Sydneykid

You haven't got the plug upside down in comparsion to the pin out diagram by any chance? Or are you looking at the front of the plug when the pin out diagram is for the back of the plug? I do it all the time, so you aren't alone. Cheers Gary

No GTR IPRA cars in Vic. Cheers Gary

If you have spent enough money on your engine to truly need 2 x 044's then you should spend the little bit extra and buy a fuel pressure guage. If you have a Power FC, then any leaning out will cause knock and the knock warning light will flash. If you ignore the low fuel pressure and/or the knock warning then nothing will save you. If you don't have the one way valves, some of the fuel will still go to the engine, just less than what would flow if one pump failed and you had non return valves. Cheers Gary

There is a long thread on how to size wastegate correctly, here is the abreviated version..... To apply the formula to this example I need some more information, what power it is at right now and the final power target? Quite often I get guys who want to use a lower boost limit for running in than their final power target. This dual requirement can cause issues with the wastegate sizing, they need a larger than desirable one to bleed off enough exhaust for the running in boost level. Cheers Gary

Be careful, dynos can display newtons which is NOT the same as newton metres. Be careful, dynos display torque at the wheels, so you have multiplier effects of the gearbox and diff ratios plus tyre diameter. Be careful, dynos have rollers and calibration differences like ramp rates, not to mention ambient and inlet air temperatures, barometric pressure etc etc Cheers Gary

I thought we were talkng about the post intercooler pipework? Now we are talking about the pre-intercooler pipework, which has some rather interesting differences. Insulating that is pretty much guaranteed to do nothing at all because the turbo on boost produces quite hot air flow inside the pipework, after all that's why you need an intercooler. So the temperature difference, inside the pipework compared to outside, is not anywhere near as great. Since the temperature difference isn't as great, there is very little transfer of heat, even at slow airspeeds. But wait there's more (of course) the intercooler removes some of that difference. An average intercooler is around 70% efficient (at removing termperature), so even if the uninsulated pipework adds a few degrees the intercooler will remove 70% of the difference to ambient anyway. Back to the post intercooler pipework, I only ever use the 120 degree at the throttle body style of pipework on RB20/25's, so I don't have the extra length behind the radiator. That's a win/win as the lesser amount of air in the pipework improves the response, probably more than taking (at best) a couple of degrees out of the air temperature. That's a true not cost benefit, get the right pipework the first time. Similarly a heat shield around a pod that lowers the inlet temperature by upwards of 40 degrees is a must. That you can truly feel, compared to a couple of degrees which is more likely to be placebo effect. Cheers Gary

An drag auto GTR with 4wd, about time someone built one. Cheers Gary

My opinion on Cockrun's agenda; He wants only V8SuperCars racing in Australia, no other categories of circuit race cars A monopoly for the sponsors, so he gets all the advertising money A monopoly for the fans, so he gets all the merchandise money A monopoly for the TV stations, if they want to televise motorsport they have to pay him He doesn't want any permanent race circuits left for other categories to race on By having street circuits he is effectively killing off the main supply of revenue to the permanent race circuits Eventually the permanent circuits will all close due to lack of revenue The low crowds at Eastern Creek just give him more ammunition to demand a street race in Sydney That's why they hardly promoted the round here and jacked up the prices, to keep the crowd as low as possible He wants Governments to pay him, they have more money than promotors and don't need to make a profit He doesn't want us out on our local race track, driving our own race cars He wants us at home sipping our Jim Beam in front of the Fujitsu flat screen watching the V8's. After changing the Castrol oil in our Falcadoor that we bought at SuperCheap. I hate the asswipe and his agenda. Cheers Gary

Where did you get that info from? Cheers Gary

1,000k's of flat out driving where every single horsepower counts is a little different to driving to work in the traffic Cheers Gary

The ones I refer to most in my library; Tune to Win - Carrol Smith Drive to Win - Carrol Smith Saloon Car Race Preparation - Nigel MacKnight Performance Handling - Don Alexander Competition Car Suspension - Allan Staniforth Race Car Engineering & Mechanics - Paul Van Valkenburgh I have found that there is no one book that covers it, the ones that may on the surface appear to be out of date still have lots of relevance and even the heavily scientific ones have some basic stuff that anyone can grasp even if you ultimately ignore the formulas. Cheers Gary

That's not heavy Luke, it's actually quite simple really. The coil overs you are getting almost guarateed will only have one adjustment, that being rebound. There will be zero (or virtually zero) bump adjustment. So the best that you can do is fact 100% opposite to what you posted above. 1. You want the rear shocks with MORE rebound damping than the fronts. That's what I meant when I said "The soft spring rate allows the rear to squat and absorb the torque hit, the large amount of low frequency rebound damping holds the rear down for maximum weight transfer onto the rear tyres" 2. You want the front shocks with LESS rebound damping than the rearss. That's what I meant when I said "The limited amount of low frequency rebound damping allows the front suspension to extend therebye reducing the weight over the front and hence more effective weight transfer to the rear" Cheers Gary

NVH reduction Cheers Gary

Intercoolers are heat transfer devices, pipework isn't. Intercoolers have far more surface area, inside and out, so the air is in contact for much longer. Hence it has time to transfer heat. Cheers Gary

Let's do some numbers on say an R33GTST running 1 bar of boost at 2,000 rpm 2.5 litres x 2 bar (1 bar atmo + 1 bar boost) x 2,000 rpm /2 (it's a 4 stroke) = 5,000 litres per minute or 83 litres per second The average intercooler pipework (after the intercooler) holds around 6 litres. So the air spends around 0.07 of second going though the pipework. Now touch the pipework with your finger for 0.07 of a second and see how much heat transfer there is. Nothing, zero, zip, diddly squat ....... because the contact time isn't enough to transfer any heat. But wait there's more.....not all of the air is touching the inside of the pipework, some goes down the middle (boundary layer not withstanding).....so its even less than nothing, zero, zip and diddly squat. That's at 2,000 rpm, at 5,000 rpm it's all of 0.03 of second. So make your own judgement as to whether or not your time (and money) would be better spent elsewhere. Cheers Gary

Track is relative to the centre of the tyre, not the outside. The only reason for needing an 8 mm spacer is to clear the 8 mm that the offest is more inwards, hence the centre of the wheel would be in the same place as it was with the old wheels and no spacer. With an 8 mm spacer you will need longer wheel studs. Cheers Gary

The Hawk HP+ link; http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hpplus.php Talking to the Hawk engineers at SEMA they were quoting 50 to 500'ish operating temeprature, that's at their high CoF. Cheers Gary

Trouble is these days Boz, my 10/10ths will be more like your 8/10ths. Here here, but not too quick I have plenty of work to do on both cars, plus a couple of customer cars. A porch in the wet, always fun How about a Top 10 tipping competition? Not in any order, my guesses; Hi Octane Racing R34 GTR - Driver :: Mark Berry Unique Autosports 300ZX - Driver :: John Penlington Bel Garage Evo 9 RS - NSW - Driver :: If it's PP ALS Performance BMW 325TI Turbo - Driver :: Andrew Schmidt Brandster Services R32 GTR - Driver :: If it's Lofty or Boz Ric Shaw FD3S RX-7 - Driver :: Ric Shaw Southern Motor Works Lotus Exige Turbo - Driver :: John Boston MazSport Series 4 RX-7 - Driver :: Bill Nabhan Jade Automotive R32 GTR - Driver :: Jason Stephen Kakavas GC8 WRX - Driver :: Stephen Kakavas Cheers Gary

No. The only thing that is any use to you are the rear shocks and the front strut tops, everything else is wrong. Cheers Gary

R32 GTR rear bar is too narrow. Plus they are hollow and so hardly an upgrade on what you already have. Cheers Gary

Not me, I'm swapping gearbox ratios in one of the race team cars, 4th time in 3 weeks, I'm getting good at it. Cheers Gary

That's a good price for both ends, go for it. Is it local supply or imported direct? Cheers Gary

I re-read what I posted several times and I don't see where I contradict what you posted. But I appologise if it came accross that way, it was not my intention. I was simply escalating the engineering input, and trying to put some technical space between a 4wd set up and a 2wd set up. Which I have found many inexperienced guys have trouble understanding. It is always hard to judge the knoweldge base of someone from a single post, so I tend to err on the side of providing a reasonable level of technical response. If it's too heavy reading, they can always come back and ask for clarification. If I go in too soft, the knowledge transfer maybe be misleading, they go off on a tangent and I don't get a second chance. If it's a beer I owe you, then so be it, my shout when we catch up next. Cheers Gary

All due respect to Twoogle, setting up a 4wd drag car and a 2wd drag car are quite different. In a 2wd Skyline we care very much about maximising the rear traction. If we sacrifice more front traction achieving that it doesn't matter. In a drag GTR we have all 4 wheels to provide the traction, so we can't afford to sacrifice too much front traction in order to achieve some more rear traction. Hence what works in 4wd environment (highish spring rates and minimum rear squat) simply doesn't work in a 2wd situation. In regard to setting up a 2wd drag Skyline, I posted this recently (that's why the Search button is so handly); Cheers Gary

I tend to agree with Roy on the DS2500's, they haven't impressed me the few times we have used them. We even tried the newer Ferodo DS2.11 recently and they weren't impressive either, they wore quickly and the initial bite wasn't there. Endless and cracking brake rotors seem to go hand in hand. That and their rediculously high prices. Cheers Gary