Sydneykid

The problem with a single turbo on a V engine is the cross over exhaust pipe, particularly in a tight engine bay, hence why I will be going twin turbo. We used lots of Autronics on the BMW SuperTourers and the Perkins customer V8SuperCars came with them, before they went control ECU. So I have no problem with using an Autronic ECU. Many of the race team cars have Motec, so I am OK with them as well. I like the fly by wire throttle and the ease of cruise control, so that means keeping the standard ECU for at least that much of the operation. The dash/LCD readouts are a keeper as well, so a piggy back ECU will be the go or flash tuning the standard ECU. Not sure which one yet. Cheers Gary

Not allowed to run meth in our events, pump petrol only. Cheers Gary

1. Swedish Ohlins 2. Daylght 3. Yamahas (like those), the spring rates are too high on the ones I have seen, there are options so it would pay to check them first. 4. Daylight 5. Tein Monoflex 6. HKS Hypermax Cheers Gary

All you have to do is stick an address label (Superior Suspension, 4 Lincoln St Minto NSW 2566) on the box and let me know when its ready Cheers Gary

If you car is "super fast" then it should be in the Open Class. If you are concerned with safety then you are quite free to run an "R" tyre in the Open Class. No one is forcing you to run road tyres, it's 100% your choice. Cheers Gary

A 180SX is not an R32/33/34, they don't have the weight of an RB. Unless you have done the RB conversion, in which case the rule applies (they understeer if you put smaller tyres on the front). Cheers Gary

Add the TRD Supras and of course R35GTR to the Bilstein equiped list list. Bad, no, they're not bad. They are a bit better than the average Japanese kit, in that they will allow lower spring rates. Many of the others show little or no improvement in ride comfort and/or handling as the valving simply won't tolerate the more sensible rates. The main problem is you can't fix them, I have had at least 10 sets through my hands and I have had to tell the guys the bad news every time. Cheers Gary

Take the instructions to your car, it's obvious when you look. Cheers Gary

Yamaha owns Ohlins, they bought them some years back to get their GP bike shock technology, Ohlins first came to fame via their brilliant race bike shocks. Yamaha has a shock factory in Japan that builds their road bike shocks and a small range of car shocks and they use the Ohlins name on the road car shocks. All of Yamaha's race bike shocks are still made by Ohlins in Sweden, plus a few of their top end road bikes also have Ohlins. The Ohlins factory in Sweden only makes high end race shocks for cars and bikes, they don't make volume parts numbers. There is obviously some technology transfer between the 2 factories, but having pulled them appart and run them on the shock dyno I can tell you the internals and function are not at all similar. The leads to some problems; The first problem is the price, you can't make and sell an "Ohlins" quality shock for less than $2K each, the materials, it's piston and valving sophistication and machining quality and tolerances simply wouldn't allow it. The second problem is the Japanese philosophy in regards to springs and shocks, the Yamaha engineers and factory follow that philosophy, there is no engineering input from Sweden in regards to what rates should be used on a particular car. The third problem, like 99.9% of the Japanese shock manufacturers, Yamaha doesn't provide spare parts support or service manuals, so you can't repair, service or revalve their shocks. When they wear out you chuck them and buy new ones. I have tried, without any success at all, to get the Australian and New Zealand Ohlins agents to provide spare parts a number of times for the Yamaha made models. In comparison we have obsolutely no problem obtaining genuine Ohlins parts and manuals for the race applications from them, the range of spares and options is almost at Bilstein level, which is very high. The bottom line, don't think you are getting $10K worth of Ohlins at bargain price. Cheers Gary

As anyone properly versed in the Australian aftermarket auto industry will tell you, the first owner very seldom is the one doing the mods. It's the second and third owners that get into the upgrade path. So APS are pretty naive thinking that they would sell meaningful numbers of Z33 turbo kits until the car had been around for 3 to 5 years. Right now is prime time for that sort of upgrade, and they aren’t interested. It’s all very well to be fast to market when a new car is released, it gives you some bragging rights and publicity. But you shouldn’t be stupid enough to believe that you are going to sell the stuff straight away. As for not caring about V35’s, well I reckon that’s equally stupid. Let’s face it they would only need a few hours to upgrade the Z33 kit to fit the V35. At the prices they charge, that’s money for jam even if they only sell a handful of kits. My numbers tell me that, after Commondoors, import Nissans are the most modified cars. So ignore them at your peril. Cheers Gary

This thread tells you how to measure up the springs and then I can rate them for you. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 Cheers Gary

There are valid arguments for puting the wider and lower profile tyres on the front, not the rear. Wider - R32/33/34's have heavy front weight bias, in the case of 4wd over 60% on the front wheels. As a result they understeer, so why would you want to make that worse by using narrower tyres on the front? Lower Profile - a lower profile tyre has less sidewall to absorb the torque hit, so a decent horsepower RWD should have a higher profile tyre on the rear, take a look at a top level Sports Sedan as an example of that logic. Lower profile is good for steering response, so they should be on the front. Hence my argument would be to use the 18's on the front and the 17's on the rear. Cheers gary

Yamahas Cheers Gary

Yep, it was DB's it was too good a kit to refuse. Plus I had some bits and the residual knowledge left over from the old Perkins customer Commodore V8SuperCars, they came with Pi System 2's. Then I spent another $1K with PiXpress to buy some more sensors and a longer wiring harness. There were a number of System 2 software releases, I use Pi Club Expert Windows. I think you can still get it from PiXpress, unlike the Cornering Analysis software, if you come across a copy of that I really want it. The derived maths channels are very useful. Cheers Gary

Well over 95% of the spring/shock units are off the shelf. The springs are off the shelf Eibachs, the coil over kits are off the shelf Bilstein and the shock bodies are also off the shelf Bilstein. It's only the valving changes that are not and even then they are are fairly minor. Most of which is forced by John's liking for big wings. As I have mentioned previously, you could buy a 100% off the shelf Bilstein/Eibach kit for your car that would be way better than what you have now. It's simply a matter of choosing the right components. Cheers Gary

Settle, this particular RB30 bottom end is from a Commondoor Only a few things to do like put the engine and gearbox in, make a chrome molly tailshaft, fabricate some titanium dump and wastegate pipes, new front stabiliser bar, steering rack bushes, new bushes in the control arms, Pi Dash and logger install etc etc. So I had better get to it........................ Cheers Gary

Not yet, it will replace the R33GTST which is committed to the SuperLap in July. I am still researching the options and models, plus I am holding out some hope that the post 2003 model emmissions problems will be resolved. The ECU is still a bit of an open question, I haven't picked one yet. As a replacement for the R33GTST it will be a daily driver, have around 300 rwkw with track day suitable suspension and brakes. The suspension kit is pretty much engineered, Selbys Swaybars, Bilstein PS9 shocks with revised spring rates and some alignment products that I have been working on. Cheers Gary

You AND John, it's a busy week this one. I can't remember where we left our discussion, it was 30 cars ago, so a PM is on it's way. As for brakes, realistically you are only going to do 2 or 3 hot laps at a time at this style of event, the tyres will just about last that long. So I wouldn't get too carried away with mega brakes like it was a 25 minute race. Cheers Gary

My guess is RD28T, 2.8 litre (2825cc) turbo-charged diesel 6-cyl, bore: 85mm, stroke: 83mm. I looked at it about 6 years ago, there is a lot of work required to fit the RB30 crank (86 mm stroke) and conrods. Plus the cylinder head studs don't line up with an RB25/26 head. The water jacket needs modifying and the oil feed will need some external help. Cheers Gary

If I had the money I would buy one for the R32GTST race car in an instant. Cheers Gary

The 1st picture I posted has the items layed out on the HKS story board The engine pictures show all of the components bolted onto the engine. www. nengun.com Brand = HKS in their Forced Induction section and the kit is for a Z33 The items that are specific to this engine combo, turbos, sump, exhaust manifolds, dump pipes, all of the pipework and fittings for oil and water. Maybe what it doesn't include, basically all the stuff that is generic. The main items being intercooler and exhaust, plus the intercooler and turbo inlet pipework. I like that choice because I can buy an exhaust that suites my tastes. I am stuck, paid my money, if I don't like the note from the AP kit or if it has a annoying drone at cruising speed. Ditto the intercooler, I can make my own choices. Power wise, any of the 3 turbo choices will easily exceed the capacity of the standard internals, which seems to be around 300 rwkw maximum. The GTRS's have over 700 bhp capability, so there is plenty of overhead if/when we go forged internals. Cheers Gary

All 4 guys each with considerable race car experience have warned you not to pay too much. I guess that's all we can do. Cheers Gary

Why would you want to loop it at the back? The front is so much easier. Cheers Gary

We only use Castrol lubricants in the race cars and all of my Skylines (and Stagea) run Edge 10W60, I have never ever had an oil related problem with any Castrol oil. Cheers Gary

Word of caution. You are going to have to buy and fit all of the bolt on R34GTR body parts, plus any interior parts that you want to fit. I strongly suggest that you add the cost of them up, plus the mechanical parts that you don't already have. When I did it, it added up to over $30K and I have a lot of high quality parts already. Then compare that with what you can buy an R34GTR for and then sell of the parts that you don't need, including what you already have. From what I have seen of the Group A cars, the locally built Gibson built ones were heaps better than anything out of Japan. I don't think it being built by Nismo adds 1% to it's worth as a bare chassis. Cheers Gary