a problem. They require rotation to adjust, so how anyone could say they slip is beyond me. Cheers Gary

So you haven't even fixed the camber? Added more (much needed) caster? Removed the HICAS? etc etc Changing the rebound damping is going to do pretty much diddly squat for the handling balance. You'll just feel a bit better 'cause you did something. Cheers Gary

These are the ratings we use for selecting track use pads; Operating Temperature Range Initial Torque Fade Resistence Release Consistency Modulation Pad Wear Rotor Wear Looking at only the CoF (maximum at one termperature) is far too simplistic a guide. As a beginner, from the above list, I would first be looking at Initial Torque, Release and Consistency. An example, a pad with a simple CoF may (if the temperature is right) give you good initial bite. But as a beginner you may have a tendancy to lock the brakes, hence a pad with poor Release characteristics would be bad for you. Consistency is equally a no brainer, it's no good having good brake response on one lap/corner and then lousy on the next. You need to learn to trust the feel you get back from the brakes, so it needs to be the same lap after lap. You won't learn anything from driving with inconsistent braking performance. As you become more proficient, Modulation becomes more important, as it enables you to feel for the point just before lock up. A pad with a simple (high) CoF may have poor Modulation and you can't effectively adjust the braking pressure due to their lack of feel. Juggling pads with differing Initial Torque front to rear can be an advantage when you don't have brake bias adjustment or ABS. For example, using slightly lower Initial Torque pads in the rear can avoid that end of the car locking up with the first corner hard stab on the brakes needed on many tracks. Obviously if the budget is tight, then looking at Rotor Wear and Pad Wear are relevant. But based on my experience you are not going to find a pad compound that is suitable for track day use that is gentle on the rotors and/or doesn't wear out fast itself. You haven't mentioned the ratio of road to track use that you anticipate, so giving a single pad recommendation is difficult. If you do a lot of both, then I would recommend changing pads for the track at the same time as you have the wheels off to change to the track day tyres. If you don't have track day ("R" compound) tyres then pretty much any decent pad you select will outbrake road tyres. If that's the case then Hawke HPS (70% road and 30% track) or HP+ (30% road and 70% track) would be the go. HP+ are a very aggressive pad with good feel, they are a bit dusty and will wear the rotors reasonably, you get nothing for nothing. If you are changing pads for track days, then Hawke HT10's would be top of my list. As you get more proficient, then DTC70 in the front and maybe DTC60 in the rear, they have huge initial bite and so require some skill in their modulation. Not so simple is it? Cheers Gary

Hub (upright) and upper control arm. Looks like R33GTST. No lower control arm or radius rod. Not $much as they don't wear out that often, the best buyer would be someone repairing accident damage. Cheers Gary

No fans that I ever saw. AP 6 spot callipers front and 4 spot rear. Different style and thickness AP rotors were used. I am sure I saw crossed drilled rotors at sprint events, from memory the endurance rotors were always slotted. As well as thicker rotors for the endurance events, they also ran thicker pads for longer wear. For suspension and engine bay pictures follow my link on page 1 of this thread. Cheers Gary

Now that the wheels point straight all the time and it has some consitency in the camber curves it should be a fair bit faster and noticeably easier to drive. Particularly on the technical tracks. Hence why I reckon there's a good 5 seconds or so available at OP GP for a 1.13 maybe a 1.12, the 1.18 doesn't align well with the other times. If John can coax that out of it on the day, I reckon it will be hard to beat. It's certainly the sort of times, given a dry track, that I expect will be needed to be in there with a chance. Cheers Gary

How long spherical bearings last depends on many things; How rough are the roads that you normal drive on? How dirty are the roads that you normally drive on? What size sphericals has the maker has used? Some are very small and last weeks, some are more sensible size and last months. Do the sphericals have dust covers? If not, the crap gets in and shortens their life even further. If they don't have dust covers, do the sphericals have grease nipples? At least you can grease them and prolong their life a bit. How low is the ride height? If there isn't enough suspension travel then the impact loads are passed into the sphericals as there is no spring or shock travel left to take the hits. How often do you degrease the car? It washes off the lubricant, if there is any. To fix the rear camber with bushes, you need a rear camber kit, they are $125 each. If the car is low (refer to the previous post) then you may need 2 kits to remove the excessive negative camber. Fitting is usually around $150 or so, plus a wheel alignment of course. Check with your local suspension workshop (there is a list of recommended shops in the Group Buy thread). In a couple of weeks I will have a Group Buy up for exchange control arms with Noltec camber kits already fitted, if you can wait that long. Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

Spherical bearings are not a good idea in a raod car; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wr...tml&hl=arms Cheers Gary

Some reading for you; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wr...tml&hl=arms http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 For camber kits, this what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard; Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits The standard rear subframe bushes are very soft, silicone filled. They are soft when new and do wear over time until they finally leak. The rear subframe alignment kit supplements the standard bushes, stops the subframe from flopping around and at the same time give some adjustment of the rear squat. This allows for improvement in the rear traction. This is a must have for a drag car. Some stuff I posted yesterday that you may also find helpful; You want no more then 3 kg/mm rear springs, around 2.5 kg/, is better. You want rear shocks with very little low frequency bump valving but a large amount of low frequency rebound damping. If the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The soft spring rate allows the rear to squat and absorb the torque hit, the large amount of low frequency rebound damping holds the rear down for maximum weight transfer onto the rear tyres. The problem is you get a lot of dynamic negative camber when you get enough squat, so you need to set the static rear camber slightly positive (around 0.5 deggres). A rear subframe alignment kit installed in the "Maximum Traction" positions is also a must. Around 3.5 to 4.0 kg/mm front springs are OK (hardly "hard"). You want front shocks with a large amount of low frequency bump valving but with very little low frequency rebound damping. Similarly to the rear, if the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The limited amount of low frequency rebound damping allows the front suspension to extend therebye reducing the weight over the front and hence more effective weight transfer to the rear. The reasonable front spring rate helps to hold the front tyres onto the track, you may need to steer at some point. The front suspension geometry is pretty much irrelevant, just make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead (zero toe) so they don't provide too much drag. In a general sense the average Japanese aftermarket coil over kits are not suitable for drag racing and the standard suspension is better. But (there is always a "but") the problem with the rear standard shocks is that they don't have anywhere near enough rebound damping. That's when they are new, let alone 15 or so years old. So you get bad axle tramp, the kind that breaks drive shafts. The more power the car has, the worse this problem becomes. In a standard'ish Skyline (boost up, FMIC, exhaust etc) you might just get away with it (standard shocks) on street tyres. But drag radials or slicks and decent power don't mix well with poor rebound control. You will spend more money/time replacing drive shafts than you will spending the extra on buying the right shock spring combo. Cheers Gary

Swaybars? Adjustable? Sizes? Settings? Cheers Gary

Do you have the intermediate spring seats? If not, then you would have to get them made as well. Eibach do make 70 mm tender springs (part numbered from 0025.070.0015 to 0070.070.0060) so a 74 mm to 70 mm intermediate (adaptor) spring seats would do the job. Cheers Gary

Cheers Gary

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521 Cheers Gary

Not quite. You want no more then 3 kg/mm rear springs, around 2.5 kg/, is better. You want rear shocks with very little low frequency bump valving but a large amount of low frequency rebound damping. If the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The soft spring rate allows the rear to squat and absorb the torque hit, the large amount of low frequency rebound damping holds the rear down for maximum weight transfer onto the rear tyres. The problem is you get a lot of dynamic negative camber when you get enough squat, so you need to set the static rear camber slightly positive (around 0.5 deggres). A rear subframe alignment kit installed in the "Maximum Traction" positions is also a must. Around 3.5 to 4.0 kg/mm front springs are OK (hardly "hard"). You want front shocks with a large amount of low frequency bump valving but with very little low frequency rebound damping. Similarly to the rear, if the shocks are a decent brand then you can leave the high frequency valving alone. The limited amount of low frequency rebound damping allows the front suspension to extend therebye reducing the weight over the front and hence more effective weight transfer to the rear. The reasonable front spring rate helps to hold the front tyres onto the track, you may need to steer at some point. The front suspension geometry is pretty much irrelevant, just make sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead (zero toe) so they don't provide too much drag. In a general sense the average Japanese aftermarket coil over kits are not suitable for drag racing and the standard suspension is better. But (there is always a "but") the problem with the rear standard shocks is that they don't have anywhere near enough rebound damping. That's when they are new, let alone 15 or so years old. So you get bad axle tramp, the kind that breaks drive shafts. The more power the car has, the worse this problem becomes. In a standard'ish Skyline (boost up, FMIC, exhaust etc) you might just get away with it (standard shocks) on street tyres. But drag radials or slicks and decent power don't mix well with poor rebound control. You will spend more money/time replacing drive shafts than you will spending the extra on buying the right shock spring combo. Cheers Gary

No. Normal R34GTR turbos are ball bearing with ceramic tubines. The N1's have ball bearings and steel turbines, look very much like GT2530's and are capable of around the same power. Cheers Gary

No problem Half right. Boost is simply a measurement expression of pressure, pressure is created when you have airflow and a restriction to that airflow. So you can increase the pressure (boost) by either increasing the airflow OR increasing the restriction. Conversely, you can decrease the pressure (boost) by either decreasing the airflow OR decreasing the restriction. Keep that in mind. So if I have a car with lots of restrictions, small pipework, restrictive intercooler, low lift & duration cams, small valves, tiny ports, poor exhaust manifold, small diameter exhaust pipes, compliance cat, quiet muffler etc etc and so it needs lots of pressure (boost) to push the airflow through those restrictions. It makes say 220 rwkw at 19 psi on an average tune using 98 ron fuel. I remove some of those restrictions, better pipepwork, decent FMIC, high flow cat & exhaust etc and stick 100 ron fuel in it and tune it properly. I could easily get 230 rwkw at 16 psi. Less boost and more power. Why? Because I have removed some restrictions therebye allowing more airflow. It is that increased airflow that makes power, boost is irrelevant. Maybe, it depends on how many restrictions you remove. The RB25DET in the R33GTST produces more power (270 rwkw) now at 17 psi than it used to (250 rwkw) at 20 psi. Same turbo but with cams, valve springs, slightly bigger intercooler pipwork, forged pistons & rods (lighter), better ring sealing, GReddy copy inlet manifold (not a big contributor) and obviously a fresh engine. Not the least of which is a slightly more agressive tune because I know the engine internals can handle it. I understand that you have prepared the table based on the the generalisations of FMIC, 3" exhaust etc. But not all FMIC's are the same, not all 3" exhausts are the same and most importantly an untuned Power FC on 98 ron is not the same as well tuned Power FC on 100 ron. I won't get into dyno differences, but they are a consideration none the less. Perhaps I am tainted by guys complaining to me that so and so's car with everything the same makes 10 rwkw more. Vary rarely is "everything" the same and that's the problem. Cheers Gary